Nawlins

L. and I here in the Big Uneasy with a couple of days to spend now that her conference is done. Been around the French Quarter and visited the Garden District, ate jambalaya and blackened catfish at Olivier's and turtle soup and oyster-shrimp gumbo at the Commander.  Suggestions?  (Not only about food, tough that too.)  We are of course, old academic white people from New England, so names of secret voodoo bars that open at midnight and earsplitting ten-horn live bands are probably wasted on us, but out-of-the-way history is not.