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Zwetschgendatschi, A Mouthful That Captures The Perfect Plumby NPR STAFFAugust 01, 2013 4:03 PM

If it's early August, it must be time for Damson plums. Gersine Bullock-Prado — a Vermont-based pastry chef and author of Bake It Like You Mean It — has a special place in her heart for them."They're not like your normal plum. They're not round. They're oval and very dark purple, almost black."When barely ripe, the plums are firm, tart and olive green, Bullock-Prado says. "[They're] just these lovely little orbs of joy."The fruit is the key ingredient in one of her favorite desserts: Zwetschgendatschi (pronounced ts-vetch-kin-dah-chee), which is the Bavarian word for plum cake. She shared the recipe forAll Things Considered's Found Recipes series.In additional to being delicious, it's also beautiful. Bullock-Prado says it "looks like a flower in full bloom." The cake is traditionally made on a sheet pan and as it bakes, the plum skins start to run red and dye the dough underneath a ruby red color.She says the dessert takes her back to her childhood."I grew up half German and half, I call it, 'Alabamonian' — my father's from Birmingham, Ala.," she says. "My mother [Helga] was an opera singer and met my father in Germany while he was stationed there."More From Bullock-PradoWalnut Meringue Cookies Sealed With A 'Kiss' June 14, 2012A Baker's Escape From Hollywood Jan. 3, 2010She says they always had Zwetschgendatschi in the summer no matter where they were — Germany or Arlington, Va. Every time they had the cake, it felt like a special occasion."These plums were so in the season for only about a week or two," she says. "And when we could find them in the States at the time, it was just a joy and a rarity."Bullock-Prado ended up opening a pastry shop years later. One day, a man came in and requested a cake he'd had in Germany around World War II. After a few questions, she discovered he was talking about the Zwetschgendatschi. He asked if she could bake him one. Although she said yes, she knew it wasn't going to be easy."It wasn't tough because it's a tough thing to make — the tough part was that I hadn't made it since my mom died," she says. "So I was sitting there thinking, 'I don't want to do this because it'll bring back so many memories and I'm going to break down in the kitchen and I'll just look silly to my employees.' "But Bullock-Prado steeled herself, and when the plums were in season, she set to work. Pressing out the dough and putting it the oven proceeded without incident. But when she opened oven door 40 minutes later, she lost it."That smell came to me — and it was my mother, my mother was in the room, and I started to weep. I mean that smell that comes from that cake, it's different from any plum cake or apricot cake; it is so specific," she says. "And since it was my mother's joy to make in the summertime, it was Helga coming from the oven."When her employees came into the kitchen to see what was going on, they assumed something must have exploded in the oven, "that'd I'd done something horribly wrong," she says."But ... I'd done something incredibly right," she says. "It was just sad and fantastic all at the same time."Recipe: ZwetschgendatschiBullock-Prado used traditional plums in the version pictured here because the Damson variety weren't quite in season.

Published on August 02, 2013 11:25
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