Above there is Heaven, below there is Suhang… 上有天堂, 下有苏杭

There is an old Chinese saying that every Chinese person knows: "上有天堂, 下有苏杭". This means "Above there is Heaven, below there is Suhang (Suzhou and Hangzhou)." (my translation). In other words, Suzhou and Hangzhou are heaven on earth. Um… I'm not so sure. Suzhou lies west of Shanghai, about 45 minutes by train, and it has been called "The Venice of the East". Let's be honest, it just doesn't compare, even if it is an attractive place. Lots of canals, water, and old houses. But the Venetian atmosphere and magic isn't there. As for Hangzhou, where I have just spent two weeks, it has become one of the most expensive places in China in terms of real estate. This is due to the presence of its West Lake (Xi Hu - 西湖), which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO only a few weeks ago. I'm not sure why. The lake is pretty, but not that amazing. Lots of lotus flowers. And lots of cars. Too many, in fact. There is a road that goes around the lake and which, to me, destroys the atmosphere. If you want to walk around the lake, you have to do so next to the road, which is very unpleasant. There are wooden boardwalks, but they are insufficient and crowded. The western side of the lake is more interesting, with small villages, tea culture and (somewhat) less cars. A more interesting place in Hangzhou, however, is the wetlands (Xi Xi Shi Di – 西溪国家湿地公园). They are in the middle of the city, and beautifully preserved: a maze of lakes and swampy areas, with meandering footpaths between them. You can also take a barge trip. Lots of birds and animals, and a world away from busy Hangzhou…