Same Same, But Different

  Our trip to Vietnam a few years back included a visit to Halong Bay. A staggeringly beautiful area of forested limestone rocks that populate the coastline. Naturally it is a huge tourist destination. On the ride from the northern capital, Hanoi, the tour guide thought it a good idea to get on the microphone and give everyone a few home truths about the Vietnamese and how they perceive themselves.   “The Northerners,” she said, “are the brains and the heart of Vietnam.” Pretty generous to the