Hello from rainy Gongju. It’s cats and dogs here – quite literally as this morning I had a...
Hello from rainy Gongju. It’s cats and dogs here – quite literally as this morning I had a little dusty paw print on my plimsoles which I assume was the wee cat mewling under my Hanok at 2am yesterday night. When I arrived at the Hanok I had the wonderful, and incredibly touching, surprise of a gift from a young woman called Sora who was at my Gongju talk last week. In the parcel were some lovely Korean gifts and most importantly the most lovely letter. I wasn’t there to say thank you to Sora so I hope she might be reading this so I can say – you made my day, Sora, thank you so much.
For those unfamiliar with a Hanok, that’s probably almost everyone, including me until last week, it’s a traditional wooden house with underfloor stone heating. Mine is about the width of a double bed, spotlessly clean, it’s only furnishing is bedding, a TV and tiny little cabinets. It’s a wonderful experience though the fact you sleep on the floor with a very thin mat was a bit of a shock. Good for my back though I’m sure.
The air smells clean in Gongju and there is a big river, mountains. My blond ponytail is clearly more noticeable here and so I feel like I did often in my district in Hanoi like a giant white elephant galumphing down the street with children staring goggled eyed.
Today I went to Ui-Dang Elementary School. The principle, the inspiring Mrs Kim, had attended my talk in Gongju last week and asked me to come and talk to the children. As ever everyone has been unfailingly kind and lovely to me. The principle has done an extraordinary job with school, building a separate auditorium, walking trails, an allotment plot, doing outreach work to disadvantaged student’s families in neighbouring villages, as well as a host of other after school programmes…and all just in two years. Interestingly, principals and teachers can only stay in any given school for four years and then the government reassigns them to another school on a constant shifting rota.
Anyway, it was another of those entirely singular experiences I keep having. I was parted from my sodden shoes on arrival and given a pair of standard issue rubber sandals and, paired with some baby blue socks, went forth in the true Brit abroad fashion. I had lunch in the canteen with the principal and Julih, a South-African teacher. Lunch was delicious – Kimchi, rice cakes with squid, green beans…and a little girl came up and cuddle bombed me halfway though it. Afterwards I had tea with the principal and then went and did a talk to the English Club. I told them the story of the Loch Ness Monster and then answered their pre-prepared questions like ‘what are the disadvantages to being a writer?’ and ‘Do you do after school dancing club in England?’ (the principal requested I attempt some Gangham Style dancing. I obliged. Much laughter). Afterwards I gave a slightly abridged performance of Wee Wullie Winkie in school assembly and then stood at the door and high-fived every single kid as they left the auditorium.
I am knackered. I’ve still not quite worked out food here but my urge for some Korean Fried Chicken and a beer is strong. I’m here until Saturday now and, while it rains, I’m going to cosy like a little cat in my warm Hanok and read and write. That is all for now.
Oh actually…I also did this podcast with the very lovely and bloody cool Nikesh Shukla I laugh a lot. And say amazing a lot. Sorry.
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Yep. You know it. VOTE goddamn you.
