Marc Spagnuolo's Blog, page 29

Lorna’s Elas-tic

00:00:32 – Video starts

00:01:08 – Welcome to the WoodWhisperer Morning Show

00:02:05 – Thanks to our new Patreon subscribers

00:05:30 – What’s the difference between compressor driven guns and airless sprayers?

00:07:23 – Is there a sanding point where the wood won’t accept stain?

00:08:30 – Is Rubio Monocoat good for everyday projects / all types of wood?

00:11:32 – Sama Eyewear Plug and Thank You

00:14:25 – How do you answer the question “What do you do for a living?”

00:15:50 – What do you recommend for an outdoor deck made from cedar?

00:18:05 – Is a pre-conditioner useful on cherry before finishing?

00:19:20 – Can you make patented items for gifts for friends?

00:20:54 – Have you tried to make inlays with your CNC?

00:21:08 – Can you use a finish with stain or should you stain and then finish?

00:22:00 – How do you sharpen a knife with water stones?

00:25:10 – Do you have a favorite brush for wiping finish on projects?

00:25:55 – Have you ever had a glue joint fail?

00:28:14 – In your dust collection, do you separate chips from dust? What vent can you recommend?

00:30:35 – Do you have plans for the masks you are making?

00:31:11 – Do you have any tricks for seeing start and stop lines while routing?

00:33:00 – What’s the minimum thickness for walls on the interior of a torsion box?

00:36:10 – What’s your brand of choice for hook and loop sandpaper?

00:37:30 – Are Irwin’s parallel clamps worth the money?

00:39:45 – Is the connect 4 game still around?

00:40:48 – What double-stick tape do you use?

00:42:06 – Would you finish the Greene and Greene blanket chest differently?

00:43:05 – Is having a spiral flush-trim bit re-sharpened worth it or just buy new?

00:45:38 – What’s the best source of oak and walnut for the nesting tables project?

00:46:30 – What should I build with my extra wood?

00:47:40 – Do you have a recommendation for a bandsaw blade?

00:49:30 – Do you find yourself using one bandsaw more than the other?

00:51:25 – Why did you switch back to the Kapex miter saw?

00:52:50 – How is your mini-split working?

00:54:40 – Guild project winner! Congratulations!

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You Gotta Have Balls

00:00:41 – Video starts

00:00:50 – Thanks to our new Patreon subscribers

00:01:14 – Welcome to the Wood Whisperer Morning Show

00:02:20 – Powermatic and Jet sales!

00:02:45 – Nested table project announcement

00:04:25 – What’s your opinion on hardwood floors in the shop?

00:06:10 – Is there a standard depth for drawers?

00:07:20 – Do you have a recommendation for chisels?

00:09:45 – Is woodworking a viable profitable business?

00:13:45 – Is there anything to look for when in the market for a “curved cut” bandsaw?

00:15:02 – Do I need to line up the outfeed side of the fence on a router table as well as the infeed side?

00:16:15 – Would you stain the grandfather clock made from cherry?

00:17:55 – Did you apply soundproofing to your shop?

00:20:33 – What are some future techniques are you looking to bring to the guild?

00:23:15 – What was your first commissioned piece?

00:24:40 – Are there any tricks for finishing edge banding?

00:26:23 – Is there a video I can watch for tips on Rubio Monocoat?

00:26:50 – Website makeover!

00:27:23 – Are there any domino stand options out there?

00:29:10 – Can you go over the difference between the oil-based varnishes?

00:31:55 – What’s the best way to strip a piece for refinishing?

00:35:20 – How do you dispose of old finishes?

00:37:26 – What’s your process for applying glue to dominos?

00:39:05 – Would you hard pipe a dust collector in a smaller shop?

00:41:40 – Can you straighten warped wood?

00:43:15 – Have you ever used a tiny spokeshave?

00:45:35 – Are you still making hospital masks?

00:45:50 – What clamp did you use a miter guide?

00:47:10 – Does ipe accept glue well?

00:48:40 – What’s your favorite tabletop clips?

00:49:38 – Why did you pick a low angle smoother vs a traditional number 4 plane?

00:51:25 – Can you recommend a hobbyist table saw that can take a dado stack?

00:52:50 – Would ambrosia maple be ok for the gaming coffee table?

00:54:30 – When do you stop sanding in your finishing process?

00:58:40 – Guild project winner! Congratulations

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Where’d Everybody Go?!

00:00:33 – Video starts

00:00:47 – It’s The Woodworker Morning Show

00:03:30 – Thanks to our new Patreon subscribers

00:04:54 – How many microns should I measure to if I get an air quality monitor in my woodshop?

00:11:25 – Can you explain your finish sanding routine?

00:18:03 – Have you considered hosting gatherings/demonstrations?

00:19:18 – Can you build bookcases just of solid wood vs incorporating plywood?

00:20:55 – How can I get better results from my jigsaw?

00:22:50 – Are there standards for the dimensions of mortise and tenons?

00:24:38 – Is the PM1500 worth the upgrade over a 14 bandsaw?

00:26:35 – Nesting Table showcase

00:27:25 – What’s the most important thing to consider when planning a shop?

00:30:35 – How can I reduce fraying when using my track saw at the ends of the tracks?

00:32:54 – What’s the best way to clear waste from routers?

00:34:05 – Is there going to be a full finishing guild project?

00:36:00 – Do I “need” brad point drill bits?

00:39:20 – Are you going to do a comparison video for the two CNC’s?

00:40:50 – What are your thoughts on Walrus oil?

00:45:45 – Does raising the grain help gel stain to retain the color?

00:47:00 – What’s the coverage like on Rubio vs Osmo finishes?

00:48:50 – How much do you use the “gaming” aspect of the gaming table?

00:51:58 – Guild winner! Congratulations!

Looking for the products and tools Marc uses and recommends? You can find them at our Amazon stores:

US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer

Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer

UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

Woodworking Morning Show as an audio podcast:

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Hit ‘Em in the Nuggets

1:04 – Welcome to the Tuesday Morning Bonus Show!

1:38 – Thanks to our new Patreon Supporters! Support us on Patreon

3:55 – Marc fixed the clock!

4:54 – Marc’s important message\decision

5:36 – Will Matt or Shannon accept Marc’s pushup challenge?

6:25 – How have your woodworking, gaming and cooking skills prepared you for a post-apocalyptic world?

7:42 – Have you used Blum drawer slides? Any suggestions on soft-close slides?

9:08 – Have you ever tried to ebonize Oak or other woods?

10:16 – Have you ever used the Rockler Drawer Slide jig?

10:31 – What essential tools do you keep in your shop apron?

16:04 – Should I buy a Stanley LAJ plane or wait until I can buy a nicer one?

18:42 – Do you still like the trim you used on the drawers for the MFT Cart?

21:28 – Outside of the Domino, what tools would you stick with Festool versus other brands?

24:28 – Macassar Ebony versus Black Ebony on the blanket chest – Thoughts?

26:45 – Trying to get a modern charcoal\gray finish – Any advice on wood stains\dyes?

28:50 – How have you dealt with inefficiency in the shop over time?

33:28 – Is Marc planning on doing a Sketchup series?

34:05 – PM1500 – Measuring scale is off, how do I fix it?

37:09 – Will you consider offering CNC templates for previous guild projects?

41:10 – Can you use a Freud blade on a Kapex?

42:01 – If you are a shop teacher, email Nicole!

43:20 – How long does it take to get projects when you order them?

45:13 – What have you heard regarding newer jointer\planer combo machines? Are there drawbacks?

47:14 – Was there a design change to the wireless charging station?

47:38 – What’s the difference between the Chest of Drawers and the Modern Chest of Drawers in the guild?

49:00 – Marc and Nicole give away a few things!

50:16 – Any reason I can’t use the shop cabinet plans for a miter station?

51:40 – Marc and Nicole give away more free things!

52:30 – What did Marc use to refinish the knockdown trestle table?

53:28 – I am designing a headboard, how should I attach the Balusters?

55:20 – Building a dining table with White Oak – Is Rubio a good finish option? Will it hold up?

57:45 – Where does Marc order his screws from?

58:38 – Have you ever considered buying a Mirka sander?

61:22 – Building drawers for a murphy bed – Can I use slides on the bottom instead of the sides?

64:10 – Thank You for inspiring others to help make masks for the hospitals

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Online learning for Woodworking?

As a family with two young children, we know the challenges our teachers are facing as they transition to online learning. And shop teachers have the additional challenge of a topic that usually requires in-person instruction and hands-on experiences. You may or may not be aware that we accept donations throughout the year for a Guild scholarship fund and now we���re using those funds to supply shop teachers with opportunities for online learning. If you know a shop teacher who is struggling with this transition and who could make use of Guild projects for their students, please send them our way. Have them email Nicole mailto:nicole@thewoodwhisperer.com��and we���ll do our best to accommodate their needs. If you would like to donate to the��scholarship program, please do. I have a feeling we are going to get more requests in the coming weeks as schools likely won’t resume any time soon. We���ll make a public post in the future thanking everyone involved in the effort. – Be Safe, Be Kind, Be Well. Marc & Nicole

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How to Apply Rubio Monocoat to Furniture

Rubio Monocoat has been around for quite some time now and I remember receiving a sample over 10 years ago back when epoxy was an adhesive and before slabs were discovered (sarcasm). Because the product boasted incredible levels of protection from something that appeared to be a simple oil, I pretty much dismissed it. Understand that at the time, I was doing a lot of client work and I was heavy into the HVLP game. An oil, no matter how advanced, just wouldn’t provide the protection and longevity of the film-forming finishes I preferred at the time. Since then, my preferences and sensibilities have changed and now I’m continually searching for the safest and most effective finish strategies. After using Rubio on numerous projects including a floor and millwork in my own home, I have to say I’m a convert. And while Rubio is a great product, it’s certainly not the only game in town and I have a renewed respect for what the world of hardwax oils can offer. By the way, Osmo is another product I like a lot and maybe I’ll do a similar application video on that in the future. Please note that this is not a sponsored video but I have received a couple of cans of finish from Rubio in the past.

Stuff I Use

Rubio Monocoat
Universal Maintenance Oil
Plastic Spreaders��
Festool Vlies (White Abrasive Pads)
White Scouring Pads (Scotchbrite or similar)
Terry Cloth Polishing Bonnets��
A Reasonably-Priced Buffer

Videos Referenced

Knock-Down Trestle Table Build – https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...
Step Stool Build – https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...
Wiping Varnish Shootout – https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...
Art Easel – https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vide...


Applying Rubio Monocoat

Applying Rubio is a simple 4-step process. The tools and techniques you use to accomplish these steps can vary.

Prep the surface
Spread the Finish
Buff the Finish
Remove the Excess

To prep the surface, sand through the grits to 180. Rubio usually recommend not sanding past 150 because the oil binds more effectively at lower grits. I sand to 180 and haven’t found it to be a problem. After 180, water-pop the surface by spraying liberally with water. After it dries, sand lightly again with 180 to knock down the raised grain. Vacuum the surface with a vacuum and brush attachment then wipe the surface down with a cloth and some mineral spirits.

Mix 3 parts of the Oil Plus 2C A with 1 part of the Oil Plus 2C B. Be careful not to mix more than you need. A little bit goes a long way. I usually use Pure which is essentially clear. Rubio comes in various colors and don’t be confused by their Natural product, as it is NOT clear. By the way, you don���t have to use the accelerator. The finish will just take longer to cure: 3 weeks vs 7 days with the accelerator.

Drizzle the finish on the surface and use a plastic spreader or white scotch bright to spread the finish over the surface. Don’t do anything you can’t finish within 15 minutes. Any longer than that and the finish becomes hard to remove. Once coated, buff the finish in using a white pad on a sander or manually with a white scotch bright pad. This step not only helps spread the finish but also helps drive it deeper into the wood.

The final step is to remove all traces of finish from the surface. I use a small buffer with a terry cloth bonnet installed when possible. When not possible I just use clean shop rags. The way Rubio works, the wood takes what it wants and anything else left on the surface is just a liability as it tends to get sticky and gummy. So after the cleanup step I���ll take a clean cotton cloth and quickly go over the surface one last time. This isn���t always necessary but sometimes you���ll find a spot you missed so it���s a good safeguard.

Now let the piece sit for 24 hrs before handling and remember, it takes 7 days to fully cure.

While this single coat is all you need, I personally like to take it one step further by using their Universal Maintenance Oil, applied exactly the same way the next day. If you���re coming from the world of film finishes, this step will make you much happier with the appearance as it gives it just a bit more of a sheen.

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Projects to Build with/for Kids

We know people are at home with their kids looking for things to do. So we decided to collect all of our kid-friendly projects in one place for your convenience.

Kids Table & Chair Set – Free Plan and Post

���

Cook or Bake with your kids! –��Kids Kitchen Step Stool – Free Plan and Post

Mini Trebuchet – Free Plan and Post

Castle Bookcase – Free Plan and Post

4-In-A-Row Game – Free Plan and Post

Grasshopper Pull Toy – Free Plan and Post

Artist���s Easel – Free Plan and Post

Make a Kid Size Maui���s Hook From a 2��4 – Free Plan and Post

Multi-Function Toy Chest – Free Plan and Post

Scrapwood Jewelry Boxes – Free Plan and Post

Rocking Horse – Free Plan from Wood Magazine here

Pencil Holders – Free Sketch Up Plan

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Mini Trebuchet

Stuck in the house with the kids? Us too. So we’re passing the time by doing something fun and productive, like building this sweet Mini Trebuchet! The project is made using basic tools (Saw, Drill, and Hand Saws) and is glued together with Titebond Quick & Thick so we’re not waiting around for parts to dry. You’ll also need some 1/2″ thick wood or plywood, string, a couple of screw eyes, and a thin metal or wood dowel. A quick trip to the hardware store and you should have everything you need.

You can built this project in an afternoon with the kids. It’s a great way to pass the time. Just be sure you don’t launch anything that can poke out an eye.

Download the FREE Plan here: Mini-Trebuchet Plan

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A Case of the Runs

00:00:33 - Video starts
00:00:50 - It's The Woodworking Morning Show
00:01:54 - Thanks to our new Patreon subscribers
https://www.patreon.com/woodwhisperer
00:04:15 - Premium project plans

Store

00:08:10 - Egyptian Magic plug
00:09:35 - Are you stocking up on building materials due to potential closures.
00:11:13 - Have you ever made a roll top desk mechanism for cupboards?
00:12:13 - Can you spray Danish oil?
00:15:20 - Can I seal in finishes to prevent off-gassing in the interior of drawers?
00:19:00 - How can I get the best result of a panel glueup?

00:20:30 - Would you recommend a track saw square or a larger square if budget allows for one?
00:21:55 - How much room should I leave on every side of my table saw?
00:24:30 - What oversized pattern bit would you recommend?

Big Daddy Gold

Essential Joinery Book

00:28:35 - How can I promote even clamping when gluing up two 4/4 boards to make an 8/4?
00:31:40 - How can I handle nosy neighbors if I work with the garage door open?
00:34:15 - Are there any lathe projects in the future?

Nesting Tables

00:35:14 - Why is woodworking so addictive?
00:37:30 - What would you do if you found yourself with an abundance of shop time?
https://jtwood.works/
00:40:25 - How can I get my pictures added on the free site?
00:43:05 - How can I finish coasters made from maple, padauk, and purpleheart?
00:44:50 - When are you going to put up more guild projects?

Changes for 2020

00:46:50 - Any update on the budget tool project?
00:50:30 - Any update on the card scrapers?
https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/pro...

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10 Tips for Wide Panels that Stay FLAT

Panel glueups seem easy but a lot of folks are in for a rude awakening when the panel doesn���t stay flat. Here are 10 tips and tricks that should help stack the cards in your favor for a nice flat glueup.

1. Use stable, dry wood.

Inspect your boards for cups or twists and try to find boards that are already mostly flat. A heavily-twisted board can be milled flat, but there’s a good chance it will return to that warped state so it���s not a good candidate for a panel. Also, be sure the wood is dry and well-acclimated to your shop environment. I like to make sure my boards are in my shop for a few weeks before incorporating them into a panel.�� ��

2. Consider the grain.

Great looking panels don���t happen accidentally. Make your grain arrangement purposeful. Most times I try to orient the grain so it gives the illusion of a single panel. On my executive desk I took it a step further by intentionally butting up sapwood to sapwood so that the joint became harder to see. Sometimes I’ll also create a bookmatch pattern, such as with crotch wood, to make the joint part of the design.

3. Mill the boards evenly.

When milling your boards, make an effort to count the number of passes so that you remove the same amount of material from each face. This should help keep the board balanced as it acclimates to the environment. Wood is a lot like a sponge. It readily absorbs moisture. And as it dries, there���s more moisture deep inside than there is at the surface. As long as it picks up and loses moisture evenly, it stays relatively flat. But if we take too many passes on one face of a board, it knocks it out of equilibrium and the board will cup. Any time we have more moisture on one side than the other, there���s a potential for cupping.

4. Ensure 90 degree edges.

Don���t just look at the fence of your jointer. Look at the wood itself after jointing. Many jointer fences aren���t perfect so it���s the result of the cut that really matters. Your fence doesn���t actually need to be at a perfect 90 if you joint your boards in such a way that it negates the angle. When you unfold them, they will offset each other.

5. Use alignment aids to help keep your boards flush.

With glue in the joint, the boards will slip and slide around and it can be hard to keep the boards flush, especially on larger glue-ups. If you use biscuits, dowels, dominos, or even a splines and tongue and groove joints, you can make your life a LOT easier as the boards will stay nice and flush during the glueup. On smaller panels, you can actually just use a clamp at each joint to keep the panels flush. On larger panels you might also consider using cauls. These are simple strips of wood that are coated in wax or packing tape to prevent the glue from sticking. They sandwich the glueup making sure everything stays flat. You also might want to look into cambered caul, where there���s a slight hill in the middle. The advantage here is that just by clamping the outsides of the cauls, you���ll have a great deal of pressure at the center too, which is very effective on big glueups where you can���t get clamping pressure in the center of the panel.

6. Use a glue that matches the color of the wood.

Glue comes in a lot of different colors and if you use one that���s close to the color of your lumber, you can further help disguise the joint. And did you know you can add dye to glue to get custom colors? Sometime I add Transtint dyes to get a unique color.

7. Clamp properly.

First, make sure you use enough clamps. A good rule of thumb is to space the clamps on the 45’s. If you imagine the clamping pressure spreading out at a 45 degree angle in both directions, you simply make sure there are no uncovered areas. Narrow boards require more clamps and wider boards require fewer clamps.Because clamps can sometimes put uneven pressure on joints, I like to alternate my clamp orientation too.

When applying pressure, especially when you don���t have alignment aids, start with a small amount of pressure at each clamp. This allows the glue to squeeze out and gives the boards a chance to get grippy while still staying flat. Clamp too fast on any one clamp and the pieces will just slide around.

8. Scrape the excess glue.

If you let the glue dry on the surface and then try to scrape it away, the glue drops can take some wood with them. So I like to give my panels at least 30 minutes to set up before scraping away the glue. At this point, the glue is still flexible and comes off easily with a putty knife without tearing out wood or spreading glue all over the place. Be sure to remove the glue from between the clamp bar and the wood to help prevent staining.

9. Let panels rest on end, not on a face.

Inevitably you���ll need to leave your panels overnight and this is where the surprises can sometimes happen. I like to let my panels breathe so I prop them up slightly or rest them on their side. This helps provide even air flow on all sides of the panel and promotes flatness. If for some reason you need to leave the panels for an extended period of time, consider stretch wrapping. The plastic will slow down the penetration of moisture into the wood and the pressure of the bundle will help encourage flatness. With any luck, the panels will be nice and flat when you���re ready for them. Keep in mind if you���re in a very humid shop, you���ll want to watch for moisture accumulation and mold. In Denver, this just isn���t a problem. And while the stretch wrap can buy you a couple of days or weeks, you really don���t want to let the panels sit around for a long time. Try to minimize the time between the glueup and the incorporation into your project.

10. Don���t rush!

Don���t be in a hurry to sand your panel. Even though I might take my panels out of the clamps after a few hours, I don���t sand them for at least a day. Remember, most of the glue we use is water-based. That water absorbs into the fibers and causes the area around the glue line to swell. If you sand while it���s swollen, it may be flat for a while but once the remaining moisture leaves the glue line and the fibers shrink back to normal, you���ll actually end up with a groove in the surface. So it���s best to give the panel a day or two to cure before tackling the final surface prep.

So those are my top 10 tips for better panels. There are lots of other strategies and here���s some honorable mentions that you might consider:

Protect your clamps. Lay down paper or tape on clamp to prevent your clamps from getting all gunked up. At the very least, wax them periodically so the glue pops right off.
Consider sprung joints. This classic method for joining panels can be handy if you���re short on clamps. A little dip is created in each joining edge, allowing you to use a single clamp at the center of the panel and getting nice even pressure across the entire joint.
Don���t starve the joint of glue. If you don���t see squeezout, you���re not using enough. At the same time, don���t be wasteful. If it���s dripping all over the place, you���re just wasting glue.
If you have the time and material thickness, consider a partial mill process where you flatten the board, let it sit for a few days, then go back and flatten it again just before glueup.

Now here are some things you may have heard about, that I don���t think are that important:

You must have glue on both mating surfaces. I usually try to coat both surfaces but it���s not the end of the world if I don���t. I just make sure I put a little extra so there���s enough to go around.
You should clamp the shit out of the panel. You only need to clamp enough to close the joint and cause squeezout. If you���re straining to tighten each clamp, something is wrong. Good consistent pressure is all you need.
You have to alternate end grain. I don���t bother. My goal is to get the best presentation possible on the face of the panel. The end grain is secondary. The thinking here is that alternating end grain will help the overall panel stay flat if/when the panels cup according to their nature. So instead of one big cup, you end up with a wavy surface. Should this ever occur, I���d much rather have one big cup that can hopefully be tamed by attachment to a solid base, rather than a washboard effect.

All of this advice is just my personal opinion from my own experience. And as we know in woodworking, there���s almost always more than one right answer. I hope this list helps you achieve stable flat panels. Remember, wood is a natural product. In spite of your best efforts, sometimes, the wood is dumb and just does what it wants to do. So don���t be too hard on yourself if things go sideways at some point.

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