Jennie Goutet's Blog: A Lady in France, page 10
April 17, 2017
Visiting Vaux-le-Vicomte
Vaux-le-Vicomte is pronounced “voe (like woe is me, but with a v) – le-veekont“. You want to make the o a tight little sound, like that of a disapproving old lady. Vicomte, of course, means viscount, which, in English, is correctly pronounced vie (like fee fie fo fum kind of fie, but with a v) – count. (Not vis-count, like it’s spelled). Just in case you care about these sorts of things.
It took quite a bit of sleuthing, in both French and English, to figure out why the place is called Vaux-le-Vicomte, and the answer finally came when I was staring at the genealogical tree of Nicolas Fouquet, who “created” Vaux-le-Vicomte in 1641. He was the viscount (vicomte) of Vaux (thus, Vaux-le-Vicomte) and Vicomte of Melun, as well as the Marquis of Belle-Isle, the Lord of Maincy (where the château is situated), and – this is important – the superintendent of royal finances.
The most important thing you need to know about Vaux-le-Vicomte is that it inspired Versailles, even if it was done in a fit of jealousy. Fouquet bought the manor and small castle in Vaux because it was strategically situated between the two royal residences of Fontainebleau and Vincennes. He then spent 20 years using his considerable wealth (and how much of it came from the king’s coffers was the question du jour) to transform the estate into what it is today.
What’s most remarkable is that this is not a hodgepodge of architects doing add-ons over the centuries. He concentrated his efforts over 20 years and employed Louis Le Vau, the first architect of the king, Charles Le Brun, a celebrated painter, and André Le Notre (or Nostre), the royal gardener and had them work in sync to create something harmonious. The end-result is just that. Here are a few pictures that show the architecture. From the front:
From the back:
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From the side:
A close-up of the glass doors.
The vista (with the golden Hercules statue in the distance):
More of this round marble room.
It contains the busts of famous Roman politicians.
Here are some of the paintings and the tapestries.
I love details like this painted strip next to the geometric, hand-blown window panes.
Such artistry – a painter hired just to paint and coordinate all this! Although I don’t know how much of this is the original. I’m guessing the stuff painted on the walls and ceilings is original, but anything not tacked on was whisked away in Louis XIV’s fury at being upstaged.
Here are some pictures of the garden.
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(the stables)
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Oh, and let me not forget to tell you about the carriage museum, which is in part of the stables. Very interesting, especially if you like Regency because you get to see a lot of those carriages close up.
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We didn’t make it over to the statue of Hercules at Rest because we didn’t have time to walk around the canal. It’s worth it to rent the golf carts, available for the purpose of visiting the extensive gardens if you don’t have time and energy to go on foot.
And here are a couple more shots from the interior of the chateau.
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I love old floors.
The game room:
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The necessary:
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The kitchen:
which is next to the dungeon. They have this cheerful fellow stationed here because he was once a real prisoner. The Man With the Iron Mask by Alexandre Dumas was inspired by a mysterious prisoner who stayed here, whose face was never shown, even upon death. He was probably the illegitimate son of a king who posed a threat to his crown (my guess).
And that sort of brings us back to our story of Fouquet. On August 17, 1661, Fouquet had the unhappy idea of inviting Louis XIV to see his finished creation – the overwhelming splendour that was Vaux-le-Vicomte. The furious Sun King didn’t stay past dinner, and before he was back at the royal residence, he had already made plans to have Fouquet arrested for siphoning royal funds.
The trial lasted three years.
Those in favour of banishment outnumbered those in favour of death, but the king couldn’t bear to think of this offender living freely in another country so he had him imprisoned for life, which lasted for about 20 more years.
Louis XIV then had Versailles built. Like Vaux … only better.
Madame Fouquet was allowed to keep her château, though it took her ten years to recover the estate. All the paintings, tapestries, even the orange trees were requisitioned by the king and I’m not sure if she got any of that back. She finally sold the estate in 1705 on the death of her son.
Marshal de Villars held the château and passed it on to his son, who sold it to Duc de Praslin in 1764. The duke’s family held it for more than a century and it was auctioned off in 1875 to Alfred Sommier,a sugar magnate, who took over its restoration. His son Edme died without having children and the estate passed to his sister, Lucie de Vogué’s son, Jean de Vogué.
He is handsome, is he not? (If a bit severe). And Jean passed it on to his son, Patrice, who married Christina, and it is now in the hands of their three sons, Ascanio, Jean-Charles, and Alexandre de Vogué who own the château, but open it for the public. When you tour the château, you see personal touches, like these framed photos, that remind you that this is not just a museum, but a family home in the not-so-distant past.
Châteaux are always best when there’s a bit of life to them, wouldn’t you say?
Clowns!
I got most of my information directly from the website and from signs posted at the château, but I scouted around other sites trying to verify facts or clarify the history as I understood it. If you like this post, check out my FRANCE tourism page to read about other places we’ve visited in France.
Hey guys, I want to tell you about two memoirs that have just come out (or are on pre-order) because they both have to do with France and are really good! Both are sequels, and if you’re a francophile, I think you’ll like them (the original and the sequel).
The first is by Samantha Vérant, author of Seven Letters From Paris.
Here’s my review:
This is the second book I’ve read by Samantha Vérant and my conclusion is : to know Samantha is to love her. I found this book touching. I loved the first one, but there was something about the sequel (can you say that for a memoir?) that I connected to more deeply. Maybe it was the struggles she faced in adapting to a new culture, which is something I can relate to. Perhaps it was the particular trials she faced pertaining to motherhood that many of us have faced, no matter what country we live in. I think it was the vulnerable humor with which she seasoned the strange pot-au-feu kind of life she found her self plunked into, and the way she let it simmer until the flavours produced something divine.
P.S. Recipes in each section not to be missed (seriously).
P.P.S. I was given an advance copy via NetGalley; the opinions are mine.
P.P.P.S. Max you earned your 200 bucks. I’m not sure it’ll work a second time though. 
April 5, 2017
Seeking Beauty (and sanity)
We’ve made some headway on our stalled construction. I went searching through the archives for photos to remind you of what our house has looked like for the past year, and I found one that I posted on my blog and a couple on Instagram. (If you’re reading this from your e-mail and want to see the Instagram photos, you have to click over to the blog).
This was the ceiling of the guest room right at the beginning of the water infiltration.
Here’s a view from the opposite side of the room where you see some paint peeling on the left-hand side. The rest is obscured by the wall.
A post shared by Jennie Goutet (@aladyinfrance) on Jan 19, 2017 at 6:24am PST
And this is what the ceiling looked like – with the water damage and the workers putting their foot through the floor upstairs. This doesn’t even show half of it between the mould that took over and the paint that “dripped” off the ceiling and walls. 
The wall is gone and the space is painted. I’m searching for a second-hand buffet that can stretch along the back wall without taking up too much space. We’ll need it because we’re getting rid of some Ikea cupboards.
So the space is missing a buffet, some paintings, curtains, track lighting (that’s centered), and of course the couch and boxes have to go, but it’s infinitely cleaner, isn’t it? 
Then there’s the kitchen. The wall was so humid, the hotte (I don’t know what that’s called in English) fell right off the wall and shattered in pieces.
A post shared by Jennie Goutet (@aladyinfrance) on Apr 17, 2016 at 4:18am PDT
Now we have a clean, painted kitchen with a new hotte (need to remove the blue plastic). We’ve taken down the cupboards and had them clean up the mould and repaint before putting the cupboards back up, and we’re waiting for the tiles to arrive for the backsplash. Looking at how pink the wall was before, I regret that I went towards lavender this time around. And it’s so light you almost don’t see it.
Besides that, I’m painting the cupboard doors, but the Ikea paint primer must have some sort of shellack because the paint is not sticking! So I’m not very happy about that. All this work and I think I’m going to have to go back and sand them all.
But here is our kitchen now without the cupboard doors.
Here’s our living space before the hole was put in for stairs (which they were not able to finish so the hole has been there for a year).
March 23, 2017
Busy
Sometimes I feel like other bloggers who write about expat life in France are less busy than I am. Or is it just my imagination? Life for them meanders by on a gently-flowing stream, whereas mine feels like it’s being heaved from the end of a catapult.
Although I’m tempted to blame life, I suspect it’s my own fault. I’m a magnet for busyness.
This weekend was no exception. For the past couple of weeks, I’d been working on our church’s annual Women’s Day. I’m usually the one responsible for the skit – writing and directing it – and baking for the tea that follows. This weekend I also had my daughter dancing.
On top of that, my son was participating in a national trumpet competition in Toulouse this same weekend, so my husband took both boys there. And two days before they left, the new workers we’d hired called to say they were ready to start the following day (which I said ‘no, not until after the weekend’ because I haven’t lost my mind completely).
The competition was great, even if Gabriel was nervous and played a little fast and fudged quite a few notes. He was still competing in an age-range above his own, and he still got a 2nd mention and finished with a score of 16 out of 20. However, he asked me not to make the video public because he’s not comfortable with the way he played. He’ll need to play the same piece for an independent jury in our home conservatory in a few weeks and if he does well, I’ll record it then and post it for you to hear.
The Women’s Day was fabulous. The theme was DANCE IN THE RAIN – how to keep one’s perspective in the midst of life’s storms. We had a main speaker from Dubai, who spent most of her adult life in India, as well as two local women who shared about their lives. Reine shared from the perspective of struggling with infertility in the African culture (where it’s not well-perceived) only to finish with getting pregnant and finding out her son was handicapped. She shared about the struggle, but also about the joys she has found in her situation. Laurence shared about how she lost her husband (he decided to divorce her), her job (which gave her immense satisfaction), and her health (she had breast cancer) all in the same year, and how (despite how hard it was) she wouldn’t have changed for anything the spiritual growth and closeness to God she gleaned as a result.
Interspersed was my skit, a mother-daughter duet, the African sisters performing a dance where they got the whole room up and moving, and my daughter and her friend dancing classical ballet – a piece they had choreographed themselves. We finished the day by eating all the pastries the women had made.
I’m going to put the video of the dance my daughter did at the bottom of the post. But first, here are some pictures. I’m sorry to say that some of them are likely to be upside down or sideways if you’re reading this from an e-mail because I uploaded them directly from my phone. In my experience, I’ll correct it and it works for the post, but not for the e-mail. I have no idea why. If you want to see the pictures properly, however, just click on over. 
March 13, 2017
A Basket of Prayers
I don’t know why, but I have this image that my prayer list is like a basket that gets filled up until there’s no more room for any other worries or concerns. Once the basket gets filled, that’s that.
I’m pretty sensitive, so the things I feel compelled to pray about are fished from various streams, and the basket gets quickly filled to overflowing.
The worries close to home always come first – illness or a safety threat to anyone in my family, my writing projects, our finances, my husband’s job, the running around for the kids’ school and activities, our family nutrition plan, (which ebbs and flows in effectiveness), the need to search for alternate ways to restore our home since our contractor, Jesus, seems to have left us for good. (Seriously. I don’t think there’s going to be a resurrection).
Next comes the wider circle of church family and friends, and those prayers offered up for people’s jobs, apartments, health, the health of their loved ones – you know, because when you love someone, you care about their people too. There are the church activities, such as the kids classes and pre-teen and teen camps, the Bible studies, discussion groups, house churches – those prayers that God moves within us as we get busy, and that we’re not just running around being busy.
Believe it or not, but my Internet people who I met through blog and Facebook form a community and I pray for them too. People who are waiting for an organ donor, whose neighbours are suffering, who are going through cancer, who need a job, an apartment, who are rejected for one aspect of their humanness or another – the list goes on. Just throw them all in the basket! The prayers, not the people.
Beyond that is our local community, government, and world concerns. In our case we have two governments to pray for and there is no shortage of issues (especially lately) that cause anxiety and provoke an increased need for prayer. Beyond that are the wars and the threats of wars, the acts of terrorism and its victims, the refugees that are flooding Europe.
And just today I read about the famine victims in this article, located in East Africa where we used to live. It says that 20 million people face death through starvation, and that the UN needs to raise $4.4 billion by July to prevent that from happening. 20 million people.
20 million people. Dying because there’s not enough to eat.
My first thought is to give, and if that’s yours too, here’s an article with some ideas of where your money might be most effective. And of course I throw that on top of my basket of prayer too, and I do it because I truly believe prayer to be effective. When something is so daunting and tragic, what can I do but pray? I’ve seen its effectiveness. I’ve witnessed one too many miracle ever to doubt again. So let me praaaaaaay.
But somewhere in the course of all these worries, the basket starts to get heavy. My prayer list gets long, and just looking at it in the morning makes me want to go back to bed.
I realized this the other day when I took one look at my list and sighed. I focused on everything that was not going right and felt like giving up before I started. Instead of giving it all over to God in a “cast your anxiety on him because he cares for you” kind of way, I was holding on to my basket.
I do that. I hold on to my list and feel like by faithfully praying through each one, I’m going to make it happen. It’s all up to me, folks. If I pray for you; everything will be alright. I’ve got this. It’s like thinking by staying awake on the plane for 13 hours, I’m going to keep it from crashing.
Not only is it ridiculous, this way of thinking is idolatrous too, don’t you think? (By my own strength, I will … )
Because in the end it’s God who carries the basket. Oh, I can hold on to it, alright. Sure! Why not? I can hold on to my list of prayers and faithfully go through each one on the list, and all that is good. But when the prayer list becomes burdensome, that’s when I know I’m not going in the right direction.
That’s what happened last week. I realized I was straining to lift this ever-increasing list of prayers before him. I was groaning under the weight of the increasing basket of needs. And faithfully sorting and offering each prayer was causing me to feel its weight doubly so. I was more anxious after praying, not less!
But God doesn’t say to carry the basket of prayers up to him. He doesn’t say to groan under its weight. He says to cast our anxieties on God. Throw them. One by one. One wiggly little fish of a prayer after another until the basket has nothing left and God is carrying its entire contents in his capable hands.
God has got it, my friends. He’s not worried about how it’s all going to work out. He thought of the solution before the problem appeared. And he cares about you.
He cares about the sparrow that hops from tree to tree. Does he not care even more about those who, whether for themselves or their loved ones, are frightened by how fragile life is? He created the splendid flowers of the field that are here today, and tomorrow are thrown into the fire. Can he not handle something as simple as providing an apartment for a family who needs it, or a job for the person who is nearing the end of her savings? He feeds and cares for the birds of the air who do not sow or reap or store away in barns. Does he not also care about the 20 million people who do not have enough to eat?
Pray. Of course, pray! But remember who you’re praying to. And cast your anxiety on Him.
Rejoice always, pray continually, give thanks in all circumstances; for this is God’s will for you in Christ Jesus. 1 Thessalonians 5:16-18
Is anyone among you in trouble? Let them pray. Is anyone happy? Let them sing songs of praise. James 5:13
For the eyes of the Lord are on the righteous and his ears are attentive to their prayer, 1 Peter 3:12
Do not be anxious about anything, but in every situation, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God Philippians 4:6
Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you. 1 Peter 5:7
The post A Basket of Prayers appeared first on A Lady In France.
March 8, 2017
Something Cheerful
Hi folks. This is a short and sweet post, mostly to get my groove back because I haven’t felt like writing lately. I don’t know about where you are, but here it’s rainy, gray, and cold, and the gloom has threatened to steal all my words.
Of course, once I started this post, I remembered that I have a leg of lamb recipe to put up. And I’d promised Part 2 of the nutritionist’s plan (which includes a family plan that might be interesting to some of you). But I need to say something about that first.
Since June, I’ve gone to the nutritionist once a month or every 6 weeks, and I’d lost a total of 13 kilos, which is like 25 lbs. Actually it’s almost 29 lbs. With each visit, I only ever stayed the same or lost weight – I had not gained anything.
Until this last visit. (sigh). I gained back 2 kilos from stress eating. So anyway, I want to write a follow-up post on the nutritionist because she has such good, solid advice, but I also want to get back on track and feel like I can share that victory too. I’m determined to remember that only regaining weight once since June is not so very bad. Plus, the nutritionist encouraged me that weight gained quickly is also lost quickly, so I’m holding on to that.
So nutritionist post, leg of lamb … I’m also still working on my Regency novel. I have my friend giving me amazing edits on my first draft. I am thrilled. She hands the manuscript back to me full of red ink, and I know her suggestions are going to improve it beyond recognition.
In the meantime, here are a couple of things from Instagram that have made me happy lately.
My morning cup of coffee.
I wish every meal were breakfast. #coffeelover
A post shared by Jennie Goutet (@aladyinfrance) on Feb 26, 2017 at 10:49pm PST
This little spot with my flowering plum tree
A post shared by Jennie Goutet (@aladyinfrance) on Mar 5, 2017 at 8:25am PST
and another view from this angle.
This little corner of my world makes me happy. #mygarden
A post shared by Jennie Goutet (@aladyinfrance) on Mar 8, 2017 at 2:09am PST
Then there’s this cheerful image that makes me want to run right out and bake. Or visit Paris, or something.
Finally there’s this quote, which I actually feel like I’m living out now that I’m in my forties. And that makes me feel so happy.
How about you? What’s new?
The post Something Cheerful appeared first on A Lady In France.
March 1, 2017
French Lemon Tart with gluten-free crust
This is not the first time I’ve posted a recipe of a French lemon tart, and in fact this recipe – right down to its gluten-free crust – is an exact replica of my first lemon tart post. The difference is that I’m showing you an end result that is as pleasing visually as it is gastronomically. The first lemon tart was delicious, but between my using a pan that was too small so that the lemon filling spilled over on the stove and the unsuccessful attempt at removing the finished product from the pan, the end-result was not likely to make everyone rush right out and try and make a lemon tart.
You, however, should totally rush right out to make a lemon tart because it is that good. I’ve had french people tell me they don’t usually like lemon tarts, but they like this one; and they’ve also said they were surprised to learn I hadn’t bought it in a patisserie.
(Ha! polishes nails)
Okay, the thing is, you can make this crust with gluten-free flour or regular flour. It will work well with both. However, this is one tart that I wouldn’t make with a pre-made crust because the salty-sweet flavor in the crust is what sets off the lemon flavor to perfection. For gluten-free flours, if you’re not familiar, I like Bob’s Red Mill GF flour mix in the US, the Dove brand in the UK, and Schar in Germany and France. I made mine with Dove’s fiber GF flour mix, which is why it’s brown. I figured it would work well in this recipe, and it did. You can make it with white, of course.
Pre-heat the oven to 350°F, or if your oven heats overly well (like mine) 325°. Then put the crust ingredients in the cuisinant: 2.5 cups flour, 1/2c butter, 1/3c ground almonds, an egg, a heaping 1/2 cup confectioner sugar, a scant teaspoon of large grain sea salt (this is important if you can get it – if not, use a half-teaspoon of regular salt).
Mix it up and add a tablespoon of water (if needed) to form a ball. Place the dough on a large piece of wax paper and sprinkle some more flour – whatever type you used – on top. I also like to roll gluten-free crust by placing another piece of wax paper on top so that it doesn’t stick to the rolling pin. Here it is.
The great thing about having the wax paper underneath is that you can slide it right on to the pan. I used a 25 centimetre quiche pan with pretty deep sides. You’ll want to cut off the extra crust, then cut the wax paper so it’s no longer than the sides of the pan.
A word about the extra crust. It actually makes quite a bit extra, and you could re-roll it and put it on the bottom of a smaller pie pan and make a simple apple tart, recipe here.
Prick the bottom with a fork and put it in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Check that it’s cooked, but not overly brown.
Let it cool for an hour, then prepare the crust ingredients. You’ll need the zest of four lemons.
Whisk 4 whole eggs and 4 egg yolks. It’s better that they’re room temperature so that when you add the melted butter, it doesn’t congeal. To the eggs, add the zest, 3/4 cup freshly-squeezed lemon juice – for me this was the four large lemons pictured here – 1 and 1/3 cup sugar and 3.5 oz melted butter. I added the butter last and mixed it all together.
Place the pan on a baking sheet since the filling is so runny. You want to handle it without risking a spill.
Then you’d best cover the exposed crust with aluminum foil because you don’t want it to burn while the filling cooks.
Put the tart in the oven for at least 20 minutes. I had the heat on low – barely 325°C because the last time my tart burned, and the total cook time was closer to 35 minutes. I also turned the tart at least one to ensure that it cooked evenly. The filling should not be runny at all when you gently shake the pan. This is what it looks like when it comes out.
When it’s fully cooled, sprinkle confectioner sugar on top.
And there you have your lemon tart. It’s good – oh, so good.
Eat it warm, eat it cold, eat it with coffee, eat it with tea … no matter!
Just eat it.
February 27, 2017
Visiting the Château de Fontainebleau
What’s remarkable about the Château de Fontainebleau is that both kings and emperors have lived here. The Capétien, Valois, Bourbon dynasties, the two Napoleons, and (in between) the Orléans have all resided here. The palace is a representative of French architecture from the 12th through 19th century, and we got to visit it last fall. (I am only now getting around to this post.)
I had no idea how cool Fontainebleau was. I’ve been to the forest several times and never thought much of the château. I guess I assumed it was a shell of a museum without much to look at inside. Boy, was I wrong!
The simplest way to get there is to drive. However, you can take the Transilien Line R from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (direction Montargis). Then you need to take the bus – Ligne 1 (in the direction of Les Lilas). Three stops later, you’re there. The château is in the center of the very charming town of … (you guessed it) Fontainebleau!
To access the château you enter through the garden from the city streets in the center of town.
You follow the path until you get to the cobblestone courtyard, and then …
Wow! I can’t even get the entire château in the picture.
(Okay, I could if I backed up, but the rooms along the courtyard extend on both sides).
To give you a little history, the first part of the château was built in the form of a massive square in 1137 , the year when Louis VII, the Younger became king. The central tower dates from this period. In 1169, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Becket, consecrated the chapel. Then, during the Renaissance period under the Valois kings, the rooms overlooking the courtyard were built and Italian artists embellished the interior. I’ll show you some of that magnificence in a minute.
François le 1er loved to spend time at Fontainebleau and his heir, Jacques V (future king of Scotland) was born there in 1536. Queen Catherine Medici had 6 of her children there, and François II was baptised in the chapel. When it comes to French royalty, you definitely think of the Louvre as a former palace, and Versailles. You don’t often think of Fontainebleau, but I think we should!
In the 17th century, the first Bourbon king, Henry IV, had the canal dug and the gardens created. The château and grounds, in my opinion, deserve an entire day’s visit, just like Versailles. Unfortunately, I had no idea and we arrived too late even to see the entire château. So I don’t have pictures of everything, including the magnificent theatre.
During the wars between the Catholics and Protestants, Henry IV held a diplomatic meeting in Fontainebleau to try and calm the rising religious tensions. And … lots of other things happened, which you can read about in the link below. Too many to list here when there are so many pictures to show you.
In the 18th century – the Age of Enlightenment – the château was used as a hunting box where kings received visiting royalty in a style more relaxed than at Versailles. This was where many festivals, games, and theatre pieces were held, such as Jean-Jaques Rousseau’s The Village Soothsayer. You can get a glimpse of the theatre on the website, but (as I mentioned) we didn’t have time to see it so there are no pictures here. Fontainebleau was a bucolic escape for royalty in that era. Quoting from the website:
Throughout the 18th century, court life at Fontainebleau reached a peak of sophistication best summarised by Talleyrand when he famously remarked to Guizot that “Those who have not lived through the years around 1789 cannot know what is meant by the pleasure of life.”
Napoleon had Fontainebleau completely redecorated immediately after the revolution, including removing of all signs of royalty and replacing it with his ensign – the eagle. In fact, he did more to Fontainebleau than any other king and made this his second home after Saint-Cloud. Pope Piuos VII consecrated the emperor here in 1804.
After Napoleon’s defeat (in 1812, with the abdication in 1814), the Bourbon princess, Marie-Caroline, came in 1816 to marry the Duke of Berry and the château was once again under royal influence until 1851, when Napoleon III (the grandson) would establish his empire for the next 18 years.
As you can see, Fontainebleau bounced back and forth between royals and emperors for a few centuries, leaving us with a museum, rich with sumptuous, gilded history from both eras. Let’s take a closer look.
The Grand Apartments – these are left nearly intact from when Napoleon III and Eugenie inhabited them.
Here is the Empress’s room
The Renaissance Rooms, which include the ballroom, galleries, and the ornate Italian influence. Come on in and have a peek!
I don’t know if it was just that week or if it’s an ongoing thing, but you can rent or buy Renaissance costumes, as this family did.
The massive chimney at the head of the ballroom.
This balcony overlooks a gallery, and I don’t remember which one but I’m pretty sure it belongs with the Renaissance rooms so I’m putting the photo here.
Otherwise, I have only one picture that I’m sure is of the Papal Apartments:
Sumptuous, isn’t it?
Here in another gallery:
and another.
There are some special museum pieces unique to Fontainebleau, such as this painting of Josephine in her coronation gown.
In absence of an organised virtual tour, let me show you some close-up shots of the interior.
A leather-covered door.
Another door with a crest.
A view from the stairwell
The wooden floor
a fancier wooden floor
The light fixture and moulding …
Here are some other rooms. I believe the first one is one of Marie-Antoinette’s apartments.
A nursery ..
(this next one probably belongs in the Grand Apartments)
A view outdoors.
More windows …
Speaking of the outdoors, we went around the park after our visit and discovered this back entrance to Fontainebleau that’s worth showing you, even though I don’t think you can access the chateau from there. Isn’t this a magnificent view?
And then another at the back gates with those fearsome heads looking down.
Before I end my Fontainebleau post, I can’t help but say a word about Napoleon. As a Regency period aficionado, I loved seeing all the relics from Napoleon’s era and influence.
It’s funny, because I forget I’m in France, married to a Frenchman – that I’m now French! When I talk about Waterloo and enthuse about how out-numbered Wellington was and how the British should not have won, and how you’d never know it with “the Beau” sitting on his horse, cool as a cucumber, finally suggesting that all the generals not cluster together in one easy target, but rather spread out a bit … and how they won in the end! I get so excited about the British victory.
My husband just rolls his eyes.
But here you see Napoleon’s vanity case.
Duelling pistols .
A sword with three scabbards. (Three swords, really).
Paintings and busts-
and the outfit he wore! (Okay this guy is really short. I’m glad my Frenchman is taller).
I think, if anything, I loved this the most about Fontainebleau. Sure, the château was so beautiful and ornate and rich with history. But I got to sidle up with Napoleon’s things.
Here’s his throne room with all the original furniture … (squeal)
You just can’t help but get a thrill.
I got my information from this website, and only by doing a separate google search discovered the English version.
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February 24, 2017
Cauliflower Gratin
I’m so cruel. I posted a picture of the lemon tarte I made today, promising the recipe on my blog soon. Instead I’m posting cauliflower. A cauliflower gratin recipe I made a few days ago. But cauliflower can be good too …
As long as you’e not expecting lemon tarte.
This recipe was suggested by my nutritionist and has become a hit in our family. I never did do a follow-up post on the nutritionist’s plan, but I intend to. We just went on Saturday as a family and the session was great as all the kids got involved in learning how to eat healthily.
She asked me if I wanted to get weighed (privately) first, and I sort of hesitated since I was not planning on it. In the end I did and was so pleased to learn I had lost another kilo. (About 2 lbs). Since I started this in June, I’ve sometimes stayed the same, sometimes lost one pound or two, sometimes lost more. But I’ve never gained. That’s not bad considering travel, holidays, emotions (you know what I mean, right?). This plan is sustainable long-term and I’m about 25 pounds less than I was in June.
So here is one of the recipes that’s good for the whole family and you can adjust the quantities according to the number of people that will eat it. You can also swap out the ham for some other meat if you don’t eat pork.
Take one potato per person. We’re five, but two of them were smaller so I used 6. Peel them and cook them in advance. Then cube them. This is your starch portion.
Cook 1 kilo (2 lbs) cauliflower in advance and set it out to cool. If you’re in a rush, no biggie, but I like to do this part in advance so that the actual assembly will be fast. This (along with your salad) is your vegetable portion.
Speaking of which, I also like to cook the small onion in advance too, although you can do this right before you assemble. (You can also use a shallot instead of an onion).
When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 375° (or 350° if your oven heats fast). Combine the cauliflower, potatoes, onions, and 200 grams of cubed ham (your protein portion). To this add 30 grams grated cheese per person (your dairy portion), plus 2 tablespoons of sour cream per person (your fat portion). In our case that was 150g cheese and 10 spoons crème fraiche (our equivalent of sour cream).
I added a teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon white pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg.
Mix it up.
Put it in a gratin pan like this
(rectangular with semi-deep sides)
Put it in the oven for about a half hour (keep an eye on it).
And you get this light, delicious family dish that you can serve with a side salad. That’s exactly what we did, and I made the dressing with a tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 3 tablespoons canola oil (this went over our fat portion for the meal if you count the sour cream), and a generous pinch of fresh chives. The two together were delicious.
Drink 2 glasses of water with the meal and top it with a piece of fruit. We didn’t have yoghurt since the dairy portion (cheese) was already in the dish.
And then you have your protein, vegetable, dairy, starch, and fruit for the meal! This is so easy and good, it’s now on our regular rotation.
Cauliflower Gratin Print Prep time 30 mins Cook time 30 mins Total time 1 hour Serves: 5 Ingredients 5 potatoes 1 kilo cauliflower (2 lbs) 1 small onion or shallot 200 g ham cubes (7 oz) 150g grated cheese (5.2 oz or 1.3 cup) 10 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraiche 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon white pepper ¼ teaspoon nutmeg Instructions Pre-heat the oven to 375°F (or 350° if your oven heats overly well) Peel the potatoes and cook them in advance. Cube them. Cook the cauliflower and drain it. Slice the onion or shallot and stir-fry until tender. Mix all the ingredients together and put it in the gratin pan. Cook for a half-hour and serve with a side salad and a piece of fruit for a well-balanced meal. 3.5.3226 
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February 20, 2017
Paris Restaurant Review : Le Petit Commines
Le Petit Commines serves traditional French food, completely made from scratch with the exception of the pigeon terrine, which is brought in ready-made. As a result, this little bistro can cater to any food allergy, including gluten, soy, lactose, and peanut. It even has (limited) vegan options.
What’s wonderful about this restaurant, besides the amazing food (really and truly good) is how friendly the staff is, how dedicated and knowledgeable, and how well they speak English.
The restaurant is open 7 nights a week. You need a reservation because space is limited and we saw people being turned away. We were seated almost in the corner, and you can see from this angle just how cozy the setting is (there’s about equal seating on my left as well, just out of view).
The waiter asked if it was our first time here, and he came over to explain everything. I let him know right away I was gluten intolerant, which he noted. Before he could fully launch into the wine list, we told him we didn’t drink alcohol … but not before we learned how they choose the wines. Once you’ve placed your order, the staff asks questions that have nothing to do with food, and based on your answers, they choose the wine for you. That is pretty cool, isn’t it?
The walls are lined with wines, and the whites and champagnes are refrigerated. We ordered sparkling water, which they mineralise and add the bubbles themselves.
For my entrée (which means appetiser not main dish), I had a velouté of rutabaga with these interesting bacon chips that I first thought were red cabbage leaves until I bit into them. There was a garlic sauce swirled into the soup as well. I want to try and reproduce this at home.
But the soup was after he brought me gluten-free bread, fresh out of the oven.
Folks. Those of you who are gluten-free, you will know what an amazement this is. I was able to have bread with my meal! In Paris!
Matthieu had foie gras
(which I tasted with my bread).
Then he ordered this enormous steak that was the most tender beef I’d ever tried. There was some alcohol in the sauce but I couldn’t identify it.
I ordered the pigeon, which was served on a bed of onion confit, figs, and chestnuts.
(You can see the claw next to the carrots. Sorry to shock you).
He also told me to use my fingers.
The meals come with sides to share – puréed carrots, cottage fries, and spinach. We got an order of brie cheese after the main meal – not because we were hungry, but because I had bread! And I wanted cheese with my bread.
It ended up being too much though, especially since we don’t drink and you really need the red wine to cut the taste of cheese between bites. (We use the alcohol-free version at home).
And if we weren’t hungry for the cheese, we certainly weren’t hungry for the dessert. But we were on a mission!
February 16, 2017
How to Travel Elegantly (with kids)
I am not naturally the most elegant person in the world, and if you are coming to read this post already in possession of matching Louis Vuitton luggage, you might not find anything enlightening. Furthermore, my definition of “elegant” includes the right attitude and being prepared rather than the latest Louboutin, which will explain the focus on a travel kit and staying zen.
My post is geared more towards traveling with children that are at least somewhat autonomous, and if that’s not you yet, don’t worry. I’ve been there. One day you’ll be where I am too. The post you’re looking for at your current stage will contain the word “survival” in the title as opposed to “elegant.”
All that said and if you are still with me, I have some tips to boost your confidence and your travel experience – even when traveling with kids. Particularly if it’s your first overseas trip.
How much have I traveled, and how much of an authority am I on the subject?
Well, to start with, I did a semester overseas in France when I was in college. Then right after graduation, I moved to Taiwan and, while there, flew to Okinawa, HongKong, Seoul, and Singapore. We also stopped in Hawaii on the way back. After a year in Manhattan, I returned to Taiwan for a year, then went to Paris for a year. Following that, I had a job in Manhattan that required traveling to Asia for weeks at a time, on a regular basis, for a period of two years.
Six months after we married, we moved to Africa for a year, traveling between Somaliland, Djibouti, and Kenya (with brief stops in Ethiopia). Then we moved back to France, and apart from the shorter trips – Spain, Switzerland, Germany, England, Belgium – we make regular trips to the States. This December we just completed a whirlwind tour of India and survived.
So this, friends, is my qualification for speaking on the topic, and here are my tips.
WHAT TO WEAR
Dress appropriately. This is multi-layered advice as you need to dress appropriately for the country you are visiting (long skirts in India, no sweatpants in Paris, etc.) and you also need to dress in a way that is comfortable and flattering for the plane ride. (Speaking of multi-layered, more on that below).
When I first moved to Taiwan, I wore shorts on the plane, thinking it would be the smart thing to do. It was summer where I was coming from and it was nearly peak season in tropical Taiwan. I couldn’t fathom, a couple months in, how some of the girls there could wear jeans in August in that heat!
The problem with shorts is they are uncomfortable on the plane. When you’re in high altitude, the inside of the plane is chilly. And shorts ride up. You have to keep pulling them back down. And, let’s face it, they don’t look very elegant. I know people still think they’re the most comfortable outfit for summer travel because I see people in airports wearing them all the time, but they’re not.
The best thing to wear is pants or jeans that flatter you and that have some stretch. You want to move freely so you need that stretch to the fabric, but you want to look tailored even after 16 hours of travel. (You don’t look tailored in sweat pants either). I know you can’t see behind this mound of luggage we brought to India – mostly donations – but this was my super comfortable travel outfit that made me feel great. Pink pants and a navy button-down shirt! Not even breakin’ a sweat with all that luggage.
I dressed my children in pants, too, and made sure they were the most comfortable pair they owned. My husband also pays attention to the pockets of the jeans he chooses, selecting ones that are deep enough to keep the most important documents close.
Wear good colors. Most of the airport bathrooms and check-in counters have harsh fluorescent light that make you gain 20 years and 20 pounds. Do yourself a favour and choose navy blue – or any other color that you know looks good on your skin even in garish lighting. For me, navy is top. Green comes second and pink comes third. And I usually stick to muted or no patterns, simple jewelry and makeup. I do wear makeup, though, because it’s reassuring against the backdrop of wrinkles (bathed in a neon glow). This was my summer travel outfit below.
Wear layers. When we went to India, the kids had a tee shirt under their long-sleeved shirt and sweater because we left in frosty December and arrived in 75° weather. I chose a button-down shirt with a collar whose sleeves I could roll up. By the time we exited the airport, they were able to strip down to tee shirts, which made the heat bearable, even in pants.
Last of all, wear comfortable and stylish shoes that either slip on or zip up in case you have to remove them at the airport, although they’re requiring that less now. The reason the kids are wearing shoes with laces is because they have a limited selection of shoes, we had limited space in the bags, and … they’re younger and can handle the bending down.
