An Apprentice-Geisha Photoshoot Quite Unlike Any Other
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Alluring
and a bit mysterious
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Laughing
because I said something funny
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Serious
probably because I said something nonsensical, as I'm apt to do
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Contemplative
(not really; I'd actually instructed her to look at my shoes)
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( I just can't get enough of that red umbrella )
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Drawing a Crowd Wherever She Goes
in this case it was a walk through the Gion entertainment district of Kyoto
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Quite Tall
especially with those shoes
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(though still not quite as tall as me)
photo by Zak Braverman
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Posing Here...
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Posing There...
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Posing With Tourists
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Posing With Shy Japanese Schoolkids
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Posing for Zak
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Peace
And that last picture provides the first real clue that this girl is not
the maiko
(apprentice geisha) that she otherwise appears to be, because I don't think that a real
maiko would flash the peace sign for a passer's-by photo like
this.
February 3rd is the cultural holiday setsubun,
known for bean throwing, the
warding off of evil spirits, and some Shinto
rites that involve intense bonfires.
There's also an old tradition, fallen out of popularity in recent decades and now
mostly unknown to the younger generations, of transforming your appearance
for the day into something you're not... if you do this, so the tradition
goes, you'll be free of evil spirits for the next year.
And that brings us to today's photos. Ikuko, the 20-year-old girl in
these photos, is a normal collage student who transformed into a
maiko for the Setsubun holiday.
For most girls wanting to do something like this (for the Setsubun
holiday, or just for fun), Kyoto has plenty of places where one can pay
some small fee to play dress-up as a maiko and go for an
attention-grabbing photo-op stroll. I see it all the time, and these “fake
maiko” are easy to spot (such as seen here) by their
mannerisms and the cheap quality of their clothes and accessories, in the
same way you can easily tell that the kid showing up at your doorstep on
Halloween is not really Spider Man.
Ikuko, for her transformation, did something very different.
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Not so Fake
I showed these photos to an older lady who really knew the subject, and
even when she saw the “Peace” photo she wasn't quite sure that Ikuko wasn't
a real maiko, because everything else about her seemed spot-on
correct.... because it was. The clothes and accessories are all real, as
was the preparation: she had spent three and a half hours being prepared by
a bevy of professionals that normally exclusively serve the real
maiko and geiko (Kyoto geisha) population. People to do the
hair (which, like a real maiko, is Ikuko's real hair), her makeup,
and even a specialist to help her get into the kimono. Not many women,
maiko and geiko included, can actually dress themselves in
these kimono.
Having natural grace and class, as Ikuko does, helps to complete the package.
This kind of experience is just not something one can normally have, but
Ikuko comes from an artist's family with connections in the wider cultural community
(her dad is the potter mentioned here), so I suppose that's how this unique opportunity came
about. Her family is friends with Zak's, and I met Ikuko a few years ago when she came to his house
to babysit Zak's kids.
Zak was asked to take photos for Ikuko's “transformation”, and Zak was kind enough to invite me along as well.
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Strolling in Old Kyoto
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Family Fun
with Zak, her folks, and a brother
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Typical Scene
she's in the background to the left
The narrow streets made for a picturesque setting at times, and for mild
crowded chaos at others. Japanese and foreign tourists alike would crowd in
for photos of Ikuko, and with Ikuko.
I chose to include the picture above because I like the daring bold of
the couple in the foreground, who had just had their photo taken with
Ikuko. The fuzzy guy in the near foreground is a mailman who had just
ridden his scooter through the scrum around Ikuko with a certain
indifference that I'm sure comes from the frequency with which he
encounters this kind of scene during the course of his day in Gion.
Ikuko was much more accommodating to stopping for others than a
real maiko would be, so someone familiar with Kyoto would pretty
quickly realize that she wasn't a maiko. Real maiko, when
encountered out on the street like this, can not generally be accommodating to
passers by because they are either working (and it would be rude to divert
concentration from their customer for your photo), or they're busy on their
way somewhere.
The evening after I took these photos, on the way back from dinner at Uroko with Damien, I came across two maiko, a geiko, and their customers piling into
taxis near the Shijo Ohashi bridge. A crowed had gathered, but the
maiko and geiko completely ignored everyone but their
customers to the point that a maiko was almost plowed over because
without looking she stepped right into the path of the flow of foot traffic on the sidewalk. The person who almost crashed into her happened to be the person right in front of me,
and I'm glad there wasn't an “event” because I might have then tripped over both of them,
and even if not, I didn't have my camera with me so what's the point?
.
Anyway, I don't really care for the whole “geisha” thing and generally
make a specific point not to pay attention when I come across them like
this, but I really enjoyed the photoshoot with Ikuko. Perhaps it's because
it was a normal Japanese girl dipping, just for a moment, into part of her
cultural history in a culturally-authentic way.
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Also, it helps that Ikuko was accommodating for photos and was just
generally a nice person, and of course it helps a lot that, unlike the
majority of maiko and geiko that I come across, she is
actually attractive. I hope to do a “normal” photoshoot with her
when the weather warms up, perhaps at the Haradanien Garden.
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Like Culture, Like Kimono
layers deep
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