Čertovka – The Devil’s Stream

Today we turn to Prague Unbound, the odd guidebook acquired by Lee Holloway on his journey to Prague, to learn a little about the Čertovka canal.

Built in the Middle Ages to power millwheels, like many Prague landmarks Čertovka takes its name from a rather dark legend. Not so many hundreds of years ago, along the banks of the canal lived a woman so ill-tempered and vicious that local villagers painted devils upon her house as a warning to passersby. Her dwelling became known as the House of Seven Devils, and because the canal ran by her house and she washed her foul clothes in its waters, it became known as Čertovka – ‘The Devil’s Stream.’ It said on certain nights you can still see her cursing and spitting and washing her clothes in the coal black water – but be careful. If she catches you looking, legend has it you will be dead in the span of seven days.

Čertovka is also home to a pipe-smoking water sprite (vodník) named Kabourek, who in bygone days was such a faithful patron of the local taverns that innkeepers would bring him a bucket of water in which to soak his webbed feet as he drank beer so that he felt more at home. But times change, and now that Kabourek is no longer allowed inside the taverns, he usually stays deep underwater, surrounded by the rich antiques Castle invaders have throughout the centuries cast into the canal (including, it’s said, a fine portrait of Emperor Rudolf II). But sometimes his thirst overwhelms him and he comes to the surface to beg passersby to bring him beer – if they do, he usually reciprocates with an eel. If they refuse, he attempts to drown them.

You may be tempted to dip into the canal for a little swim. Think carefully before you do. There are worse things than Kabourek lurking in its waters.

(Photo via Paul Holloway)