Arthur Frommer's Blog, page 13

Arthur's Blog: All 380+ US National Parks Are Free to Enter on November 10, 11, and 12

It is probably the longest-ever waiver of admission charges in the history of the National Parks Service. On the long, Veterans' Day weekend coming up, every one of those parks will be free to enter. And inside the parks will be colorful commemorations of Veterans' Day -- movies, pageants, speeches, parties, free tours.

This coming weekend on The Travel Show (wor710.com), at the start of our second hour (1:07 p.m. Eastern Time), my daughter and I will be conducting a live interview with a spokesman for the National Parks about the unprecedented celebrations involving this waiver of admission charges.  He's been on the program before, a lively and colorful speaker, and you'll learn a lot about the National Parks system and the opportunities for visiting the parks on the Veterans' Day weekend. 

There is undoubtedly a U.S. National Park near where you live. And it's an easy drive for tens of millions of Americans to the four most spectacular parks: Yosemite, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, and Great Smoky Mountains. If you have never visited all four of them, you're missing out on a powerful travel experience. And on that weekend coming up, you can visit them for no charge.  It would be wise to make your plans (and your reservations for lodgings) now. 

Arthur's Blog: Lufthansa's $659 NYC-to-Berlin Round-Trip Fare Creates a Powerful Vacation Destination for the Fall

Its hotel rates are much lower than you'd encounter in London or Paris. Its cultural opportunities are almost as numerous. Its recent history of Cold War Conflict is fascinating to view and experience. And its residents are among the most sophisticated, literate, and open-minded in the world. I'm talking about Berlin, where my own army service (in 1954-55) was memorable beyond imagining. In autumn, you can not only live there at a moderate cost, but you can also wear yourselfout attempting to experience all the museums, theatres, opera houses (two big ones), restaurants and other food purveyors (the food halls of the KaDeWe Department Store compare favorably with Harrod's in London), shops, and historical sights that are there to visit. A week is too little time. And starting now, you can fly there non-stop from New York on scattered dates for the amazing price of $659 round-trip (including all taxes, fees and fuel surcharge) on Lufthansa, provided only that you book no later than November 8, and travel there between November 1 and December 12 (though there will undoubtedly be a repeat of this sale in the months of January and February). Go to Lufthansa.com for all the details.  And if (a) you're not interested in Berlin, and (b) live in or near Chicago, how about $569 (that's no typo!) for the round-trip fare (including everything) between Chicago and Istanbul? That's another example of the scattered bargains starting to appear on the websites of hungry trans-Atlantic airlines. 

Arthur's Blog: Gastronomy, of All Things, is the New Reason for Persuading People to Visit Peru

On my own last trip to Miami Beach and Miami, I was stunned by the number of new Peruvian restaurants I spotted. I counted at least a dozen of them and went to eat several times at one in particular, called Mixtura (meaning "melange"), on Collins Avenue in North Beach. Its signature main dish -- aji de gallina (shredded chicken in a cream-based sauce of chili peppers) was awesome, and its ceviche appetizer (the Peruvians invented ceviche) made for a bracingly tart start for the meal.
Now food, obviously, is a great reason for travel. It is food that draws a great many tourists to France. It is food that -- at least in part -- has made such a touristic success out of Barcelona. And the Peruvians have now decided that they will spotlight food as a major reason for vacationing in Peru.
The effort started this past weekend at a conference in Washington, D.C., where "PromPeru" publicized the appearance, talking about Peruvian food, of the great Ferran Adria, chef-owner of the former El Bulli restaurant in Spain (probably the finest restaurant on earth, in the short period of its existence). Adria has concluded that food can be an instrument for social change in Peru, and that 80,000 under-privileged young people can be trained as great Peruvian chefs, to earn their living in a vastly expanded industry of restaurants in Peru itself, in multiple cooking schools there catering to tourists, and in overseas countries offering Peruvian restaurants to their inhabitants. He is aided in that project by the leading Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio, and the two have produced a film called Peru Knows: Cuisine as an Agent of Social Change (also, Peru Sabe: La cocina: arma social).
The hour-long film will eventually be transferred to the Internet for free viewing by anyone, but for the time being you can see a four-minute trailer. I've played the trailer, and found it quite interesting (it has English sub-titles). Here's an unusual approach to tourist promotion, obviously reflecting Peru's belief that they need something more than Machu Picchu to attract visitors from abroad. After glimpsing the delectable dishes pictured in the film, you may want to rush onto a Peru-bound plane right away.

Arthur's Blog: Delta Expands Travel Window on Those Reduced Transatlantic Fares

It's important to note that Delta Airlines has significantly improved its transatlantic airfares for departures in the immediate weeks ahead. You still must make your purchase from Delta no later than October 26. But no longer are you confined to flying during the month of February, 2013, as before. You can go and return as early as next month -- November -- and still pay as little as $600 round-trip between New York and Dublin, and $880 round-trip (including all taxes, fees, and fuel surcharge) between New York and London Heathrow. 
It's true that Delta's new fares are still somewhat higher than many of Aer Lingus' sales fares (Aer Lingus charges only $737 round-trip between New York and London Heathrow, and Aer Lingus can be booked beyond October 26), but Delta does not require a stop in Dublin en route. Will Aer Lingus now up the ante to improve what's now a closer distance to the other carriers' airfares? I'm betting they will. 
As before, the new Delta sales fares are available from numerous U.S. cities, extending all the way from Los Angeles to the continent of Europe. And, as before, the top stunner (although one that won't be considered by most travelers) is a round-trip fare of only $614 between New York and Moscow (Delta obviously isn't filling most of its Moscow-bound flights, to cut the fares that drastically). Other major bargains include a round-trip price of only $716 between New York and Istanbul, $998 between Chicago and Paris, and $1,020 between Los Angeles and Amsterdam. Go to Delta.com for all the details.
But note that these reduced fares are not available on every day of the week. You must be somewhat flexible in your departure and return times to take advantage of them. Still, if you aren't tied to exact dates for your flights, you can travel to Europe this autumn and early winter for much less than you might earlier have thought.

Arthur's Blog: A Look Inside the Fast Growing World of European River Cruising

River cruising, especially in Europe, has become one of the major sectors of travel. New river cruise companies are rapidly being added to the list of participants or becoming known in the United States (where Tauck River Cruises and Scenic Tours are the latest to gain attention), while the number of rivers on which they sail is continuing to grow. What used to be limited to the Rhine, the Rhone, the Seine, and the Danube is now a touristic network of at least a dozen famous or not-so-famous rivers in France, Germany, eastern Europe, and Russia.

The picture is not always a happy one. Because of apparent climate change, river levels rise and fall dramatically. When they fall because of drought conditions, river ships sometimes get mired in the mud and are unable to proceed. When they rise because of heavy rainfall, river ships are sometimes unable to pass below low bridges, and passengers must transfer to motor coaches for a part of their cruise itinerary. A substantial number of river cruises, especially in spring, have encountered those problems and passengers have been inconvenienced.

Because there's so much interest in a vacation activity that hasn't yet been comprehensively described in guidebooks and articles, my daughter and I decided to invite a river cruise expert, Carolyn Spencer Brown (editor-in-chief of Cruise Critic), onto our Sunday radio program this past weekend. She proved an engaging and totally honest commentator, who candidly described some of the river level problems that river cruises have recently encountered.

She also proceeded to describe the "personalities" of different river cruise companies -- the features that make some of them distinctive.

The fast-expanding and upscale Viking River Cruises (tel. 800/304-9616; www.vikingrivers.com) is one such river enterprise that's come in for a great deal of attention. Its newly-built "longboats" -- larger than the usual river ship, and with balconies attached to oversized, suite-like cabins -- have been almost universally praised, but because they differ in quality so greatly from some of the line's older ships, some passengers assigned to the older ones have complained. It's important to inquire when you book a Viking cruise, Ms Brown advises, whether you're scheduled for one of the older or newer ships.

Tauck River Cruises (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com), one of the newer entries in the industry, are expensive, upscale vessels that would compare with a Ritz Carlton in the hotel industry (they're heavily decorated with crystal and other such designer touches). They are booked most heavily by Americans (sophisticated ones), and are less likely to be used by the Australian, New Zealand, and British passengers found so often on other lines, according to Brown. And as compared with the Eastern Europeans who staff most service positions on some of the other lines, Tauck more often employs crew from the Philippines and Indonesia, well-known for their service and meticulous attention to passenger comfort.

AMA River Cruises (tel. 800/510-4002; www.amarivercruises.com) has recently scored a coup by equipping its river ships with a great many bicycles used by passengers for shore excursions. The river banks of Europe and the villages alongside are excellent locations for bicycling, and cyclists are much appreciated by the local populations. AMA's own, sponsored ship excursions or onboard classes have also been made heavily "experiential," according to Brown, and have recently featured hands-on European cooking classes much appreciated by passengers. Recently, she related that the relatively-new river cruise company called Scenic Tours (tel. 866/689-8611; us.scenictours.com) has stolen a march on AMA by equipping its boats with electric bicycles capable of easing one's journeys uphill. Passengers, apparently, are wildly enthusiastic about those electric bikes.

As for Avalon River Cruises, (tel. 877/797-8791; www.avalonwaterways.com) those are well known for their capable program directors, who keep the atmosphere on board lively and productive of new learning. Danish modern furnishings are the interior style; the setting and atmosphere are never fancy or fussy, but rather like a good, standard, Hilton hotel. And finally, the upscale Uniworld River Cruises (tel. 800/555-8333; www.uniworld.com)have recently installed an indoor swimming pool on their newest ship, a first for the industry, and their ships are otherwise decorated like an elegant country home. Uniworld also claims to offer electric bicycles to their passengers.

For the full flavor of Brown's assessment of the major river cruise companies, go to WOR710.com, scroll to the bottom of the page, click on The Travel Show, and then click on the 2d hour of the program for October 21; her interview starts that second hour.

Arthur's Blog: Following Aer Lingus, Delta Cuts Winter Fares to Europe -- But for a Much Shorter Travel Window

Just four days ago, I wrote about the fall-and-winter Aer Lingus sale ($600 round-trip between New York and Dublin, $700 between New York and Paris, including everything) and predicted that other airlines would soon act to emulate this dramatic break in the airfare structure. Well today, Delta Airlines has been the first to leap into the fray, but with a sale that's mostly for travel between January 23 to February 28 (sale fres to Paris allow for travel in parts of November and December). Fares must be booked by October 26. Still, it's a start, and will undoubtedly be followed by other radical cuts in trans-Atlantic winter fares by other airlines.

Subject to the above dates, Delta will be charging only $614 round-trip (with all fees, taxes and fuel surcharges thrown in) between New York and Moscow, only $700 between New York and Madrid, only $715 between New York and Istanbul. It will be charging a higher $824 between New York and Barcelona, $866 to Amsterdam, and $880 to London Heathrow. While those prices aren't as dramatic as Aer Lingus', they are at least a start. And Delta is also offering an immediate cut in the price of fares to Paris for flights occurring between November 22 and December 17. Fly during those dates, and you'll pay $934 round-trip between New York and Paris, including all taxes, fees and fuel surcharge. That price is at least $200 below what people are today paying.

As I said, this is only the start. We will soon be hearing from even hungrier airlines, including Iberia and Lufthansa. And it will soon be possible, in my considered view, to fly to Europe in winter for the prices you paid three-or-so years ago.  

Arthur's Blog: Another Super-Sized Cruiseship is an Occasion to Grieve for the Cruise Industry

This morning, the Internet was full of news about the contract that Norwegian Cruiseline has given to a German shipyard to construct a 163,000-ton passenger line called the "Breakaway Plus," to be delivered in 2015. It will carry 4,200 passengers -- 100 more than the cruiseline's earlier, humongous Norwegian Epic -- and will be filled with amusement facilities staggering the imagination.
I sailed on an orientation cruise of the Norwegian Epic, and it was the worst recreational event of my life. The atmosphere aboard ship was noisy, jangled, hectic. There was not a single quiet spot I could find for mere relaxation. Loud contemporary music filled the air, loud crowds of merry-makers surged through the corridors, everywhere were lines of middle-aged men waiting to go down water slides, bands of rock musicians were given precedence over any competing activity. I searched in vain for a library -- there was none -- and headed in desperation to a so-called lounge, only to find that it contained a bowling alley alongside its easychairs.
I thought back, at the time, to cruises I had taken before the mania of size had infected the cruise industry. I thought of cruises where you read a novel you had always intended to finish, in the open air and on a comfortable deckchair affording privacy and quiet. I thought of cruises where conversations with newly-met people were a major point of the experience. I thought of cruises addressed by various experts on subjects of history or science, of cruises where passengers engaged in meetings to discuss various topics. And where you enjoyed quiet meals and strolling about quiet decks in the ocean's open air. 
All these hallmarks of cruising are fast disappearing in the wake of culturally-deprived, entertainment-obsessed, cruiseship executives wanting to convert popularly-priced cruiseships into amusement parks. Repeat: amusement parks. It is a tragedy that the only cruiseship facilities that can provide the traditional amenities and rewards of a cruise are the high-priced ones. I assume there are no waterslides on Seabourn, Regent, or Seven Seas. Henceforth, only the 1% or the 2% will be able to enjoy a cruise of the sort that once captivated so many people.

Arthur's Blog: An Oversees Retirement Expert Recommends Cuenca in Ecuador as Top Spot

Ever heard of a city called Cuenca? In Ecuador? According to an acknowledged expert on retiring abroad (she is Kathleen Peddicord, editor of LiveAndInvestOverseas.com), Cuenca is the best possible place for Americans to settle in their retirement years, an idyllic community of many Americans (about 2,000) who have already decided to live there. It narrowly edges out Panama City, Panama, which hitherto had been deemed a top place to transfer yourself and spouse, but which has lately grown more expensive and thus loses much of its appeal and top ranking in the desirability charts.
According to Ms. Peddicord, who appeared as a guest on last Sunday's Travel Show presented by myself and my daughter, Cuenca's cost-of-living is so gentle that you can live a high-quality and comfortable life there for about $1,100 a month -- a sum less than the average monthly Social Security check of most Americans. That's if you rent you accommodations. If you decide to own the condo in which you live, those can be picked up for between $80,000 and $200,000, and the condo you get for that price is a two-bedroom flat in a newly-constructed apartment building.
What's more, according to Kathleen Peddicord, Cuenca is located in the highlands of Ecuador, at an altitude of about 2,500 feet, and therefore is much more moderate in climate than you otherwise experience in such hot-weather countries. The city's population of 500,000 people is sufficient to support an active cultural life, and there's an international airport nearby. Moreover, the city has 18 excellent hospitals supplying high-quality treatment.
What's wrong with this recommendation? The only downside I can see is that the political situation in Ecuador, though fairly stable at the moment, isn't entirely so. The country experienced a minor attempt at a military coup d'etat two years ago. Its president, Rafael Correa, is an admirer of Hugo Chavez, has a stormy relationship with the media, has been accused of shackling the press, and is admired by many, but feared by many. He's an interesting example of a populist leader (about whom the jury is still out). But others will argue that even if his government were eventually overthrown, such an event would have no impact upon the American retirement community now in Cuenca, whose presence would be valued by all segments of the Ecuadorean society.
Have any of our readers been to Cuenca? Does it deserve such an enthusiastic accolade ("world's best retirement location") by such an eminent authority as Ms. Peddicord?

Arthur's Blog: Paying by Credit Card Might Not Protect You Entirely When an Operator Goes Bankrupt

When Club ABC Tours went bankrupt a couple of weeks ago, I immediately wrote about the tragic event on this blog and strongly advised that prudent persons should always pay with a credit card -- not in cash, and not with a debit card, but with a credit card -- when they book a tour, even a tour with a distinguished company. Club ABC Tours had been in business for over 50 years, and no one expected them to go under. 

I immediately was challenged by several readers, who pointed out that even a credit card payment is not always a safe way to pay for travel. After looking into the matter (and consulting with Ed Perkins, distinguished travel commentator on these matters), I have concluded that persons challenging my view were partly (but only partly) right. 

The federal Truth in Lending Act requires that credit card companies make you whole in the event that you do not receive the product for which you paid with a credit card. So that's a strong endorsement for using credit cards when buying a tour. 

Trouble is that the Truth in Lending Act also requires that you must make your claim against the credit card company within 60 days after you have been billed for the payment. So if, for example, you book a tour and pay for it with a credit card a full six months before you learn that the tour operator has gone belly up, you are not entitled to a refund of your payment from the credit card company.

The question arises: Do credit card companies pay off even if the card was used MORE than 60 days in advance of the bankruptcy? On that, there's considerable dispute. Numerous travelers have told me of generous, kind-hearted, reputation-sensitive credit card companies that pay off regardless of how long ago was the use of their credit card. Other readers have stoutly insisted that they know of credit card companies that have been sticklers about the 60-day cut-off -- and have denied reimbursement. There is apparently no consensus of opinion about this, no statistics possessed by anyone, and it is an open and purely speculative question as to whether American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Discover, et al, will usually pay off even if you have discovered the bankruptcy, and been injured by it, more than 60 days after the use of your credit card.

That being said, it's still prudent to make payments by credit card -- and not in cash or by debit card (the latter regarded as the equivalent of a cash payment). And it's even wiser to take out a cancellation insurance policy that covers financial default by a supplier. But you must buy that insurance policy from an independent company, and not from or through the tour operator. Many insurance policies contain provisions that they do not cover financial insolvency of the company that sold the policy.  

Arthur's Blog: Aer Lingus Sale Gets You to Ireland from $601, to France from $697

At last, there's been a dramatic collapse in the transatlantic airfare structure. Initiated by the Irish carrier Aer Lingus, it permits you to fly during any of the late fall and winter months for $601 round-trip between New York and Dublin, including all government fees and taxes, and including fuel surcharge. From November through early March, you simply choose any of numerous dates (not all of them, but many of them) when you can fly eastbound for $273, all-in, and westbound for $328 all-in, for that total of $601. Aer Lingus doesn't fly every day of the week in the deep winter; you'll have to study the charts carefully; but by choosing dates when these ultra-low fares apply, you can cross the Atlantic for the price that used to be charged several years ago, before trans-Atlantic airfares skyrocketed.

The same for transatlantic flights to several major European capitals: Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt. Provided you're willing to visit these locations via Dublin, and change planes in Dublin, you can choose dates when the combined eastbound and westbound fares amount to as little as $697 round-trip, again including everything (and in winter and late fall only). That's a stunning price, at least $200 less than will be charged by the airlines that fly to these places non-stop from the U.S.

It now remains to be seen whether airlines like Iberia and Lufthansa will also reduce their rates to the major European capitals, provided you fly via Madrid or Frankfurt, and change planes in those cities. We'll be watching the situation closely. For now, it suffices to know that at least one big European airline has slashed the price, obviously to fill planes that are now flying with a great many empty seats.

Full details of the sale can be found at AerLingus.com.