Andy Smart's Blog, page 2

December 17, 2016

Langmusi: The Tibetan Lady and the Pear

Third part of three: To understand the TWAF phenomenon please read Part 2 first >here<


[image error]


As the day moves on I proceed down the valley to Namo Gorge. Damn it! My super irritating habit of not buying something I need when walking past a shop has meant that I’ve no water at all, and at this altitude I’m seriously parched.


Just before the gorge is a beautiful tranquil flat grassy area with the river babbling nearby. Numerous water powered prayer wheels in stilted boxes quietly squeak away over yonder.


[image error]

Just beyond the temple is the way on to Namo Gorge and the grove


Giving myself time to decide if I want to go any further while being this thirsty, I sit against a tree in a quiet grove trying to contain my inward annoyance. Then, out of the corner of my eye I spot a woman raise her phone up and take a snap of me from the other side of the trees. TWAF at nine o’clock! Instinctively I turn, shake my head and hold my hand up flat “No! I’ve had just enough of all that today, especially when I’m trying to chill.


[image error]Unfortunately as per usual I’ve made another glaring error of judgement; she is Tibetan along with her friends who were sitting together on the grass enjoying their day. As she sits back down they all turn to me looking really hurt.


In an attempt to vindicate myself I smile, give them the thumbs up and wave but even so the woman stands up and proceeds towards me through the grove. Head bowed, her body arched over, she suddenly looks up at me with deep hazel eyes filled with sadness. She wears a pink and blue headscarf and her dark weathered face seems to magnify the depth of her expression. Shuffling closer, she mutters prayer under her breath and then takes out a pear from a small embroidered cloth bag.


[image error]Holding it out at arm’s length she continues towards me so I spring up and meet her half way accepting the gift with a big thu chi che [tɔɔdʒe] which is my best thank you in Tibetan. Having returned to her friends they all look back around with nervousness to gauge my reaction. Holding up the pear in both hands, I say thank you again with my biggest smile and to my relief it’s met with their almost joyous reaction. Phew!


Lying back against the tree I focus on the pear. I must admit that there is a terribly negative demon that lives inside of me and right now it’s telling me to put it in my bag and save it for later. Recently though some progress has been made concerning the intrusive voices and instead I take a bite.


Rather than the hard pears you can normally buy in the shops, this one’s cold, soft and it explodes with juice all over my face and hands. Indeed it’s an instant thirst quencher of the highest order and I gorge myself, slurping on it without a second thought like a pig.


Finally, as the display of unbridled indulgence grinds to a halt I am left with, for a brief moment, an empty space free from craving and I sigh in relief. Within seconds though, a cloud envelops me as a singular deep feeling of guilt reveals itself. The exchange lingers, dancing around inside my head for the rest of the day.


Make what you like of it. The more I think about it, the more twists of meaning the episode seems to have and I’ll never forget that brief exchange that happened in the grove.


[image error]


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, On the Road, Writing Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, Chinese, life, random, stories, thoughts, Tibetan, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 17, 2016 00:40

December 16, 2016

Langmusi: The Tibetan Lady and the Pear

Third part of three: To understand the TWAF phenomenon please read Part 2 first >here<


[image error]


As the day moves on I proceed down the valley to Namo Gorge. Damn it! My super irritating habit of not buying something I need when walking past a shop has meant that I’ve no water at all, and at this altitude I’m seriously parched.


Just before the gorge is a beautiful tranquil flat grassy area with the river babbling nearby. Numerous water powered prayer wheels in stilted boxes quietly squeak away over yonder.


[image error]

Just beyond the temple is the way on to Namo Gorge and the grove


Giving myself time to decide if I want to go any further while being this thirsty, I sit against a tree in a quiet grove trying to contain my inward annoyance. Then, out of the corner of my eye I spot a woman raise her phone up and take a snap of me from the other side of the trees. TWAF at nine o’clock! Instinctively I turn, shake my head and hold my hand up flat “No! I’ve had just enough of all that today, especially when I’m trying to chill.


[image error]Unfortunately as per usual I’ve made another glaring error of judgement; she is Tibetan along with her friends who were sitting together on the grass enjoying their day. As she sits back down they all turn to me looking really hurt.


In an attempt to vindicate myself I smile, give them the thumbs up and wave but even so the woman stands up and proceeds towards me through the grove. Head bowed, her body arched over, she suddenly looks up at me with deep hazel eyes filled with sadness. She wears a pink and blue headscarf and her dark weathered face seems to magnify the depth of her expression. Shuffling closer, she mutters prayer under her breath and then takes out a pear from a small embroidered cloth bag.


[image error]Holding it out at arm’s length she continues towards me so I spring up and meet her half way accepting the gift with a big thu chi che [tɔɔdʒe] which is my best thank you in Tibetan. Having returned to her friends they all look back around with nervousness to gauge my reaction. Holding up the pear in both hands, I say thank you again with my biggest smile and to my relief it’s met with their almost joyous reaction. Phew!


Lying back against the tree I focus on the pear. I must admit that there is a terribly negative demon that lives inside of me and right now it’s telling me to put it in my bag and save it for later. Recently though some progress has been made concerning the intrusive voices and instead I take a bite.


Rather than the hard pears you can normally buy in the shops, this one’s cold, soft and it explodes with juice all over my face and hands. Indeed it’s an instant thirst quencher of the highest order and I gorge myself, slurping on it without a second thought like a pig.


Finally, as the display of unbridled indulgence grinds to a halt I am left with, for a brief moment, an empty space free from craving and I sigh in relief. Within seconds though, a cloud envelops me as a singular deep feeling of guilt reveals itself. The exchange lingers, dancing around inside my head for the rest of the day.


Make what you like of it. The more I think about it, the more twists of meaning the episode seems to have and I’ll never forget that brief exchange that happened in the grove.


[image error]


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, Writing Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, Chinese, life, random, stories, thoughts, Tibetan, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 16, 2016 13:46

Chinglish II: Forbidden to Wear a Life-Jacket on the Boat

click on the image and its much more readable


[image error]

click to enlarge


‘Chinglish’: the laughably bad Chinese > English translations you find all over China. There are also many examples in neighbouring countries but generally China leads the way in its bizarre gold medal winning interpretations.


[image error][image error][image error][image error]In case of fire warning: “Please don’t worry if a fire is occurring. Our hotel owned succour scattering facilities to sure you transmitted safely. Please follow the direction route to the safety corridor and there the missionaries will take you out to the security belt. Man profess your seat.


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: Chinglish, Humour Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, China, Chinese, Chinglish, comedy, happiness, Hilarious, humor, Humour, random, Travel
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 16, 2016 04:25

December 15, 2016

Langmusi: An Inspiring Spectacle but Shameful Behaviour

Second part of three. Please go >here< to go to Part 1


[image error]


Blessed Relief. I slept well with no nightmares, visitations or illnesses occurring. Phew! Must have been down to the hundreds of prayer wheels I span in place of actually finding an open monastery to exorcise my guilt.


It’s a bright crisp dazzling morning with one of those high altitude electric blue skies. As I pass the gate to the Kirti Gompa I realize I’m already out of breath, a reminder that Langmusi is three thousand three hundred metres above sea level and that the shades and hat need to stay firmly on for the day.


The monastery occupies the valley on the Sichuan side of town consisting of numerous temples of varying size, colour and age. The village-like community of small white houses follows the road towards the Namo Gorge and its breath-taking scenery is often compared to the rural Alpine areas of Austria. Nice!


[image error]


There are large stone ovens dotted across both sides of the area for burning juniper. On the crest of the hillside, from the vantage point of one of the small temples my ears pick up on a strange sound. Through the smoke haze, across the other side, at least a hundred monks are outside one of the main temples all shouting and hitting themselves. Indeed you can hear the distinctive slapping clearly and it’s one of the most bizarre sights you’ll ever see.


Making my way down, I get a closer look peering around the corner of one of the out-buildings. It’s a truly fascinating spectacle. I’m later told by some of the locals that they are actually debating particular words and text in Buddhist philosophy. They aren’t hitting themselves, rather it’s a sharp slap on the arm or clap is meant to grab the attention of the listener.


[image error]


Finding a comfortable wall some ways off, I’m able to sit back and take in the site from a distance. The morning is however, suddenly interrupted by a large number of Chinese tourists in day-glow outdoor gear, who flock to the monks like a heard of sheep. They then proceed to snap away with their cameras, mobile phones and tablets at point blank range with absolutely zero consideration for their ‘subject matter’. Some of them have telescopic zoom lenses which they shove in the faces of the monks who continue to with their debate as if the tourists aren’t there. I know for a fact though that nearly all the monks strongly dislike this. Well who wouldn’t?


[image error]


To see the monks in action (from a distance) check out my short vid on YouTube >>click here<<


I must say that I hate this behaviour with a passion having coined the phrase ‘TWAF’ or Taking (photos) Without Asking First. For a previous detailed analysis of this crap behaviour check out this post Are You a TWAF? >>click here<<. This insanely unthoughtful and shameful attitude to photography was already on full display in Xiahe when I observed a single woman in prayer outside a temple surrounded by TWAFs shooting a couple of feet away from her.


[image error]This is however, a golden opportunity to do something I’ve been meaning to do for a long time. Standing up I remove my camera from its bag and move towards them looking for my first target. Approaching the pack, I pick out a guy who is down on one knee level with a monk at head height and start taking photos of him.


“No!” he shouts, gesturing for me to move away.


“What you don’t like it? Ni bu xihuan ma?” I laugh continuing to take photos.


Standing up he moves away and repositions himself though is clearly hindered by my following him. At one point I get really close taking several shots before moving on to the next victim. By now, having clocked at what I’m doing, the group has dispersed in attempt to get away and continue shooting. I pick out another target who is holding up her tablet and get some excellent shots.


“No!” she barks, looking really pissed off. At this point I’m really enjoying myself and even a couple of the monks smile at me. Maybe they haven’t seen anyone doing this before. And so it goes on. Since this time I’ve had several quality gold star moments involving TWAFs and have been able to analyse their behaviour via video footage. Hilarious.


 


Be careful if you’re snapping away when I’m around mate I can tell you.


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, Cross China Road Trip, On the Road Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, China, Chinese, life, Photography, stories, Tibet, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 15, 2016 21:01

My Lovely Stats Counter Has Been Removed

[image error]

[image error]


Yesterday I woke up to see that my lovely stats counter had vanished. Not only that, but a big white square with the word ‘write’ had appeared and also a bell with a little red dot on it. AAAAAAAAAAAAAGH


[image error]


I miss my friendly little stats counter. Here’s why:



As I have my WP pages pinned to my browser, it would be the first thing I looked at whenever I started my computer up.
After a post you could see the activity immediately without having to refresh your page or go to the stats page. This was actually one of the more enjoyable things about WP just after you have just posted something. If people liked your post, it would be a great feeling to see your stats climbing.


You could click on it and your detailed stats page would instantly open on a separate link. Yes, there’s still a drop down menu from the first icon on the left of the dashboard, but for me it doesn’t open it in a separate link.

[image error]


I immediately got on to the help desk who said there was no way that this could be undone! Rot! Of course it can. He also said that things like this happen to him all the time and it doesn’t bother him. How nice! The reason for this awesomely user-friendly tool being removed is that this is the direction we are going now, aiming at users with mobile phones and tablets. Well that’s all well and good, but many of us still do use our computers right? The guy on the help desk also said that there was no official way of complaining but he would pass on my comments. Yeh right. ‘Course you will mate!


[image error]


I also resent people changing things without notification. I mean if you buy something would you be happy if someone changed it at a later date without asking? You want what it says on the tin after all.


If anyone else is as miffed as I am then please like, comment and share. I absolutely don’t believe that they can’t undo this crap intrusion into our WordPress world. I’ve never done a petition before but here it is. Seeing as there is no form of complaints then maybe this can go onto the forum if there is enough of a response.


BTW: If you drop by I won’t know as my stats counter has been removed.


[image error]


 


Be lucky. Be naughty!


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: Writing Tagged: blog, blogging, complaint, Google, hope, life, random, stats counter, stories, thoughts, Travel, twitter, updates
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 15, 2016 00:46

December 14, 2016

Langmusi: An Inspiring Spectacle but Shameful Behaviour

Second part of three. Please go >here< to go to Part 1


[image error]


Blessed Relief. I slept well with no nightmares, visitations or illnesses occurring. Phew! Must have been down to the hundreds of prayer wheels I span in place of actually finding an open monastery to exorcise my guilt.


It’s a bright crisp dazzling morning with one of those high altitude electric blue skies. As I pass the gate to the Kirti Gompa I realize I’m already out of breath, a reminder that Langmusi is three thousand three hundred metres above sea level and that the shades and hat need to stay firmly on for the day.


The monastery occupies the valley on the Sichuan side of town consisting of numerous temples of varying size, colour and age. The village-like community of small white houses follows the road towards the Namo Gorge and its breath-taking scenery is often compared to the rural Alpine areas of Austria. Nice!


[image error]


There are large stone ovens dotted across both sides of the area for burning juniper. On the crest of the hillside, from the vantage point of one of the small temples my ears pick up on a strange sound. Through the smoke haze, across the other side, at least a hundred monks are outside one of the main temples all shouting and hitting themselves. Indeed you can hear the distinctive slapping clearly and it’s one of the most bizarre sights you’ll ever see.


Making my way down, I get a closer look peering around the corner of one of the out-buildings. It’s a truly fascinating spectacle. I’m later told by some of the locals that they are actually debating particular words and text in Buddhist philosophy. They aren’t hitting themselves, rather it’s a sharp slap on the arm or clap is meant to grab the attention of the listener.


[image error]


Finding a comfortable wall some ways off, I’m able to sit back and take in the site from a distance. The morning is however, suddenly interrupted by a large number of Chinese tourists in day-glow outdoor gear, who flock to the monks like a heard of sheep. They then proceed to snap away with their cameras, mobile phones and tablets at point blank range with absolutely zero consideration for their ‘subject matter’. Some of them have telescopic zoom lenses which they shove in the faces of the monks who continue to with their debate as if the tourists aren’t there. I know for a fact though that nearly all the monks strongly dislike this. Well who wouldn’t?


[image error]


To see the monks in action (from a distance) check out my short vid on YouTube >>click here<<


I must say that I hate this behaviour with a passion having coined the phrase ‘TWAF’ or Taking (photos) Without Asking First. For a previous detailed analysis of this crap behaviour check out this post Are You a TWAF? >>click here<<. This insanely unthoughtful and shameful attitude to photography was already on full display in Xiahe when I observed a single woman in prayer outside a temple surrounded by TWAFs shooting a couple of feet away from her.


[image error]This is however, a golden opportunity to do something I’ve been meaning to do for a long time. Standing up I remove my camera from its bag and move towards them looking for my first target. Approaching the pack, I pick out a guy who is down on one knee level with a monk at head height and start taking photos of him.


“No!” he shouts, gesturing for me to move away.


“What you don’t like it? Ni bu xihuan ma?” I laugh continuing to take photos.


Standing up he moves away and repositions himself though is clearly hindered by my following him. At one point I get really close taking several shots before moving on to the next victim. By now, having clocked at what I’m doing, the group has dispersed in attempt to get away and continue shooting. I pick out another target who is holding up her tablet and get some excellent shots.


“No!” she barks, looking really pissed off. At this point I’m really enjoying myself and even a couple of the monks smile at me. Maybe they haven’t seen anyone doing this before. And so it goes on. Since this time I’ve had several quality gold star moments involving TWAFs and have been able to analyse their behaviour via video footage. Hilarious.


 


Be careful if you’re snapping away when I’m around mate I can tell you.


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, Cross China Road Trip, On the Road Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, China, Chinese, life, Photography, stories, Tibet, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 14, 2016 16:35

Campaign to Get Our Lovely Stats Counter Back

[image error]


Yesterday I woke up to see that my lovely stats counter had vanished. Not only that, but a big white square with the word ‘write’ had appeared and also a bell with a little red dot on it. AAAAAAAAAAAAAGH


[image error]


I miss my friendly little stats counter. Here’s why:



As I have my WP pages pinned to my browser, it would be the first thing I looked at whenever I started my computer up.
After a post you could see the activity immediately without having to refresh your page or go to the stats page. This was actually one of the more enjoyable things about WP just after you have just posted something. If people liked your post, it would be a great feeling to see your stats climbing.


You could click on it and your detailed stats page would instantly open on a separate link. Yes, there’s still a drop down menu from the first icon on the left of the dashboard, but for me it doesn’t open it in a separate link.

[image error]


I immediately got on to the help desk who said there was no way that this could be undone! Rot! Of course it can. He also said that things like this happen to him all the time and it doesn’t bother him. How nice! The reason for this awesomely user-friendly tool being removed is that this is the direction we are going now, aiming at users with mobile phones and tablets. Well that’s all well and good, but many of us still do use our computers right? The guy on the help desk also said that there was no official way of complaining but he would pass on my comments. Yeh right. ‘Course you will mate!


[image error]


I also resent people changing things without notification. I mean if you buy something would you be happy if someone changed it at a later date without asking? You want what it says on the tin after all.


If anyone else is as miffed as I am then please like, comment and share. I absolutely don’t believe that they can’t undo this crap intrusion into our WordPress world. I’ve never done a petition before but here it is. Seeing as there is no form of complaints then maybe this can go onto the forum if there is enough of a response.


BTW: If you drop by I won’t know as my stats counter has been removed.


[image error]


 


Be lucky. Be naughty!


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: Writing Tagged: blog, blogging, design, Google, hope, life, Photography, poetry, random, stats counter, stories, Travel, twitter, wordpress
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 14, 2016 03:18

Langmusi: An Inspiring Spectacle but Shameful Behaviour

Second part of three


[image error]


Blessed Relief. I slept well with no nightmares, visitations or illnesses occurring. Phew! Must have been down to the hundreds of prayer wheels I span in place of actually finding an open monastery to exorcise my guilt.


It’s a bright crisp dazzling morning with one of those high altitude electric blue skies. As I pass the gate to the Kirti Gompa I realize I’m already out of breath, a reminder that Langmusi is three thousand three hundred metres above sea level and that the shades and hat need to stay firmly on for the day.


The monastery occupies the valley on the Sichuan side of town consisting of numerous temples of varying size, colour and age. The village-like community of small white houses follows the road towards the Namo Gorge and its breath-taking scenery is often compared to the rural Alpine areas of Austria. Nice!


[image error]


There are large stone ovens dotted across both sides of the area for burning juniper. On the crest of the hillside, from the vantage point of one of the small temples my ears pick up on a strange sound. Through the smoke haze, across the other side, at least a hundred monks are outside one of the main temples all shouting and hitting themselves. Indeed you can hear the distinctive slapping clearly and it’s one of the most bizarre sights you’ll ever see.


Making my way down, I get a closer look peering around the corner of one of the out-buildings. It’s a truly fascinating spectacle. I’m later told by some of the locals that they are actually debating particular words and text in Buddhist philosophy. They aren’t hitting themselves, rather it’s a sharp slap on the arm or clap is meant to grab the attention of the listener.


[image error]


Finding a comfortable wall some ways off, I’m able to sit back and take in the site from a distance. The morning is however, suddenly interrupted by a large number of Chinese tourists in day-glow outdoor gear, who flock to the monks like a heard of sheep. They then proceed to snap away with their cameras, mobile phones and tablets at point blank range with absolutely zero consideration for their ‘subject matter’. Some of them have telescopic zoom lenses which they shove in the faces of the monks who continue to with their debate as if the tourists aren’t there. I know for a fact though that nearly all the monks strongly dislike this. Well who wouldn’t?


[image error]


To see the monks in action (from a distance) check out my short vid on YouTube >>click here<<


I must say that I hate this behaviour with a passion having coined the phrase ‘TWAF’ or Taking (photos) Without Asking First. For a previous detailed analysis of this crap behaviour check out this post Are You a TWAF? >>click here<<. This insanely unthoughtful and shameful attitude to photography was already on full display in Xiahe when I observed a single woman in prayer outside a temple surrounded by TWAFs shooting a couple of feet away from her.


[image error]This is however, a golden opportunity to do something I’ve been meaning to do for a long time. Standing up I remove my camera from its bag and move towards them looking for my first target. Approaching the pack, I pick out a guy who is down on one knee level with a monk at head height and start taking photos of him.


“No!” he shouts, gesturing for me to move away.


“What you don’t like it? Ni bu xihuan ma?” I laugh continuing to take photos.


Standing up he moves away and repositions himself though is clearly hindered by my following him. At one point I get really close taking several shots before moving on to the next victim. By now, having clocked at what I’m doing, the group has dispersed in attempt to get away and continue shooting. I pick out another target who is holding up her tablet and get some excellent shots.


“No!” she barks, looking really pissed off. At this point I’m really enjoying myself and even a couple of the monks smile at me. Maybe they haven’t seen anyone doing this before. And so it goes on. Since this time I’ve had several quality gold star moments involving TWAFs and have been able to analyse their behaviour via video footage. Hilarious.


 


Be careful if you’re snapping away when I’m around mate I can tell you.


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, Cross China Road Trip, On the Road Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, China, Chinese, life, Photography, stories, Tibet, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 14, 2016 00:53

December 10, 2016

Cross China Road Trip 08: Langmusi, Sky Burial Site

Langmusi: Part one of three


Langmusi 02


A few hours south of Xiahe you will find Langmusi. Though this is also a thoroughly Tibetan town there’s still a Hui Muslim and Han Chinese influence in the form of hotels, restaurants and shops. I guess being late September it’s really quiet though the occasional aging tractor clanking over the cobbled main street does break the ambience somewhat. Discharging dirty black smoke everywhere and overloaded with hay, the old farm machines are a sure reminder that this is definitely one of those ‘out there’ places.


Langmusi 01


What’s really interesting about Langmusi, is that the river denotes the border between the Sichuan and Gansu provinces therefore splitting the town right down the middle.


This means that there are two primary schools, one on each side and the kids go to different junior and senior schools. They use different electricity, different water, they have two different police stations and hospitals. Amazing hey?


There are also two monasteries complete with their surrounding communities. In the northern Sichuan side is the Sertri Gompa Monastery that slowly works its way up the side of a hill overlooking the town. To the south is the Kirti Gompa which occupies a river valley all the way up to the Namo Gorge. Honestly, if you’re ever in China and you can’t make it to Tibet, then definitely try and make it to Langmusi.


So on the first day, the Serti Gompa is at the top of the list as I really want to find the Sky Burial site. This is where the dead are cut up and fed to the vultures, their remains carried away into the sky and into the universe.


Nearing the burial site, to be honest I haven’t given it much thought as to what it’ll be like up there. Some playful kids take me up to there, but unnervingly won’t go the last kilometre, all of them looking decidedly spooked. As they leave, their absence shepherds a distinct feeling of self-consciousness which descends as noticeably as the darkened slate grey sky. Only the strong wind banging into my ears and the first few drops of rain snap me out of it.


Langmusi 03


In the fold of a steep incline a great mass of different coloured prayer flags snapping and rippling in the current reveals itself. This must be it. Then, to the left I spot the wheelchair. Some fellow travellers said that that’s the place where they perform the ritual though as I move over to take a look, the wind strangely drops. One could easily say that it’s just the imagination playing tricks but up here anything is possible.


The wheelchair is actually nothing more than a burnt out frame that sits tilted to one side in a circular fire pit. There is a large area nearby with two concave stone and wooden chopping blocks and small pools of water collected at their centres. Two old boxes lie open in the mud filled with well-worn knives and axes. This must surely be the place where they dismember the bodies and as the penny drops, I notice that the mud has transformed into a pink grey matter. An accompanying stench of purification takes me by the back of the throat and I instinctively make a grab for the cough sweets in my front pocket. Beyond the cutting area is a pile of a hundreds of bones supported by a single spine. Jaw bones, legs, ribs, an arm hangs out of the pile. A face looks up at me from the grass. Its eyes and skin are missing but the hair remains. A freshly picked skull lies to one side, fresh, pink and waxy; I have never seen the likes of this before. At an angle down the side of the hill lies a twisted torso. Skin and muscle remain hanging between the bones, solidified brown across its broken framework.


Without a second thought, I push my nausea to one side and pull out my camera and start to snap away. It’s an instinctive reaction fuelled by justification. I won’t get another chance and besides, the people I met yesterday had photos so what the heck.


The camcorder comes out next and I film at least five full minutes of the whole place before calling it a day. Some Chinese folk come up, wrapped up in their outdoor gear though they really look spooked and only take a couple of shots with their phones before vacating the premises sharpish.


Left to my own devices, as I slowly work my way down the track an overwhelming feeling of regret and fear quake through me slowing me to a snail’s pace. Mate, you shouldn’t have done that. That is some serious shit you’ve just done.


Wrestling with the whole thing I stop in my tracks. You total fucking arsehole!


As fast as I can I turn around, double-time it back up to the site and apologize holding up both cameras then delete the material. Not good enough!


I mean, what was I going to do with it anyway? Respect for the dead aside, what would the consequences of posting photos and video footage of a sacred Tibetan burial site on social media be? Not good that’s for sure. You just don’t do that and that’s all there is too it!


In an old abandoned house on the way back I cry in shame at my actions. The need to grab that impressive shot had cloaked my sensibility to the point of sub-human.


Langmusi 04


Making for the nearest temple I seek forgiveness in prayer though when I arrive the big doors are firmly locked with chain and padlock. The weather is grim, my boots now heavy with water. To another and another, each place is closed.


It’s like the Universe has deemed me unfit to enter.


Langmusi 05


Click here to watch the whole episode on YouTube > please subscribe <


 


 


 


 


Save


Save


Save


Save


Save


Filed under: China, Chinese Provinces, Cross China Road Trip, On the Road Tagged: Asia, blog, blogging, Chinese, life, Photography, stories, Tibetan, Travel, travel tales, travelogue
 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on December 10, 2016 18:44

November 25, 2016

Tibetan Monks Rescue Coal Truck

South of Lanzhou in the Gansu & Sichuan provinces, the area is largely populated by Tibetans. So I was out on a Sunday hike around the Kirti Gompa Monastery in Langmusi, when a coal truck came off the road. It took two hours for the monks to unload. It seemed everyone came out to help.


A truly unforgettable experience.





I’ve just started my Max China channel so any support you can give would be much appreciated.


Please subscribe and give us the thumbs up if you like this video. Be lucky

 •  0 comments  •  flag
Share on Twitter
Published on November 25, 2016 19:47