The Overlook Hotel Times Twelve

One of my great regrets was not bringing a camera on my 1999 trip to the heart of the Greenland ice sheet. I was there doing a freelance piece on the Air National Guard unit responsible for resupplying polar scientific missions; we spent three days on the ice, learning how to survive in the event of a crash. (Rule Number One: if you see a polar bear, put your head between your knees and kiss your ass goodbye.)

The highlight of the trip was a snowmobile ride out to DYE-2, an abandoned American rad