It Doesn’t Translate

Let’s start with He Who Cannot Be Named, or, rather, the restaurant that apparently cannot be. Those of us who spend any time in Barrio Chino know the place, it’s at Arribeños 2122, it’s got lacquered ducks hanging in the window and all sorts of buns and parts and such on display, and is basically the poster child for -a hole-in-the-wall. Everyone calls it Comida Tradicional China, including all my fellow blogger folk, because it’s the only sign that isn’t in Chinese characters in or on the...