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From the Author's Credits to a book called Junk Food, for which Harry Crews wrote the essay, "Truckstops, Whores & Gravy." Just found a copy for $.30 on Amazon. (Already ordered it, get back.)

Harry Crews … [p]refers: "Nasty chili dogs you get in a tavern, shack, off the road, and there's a big fat mamma in there sweatin, and kids yellin half in English, half in Spanish. It's the home atmomosphere I love, a few flies buzzin, and their Daddy left in a big pickup truck. This all seems like a good idea at the time, but two-three hours later payback is a motherfucker.'"