And Finally, We Climb a Glacier

Almost inconceivably, we had lived in Iceland for three months without having been on a glacier. These massive chunks of ice account for over ten percent of the surface area, and exert enormous influence over life on the island. Had we totally neglected them, our exploration of the country would have been truly incomplete. And so, on our final Icelandic excursion, we struck off across the ice.

We arrived at Skaftafell bright and early on a Saturday morning. Yes, I said “bright”. In stark contr...