Arthur's Blog: Readers Give Effective Reasons to Visit Trieste and Civitavecchia

In a recent post, I told of being stumped by four questions phoned in by listeners to the Travel Show.  Two of them told of itineraries or cruise embarkations that required they stay for a short time in either Trieste (on the border between Italy and Slovenia) or Civitavecchia (the port city of Rome, an hour away).  I responded that I very much doubted that either city had much for the tourist -- although I really didn't know.  Like most Americans, my visits to Civitavecchia were a few minutes in duration, on the way to board a cruise ship leaving from that large, industrial, seaside port. 

I have now received two responses e-mailed directly to me, and while neither letter outlined any outstanding sight or activity in either city, they told of less dramatic experiences which made me quite ashamed of my earlier cavalier response.  They provided, in effect, important lessons of how travelers to Europe can benefit from a simple, direct, non-touristic contact with the people and ordinary institutions of Europe -- like its restaurants, like its hotel personnel. 

First, from Gina Jaeger: 

Mr. Frommer,

You asked for reader feedback on your infamous four questions. One was is there is any reason to visit Trieste? I say YES!

My husband and I visited Venice in December 2009 on a short holiday from our US Navy duty station in Sicily. We only wanted to stay several nights in Venice, and then get out and see more of the area. We rented a car, and off we went. We 1st went to Udine, near a wonderful winery that we became familiar with in the states -- Di Lenardo. We had a tour of the winery by Max Di Lenardo, whom we had met in Washington, D.C. at a wine dinner. It was fabulous getting that private tour, and we bought 5 bottles of wine and he gave us tee-shirts. We stayed at the Astoria Udine that night, and it was a very nice hotel, but the dinner we had was fabulous -- Max had recommended a restaurant called Vitello D'Oro, or Golden Calf in English. We had one of the best dinners in our two years in Italy at that restaurant seated in front of a nice fire.

The next day we headed to Trieste for the night, before heading back to Venice to catch our flight back home to Sicily. We did not know what to expect, but we were pleasantly surprised. On the way to Trieste, we stopped and toured two sites: 1st, the Grotto Gigante -- the largest cave open in the world to visitors, and 2nd, Castello Miramare, or Miramare Castel -- home of Maximillan and Carlotta of Hapsburg fame. Although a drizzly day, we toured the house and the gorgeous gardens, and it was easily one of the best seaside castles we have visited. 

Following these tours, we headed to Trieste -- and we stayed that night at the Savoia Excelsior, one of the best hotels in Trieste right on the Adriatic sea. Since Trieste is so close to Slovenia and Croatia, the food there has a bit of that influence. Since it was December, there was a Christmas Market and the town was decorated for the holidays. We ate dinner at a local favorite restaurant, Osteria di Scarpon -- it again was fabulous. I also remember that we stopped in a little pub at one point that evening and I had the best italian hot chocolate I ever had in my life! Although I searched high and low throughout Italy for a duplicate during our time there, I could never find one quite as good. It was thick, and creamy, and exactly what you need on a cold, drizzly December night in a pub in Italy -- it was absolute heaven.

So we were there only one night, but my husband and I made a deal after that visit that we would go back there and spend more time. We have not yet been back there, but one night was not enough! It was really a pleasant surprise. 

And next, from Candy Skelton: 

I agree with you there there is little to do in Civitavecchia. However, on a visit to Europe in 2005, our family randomly booked The Sunbay Park Hotel after finding it on the internet. We wanted to be sure to be on time to catch our Mediterranean cruise, so we arrived a day early.

The Sunbay Park Hotel turned out to be quite a treat and one that we still think of as one of the best we have ever stayed in. We have done quite a bit of travelling around the world.

We checked in and settled in our room, then walked to downtown Civitavecchia, a short 10 or 15 minute stroll, looked around, then returned to the Sunbay Park Hotel.

Our room was fabulous with Tuscan-like views and beautifully hand painted tiles in the bathroom. The hotel entry and hallways were bathed in deep, rich wood.

The pool and view of the Mediterranean were extraordinary. The hotel had many amenities.

The food in the restaurant not only tasted delicious but came with excellent presentation. And the waiters attended to our every possible need. It happened to be my daughter's birthday and she ordered Noodles Alfredo. While it was not on the menu, they made it specially for her and had their waiter named Alfredo, deliver it to her. They thought this was so funny, just as we did. They clapped and sang Happy Birthday to her. They made her a special dish of various desserts and even put a lit candle in one. It was charmiing! The restaurant overlooked the sea and we had a spectacular view of the sunset.

So for someone who is spending a little time in Civitavecchia, I can't recommend this hotel more highly. I'm sure they would accommodate anyone who wanted to spend a day visit at their hotel. 

So there are two charming memoirs of brief stays in Trieste and Civitavecchia.  Forgive me for my quick dismissal of both cities.