Full-circle Altai: Budapest. A Charm that Lingered.

 Closer. My footsteps are not setting the pace, theyare increasing it. I want to see it all, to perceive it all, to take it all in!Sooner. I am back in Budapest!

Although I have a great preference for old Ottomanstone bridges, the Chain Bridge (Lánchíd)is still one of the most beautiful bridges in the world. To me. Walking on it,looking at it from Buda Castle (BudaiVár), trying to get that luminous shot with the Hungarian ParliamentBuilding (Országház) silhouette in thebackground – it is still spectacular. Massive is followed by lacy, as I keepplaying a romantic hide-and-seek game with the buildings on the opposite bankwhile walking through the Fishermen’s Bastion (Halászbástya). Despite the reign of dusk being rightfullyunderway, the Labyrinth of Buda Castle (Budavári Labirintus) drives me deeper into darkness and makes me sip mystery, bit bybit.

These are the important elements that define Budapestand its grandeur. This noun naturally fits the description. After all, itshared the ‘capital’ prerogatives with Vienna during the Austro-HungarianEmpire. It was a secondary capital, it is true, but a very edible luxury hasalways been its trademark. It made elites /this term changed over the past 4 years - my note, 28.12.2023, but I won't replace it in the text/ gather around, create, and call ithome. Ady Endre, Éva Gábor, Petőfi Sándor, to name but a few. As empire statesof mind got lost and the world became business-oriented, the city landed againon its feet by sharing the same time zone with most of Western Europe whilebeing deeply anchored in and connected to the East. A privilege, a keyposition, an Ace up Budapest’s sleeve!

The Danube – one of the world’s most fascinatingrivers – also contributed to the success mentioned above and to the extra potentialthat water tourism brings: cruises from Germany to Romania that inevitably passBudapest. I will resize the territory considered by referring to the one framedby the city limits. And here is a secret: I am not fond of crowded spaces. If Iwere to make an exception, it would only involve great live music or great foodon board. Otherwise, I would surely opt for a Dunarama cruise – fast, not to get you bored, yet slow and safeenough to let you scan all those symbols you have missed or are just about todiscover. Mahogany reminding you of Côte d'Azur or Venice will add that special feeling of being special.

So will a trip to the famous baths of the city – weall need to be spoiled every once in a while. There is variety. Even if a gameof chess at Széchenyi Medicinal Bath (Széchenyi-gyógyfürdő),a dip under the high columns of Gellért Baths (Gellért Gyógyfürdő), and a glimpse at the ceiling of one of theoldest baths in Budapest, namely Rudas Bath (Rudasfürdő), sound all tempting, it will still be hard to choose. It is also achoice of style: Neo-Baroque, Art Nouveau, or Ottoman.

Interesting ingredients in the mix that still brandsthe Hungarian capital, yet provide a curious case of unity through diversity! Iam still fascinated by trendy shop windows, in typical strong colours, and thenI remember the design and redesign exhibitions that so many of the people inBudapest love!

It is a continuous search and redefining of artthrough jazz concerts held by local artists in chic cafés and opera shows enchanting the audience not only bythe high notes on stage but also by those found in the interior details of theHungarian State Opera House (MagyarÁllami Operaház). Dutch, German, and French masters, as well as the second-largestcollection of Spanish painters after Prado in Madrid, are all hosted by theMuseum of Fine Arts (SzépművészetiMúzeum). During the renovation of the museum (until 2018), some of the mostimpressive works were moved to the Hungarian National Gallery (Magyar Nemzeti Galeria) and wereavailable to the public.

The passion for art of Hungarians matches theirpassion for culinary art, especially for desserts. I know most of them all toowell, as I remember my two grandmothers spoiling me during my childhood years.Those tastes lingered. Visiting each welcoming cukrászda [cake shop] in Budapest, the gustatory memories arebrought back to life, to a currently-renewed opportunity to famousness. Thelayers of thick custard in the Christmas-morning krémes, the chocolate buttercream in the Dobos torta [Dobos cake] served during special celebrations ofspring, the juiciness of August plums in the szilvás gombóc [plum dumplings], the September freshness of cottagecheese in the túrógombóc [sweet cheesedumplings], and the plenary flavour of somlóigaluska. The best I tried in Budapest was at the renowned Szamos Marcipán.Not only is the service impeccable, but innovation is in store, as truffle andChristmas candy (szaloncukor) makingclasses are organised here.

At home, in a universe that encourages us to dreambig, charm continues its Budapesti mission.

 

Extra—

I’ve been to Budapest so many times! I love this city,even though I’ve realised that it is not as bright as I thought /more on thison another occasion/.

The last time was in September/October 2018 (en route to Altai). 

It was anopportunity to eat some fluffy vajaskifli, walk a lot /on both banks of the Danube/, have some Dobos torta atSzamos Marcipán, and enjoy some family time /my cousin Attila spoiled us withsome somlói galuska he made himself/.

Was there something new to discover? The House of Houdini, with the related magic show, in a part of Budapest we hadn’t explored as much as the others.

So, here it is, I’ll end it with magic because it’ssomething that happens every second. We have invisible wands that never ceaseworking.

 

/The piece – without the ‘Extra’ part – was first published in February2017 on www.skylife.com – Turkish Airlines’in-flight magazine –, which ceased to exist; not included in social mediaposts and the weekly newsletter /