Eat local organic food if you like, but don't kid yourself that it's 'green'

Don't get me wrong, I love farmers' markets. I love going to the fashionable one in Borough, London, and that wonderful rich feeling you get whenever you don't buy anything. And I love going to the one near me in south London and bantering and haggling with the fish man till he succumbs to giving me some amazing bargain like five decent-size Dover sole for a tenner.

I also really like the idea of putting money direct into the farmer's pocket rather than helping finance yet another bloody...