Third Eye Burrito: How A Bassist And His Brother Built Dos Toros

Burrito Brothers: Leo And Oliver Kremer in New York.

On a chilly afternoon in New York’s Greenwich Village, Dos Toros on Carmine Street is doing its best Northern California impression. Sun streams through the wide windows, splashing light across a framed picture of Berkeley burrito haunt Gordo Taqueria as the strains of Bay Area band Third Eye Blind’s “Never Let You Go” blare over the speakers: “I remember the stupid things, the mood rings, the bracelets and the beads. …”

The California vibe...