Courage Fueled by Preparation

I have been surfing for over twenty years and have built up courage and knowledge over a long period of time. As a beginner, I would have been terrified of such a big, scary wave as Teahupo’o or Jaws – plus my body was just too small and it would have been silly for me to try to surf a wave like that without preparing in advance for the risks involved. As I put in the time...

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