whatthehellamiwriting:Pretty sure nothing bad can happen to me...

whatthehellamiwriting:

Pretty sure nothing bad can happen to me when I’m wearing my lucky hat. — Carol Danvers (Captain Marvel #9, written by Kelly Sue DeConnick; art by Filipe Andrade)

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As I’ve mentioned before, I am both a comic book nerd and a crocheter. So, of course, when the really awesome knitting pattern requested by Kelly Sue made the rounds of the internet, I knew I had to try and come up with a crochet version.

Here’s the thing: It takes me forever to write a proper crochet pattern. I like to crochet things, and I like to  write down how I did it, but my editing process on everything is pretty intense, and detail-oriented tech editing is super-intense (with my being well-trained and all). So, rather than a full pattern, I’m just gonna walk you through the basic steps, and then I’ll be happy to answer questions if you have any.

So, here we go:

How to crochet your own lucky hat:

Stitches used:

chain
single crochet (sc)
slip stitch (ss)

Techniques used:

joining
increasing
decreasing
working in the round

Before you crochet, gather supplies:

H-Hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors
One skein each blue, yellow, and red in worsted weight (I used random yarn I had lying around, and the only one that still had a label was the blue yarn, which is TLC Essentials. I would recommend it for all parts of the hat [and it comes in non-striped colors]).

Step 1: Make a square

The hat you see above started as a square of 20 sc in a row with 20 rows completed. I have sort of a small head (and the hat is slightly snug on me), so I would recommend a starting square of 21 or 22 across depending on the size of your head. 

So, pick a preferred number and make a square as follows:

Chain 22 (23) 

Row 1: Skipping first chain, sc in each chain across (You will either have 21 or 22 sc stitches when you finish, depending on your starting chain). Chain 1, turn.

Row 2: Skipping the chain stitch (DO NOT WORK IN CHAIN STITCH), sc in each sc across. (21 or 22 sc at end; you should always have the same number of sc that you started with in that first row.) Chain 1, turn.

Row 3-21 (22): Repeat row 2.

—

Step 2: Make a box

The hat, as you can see, is basically a square with fun floppy bits attached. To achieve this, you’re going to finish row 21 or 22 (depending on how many stitches per row you have), then you’re going to chain 1 and start working around the edge of the square.

If you’re a righty: You will be crocheting down the left side of the square first.

If you’re a lefty: You will be crocheting down the right side of the square first.

If you’ve worked in the round before, that’s what you’re doing here, just on a square base rather than a round one. The basic construction is as follows:

Round 1: Chain 1, sc in first side stitch. Sc in each side stitch around until you reach a corner. Sc twice in the corner stitch. Sc across to next corner stitch. Sc twice in corner stitch. Sc up other side stitches. Sc twice in next corner stitch. Sc across to next corner stitch. Sc twice into corner stitch. Join first stitch and last stitch with a ss, chain 1, turn. (You should end with 88 stitches or 92 stitches depending on if you started with 21 or 22 stitches in the square.)

Round 2: Do not work a stitch in the join stitch. Sc in next stitch and in every stitch around (Do not add stitches in corners). When you have come around again, join first stitch and last stitch with a ss, chain 1, turn.

Round 3-20 (21): Repeat Round 2.

Round 21 (22): Repeat round 2, but after join, pull yarn through and fasten off.

End of blue part! I’m sure you noticed that the rounds for the hat are the same number as the rows for the hat. Which means, if you need your hat a different size, just remember to always make squares. If you start with 18 stitches, you should make 18 rows, then 18 rounds. And your stitch number for your rounds should always be your starting stitch count, times four, plus four. So, basically this:

(_____ (number of stitches in a row) x 4) + 4 = _____ (number of stitches around)

So, if you know the general size of your hats, you can use that equation to know where to start.

Okay, onto the yellow! The yellow part is done in two parts. The first part is the band. The second part is the ear flaps. The band is simple. 

For band:

Round 1: Join yarn. Work a sc in every stitch around (you should end with the same number of stitches as are in the blue pattern). Join first and last stitch of the round with a ss. Chain 1, turn.

Round 2: Sc in each sc around. Join first and last stitch of the round with a ss. Chain 1, turn.

Round 3-8: Repeat round 2.

Round 9: Repeat round 2, but after join, pull yarn through and fasten off.

That’s it for the band. It’s nice and simple. Even better, the ear flaps are nice and simple, too! They’re just more sc down in rows off the band with a few decreases for shaping purposes.

Before you start the ear flaps: 

The ear flaps are worked from the back corner stitches. So, before you begin to stitch, mark the back corner stitches with a stitch marker so you know you’re starting them at the right place and that they’re evenly spaced. After you’ve marked your starting points, the ear flaps are as follows:

Row 1: Join yarn and sc 16 stitches across. Chain 1, turn. 

Row 2: Sc in each sc across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3-6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Sc in first 6 stitches. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Decrease over following 2 stitches. Sc in last 6 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 8: Sc in every stitch across (12 sc, and 2 decrease stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in first 5 stitches. Decrease over next 2 stitches Decrease over following 2 stitches. Sc in last 5 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in every stitch across (10 sc, and 2 decrease stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first 4 stitches. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Decrease over following 2 stitches. Sc in last 4 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in every stitch across (8 sc, and 2 decrease stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc in first 3 stitches. Decrease over next two stitches. Decrease over following 2 stitches. Sc in last 3 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 14: Sc in every stitch across (6 sc, and 2 decrease stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 15: Sc in every stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 16: Sc in ever stitch across. After working last stitch, pull yarn through and fasten off.

Once you do the first ear flap, do the other flap with the same pattern, and then you’ll have the flaps done!

Optional step: Once you’ve finished the ear flaps, you can work a round of sc around the entire brim and ear flaps so there’s a finished edge around the whole bottom of the hat. This will also help the ear flaps lay flat (work three sc in each bottom corner of the ear flaps to get this effect).

Now, floppy bits!

My floppy bits are obviously rather large. What can I say: I like a hat with some serious notice factor. I’m going to just give you the pattern for my floppy bits, and you can either use the same pattern and make big floppy bits, or you can adjust the size for more demure floppy bits.

My floppy bits pattern:

Make six, then sew on as you see fit:

Chain 9.

Row 1: DO NOT WORK FIRST CHAIN. Sc in each chain across (you’ll end with 8 sc). Chain 1, turn.

Row 2-3: Sc in each sc across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in first 2 sc. Work 2 sc in next stitch. Sc in next 2 sc. Work 2 sc in next stitch. Sc in last 2 sc. Chain 1, turn. 

Row 5: Sc in every sc across (you should have 10 sc stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first 3 sc. Work 2 sc in next stitch. Sc in next 2 sc. Work 2 sc in next stitch. Sc in last 3 sc. Chain 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in every sc across (you should have 12 sc stitches). Chain 1, turn.

Row 8: Sc in every sc across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 9-11: Repeat row 8.

Row 12: Sc in first 3 sc. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Sc in next 2 Sc. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Sc in last 3 sc. Chain 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc in each stitch across (you should end up with 10 sc at the end of this row). Chain 1, turn.

Row 14: Sc in each sc across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 15: Sc in first 2 sc. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Sc in next 2 stitches. Decrease over next two stitches. Sc in last 2 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 16: Sc in each stitch across (you should end up with 8 sc at the end of this row). Chain 1, turn.

Row 17: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 18: Sc in first 2 sc. Decrease over next 2 stitches. Decrease over following 2 stitches (you’re working 2 decreases right next to each other). Sc in last 2 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 19: Sc in each stitch across (you should end up with 6 sc at the end of this row). Chain 1, turn.

Row 20: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc in first stitch. Decrease over next two stitches. Decrease over following 2 stitches. Sc in last stitch. Chain 1, turn.

Row 22: Sc in each stitch across (you should end up with 4 sc at the end of this row). Chain 1, turn.

Row 23-24: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 25: Decrease over first 2 stitches. Decrease over last 2 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Row 26: Sc in each stitch across (you’ll have 2 sc). Chain 1, turn.

Row 27: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 28: Sc in each stitch across. Pull yarn through and fasten off.

Okay, once you’ve knocked those out, you’re gonna weave in all the ends and attach the floppy bits, and then you’re gonna have a hat. 

Boom. Awesome.