Liz is a surf dude

OK so I've only done it four times, but I'm hooked!!

The first two lessons were at Mawgan Porth, where we were staying for a week. The surf there was a bit mad, especially on the second day. There were nine foot swells in the bay, and you could tell it was a rough day for beginners like us as the REAL surfers were out.

Luckily all we had to do was try to ride the white surf that the huge waves left behind, rather than get out beyond the monster waves. Even that was easier said than done! It took