Flow Vélo 9 : Going Solo
La Flow Vélo from Nontron to St Pardoux La Rivière
Rain pelted against my car windscreen. It was 8°C outside, mist hung low over the hilltop town of Nontron and I wondered what I was doing here, alone, when I could have been curled up with a book in front of my fireplace.
The trouble was that I’d told people I was doing this short section of the Flow Vélo today. It was the missing piece in a jigsaw that was almost complete. I’d never hear the end of it if I just drove home.
I was in the Dordogne for a Saturday writing workshop and had tried to persuade my husband to come for the weekend so we could cycle together afterwards. But exciting things were happening at home. The male solitary bees woke up last week and were buzzing in a frenzy around the bamboo hotel my husband made them, waiting for the females. The first ones had just hatched. It was impossible for him to be absent right now.
The rain stopped. I found a car park, remembering from our last visit that Nontron is a town of steep hills and viaducts, with a lower part and an upper part.
I was in the upper part, where the Flow Vélo arrives from the west. Making up my mind to cycle, even if it was just for a spin around the town, I heaved my bike out of the car.
I’d spent the previous night in a friendly Airbnb near Excideuil and, prior to the writing workshop, had discovered the pretty town with its eye-catching castle (and lack of open restaurants).
I always pop into tourist offices, and Excideuil was no exception. That’s when I learnt the news. About the Flow Vélo.
The 290km cycleway is being extended in the Dordogne. In May, another 60km will be added, passing through Excideuil on the journey from Thiviers to Le-Lardin-St-Nazare. And after that, right down to Sarlat. In fact, there have been lots of developments to the route since last summer, as you can see in the 2023 Press Release. Typically, just as I’m nearing completion of it, I’ll have to start all over again!
I cycled around Nontron, searching for the Flow Vélo signposts. Knowing that I’d be coming back for the extension added to my lack of motivation. But – hang on – was that a glimpse of blue sky? The prospect of a little sun changed everything. After 2km of ups and downs, I found the exit from Nontron via the lower town.
The missing section in my Flow Vélo adventure was a mere 17km stretch of road, which meant a 34km return journey. I’d learnt from my mistakes about being over-ambitious last year: today’s objective was manageable. With a bit of luck I could have a coffee or even my picnic in St Pardoux before heading back.
Cowslips and banks of white blackthorn blossom restored my good mood as I pedalled up the long, gentle hill out of Nontron. I even heard my first cuckoo of the year.
My frozen fingers were soon warm and, although I was on the D707 main road, there were some interesting sights to stop and look at. Yes, that’s someone’s letterbox.
Just after, the route followed a much smaller lane, more characteristic of the Flow Vélo.
The lane cut through deforested woodland, saddening me, but there were sections of woods too, complete with woodpeckers, a couple of noisy jays and carpets of violets. There was also a pleasant silence – nothing to do with the absence of my husband.
I almost enjoyed the kilometres of descent, passing hamlets, noting the growing patches of blue in the sky and saying hello to the few people I passed. The only problem was knowing that, in a few hours, I’d be toiling up the same hill.
I was surprised to arrive at St Pardoux an hour and a quarter later with just 13km on my counter. I checked my guide. Silly me. The 17km were for the whole stage, which ends in Milhac-de-Nontron, a further 5km on.
Should I continue? Could I make it to the beautiful village of St.Jean-de-Côle for lunch?
No. I’m being reasonable this year.
Instead, I cycled around the village of St Pardoux, remembering our last trip here in 2020, when I first discovered the Flow Vélo. It’s a perfect place to camp for a few days. I tried to find a bottle of Two Bears’ beer (Les 2 Ours) to take home for my husband but Sundays aren’t the best days from a shopping point of view.
After a break, I climbed back onto my saddle and left for Nontron.
It’s actually fascinating coming back the same way, as you don’t see the same things. At least, that’s what I tried to tell myself as I passed this signpost that reminded me what lay ahead (translation: Hilly Road).
Actually, it wasn’t as bad as I feared. The steep parts of the 3km-climb (yes, I measured it) were balanced by flat parts.
At 1pm I arrived in Nontron, my legs nevertheless aching: it was only my second outing of the season.
At first I cursed myself for parking at the top of town. But the route leading through Nontron took me up a pretty street, making up for my aches.
Arriving at the car, with 28km on my counter, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Le Bacchus brasserie. And there I learnt that Les 2 Ours beer was no longer made in Nontron. The brewers have moved to St-Médard-de-Mussidan.
I wonder if it’s on the new Flow Vélo route? If so, I’m sure my husband will be by my side for that stretch. My fingers are crossed.
