A New York state of mind

Two permits and one inspection, and Mark could sell his beer at farmers’ markets

I have seen the future of craft brewing and it is New York State – I hope.

My recent trip to upstate New York was prompted by several beer-related reasons – my ongoing quest for a firkin (more on that later), a chance to visit a beer lab, a chat about hops – but high on the list was a chance to visit Mark Van Glad.

In his late twenties, Mark is the owner and brewmaster of Tundra Brewery, a micro located in the rolli...