Where fishermen once lived

FUNCHAL IN MADEIRA is a place well suited for unhurried exploration. At first, I was worried that 11 days might be too long for a stay here, but this is not the case: it is far too short. There is plenty to see and do without queuing for the famous cable car or for the toboggan ride down a steep road. There are interesting museums to see, but a great deal of pleasure can be derived from wandering leisurely around the older parts of the place.

Cable car passing above Zona Velha in Funchal

One area, which despite being rather ‘touristy’, is the Zona
Velha. East of the old patrician  areas around
the cathedral and the university, the Zona Velha used to be the poorer part of
the city, where fishermen and their  families lived in rather narrow crowded
streets near the seashore and the venerable Forte São Tiago.  This fortress was one of a chain of four or
five forts that used to protect Funchal from seaborne attackers.

The streets of the Zona Velha have become trendy and there has
been a conscious attempt to make the area bohemian. Many of the doors have been
painted with often entertaining designs and pictures. There are plenty of small
bars and restaurants,  but we were
advised by some ladies who work in a museum that these tend to be of poor
quality and are best avoided.

High above the Zona there is a terrace overlooking a sea
bathing area. Near this, there is an old church, the Igreja de Santiago Menor,
which was closed when we visited the district. The café next to the terrace
provided excellent coffee at a surprisingly reasonable price given the
wonderful sea view from its tables: we paid 3 Euros for two coffees and a
pastry.

As touristic areas go, the Zona Velha is certainly worth strolling
through. It is probably best to go there earlier in the day before the roads
are filled with tables  and chairs next
to the eateries.