Backpacking the Susquehannock Trail System (STS)

Cherry Springs Vista, just off the STS

Length: 84 mile loop. The longest loop trail in the east.

Blazes: The STS is blazed orange, side trails are often yellow or red.

Duration: 4-8 days to do the entire trail as a thruhike.

History: The trail was built in 1968, making it one of the older backpacking trails in the country.

Difficulty: Varied. Easy to difficult. The STS is easier than the Black Forest Trail, but harder than the West Rim Trail, Old Loggers Path, or Allegheny Front Trail.

Terrain: The STS has plenty of ups and downs, but they tend to be gradual. Climbs and descents can reach a thousand vertical feet. The trail also has plenty of rolling and level sections. Cardiac Climb is the most famous steep part, but Morgan Hollow, near Left Branch Young Womens Creek, is much more challenging and is the steepest part of the STS.

Trail conditions: The trail is generally well marked and maintained. There are brushy sections, particularly in the Hammersley Wild Area north of the pool. There are some wet areas. The trail has no significant rocky areas or scrambling. It is often a fairly smooth trail. There are many stream crossings and several have bridges. Many trail junctures have signs.

Amenities: The STS has seven shelters and one small hut. Ole Bull State Park has water, bathrooms, camping and showers (fee applies), even a beach and swimming area. Cross Fork has Deb’s, a bar/restaurant, a small general store, and a post office to mail resupply boxes. There are also small hotels in Cross Fork. Lyman Run State Park is a short hike from the trail. It has a beach and swimming area, showers and camping (fee applies), and a seasonal snack shop.

Trailheads: The STS crosses many roads with small parking areas. The three main trailheads are the Northern Gateway/ Susquehannock Forest office 41.768418, -77.869546 , Ole Bull State Park 41.538682, -77.714718 , Cross Fork/Susquehannock Forest building 41.482110, -77.818396 . Make sure you leave your contact and vehicle information.

Fees/permits: None. Large backpacking groups (over 10, I believe) may need approval from the Susquehannock State Forest.

Which way to hike? I think the best route is clockwise from the Northern Gateway. This puts Cross Fork roughly half way where you can get a meal, resupply, or even a room.

Water: Generally common. However, the STS crosses many small streams that are dry in summer. Water quality is usually good.

Shelters: The STS has some of the nicest shelters I’ve seen on any trail. They often have furniture, like chairs and picnic tables. Some shelters are in dry locations and the Susquehannock Trail Club tries to cache water at those shelters, but it is not guaranteed. The shelters are as follows:

Dynamite House (small hut). Usually dry. Historical interest. Very dark inside.

Bolich Run Shelter. A favorite shelter of mine. Located in a meadow with a hemlock shaded creek nearby. There is even an open air privy.

Spook Hollow Shelter. Dry. A great place to stay over Halloween.

Scoval Branch Shelter. There is water, but it is swampy. Better water is downstream a half mile. Beautiful location.

Gravel Lick Shelter. Dry. Located very close to McConnell Road. Secret hint: walk McConnell Road east a few hundred feet to beautiful Hammersley Vista, great for sunrises.

Wild Boy Shelter. Another favorite. Isolated. Creeks nearby, even a spring that cascades over a rock outcrop.

Ford Hollow Shelter. The newest shelter is located near a creek. (I may have been the first to stay here overnight). I heard elk bugle here. Isolated feel. Another favorite. Located near a private property line and you can see meadows through the trees.

Sunken Branch Shelter. Dry. Nice location on an old, grassy forest road.

Who maintains the STS? That would be the Susquehannock Trail Club (STC). I’ve never seen a club take such loving care of their trail. You’ll see once you visit their shelters, and very cool log footbridges. There are also memorial benches and trail signs with the history of the sign and what kind of wood it was made from. STC on Facebook.

Guides and maps: The STC sells a guidebook and maps. The STS is on the FarOut app. The Susquehannock State Forest has free trail maps.

Highlights: Deep woods, isolation, scenic streams, great camping and shelters, Cross Fork, Ole Bull State Park, Spook Hollow, Greenlick Run, meadows, beaver dams and ponds, possibility to see elk, Hammersley Wild Area, Hammersley Pool, wildflowers, wildlife, variety of footbridges.

Things to be aware of: This trail has few views (a few are just off trail and are worth seeing) and no large waterfalls. If you’re looking for lots of views, waterfalls, and other classic scenery, the STS may not be for you. This is very much an isolated forests and creeks kind of trail.

While many creeks have bridges, all do not. Expect wet feet if creeks are flowing well. There is no bridge across Hammersley Fork which can be a sizeable crossing. Do not attempt in high water.

The STC tries very hard to maintain the trail, but you can expect brushy areas.

ATV trails cross the northern part of the STS, those trails are open late Spring to early October.

Other trails: Many other trails connect to the STS; this area has a vast trail system. The STS has two cross connector trails: West Branch and East Fork Trails. The STS also connects to the Donut Hole Trail. The STS connects to the famous Black Forest Trail via the North and South Link Trails, allowing an even larger loop.

Resupply: Cross Fork is the best resupply where you can mail a package to the post office. There is a small general store, but it has mostly candy and some snacks. It does not offer enough for a full resupply.

Best time to hike? All year, potentially. Spring brings lots of wildflowers. June has the mountain laurel blooms. Late September and early October have great fall colors. The STS would be gorgeous after a light snowfall, with convenient camping thanks to the shelters.

My favorite sections: I enjoyed most of the trail, but these were some of my favorite places: Jacob Hollow, Lyman Run, Cross Fork (creek), Ole Bull Run and State Park, Spook Hollow, Greenlick Run, Osborne Branch, Hammersley Wild Area from PA 144 to the Pool, East Fork Sinnemahoning Creek and Miller Farm.

See the vistas: The STS doesn’t have many views, but there are few close to the trail you should check out. Peek-a-boo Vista on the atv trail south of Lyman Run, Cherry Springs Vista on PA 44, Castle Vista in Ole Bull State Park, Hammersley Vista on McConnell Road.

Crowded? No. I don’t think the STS has ever been crowded. I experienced no competition for campsites or shelters (I was alone each night). Most people never see another hiker on their thruhikes. I saw four other backpackers and maybe ten dayhikers. Want isolation and serenity? This is the trail for you.

Would I thruhike it again? Yes. I really enjoyed the isolation and serenity, the deep woods, creeks, and occasional meadow. The shelters were a great convenience. I recommend this trail. The STS is the perfect trail if you’ve grown tired of popular and crowded trails.

For the maps above, C are established campsites I saw. S are new shelters not shown on the map. Note that not all the camping symbols on the map are established sites.
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Published on October 16, 2023 17:28
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