THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING! NO, THEY’RE HERE!
And they are, in their thousands.
Signs outside cafes and restaurants in North Goa advertise menus and prices in Russian. While tourist numbers have declined from the UK, the number of Russian tourists has boomed. Taxi drivers, waiters and guides are learning Russian. Most Russians speak little or no English, and expect the locals to converse in Russian. The Indians can’t understand why they don’t learn some English. To be fair, some have a few words, but in restaurants, Russians look at menus, speak loudly in Russian and point to the dish they want. The Russians spend their days lying on sunbeds, drinking beer and rarely smiling.
My negotiation skills were needed again! I spoke to the owner of the apartments, and explained the problem. In fifteen minutes, my apartment was rearranged and transformed into an office.I took a taxi back to North Goa, and spent a week in the Albuquerque apartments in Candolim before flying to the UK. Once more, the apartment looked quite different from the Booking.com photo but I liked the complex. A pristine swimming pool, grass which was green, not burnt brown, white painted buildings and coconut trees! My apartment didn’t have a desk. How was I going to work? I should explain the purpose of staying here for a week was to finish the prequel to ‘The Hell Of Osirak.’
One day two I decided to walk to the beach at 10am, before it became too hot, this involved a 15-minute trudge in blazing hot sun. When I arrived pouring with sweat, I couldn’t find a free sun lounger! People lay on them, or had reserved them with towels. I walked for a few more minutes, and decided to head back to my air-conditioned apartment. I drunk two litres of water in 30 minutes, and I still felt dehydrated.
I don’t know how people can lie on the beach in that kind of humidity and heat. I can only describe it as wading through porridge with 50% of my normal energy. Temperatures soared from 11am until 4m, so I had no excuse not to stay in my apartment writing.
Half way through the week, I realised I hadn’t anything interesting to write about in the blog! So, I hired a taxi driver named Tiger and he drove me to the world heritage UNESCO site to view the churches and convents of Old Goa. I decided to head out early and arrived at 9.30am. Even at that time of the day, the heat beat down relentlessly as I wandered around. Trip Advisor members give Old Goa 5 star reviews, but I didn’t find it the churches particularly interesting although they date back to the 16th century when the Portuguese occupied Goa.
An hour later, I could feel the energy draining out of me and I collapsed in the shade of a tree waiting for the driver. We drove up to the Augustine Tower. This is the site of a convent, although it’s a ruin, but the heat! I struggled for another thirty minutes and headed back to the air-con car. I met an English woman, who had walked up a steep hill with no sunhat and no water. Mad dogs and Englishwoman!
The doctor at the retreat recommended I put coconut oil on my skin and hair after a shower and leave it to soak in overnight. Surprisingly I hadn’t managed to locate any oil in South Goa, but the manager of the apartments told me where to find some in Panjim, which is the capital of Goa. I managed to buy some there, and I headed back to Candolim.
That night, I followed the doctor’s instructions and covered myself in coconut oil. I hadn’t realised how strong the smell of coconut oil was, until I sat in a restaurant when a couple gave me odd looks and moved their chairs away!
My last few days in Goa dragged to a close. I was over the humidity, heat, dust, rubbish and poverty.
What did I find hard about travelling in India?
Seeing people, especially children living in appalling squalor and poverty. Malnourished animals living on the streets with nobody to care for them.
Would I visit India again?
I don’t think so. If I did, I wouldn’t travel solo.
Travelling to India has given me more confidence. I’ve coped with challenging situations well outside my comfort zone. I’ve learned how to meditate. I practise yoga. The back condition I suffered with for years has improved. My stress levels have diminished. I’ve come to terms with my long-term relationship ending. The thought of living alone no longer bothers me.
Thank you, India, – you really have changed my life.
Here are my top travels tips for India everything is negotiable, even pre-booked accommodation.
Always agree a price before getting into a tuk-tuk or a taxi.
