Day 19: Every Face, Every Story #everydayadventure
Kaiserschmarrn: Austrian scrambled pancakes. I may not be able to pronounce it, but I ate three plates of it this morning. Topped with yogurt, homemade applesauce, and good conversation–kaiserschmarrn was the perfect start to another adventuresome day.
I took a tram to visit Palais Longchamp. I didn’t have any directions, but I got off at the Longchamp tram stop with the vague hope that I’d find the palace after wandering.
But palaces like this one aren’t meant to be found. The majestic palace towered above the other buildings, rightly demanding my full attention.
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Burning brightly above it all, the sun cast long shadows over the ancient boulders. Ornate rows of flowers graced the garden.
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Water rushed over three stone bowls. Isn’t there a verse about the sound of rushing water?
And behold, the glory of the God of Israel came from the way of the east. His voice was like the sound of many waters; and the earth shone with His glory. Ezekiel 43:2
Leaning against the railing near the fountain, I heard the sound of many waters, the pounding spray of a thousand drops: the sound of power and strength.
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When I visit places like this, I don’t rush. I walk slow, alone, memorizing every sound and feel of this fairytale I’ve stumbled into. At the top of the stairs, I looked up and around me, at the columns and rich design of the buildings. And I felt like Elizabeth touring Mr. Darcy’s home for the first time.
I have to admit that I twirled once, like I do randomly in empty grocery store aisles.
Behind the palace is an peaceful garden that stretches far out of view, crossing over streets of traffic below. I saw a closed off observatory building on one side. An old zoo added some almost-creepy color to the back end of the garden.
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Sitting on a park bench in the shade, I opened my notebook, but left my headphones in my bag. You don’t need music when you have the world to listen to.
In the gardens, boys and girls raced each other, their shoes kicking up bits of dirt and grass. Moms trail behind them, unwilling to step away from the trees shading them. The sprinklers burst on, extracting joyful squeals from the children.
A few hours later, I biked around Vieux Port. Under a huge mirror, four street performers climbed up on each other, shocking the crowd with their crazy gymnastics.
I didn’t mean to stop, but then they turned on a Spanish pop song I knew. I stood transfixed listening to Spanish lyrics while watching the performance in the reflection of the mirror.
Then I found an adorable marine-themed bookstore. Old golden-rimmed clocks hung against netting on the wall. There were maps, ships, small globes, and stacks of “adventure” books.
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Something about this bookstore reminded me of my dad. Maybe it was the old ships locked in glass cases. Or the folded sea maps. But of all the places I’ve been in Marseille, I think that my dad would love this port the best.
After visiting a soap store, I finally reached my destination: Le Musée du Savon: La Licorne. The soap museum! A chalkboard next to the door said 5 euros to make your own soap.
The museum was charming. There was a “guess the soap” game, a soap pyramid, and snippets of history about soap and soap making in Marseille. But best of all, in this quiet, calm corner of Vieux Port, I met kind, friendly people.
The owner, Michel Ceccaldi, showed a tourist family and me how to make our own soap and personalize. We started talking, and I found out that one of the daughters was a writer too.
Our shared passion for books and writing connected us immediately. We compared reading lists and our stories. When they left, the family hugged me goodbye.
I am constantly amazed at how quickly strangers can connect. I stayed awhile to talk with the owner. His joy and enthusiasm for life and for what he was doing was contagious.
I felt blessed to have met so many interesting people today. To have heard just a little bit of their stories. I won’t easily forget moments like this. As I walked back, I passed this:
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And I was reminded once again, that every face has a story, and if you stop long enough to listen, you might get a glimpse at who they are and the incredible life they’ve lived.
Today wasn’t just another adventure. It was a beautiful time, and even though I walked the city alone, I never felt lonely.


