Day 9: Neolithic Mysteries!
This morning, Cindy and I went into the village of Kirkwall for a short exploration on our own. We visited the lovely cathedral with its magnificent stained-glass windows. The interior gravestones are delightfully creepy with their depictions of bones. We also visited the ruins of the Earl’s palace and the bishop’s palace. These ancient stone bastions were not places of defense (there are no murder holes), just once-magnificent residences.
We returned to the ship with just enough time to have some delicious English-style fish-and-chips before heading back out for our port adventure to Orkney’s Neolithic heartland.
Once again, the rain disappeared before our tour. The winds howled at 30-40 mph, but that didn’t bother me—it only added to the atmosphere of desolation. We seem to keep getting perfect weather just for us. (Our dinner table-mates went on the same adventure in the morning, and they got soaked!) Our tour guide was excellent again. We have been truly blessed.
The Scots we’ve met have been, without exception, friendly and welcoming. We also learned what Scotsmen wear underneath the kilt. Did I mention the wind was blowing? Our tour-guide, Andy, said, “Well, that answers that question.”
The stone circles of Stenness and Brodgar predate Stonehenge! They are not as elaborate as Stonehenge, but they are much, much larger. The sandstone here tends to break very nicely into slate-like slabs, so the standing stones are tall, thin, flat, and irregularly shaped. One of them even had ancient Viking graffiti!
We visited an active archeological dig. The site was probably not a village, but rather an ancient temple or meeting place of some type. The site has been active for only ten years and they are barely getting started. It was very exciting.
Then there was the Neolithic village of Skara Brae. Unearthed by accident in the 18th century, the village is beautifully preserved. The roofs are gone, of course, but everything else was made of stone. All the buildings are connected with tunnels.
We know so little about these people. So many mysteries. I take great comfort from knowing that we don’t know everything (as I’ve mentioned before).
The Orkney Islands were under Viking control for centuries and almost all the street and village names here are Viking names. Folks around here are very proud of their Viking heritage. Even the flag of the Orkneys is very similar to the Norwegian flag.
This area was home to extremely important military installations during both world wars. This area was the first to be bombed, and the first to shoot down a German combat aircraft.
Tomorrow, Invergordon—Loch Ness and Culloden!
