Good Eats: Shopsin's General Store, NYC

Shopsin's General Store   120 Essex St./betw. Rivington & Delancey sts., in Essex Street Market at southwest end, stall #16, (212) 924-5160.  W-Sat 9am-2pm, Sun 10am-2pm; $$-$$$.  No reservations.  Cash only.  A while back at the Jewish Film Festival in San Francisco I happened to see a quirky little film titled “I Like Killing Flies,” which was about this very small NYC coffee shop with a very large menu (and many vegetarian options).  My daughter lived around the corner of the second location on Bedford Street, so we had a blast visiting the restaurant in person, even though it wasn’t at the same location as in the movie.  Owner Kenny hid there in the tiny kitchen, irritated to be recognized and asked for an autograph (you need to see the movie to understand how he cooks such a gigantic menu in such a small space).  Now, at his third location, he usually still enforces the rules like something right out of a Seinfeld episode (think soup nazi):  no talking on cell phones (I did get away with keeping my phone out on silent to take pictures--this former no-no seems to be ok now--but I did also get looks from the waiter); no groups larger than four; minimum one meal per person; no outside beverages; no substitutions; no take-out.  Bottom line is portions are huge and the food is always exceptional, but don’t you be in a hurry.
interior at Shopsin's in NYC
interior at Shopsin's in NYC
About that menu with 900+ items--study my photo of the menu before you dine here, and try to at least come close to knowing what you want to order.  Remember, people line up and wait a long time to get in, so you are taking up prime NYC real estate.  And don’t forget your reading glasses--the menu is squeezed onto two sides of a legal size page.
menu at Shopsin's in NYC
But when ordering, it’s hard to go wrong.  Last time, I had the spectacularly delicious vegetarian #N, the Jaffa sandwich, which is really a gyro with crispy chickpea curry fritters, avocado, and tahina sauce.  Soooo good.
Jaffa sandwich at Shopsin's in NYC
buttermilk biscuit with fried artichoke hearts at Shopsin's in NYC
scrambled eggs at Shopsin's in NYC
I hear the mac ‘n cheese pancakes, chocolate ebleskivers/aebleskivers, or blisters on my sisters (I haven’t been able to figure out just exactly what this is) are all highly recommended.  And then there are "Wiggly Pete" with jalapeno-infused crispy cheese on top of garlic bread, Huevos Rancheros with extremely flavorful Short Ribs, and the monster Cap N J--panko-coated fried chicken on scrambled eggs inside two mac ‘n cheese pancakes.  Next time I’m trying the S'more milkshake and ordering another side of the super-good cheese grits.  
cheese grits at Shopsin's in NYC
Portions are generous.  And there is plenty of attitude.  The staff is quintessentially New York, with little interest in explaining the menu or offering recommendations--and people do get thrown out.  All this plus a rack of seven different hot sauces,
hot sauce selection at Shopsin's in NYC
and our 2-year-old was provided with a high chair and given an animal figurine to entertain her and to keep as a souvenir.
child in highchair at Shopsin's in NYC
child with Toas-tite cheese sandwich at Shopsin's in NYC


The indoor Essex Street Market was constructed in the 1940s.  It is a public market made up of many smaller merchants from around the world who specialize in gourmet cheeses, premium cuts of meat, fresh fish, and general grocery items.
exterior of Essex Street Market in NYC

produce shop at Essex Street Market in NYC

Goya canned pigeon peas at Essex Street Market in NYC

homemade desserts at Essex Street Market in NYC

juice to cure what ails you at Essex Street Market in NYC
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images ©2016 Carole Terwilliger Meyers