Monte Gorzano, the highest point in Lazio

For most people outside Italy, Lazio is better known as one of Rome’s two football teams: fierce rivals, and the Liverpool to Roma’s Everton (or at the risk of offending anyone Liverpudlian or Roman, the Everton to Roma’s Liverpool). For English fans, it’s the team Paul Gascoigne played for in the 1990s. I sometimes wonder how he settled in. I’m a little slow learning Italian, and I had a head start over Gazza in that at least I arrived being able to speak English.

More generally, Lazio is th...