Still up in Michigan

Yesterday we took a long schoolbus ride up to the northern peninsula, where many of Hemingway's early stories are set.  He revisited the area  himself when he was starting to write.  It was marvelous to walk through the actual country he was talking about.  We visited the Fox River, which was the actual location of the story "The Big Two-Hearted River" (many miles away, but inarguably a better name for a title).

We stopped by the railroad bridge where he jumped off the train, going back to "the last good country" after the war, and had lunch there – good and rather surprising, large Cornish pasties.  (A lot of the original settlers of the area were from Cornwall, miners.)  The river does look like great fishing.  Not the first time I've wished I could jump off the academic express and relax with a pole.

We drove on and visited an impressive waterfall.  It was sprinkling when we started to walk to the falls, and by the time we got there it was fairly pouring.  I had my trusty anarak, which is rustic but not exactly waterproof.  I saw the falls and then walked briskly back, a half mile or so, and got a good local pint at the rustic pub in the park headquarters there.  I drank it at leisure, and Gay caught up with me just as I finished.  The ride back to the hotel was long, through the muffled rain, but enjoyable enough, finishing up The Paris Wife.  A good book, even if you aren't fascinated by Hemingway.

Meals at this hotel have all been good, but last night was striking – planked trout, fresh and local.  The filet is pegged to an aged board and roasted, so its flavor is subtly changed by the wood; it's served on the plank and thus stays warm.

Leaving later this morning, but will be in the general area another day.  Going back to the lakeside Sugar Beach motel where our Yooper (for U.P., "upper peninsula") adventure began.

Joe