Gin O’Clock – Part Eighty Seven
There are more than enough gins produced in this country,
thanks to the ginaissance, to be going on without having to consider ones
produced from farther afield. But I’m not one to shut my eyes to what is on
offer globally, particularly if it fits my taste requirements almost to a tee.
It doesn’t do to be a little Englander.
Always one willing to judge a book by its cover, my eye was
immediately drawn to the wonderfully elegant bottle housing Puerto de Indias
Pure Black Edition Gin. It is tall and black, using brass embossing to fine
effect at the front, representing the Tower of Gold, one of the symbols of the
city of Seville and around which its trading activities were concentrated. The
glass at the rear and below the bottom section of the bottle are embossed
within the glass itself. It is stunningly simple in design but highly effective
and, if nothing else, is a welcome aesthetic addition to my gin shelf. The
labelling is disappointingly uninformative, save for that it is “Sevillian
Premium Gin”.
The name of Puerto de Indias takes as its reference Seville’s
monopoly status in trading relationships between Spain and its territories in
the Americas, the gateway through which gold, other valuable minerals, and unusual
fruits and vegetables came into Spain and the rest of Europe. The distillery is
located in Carmona and is one of the oldest and most traditional distilleries
in Andalusia.
There are, currently, three gins on the market under the
Puerto de Indias brand, which was launched in the latter months of 2013; the
Black Edition, which we will go into more detail in a minute, a strawberry-flavoured
gin and the Classic, which, at an ABV of 37.5%, promises a more traditional flavour,
whatever that may mean. The Black Edition, the latest of their gins, was launched
in March 2016.
It takes as its inspiration, so says the inevitable
marketing blurb that seems to go hand-in-glove with gins these days, springtime
in Andalusia. So, we are warned to expect the gentle aromas of orange blossom
and citrus, mingled with strains of jasmine and vanilla. It is supposed to
conjure up a picture of the province at that time of year. However, we are
advised, it is not a flavoured gin and is aimed to appeal to the serious gin
and tonic lover. I tend to take this sort of drivel with a sip of gin.
Astonishingly, they were not wrong. Quite simply, this is
one of the finest gins I have ever tasted and has bulldozed its way into my
favourite handful of gins I have tasted. It is one to be savoured and kept for
those special occasions when you want to rise above the humdrum.
Removing the screwcap, a cork stopper would have really
finished this product off, my nostrils were greeted by the reassuring smell of pine,
courtesy of the juniper, and jasmine but there was also a distinctly floral overtone.
None were so overpowering as to hinder the others from getting a look in. In
the glass the spirit was crystal clear and in the mouth was a perfectly
balanced mix of spiciness, floral notes and citrus from the region’s oranges
and lemons. It made for a very smooth drink with enough astringency in the
aftertaste to remind you that you were drinking not only a gin but a high-class
gin.
It shows that you do not have to have to go too far off the
piste in terms of botanicals to produce a distinctive and thoroughly enjoyable
gin. Often less is more and simplicity is to be preferred over unnecessary
complexity. I’m sold.
Until the next time, cheers!
