A Drive Around Tröllaskagi

Although the great majority of it is completely inaccessible to anyone but the most adventurous hiker, the peninsula of Tröllaskagi is one of Iceland’s more heavily-populated regions. It’s book-ended by Sauðárkrókúr to the west and Akureyri to the east, with the towns of Hofsós, Sigluförður, Dalvík and Ólafsfjörður strung out along the coast. We drove along the coastal road just after the year’s first snowfall.

We’re starting to become more Icelandic. On the morning we were leaving Sauðárkrókú...