March 18, 2011: The Meal To End All Meals!

March 17, 2011: Gaaaaah! March 19, 2011: Travel Day! Actually,...

March 18, 2011: The Meal To End All Meals!

I remember when I first started watching Iron Chef (the original Japanese version), being mightily impressed with the creativity and effort that went into the various dishes. I would sit back on my couch and envy the lucky judges who were granted the opportunity to sample the varied culinary masterpieces. And I'd think: "Wouldn't it be great to be able to go to a restaurant that would serve up dishes that brazenly ingenious?". Sure, I'd frequented restaurants that would offer the occasional intriguing menu item – braised ox-tails, chocolate-port reductions, and almond foams – but these delights were a rarity.

And then, one day, I happened across a place called Fuel. And my prayers were answered. Finally, a restaurant that served food that was not only inventive and adventurous but delicious as well! In no time, it became my home away from home. In fact, back in the day, I ate more dinners at Fuel than I did in my own house.

Alas, times change. I lost two of my longtime dinner companions and began to eat out less and less while Fuel reinvented itself, shifting effortlessly from fine dining to more casual dining. Rechristened Refuel, it didn't miss a beat, continuing to serve up creative, quality plates like no other restaurant in the city.

Over the course of my many, many meals at Fuel (and Refuel), I developed quite a relationship with the gang (co-owners Tom Doughty and Chef Robert Belcham, and the rest of the kitchen crew led by the incomparable Chef Ted). I greatly appreciated their work in the kitchen, their willingness to be inventive with their cuisine, and they appreciated my appreciation, serving me some of the most amazing dishes I've ever had in ways I've never seen before and since outside of Fuel/Refuel. I attended their first Whole Hog Dinner, was one of the first to sample their crispy duck confit, enjoyed a whole crispy confit pig's head served tableside, got to try one-time-only culinary marvels like shaved pig's with black truffles. And, every year, since moving the venue out of my house, Fuel/Refuel has served as the location for my annual chocolate party, prepping and serving up some incredible multi-course meals for my 40+ guests before coordinating the chocolate rush.

Like I said – this place was my home away from home, and the people who worked there became my friends. And so, when Tom learned I was leaving town for Toronto, he suggested I come by for one final blow-out meal. The meal to end all meals!

Apparently, Tom, Chef Rob, Chef Ted, and the entire staff at Refuel spent weeks devising the menu, sourcing ingredients, and doing test runs in anticipation of the big night. The results?

Without a doubt, it WAS – THE MEAL TO END ALL MEALS! Let me tell you about it…

My dining companion on this special night was my fellow foodie (and fellow Refuel-enthusiast) Denise. We arrived at 6:30 p.m. and were ushered over to one of the restaurant's big center tables that usually seats about eight. Turns out, we would need all that extra room.

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Tom Doughty and his "You won't believe what we have in store for you" smile.

Chef Rob Belcham and HIS "Hope you're hungry!" grin.

Tom asked us if we wanted to start with a cocktail. I elected to go with my favorite -

The Moscow Mule! And check it out! Served in a copper mug! To date, Refuel is the only establishment outside of Tokyo that serves it so!

As much as I enjoyed my drink, I was itching to get started. And so, I gave Tom the signal.

And the culinary extravaganza began. Dish #1: Acadian Caviar – traditional service – and blinis cooked tableside by Tom himself.

Chopped egg yolk, shallot, egg whites, chives, and creme fraiche. My preferred combination was the chopped egg whites and chives - both subtle enough not to overshadow the...

Acadian Caviar that was surprisingly good. Missed a little bit of the pop of, say, the Osetra, but possessed of a rich, almost nutty flavor. Great. Especially since it came with a show...

Tom make buckwheat blinis.

Et voila!

Tom broke out the fine dishes for this special night. They went all out for us!

Next up was Dish#2, a one bite…

Red Sea Urchin with giant radish, green chili, and lemon. The sweetness of a light syrup married beautifully with the natural sweetness of the sea urchin.

Tom and co. pulled out all the stops for this special evening including…

The fine cutlery.

Apparently from his personal family collection. Gorgeous, no?

Dish #3…

Weathervane Scallop 3 Ways: sashimi, crispy mantle, and "gomashio". The sashimi was sweet and delicate, a sign of absolute freshness. I discard the mantle when I eat scallop because it's usually too tough to eat but here, lightly fried, it was ethereal and utterly divine. I could have eaten a bowlful! And, finally, the gomashio, was the perfect capper to the trio - the coral/roe was rich and savory.

Dish #4…

Beetroot Veloute with lardo and thick cream. The thin layer of lardo was a transparent skin atop the cool, tasty veloute.

Dish #5…

Hot Spring Egg with dungeness crab and broccoli rabe. This was one of my favorites. The different elements of this dish came together beautifully. It's topped with a mind-blowing lobster brain foam.

Dish #6…

Ravioli alla Carbonara - with pig's brain...

And black truffle!

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Tom shaves.

A very generous topping! Earthy, aromatic, and toothsome.

Dish #7…

"Pushed" Foie Gras with toasted bread and maldon salt. The look and texture of ground beef tartare is achieved by passing the foie through a fine mesh (Tom named the implement but I don't recall what it is), lending it an even greater mouth-melting quality.

Dish #8…

Slow Roasted Steelhead Belly with aromatics and finger lime, cooked on a rock with steam bath. Without a doubt, the best smelling dish we were served - a heady mix of coriander, lemongrass, galangal, and holy basil. I've never tasted trout so good.

Dish #9…

Wild sturgeon...

With Sauce Chateau Chalon. The sturgeon was good, possessed of a firm, almost meat-like texture, but the real star here was the velvet, spoonworthy sauce.

Dish #10. Okay, watching this one was a lot of fun…

Consomme Saignant (literally: Bleeding Consomme - Yes, you guessed one of the not-so-secret ingredents).

Nose to Tail Meatballs.

One of the most robust and intense cosommes I've enjoyed. Loved the meatballs.

Dish #11…

Paprikash-Stuffed Crispy Chicken Wing with creme fraiche. The wing was deboned and stuffed with an offal paprikash. Crispy chicken skin outsidel; delicious livers, hearts, and gizzard inside!

We enjoyed a glass of one of the only red wines I thoroughly enjoy…

A Three Barrel Merlot from the Montagu Cellars Winery.

And the owner of the Montagu Cellars Winery: Tom Doughty.

Next up was Dish #12: The Lamb Neck "Kakuni" with oroshi daikon and foie gras. The broth was poured tableside…

The neck was very tender, requiring only the slightest of nudges to come apart. A perfect match to the daikon and foie. Again, the broth was wonderfully flavorful.

Dish #13…

Beef Deckle Chop with BBQ sauce and white bread! Best BBQ ever!

We were slowing down, so Chef Rob came by to cheer us on. "EAT!!!"

Check out this luxuriantly marbled cap.

Dish #14…

Pierre Robert Cheese with soft herbs and crystalized textures. Some really nice taste and textural contrasts offered by the soft cheese, bread crumbs, hazelnuts, chives, parsley, and tarragon.

Dish #15…

Chocolate Consomme with Pistachio Sorbet. How the hell do you make chocolate consomme? I didn't get to find out but I'd love to know because even though it looks light, it was fairly bursting with intense chocolate richness. The pistachio sorbet was silky smooth and terrific.

Dish #16…

Chocolate Lollipop - white chocolate with liquid caramel. We were instructed to just pop it in our mouths and chew.

THIS was an impressive creation. The chocolate exterior was thin and melted instantly with the caramel liquid interior that was neither thick nor cloying but surprisingly refreshing!

Dish #17…

Peanut Butter Panna Cotta. My next favorite dessert ingredient after chocolate and pistachio = peanut butter. On this night, we covered all the bases in grand, delicious style!

Dish #18. Well, let's let the pics and videos do the talking here.

They begin by clearing everything off the table. And I mean everything. I was even cautioned to clear off my cell phone. Then, this was set down.

An impressive array of ingredients were lined up, everything from chocolate mousse and syrup to honeycombed caramel.

Chef Ted, torch in hand, prepares to administer the coup de grace.

The results…

Tom admitted to having gotten carried away and cautioned us against pushing ourselves. Well, we didn't finish but we certainly put a dent in this piece of dessert art.

Dish #19…

More Dessert! Hand-crafted chocolates, nougats, macarons! AND a couple of giant macarons Denise brought along because, clearly, she assumed the gang would forget to serve dessert!

It was almost 10:30 p.m. by the time we finished. That's a four hour 19-course culinary marathon! And the pics, videos, and descriptions don't do it justice. I can honestly say that I have never so thoroughly enjoyed a meal.

I can't think of a single thing that would have made it better. Actually, one. And they almost pulled it off. Tom had arranged for my former culinary wingman, Martin Gero, to come down for the big event. The plan was to surprise me by having him already seated when I walked in. Apparently, Martin had gone as far as to book a ticket but, unfortunately, had to cancel at the last minute. Still, what a great gesture.

And, finally, when I asked for the bill, this is what I received instead…