The Tragedy of the Disappearing Xochimilco Floating Gardens

In Xochimilco, at least 25 colorful trajinera boats were stacked next to each other at the dock, and I needed to get to the one at the end. So, I jumped from boat to boat, laughing to myself. Things are different in Mexico. I wanted to come to Xochimilco because I’d once seen a picture of Frida Kahlo dipping her hand over the side of a trajinera in the crystal-clear water and it looked so peaceful and beautiful, so off I went. Xochimilco is a borough of Mexico City that used to be a lake town long ago before the lake diminished. It’s best known for its canals, leftover from an extensive system of almost hydroponic agriculture and transportation. Today, things are changing, and partying and tourism is taking over farming. Trajinera Boats in Xochimilco If floating down a canal on a boat sounds like a lovely afternoon, think again. It’s a wild ride. First off, you know you’re not in for a regular boat ride just by looking at them. They’re manically colored in every neon shade of paint you’ve ever seen and decorated with all sorts of fake flowers (once upon a time, they used to be real, […]

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