Strange days in strange lands

It is 18 July 2001 and the moment that I have been anticipating for two years is finally at hand. I am about to step out of the plane and enter the land of the free and the home of the brave. I and my friend A.R. are greeted by a sunny summer afternoon at Boston's Logan airport. Customs are a breeze and it's onto the main lobby where after much juggling of quarters, dimes and nickels we finally