A bowler with only one leg in a park in Calcutta

WHEN I TRAVEL, the things that fascinate me most are not listed in any travel guidebooks. It is chance glimpses of everyday life that interest and delight me most.

This morning (9th of January 2024), we took a morning walk on Calcutta’s Maidan – a vast green space running along the western edge of the heart of the city. After entering the area from Park Street, we walked past a tall statue of Jawaharlal Nehru and came across a large pond, where a few people were bathing.

We walked along the path near to the pool, and met a flock of goats being herded along it towards us. Nearby in a large field, groups of school children were doing drill, marching on the spot, shouting “left, right, left, …”. A boy nearby was beating time on a drum. Beyond the children, there was another flock of goats. Looking away from them, we could see tall buildings through the dusty, hazy sunlight.

We followed various paths in a northerly direction, and came across a fenced in compound where we saw military cadets being taught outdoors. One of their teachers stood at a portable lectern upon which he had his lecture notes. Next, we saw a cricket match. We watched for a few moments, but nothing exciting happened.

Heading further north, we passed a huge open space fringed with various kinds of trees, including palms. Near the northern edge of the field, we came across a cricket practicing net. What we saw there was quite unexpected.

The one-legged bowler in action

There was nothing unusual about the batsman in the net. Padded up, he faced the bowlers, and whacked the balls bowled at him. There were two bowlers, who took turns to pitch the ball at the batsman.

One of the bowlers was an invalid. One of his legs had been amputated at knee level, or maybe just above. He supported himself on his one intact leg and a stout pole that he used as a crutch. Each time he bowled, the ball flew fast and was aimed accurately. Despite his considerable impediment, he was a formidable bowler. We watched spellbound as he bowled over and over again. If one had been unable to see his legs and his support, one would never have guessed that he had a serious physical impairment. It was life enhancing seeing this man making the most of life.

After watching the one-legged bowler, we hailed a taxi to carry us up to College Street, where we experienced another event that you would not find in any guidebook, but more about this in a future essay.