Beqa Island, Fiji Captures the Heart
If you’re seeking to travel to a destination without the crowds, noise, pollution, and congestion where the people readily share their traditions and are friendly, then Beqa Island, Fiji should rank high on the list. Located 1,800 miles away from any other country in the South Pacific, Fiji is made up of three hundred islands. Beqa Island lies seven miles south of the mainland and boasts some of the most astounding coral reef and shark dives in the world. Made up of nine villages with a population of just under 4,000, Beqa is both primitive and inviting after an arduous journey, like a rainbow at the end of a storm.
We departed our home in Pennslyvania at 10:30 am on Saturday, July, 20, 2024 and arrived at 11:30 am Monday, July 22, 2024 on Beqa Island. When crossing the international date line, we never experienced the date of July 21, 2024. Our total travel time was 27 hours. At the modest but efficient Nadi airport we boarded a bus for the bumpy three hour ride to Pacific Harbor at the southern tip of Fiji. Though we had a stop along the way for coffee and local gift shopping, even this souvenir seeker felt little desire to look at anything other than a lounge chair facing the ocean. As the staff placed our luggage on the boat we carefully stepped on the vessel, our third means of transportation in the past 24 hours. It was a rapid 45 minute ride across somewhat choppy waters. In the distance was a small piece of land lush with tropical green shrubbery and swaying palm trees that reminded me of Gilligan’s Island. As it came into view it appeared as though the Professor made it back to civilization and returned with a contractor to the island that was now boasting cottages (Bure’s) and a modest resort on the shoreline.
The boat anchored a short distance from shore. As we got off the boat and waded through the sparkling blue water, the Beqa Lagoon Resort staff stood on the sand waving and singing to us in their native tongue. During the greeting, our group of weary travelers were given a wooden cup of coconut water and a shell necklace was draped around our necks. This glorious welcome melted away my apprehensions brought on by the long, challenging journey and jet lag.
As my water shoes navigated the shallow waters of the South Pacific Ocean, the sea air tickled my nose and the sweet harmony filled the air. After leaving a heatwave back home, the cool tropical breeze and mild (their) winter temperatures running parallel at 80 degrees both in and out of the water was soothing from head to toe.
Check in at the front desk was orderly and expedient. The general manager told us that there’s “No need for a key. There is a safe in the room for your passport and any personal items.” We soon discovered that with no crime, theft, or incidents to report there’s no need for police and therefore they do not exist on the island.
After check in, my husband and I walked to our Bure’ along a slab concrete path dotted with hibiscus bushes, Irises, mango and coconut trees. Our spacious living quarters for the next seven days encompassed a sitting area, a full sized and king sized bed, a closet and sink with an adjoining bathroom. There were windows from floor to ceiling with drapes that housekeeping opened in the morning and then closed in the evening after adorning the bed and sitting area with hibiscus flowers. The porch area offered a plunge pool, comfortable seating area, and a hammock, all with a beautiful view of the lagoon.
Within an hour lunch was served. We unpacked and walked back to the covered picnic style dining area with a bar and open view of the ocean. During lunch the general manager greeted our group and went over the activities to sign up for throughout the week on a large bulletin board. The menus came out every morning with a small piece of paper to check off the offerings for all three daily meals. Oh, how I loved not having to pull out my phone to scan a menu. This was basic or rather simple living on an island that boasts being on Fiji time. No need to watch the clock, instead listen for the call of the drums sounding off meal time. Though, I was pleasantly surprised that I could FaceTime my family back home without considering anything but the 17 hour time difference.
During the planning stages, we had received an email from our dive coordinator suggesting we bring school supplies or books to donate to the village school. I put together a four book gift set of the young reader books I wrote with stickers signed by the author on the covers. On our second day, those interested could sign up to walk to the nearby village and visit the school children. I wore a dress that covered my knees and shoulders as advised by the activities director, out of respect to the village chief. Thankfully, the sun was shining as we traversed through the jungle with one of the resort’s staff guiding us along to the primary school. As I held my books close in hand, I felt like the studious zoologist Jane and was half expecting Tarzan to swing in front of us on a vine.
Once at the primary school we sat on folding chairs in an open field where the children, ages five to sixteen dressed in blue and white school uniforms, sang native Fijian songs. The music teacher asked us to state our name and pause so that the children could personally greet us. This was so moving to hear these adorable children in a place so far away say, “Bula, Ruthie.” Then we were asked to say where we were from and offer some advice. When I showed them my books, they sat up and clapped. My heart soared and I felt like this beautiful moment was pressed upon my chest forever. Their last song, This Land Is Your Land, took me back to my grade school days of chorus and for a moment I was a child with them. Later we were given a tour of the modest school where I donated my books to the library for all to enjoy.
On day three, my friends and I went snorkeling off shore while my husband and daughter participated in the deep sea dives. We encountered schools of fish and several unique bright navy blue starfish. Later in the week we went on a snorkeling activity that took us thirty minutes out by boat to Nemo’s Garden, a spectacular part of the South Pacific sea with vivid topaz and aqua blues where the colorful fish shimmied in and out of various coral reefs, as though it was their Taj Mahal. We returned in time to change for dinner with an appetite as big as the sea.
In the past, Fiji was known as the Cannibal Islands with the last recorded incident involving a missionary in the 1860s who was captured and used in a cannibal ritual. Today, the fun-loving, kind and welcoming people joke about this part of Fijian History. After enjoying a delicious dinner of local fish and rooted vegetables, a handful of Beqa men from the Sawau tribe dressed in grass skirts, prepared a pit with stones and embers while offering chants to induce blessings and protection before performing a thrilling fire walking ritual.
When we endured a day of on and off showers, our activities director took us on a walking tour of the resort describing the various plants and herbs used by the islanders to cure colds, asthma, insomnia and rashes. I experienced one of the rooted plants, Kava, grown on the island and taken for a sedating affect, during a ceremony with the chief presiding over a large wooden bowl offering sips from a coconut cup. At breakfast the following morning those in our group who drank the Kava attested to experiencing a deep restful sleep. At least once a day we experienced the culture of the island with an activity including: a basket weaving demonstration, coconut cooking class, and Tapas art painting. As the instructor guided us along he relayed the history behind the process.
While enjoying my morning walk and sipping fresh mango juice — I did see a Mongoose not far from my Bure in the shrubbery. We both were startled and he scrambled off in a fast uncertainty that I find so appealing in these comical and brave (they will fight off lions and eat snakes) wildlife animals. On a much tamer note and as a dog lover, the sight of three dogs presiding over the resort in various stations added to the comfort of our stay. It was obvious the dogs were on Fiji time, too, as they stretched and sunbathed throughout the day, happily chasing crabs on the beach in the early morning and playing tag with one another at dusk. Petting them is allowed and the submissive dogs seem to always be within the reach of a belly rub. Several nights one dog slept on our porch trotting ahead of us in the morning on the way to breakfast. These dogs are not strays, they are cared for by the resort and feeding them is punishable with a stiff fine. I’m thinking of instilling that rule in my home. “Giving scraps to the dog will incur a $50 fine.”
Sunset was around 5:45, right before dinnertime, as opposed to the nearly 8 pm back home. This worked well with our inner time clock that had us going to bed around 9pm and waking up by 6 am. Taking in the stunning sunset at the horizon of the glistening and pristine South Pacific Sea with a mango juice cocktail in hand was a breathtaking experience only matched by the vibrant rainbow that touched one end of the lagoon to the other so close we could practically touch it.
Bula, the greeting rolled off my lips when I passed one of the resort employees during the treks to my Bure’. They smiled singing Bula back. On this serene and somewhat remote island there are no motorcars, no guns and the pull of the internet seems as far away as the place itself. The joyful people are proud of their culture and enjoy sharing it with others.
One of the workers told me the only time she was on the mainland of Fiji was to have her baby at the hospital. “I have never been on a plane and don’t need to go to other countries. Other countries come here.”
The Resort staff picked hibiscus flowers for the departing travelers to wear in our hair. They told us that Island tradition is to throw the flower into the sea from the boat. If the flower returns to shore then you will also return one day.
The long journey home didn’t hinder our gratitude for visiting a place so special-it was worth it.
