Matthew Houde's Blog, page 40
September 20, 2013
Manuel Antonio Trip Planning
Just a couple of hours from Costa Rica’s Juan Santamaría international airport lies the popular beach town of Manuel Antonio. Thousands flock to Playa Espadilla and its surrounding sands each year, drawn by breathtaking views of the Pacific and pristine, gray sand beaches. Although a wide array of hotels, restaurants, and other tourism businesses have sprung up along the forested hills, Manuel Antonio has managed to strike a fine balance between development and nature. You might be staying at a luxury hotel with all of the amenities but that won’t stop troops of monkeys from pattering across your roof or iguanas from sunning themselves at the pool.
We’ve spent a lot of time in Manuel Antonio, both vacationing and, most recently, living there. Below we share some essential tips for planning your visit along with a list of our favorite area restaurants and attractions.
Orientation
Manuel Antonio is about 160 kilometers (100 miles) southeast of Costa Rica’s capital city of San José, on the central Pacific coast. The town has one, almost mountainous, main road that climbs from the small city of Quepos, flattens a bit at the top, and then descends to the beach near Manuel Antonio National Park.
When to Visit
The dry season, which runs from December to April, has the best weather and is the busiest time of year. During popular vacation weeks, especially the week between Christmas and New Year’s, the area can get somewhat congested. If you visit then, expect the beach to be near capacity, with tourists escaping the chill of winter and local families gathering to celebrate the holidays.
To avoid the crowds, plan your visit during the hedge months of May, June, or July. Although you might get an afternoon downpour, the rainy season doesn’t get too intense until later in August. As a reward for putting up with some wet weather, you’ll enjoy lower hotel rates, more towel space at the beach, and the rainforest at its lushest.
Getting There
Car or Shuttle: If you want the freedom to stop and go as you please, a rental car is a good option. San José has plenty of rental companies to choose from and rates are fairly reasonable, ranging from $40-80 per day for a four-wheel drive SUV. The drive time from San José is about two and a half to three hours. In recent years, Costa Rica has considerably improved the route from the capital to the central Pacific, so you’ll enjoy smooth travel along paved highways—that is, unless there is construction, which is always a possibility. If you prefer the convenience of a shuttle, check out Gray Line and Interbus (both about $45).
Taxi: Taxis from the airport are not cheap. Official taxis will run the meter and you should expect to pay anywhere from $150 to upwards of $200. For this reason, arranging a shuttle or private transfer is your best bet.
Public Bus: The public bus is a great way to save some cash and will let you mingle with the locals. It’s about a three and a half hour trip from San José and costs about $8. Be sure to take a direct bus (“directo”) which makes fewer stops than collective (“collectivo”) buses. The bus will drop you off at the main station in Quepos where you can connect to the local Manuel Antonio–Quepos bus for 280 colones (about $0.60). Watch out for pickpockets when retrieving your bags from under the bus. Although crime is not too common in Costa Rica, petty theft does happen, especially in busy areas like bus stations.
Dining
Manuel Antonio has dozens of restaurants offering everything from international cuisine like Thai, sushi, and falafel to American fare and fresh off-the-boat seafood. Because these restaurants cater mainly to tourists, prices are on the high end for Costa Rica, with dinner entrees ranging from $8 to up to $20. But like most areas of Costa Rica, there are options for the budget traveler as well.
Ronny’s Place, Restaurante y Mirador Mi Lugar: This open-air restaurant situated on a peninsula overlooking the ocean has one of the best views of sunset around. You have to work a little to get there, but the vista, fun atmosphere, and good food is worth it. As you drive up the hill from Quepos, look for Amigos del Rio rafting and kayaking company on the left. Take a right and follow the bumpy dirt road for 800 meters.
La Luna Restaurant at Gaia Hotel and Reserve: For fine dining and first-class service, head to La Luna Restaurant at the luxury Gaia Hotel. You will be whisked away by friendly hotel staff on a golf cart to the plush open-air restaurant on top of the hill. Enjoy a gourmet dinner or, if you’re on a budget, get the experience for less with tapas ($2-3.50 per dish) and 2-for-1 cocktails from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. in the lounge.
Mar Luna : A Costan Rican friend recommended Mar Luna on one of our first visits for a romantic night out. Mar Luna delivered. This rustic restaurant isn’t fancy by any means, but the warm wooden decor, candlelight, and beautiful ocean view is guaranteed to set the mood. Don’t leave without sampling the seafood, it’s their specialty.
Barba Roja: Barba Roja has been a go-to restaurant in Manuel Antonio since 1975. If you’re not lured in by the aroma of their smoked ribs, you probably will be by their friendly staff. Tuesdays are a big draw with 2-for-1 burger night and live music. Good food, good music, and good staff are staples here but the view isn’t bad either. At sunset, you can watch the sun sink into the Pacific while eating tasty morsels of sushi, juicy beef tenderloin, or tropical desserts.
El Avión: If you’re wondering why a US military plane sits as if it crashed into the hillside of Manuel Antonio, you’re not alone. The story behind El Avión can be found on the back of their menu and reading it is a good excuse to sit down for some great food and drink. Before you leave, make sure to take some selfies in the plane’s cockpit which is also the bar.
El Patio de Café Milagro: For the freshest cup of coffee in town, head to local roaster Café Milagro. Café Milagro serves up creative dishes with local ingredients for three meals a day, but if you’re going for your morning cup of joe, try one of their tasty breakfast offerings like banana pancakes or mango crepes—they are delicious.
Sol Frozen Yogurt: Looking for something in between meals? For a sweet treat that won’t break the bank or your waistline, head to Sol Frozen Yogurt. Serving up new flavors all the time, you can bet you’ll find something here that will dazzle your taste buds.
Marlin: If you need a frosty beverage after a long hot day in the sun, get off your towel and head across the street to the beachfront Marlin restaurant. With 2-for-1 happy hour from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., Marlin fills up quickly with thirsty gringos looking to kick back with a cold one. While other restaurants on the beach have come and gone, Marlin has been there for years, serving up solid, casual fare for the whole family.
Restaurant Junior: Quepos has many excellent mom and pop restaurants (known locally as sodas) where you can get a hearty, typical meal on a shoestring budget. Restaurant Junior, across from the bus station, is one of our favorites. Pull up a chair with the locals for a delicious lunch plate (casado) of meat or seafood, beans and rice, and vegetable sides ($5-8).
Pizza Pata: Had enough rice and beans? Surprise your palate at Pizza Pata. Their rectangular pizza is sold by the meter and comes with yummy homemade dipping sauces like pesto and spicy oil. They don’t serve alcohol but will be happy to run over to the soda next door to grab you an Imperial. Delivery available.
Salsipuedes: Kick back with a guaro sour at this relaxing tapas bar on top of the hill. Portions on the tapas are big and good for sharing. Our favorites were the black bean soup, tuna sashimi, and tuna poke.
Tropical Sushi: For authentic sushi, Tico style, head to Tropical Sushi in Quepos. The Japanese owner serves up all of the usual offerings and puts a Latin spin on some of the classics with fresh, local ingredients.
Activities
Manuel Antonio is a convenient jumping off point for almost any tour you would want to do in Costa Rica. Zip-lining, ATV tours, white-water rafting, mangrove tours, kayaking, parasailing, horseback riding, mountain biking, jet skiing, sportfishing, sunset cruising, surfing, snorkeling, whale watching, birding, and even segway tours are available. Below are some more can’t miss activities as well as some lesser known excursions that might not be in your guidebook.
Manuel Antonio National Park: You can’t come to Manuel Antonio without visiting its famous national park. With sloths, monkeys, and exotic birds along even the main trail, you won’t have to look hard to find wildlife. This park gets busy during the high season, and with a cap on the number of visitors per day, it’s best to arrive early. Read our blog for more information.
Kids Saving the Rainforest : This organization is doing some amazing work to help ensure that Manuel Antonio’s development doesn’t harm local wildlife. They rescue and treat injured animals like monkeys and sloths and have made great strides towards increasing the population of the endangered Titi monkey. You will probably see some of their monkey bridges hanging over the road on your visit. Tours can be made by contacting Hotel Mono Azul. Volunteering programs are also available.
Playa Biesanz: If the riptides at the main beach have you seeking safe harbor, try Playa Biesanz, a calm cove with sparkling aquamarine water and picturesque views. To get there, take a right off of the main road at the top of the hill going towards La Mariposa hotel. Follow the road almost to the end. The “entrance,” which is really just an opening in a fence, is at the very bottom of the hill about 100 meters from the Parador Resort & Spa. It’s about a ten minute walk through the woods to reach the beach, but we swear, it’s worth it.
Quepos Feria (farmer’s market): Take a stroll through the feria along the seawall to see local farmers hocking mammon chino, tamarindo, guanabana, and other exotic fruits and veggies you probably have never heard of. Cheese heads should be sure to make a stop at the artisanal cheese stand—their camembert is amazing! The market is open Fridays in the afternoon starting at 4:00 p.m. and Saturday mornings until about 2:00 p.m.
There is much more in Manuel Antonio than we could possibly fit in this blog. With all of these opportunities for adventure and good food, one could easily spend a week, two weeks, or more exploring and enjoying the area. When we used to vacation in Costa Rica, we always made sure that Manuel Antonio was one of our stops, and now that we live here, we visit whenever we can.
* * * Have you been to Manuel Antonio? What was the most memorable part of your visit? Leave a comment below, we'd love to hear about it.
One of our most memorable Manuel Antonio experiences was when Matt was pickpocketed at the Quepos bus station and the thief actually gave his wallet back (without the cash, of course)! Read about more of our follies and adventures in Two Weeks in Costa Rica.
We’ve spent a lot of time in Manuel Antonio, both vacationing and, most recently, living there. Below we share some essential tips for planning your visit along with a list of our favorite area restaurants and attractions.
Orientation
Manuel Antonio is about 160 kilometers (100 miles) southeast of Costa Rica’s capital city of San José, on the central Pacific coast. The town has one, almost mountainous, main road that climbs from the small city of Quepos, flattens a bit at the top, and then descends to the beach near Manuel Antonio National Park.
When to Visit
The dry season, which runs from December to April, has the best weather and is the busiest time of year. During popular vacation weeks, especially the week between Christmas and New Year’s, the area can get somewhat congested. If you visit then, expect the beach to be near capacity, with tourists escaping the chill of winter and local families gathering to celebrate the holidays.
To avoid the crowds, plan your visit during the hedge months of May, June, or July. Although you might get an afternoon downpour, the rainy season doesn’t get too intense until later in August. As a reward for putting up with some wet weather, you’ll enjoy lower hotel rates, more towel space at the beach, and the rainforest at its lushest.
Getting There
Car or Shuttle: If you want the freedom to stop and go as you please, a rental car is a good option. San José has plenty of rental companies to choose from and rates are fairly reasonable, ranging from $40-80 per day for a four-wheel drive SUV. The drive time from San José is about two and a half to three hours. In recent years, Costa Rica has considerably improved the route from the capital to the central Pacific, so you’ll enjoy smooth travel along paved highways—that is, unless there is construction, which is always a possibility. If you prefer the convenience of a shuttle, check out Gray Line and Interbus (both about $45).
Taxi: Taxis from the airport are not cheap. Official taxis will run the meter and you should expect to pay anywhere from $150 to upwards of $200. For this reason, arranging a shuttle or private transfer is your best bet.
Public Bus: The public bus is a great way to save some cash and will let you mingle with the locals. It’s about a three and a half hour trip from San José and costs about $8. Be sure to take a direct bus (“directo”) which makes fewer stops than collective (“collectivo”) buses. The bus will drop you off at the main station in Quepos where you can connect to the local Manuel Antonio–Quepos bus for 280 colones (about $0.60). Watch out for pickpockets when retrieving your bags from under the bus. Although crime is not too common in Costa Rica, petty theft does happen, especially in busy areas like bus stations.
Dining
Manuel Antonio has dozens of restaurants offering everything from international cuisine like Thai, sushi, and falafel to American fare and fresh off-the-boat seafood. Because these restaurants cater mainly to tourists, prices are on the high end for Costa Rica, with dinner entrees ranging from $8 to up to $20. But like most areas of Costa Rica, there are options for the budget traveler as well.
Ronny’s Place, Restaurante y Mirador Mi Lugar: This open-air restaurant situated on a peninsula overlooking the ocean has one of the best views of sunset around. You have to work a little to get there, but the vista, fun atmosphere, and good food is worth it. As you drive up the hill from Quepos, look for Amigos del Rio rafting and kayaking company on the left. Take a right and follow the bumpy dirt road for 800 meters.
La Luna Restaurant at Gaia Hotel and Reserve: For fine dining and first-class service, head to La Luna Restaurant at the luxury Gaia Hotel. You will be whisked away by friendly hotel staff on a golf cart to the plush open-air restaurant on top of the hill. Enjoy a gourmet dinner or, if you’re on a budget, get the experience for less with tapas ($2-3.50 per dish) and 2-for-1 cocktails from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. in the lounge.
Mar Luna : A Costan Rican friend recommended Mar Luna on one of our first visits for a romantic night out. Mar Luna delivered. This rustic restaurant isn’t fancy by any means, but the warm wooden decor, candlelight, and beautiful ocean view is guaranteed to set the mood. Don’t leave without sampling the seafood, it’s their specialty.
Barba Roja: Barba Roja has been a go-to restaurant in Manuel Antonio since 1975. If you’re not lured in by the aroma of their smoked ribs, you probably will be by their friendly staff. Tuesdays are a big draw with 2-for-1 burger night and live music. Good food, good music, and good staff are staples here but the view isn’t bad either. At sunset, you can watch the sun sink into the Pacific while eating tasty morsels of sushi, juicy beef tenderloin, or tropical desserts.
El Avión: If you’re wondering why a US military plane sits as if it crashed into the hillside of Manuel Antonio, you’re not alone. The story behind El Avión can be found on the back of their menu and reading it is a good excuse to sit down for some great food and drink. Before you leave, make sure to take some selfies in the plane’s cockpit which is also the bar.
El Patio de Café Milagro: For the freshest cup of coffee in town, head to local roaster Café Milagro. Café Milagro serves up creative dishes with local ingredients for three meals a day, but if you’re going for your morning cup of joe, try one of their tasty breakfast offerings like banana pancakes or mango crepes—they are delicious.
Sol Frozen Yogurt: Looking for something in between meals? For a sweet treat that won’t break the bank or your waistline, head to Sol Frozen Yogurt. Serving up new flavors all the time, you can bet you’ll find something here that will dazzle your taste buds.
Marlin: If you need a frosty beverage after a long hot day in the sun, get off your towel and head across the street to the beachfront Marlin restaurant. With 2-for-1 happy hour from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., Marlin fills up quickly with thirsty gringos looking to kick back with a cold one. While other restaurants on the beach have come and gone, Marlin has been there for years, serving up solid, casual fare for the whole family.
Restaurant Junior: Quepos has many excellent mom and pop restaurants (known locally as sodas) where you can get a hearty, typical meal on a shoestring budget. Restaurant Junior, across from the bus station, is one of our favorites. Pull up a chair with the locals for a delicious lunch plate (casado) of meat or seafood, beans and rice, and vegetable sides ($5-8).
Pizza Pata: Had enough rice and beans? Surprise your palate at Pizza Pata. Their rectangular pizza is sold by the meter and comes with yummy homemade dipping sauces like pesto and spicy oil. They don’t serve alcohol but will be happy to run over to the soda next door to grab you an Imperial. Delivery available.
Salsipuedes: Kick back with a guaro sour at this relaxing tapas bar on top of the hill. Portions on the tapas are big and good for sharing. Our favorites were the black bean soup, tuna sashimi, and tuna poke.
Tropical Sushi: For authentic sushi, Tico style, head to Tropical Sushi in Quepos. The Japanese owner serves up all of the usual offerings and puts a Latin spin on some of the classics with fresh, local ingredients.
Activities
Manuel Antonio is a convenient jumping off point for almost any tour you would want to do in Costa Rica. Zip-lining, ATV tours, white-water rafting, mangrove tours, kayaking, parasailing, horseback riding, mountain biking, jet skiing, sportfishing, sunset cruising, surfing, snorkeling, whale watching, birding, and even segway tours are available. Below are some more can’t miss activities as well as some lesser known excursions that might not be in your guidebook.
Manuel Antonio National Park: You can’t come to Manuel Antonio without visiting its famous national park. With sloths, monkeys, and exotic birds along even the main trail, you won’t have to look hard to find wildlife. This park gets busy during the high season, and with a cap on the number of visitors per day, it’s best to arrive early. Read our blog for more information.
Kids Saving the Rainforest : This organization is doing some amazing work to help ensure that Manuel Antonio’s development doesn’t harm local wildlife. They rescue and treat injured animals like monkeys and sloths and have made great strides towards increasing the population of the endangered Titi monkey. You will probably see some of their monkey bridges hanging over the road on your visit. Tours can be made by contacting Hotel Mono Azul. Volunteering programs are also available.
Playa Biesanz: If the riptides at the main beach have you seeking safe harbor, try Playa Biesanz, a calm cove with sparkling aquamarine water and picturesque views. To get there, take a right off of the main road at the top of the hill going towards La Mariposa hotel. Follow the road almost to the end. The “entrance,” which is really just an opening in a fence, is at the very bottom of the hill about 100 meters from the Parador Resort & Spa. It’s about a ten minute walk through the woods to reach the beach, but we swear, it’s worth it.
Quepos Feria (farmer’s market): Take a stroll through the feria along the seawall to see local farmers hocking mammon chino, tamarindo, guanabana, and other exotic fruits and veggies you probably have never heard of. Cheese heads should be sure to make a stop at the artisanal cheese stand—their camembert is amazing! The market is open Fridays in the afternoon starting at 4:00 p.m. and Saturday mornings until about 2:00 p.m.
There is much more in Manuel Antonio than we could possibly fit in this blog. With all of these opportunities for adventure and good food, one could easily spend a week, two weeks, or more exploring and enjoying the area. When we used to vacation in Costa Rica, we always made sure that Manuel Antonio was one of our stops, and now that we live here, we visit whenever we can.
* * * Have you been to Manuel Antonio? What was the most memorable part of your visit? Leave a comment below, we'd love to hear about it.
One of our most memorable Manuel Antonio experiences was when Matt was pickpocketed at the Quepos bus station and the thief actually gave his wallet back (without the cash, of course)! Read about more of our follies and adventures in Two Weeks in Costa Rica.
September 4, 2013
Living in Costa Rica: One Month Update
We’ve been living in Costa Rica for over a month now and are gradually adjusting to the changes we mentioned in our previous update. Even though we’ve been here for quite some time, many friends and family continue to ask, “Does it still feel like vacation?” Well, no, but we’re not sure that it ever did. With a tight monthly budget—don’t forget that we quit our day jobs—we haven’t indulged in too many tourist activities. Now that we are settling in though, we are finding our own ways to enjoy the paradise surrounding us. A trip to the beach here, an ice-cream cone there, plenty of beautiful wildlife, and a happy-hour drink or two, all help to keep our spirits high. Overall we are doing great, having fun, and starting to live a lot more pura vida, which is why we came here in the first place. Below are some of our biggest struggles and accomplishments so far.
Challenges
Probably our biggest adjustment in Costa Rica so far has been the pure lack of convenience. Looking back, everything in the States was so easy. If you needed something, it was there. A quick stop to the store for this, a few clicks of the computer for that, and those big box stores that we thought we hated, those were awesome! Where we live in Costa Rica, things are a lot simpler. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, and we definitely don’t want a Target store going up in the middle of the jungle, but common, routine tasks seem to eat up our entire day. Doing one load of laundry takes a few hours. We have a washing machine but here is how it works. First you wash the clothes, drain them, move them to the spinner, spin, put them back in for a rinse, spin again, and finally hang to dry. Drying is a joke; did we mention that it’s the rainy season? Our clothesline never gets direct sunlight because it rains almost every afternoon, so the clothes never fully dry. Then when they’re folded and put away, they mildew and the process repeats.
Buying a wireless router was another adventure that took us an entire afternoon. Yes, Costa Rica does have such things, but the shops near us are small, local businesses that have a little of this and a little of that. It’s great because you see a lot of the same faces when you go in, but it will probably take us years to learn where to go for what we need. Luckily, during our hunt we ran into our very nice landlord who pointed us in the right direction and saved us countless hours of searching.
Not having a car was a continuation of the above convenience problem. Riding the bus took forever. The other day the road to Quepos (the small city nearby) was down to only one lane because workers were installing new telephone poles, digging the holes by hand. The bus driver eventually had to turn off the engine and just wait, right as Jenn was about to pass out from the diesel exhaust fumes. We eventually got to where we needed to go but were glad that we weren’t trying to make an appointment or a bus connection. Luckily this past weekend, we finally purchased a car (separate exciting post coming soon).
Accomplishments
One of the major struggles we faced in our first update was food, figuring out what to eat and how to cook it. Well, my stomach and I are happy to report that Jenn has taken the lead and become an inspired cocinara (cook). She was back home too but has taken it to a new level here. For a while I thought we might have to live off corn chips and coffee but now it’s more like banana pancakes with coffee caramel sauce, fish tacos with mango salsa, and black bean soup with gently fried eggs. My favorite is the homemade granola bars with dried fruit. I even pitched in the other night to give her a break, cooking some spicy Thai noodles. The biggest part of our struggle with food, as you might remember, was getting the right ingredients. We’ve since thrown that out the door and started to improvise. Instead of buying expensive Thai chili paste, we used the blender and inexpensive fresh chilies to make our own. Instead of maple syrup (they don’t have the real stuff here), Jenn made her own caramel syrup. Things like that. The other night was Jenn’s ultimate triumph. She cooked dinner for a group of four Ticos, including our friend Roy, at our studio. Mojo marinated chicken fajitas with homemade salsa and guacamole. I knew she was stressed and nervous to serve the locals but when everyone had a second helping we both knew that victory was hers.
Jenn with her apron on, ready to cook. Settling into a work routine also has been somewhat successful. We get about a B minus on this one. We’ve started treating weekends like weekends and weekdays like workdays (when we’re not doing laundry). Blogging, book marketing, writing, and studying Spanish have all kept us busy during the days and we try to relax in the evenings by watching movies, having a cocktail, or reading up on the news back home.
Shaking off the isolation has been another recent accomplishment. Living with one another in a tiny studio which is also our office has been fine for the most part. But with very few friends here and a rotating crop of tourists that you can’t really get to know, loneliness does creep in eventually. To combat that, we’ve decided to get out of the house for happy-hour at least once a week. We’ve also had great exchanges through e-mail and Facebook with many friends and family. The best thing so far has been Facetime/Skype because we really feel like we’re spending quality time with whomever we are talking to.
Our month plus in Costa Rica has definitely had its ups and downs but we feel like we are getting the hang of life here. Looking ahead, September brings us to a new house farther down the Pacific highway. We will miss our small studio in Manuel Antonio but are excited to explore new places and meet new people. With lots more rain to come and a new set of wheels, it should be quite an adventure—we’ll be sure to keep you posted. * * *
Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica in 2007. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels,
Two Weeks in Costa Rica
. Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their successful jobs in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on the blog, twoweeksincostarica.com/blog or via Twitter and Facebook.
Challenges
Probably our biggest adjustment in Costa Rica so far has been the pure lack of convenience. Looking back, everything in the States was so easy. If you needed something, it was there. A quick stop to the store for this, a few clicks of the computer for that, and those big box stores that we thought we hated, those were awesome! Where we live in Costa Rica, things are a lot simpler. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, and we definitely don’t want a Target store going up in the middle of the jungle, but common, routine tasks seem to eat up our entire day. Doing one load of laundry takes a few hours. We have a washing machine but here is how it works. First you wash the clothes, drain them, move them to the spinner, spin, put them back in for a rinse, spin again, and finally hang to dry. Drying is a joke; did we mention that it’s the rainy season? Our clothesline never gets direct sunlight because it rains almost every afternoon, so the clothes never fully dry. Then when they’re folded and put away, they mildew and the process repeats.
Buying a wireless router was another adventure that took us an entire afternoon. Yes, Costa Rica does have such things, but the shops near us are small, local businesses that have a little of this and a little of that. It’s great because you see a lot of the same faces when you go in, but it will probably take us years to learn where to go for what we need. Luckily, during our hunt we ran into our very nice landlord who pointed us in the right direction and saved us countless hours of searching. Not having a car was a continuation of the above convenience problem. Riding the bus took forever. The other day the road to Quepos (the small city nearby) was down to only one lane because workers were installing new telephone poles, digging the holes by hand. The bus driver eventually had to turn off the engine and just wait, right as Jenn was about to pass out from the diesel exhaust fumes. We eventually got to where we needed to go but were glad that we weren’t trying to make an appointment or a bus connection. Luckily this past weekend, we finally purchased a car (separate exciting post coming soon).
Accomplishments
One of the major struggles we faced in our first update was food, figuring out what to eat and how to cook it. Well, my stomach and I are happy to report that Jenn has taken the lead and become an inspired cocinara (cook). She was back home too but has taken it to a new level here. For a while I thought we might have to live off corn chips and coffee but now it’s more like banana pancakes with coffee caramel sauce, fish tacos with mango salsa, and black bean soup with gently fried eggs. My favorite is the homemade granola bars with dried fruit. I even pitched in the other night to give her a break, cooking some spicy Thai noodles. The biggest part of our struggle with food, as you might remember, was getting the right ingredients. We’ve since thrown that out the door and started to improvise. Instead of buying expensive Thai chili paste, we used the blender and inexpensive fresh chilies to make our own. Instead of maple syrup (they don’t have the real stuff here), Jenn made her own caramel syrup. Things like that. The other night was Jenn’s ultimate triumph. She cooked dinner for a group of four Ticos, including our friend Roy, at our studio. Mojo marinated chicken fajitas with homemade salsa and guacamole. I knew she was stressed and nervous to serve the locals but when everyone had a second helping we both knew that victory was hers.
Jenn with her apron on, ready to cook. Settling into a work routine also has been somewhat successful. We get about a B minus on this one. We’ve started treating weekends like weekends and weekdays like workdays (when we’re not doing laundry). Blogging, book marketing, writing, and studying Spanish have all kept us busy during the days and we try to relax in the evenings by watching movies, having a cocktail, or reading up on the news back home. Shaking off the isolation has been another recent accomplishment. Living with one another in a tiny studio which is also our office has been fine for the most part. But with very few friends here and a rotating crop of tourists that you can’t really get to know, loneliness does creep in eventually. To combat that, we’ve decided to get out of the house for happy-hour at least once a week. We’ve also had great exchanges through e-mail and Facebook with many friends and family. The best thing so far has been Facetime/Skype because we really feel like we’re spending quality time with whomever we are talking to.
Our month plus in Costa Rica has definitely had its ups and downs but we feel like we are getting the hang of life here. Looking ahead, September brings us to a new house farther down the Pacific highway. We will miss our small studio in Manuel Antonio but are excited to explore new places and meet new people. With lots more rain to come and a new set of wheels, it should be quite an adventure—we’ll be sure to keep you posted. * * *
Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica in 2007. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels,
Two Weeks in Costa Rica
. Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their successful jobs in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on the blog, twoweeksincostarica.com/blog or via Twitter and Facebook. August 22, 2013
Tamarindo: Where Paradise Meets Convenience
Located in Costa Rica's Northwestern province of Guanacaste, Tamarindo is a bustling tourist town that lures surfers and sunbathers alike. The main draw here as you might have guessed is the beach, Playa Tamarindo, with its long golden arc stretching along the Pacific and verdant green mountains in the background. Sometimes such gems are remote but not in Tamarindo. Here, hotels, bars, restaurants, stores, and tour companies are just a short saunter from your beach towel. Pair this with its proximity to an international airport in Liberia and you can see why Tamarindo draws a crowd.
Orientation
In planning our trip to Tamarindo, guidebooks had us picturing skyscrapers, parking garages, and a Miami beach-like feel. Thankfully that was not the case. Although development has created a resort town with many amenities, it is far from a city. Even so, a handful of mid-rise hotels and condominiums do make a visual impact along the shoreline, with smaller one- or two-story shops and restaurants sandwiched in between.
There’s one main road that brings you into town and along the beach, Route 152. This is where many of the beachside restaurants, hotels, and surf shops can be found. From there, one major dirt road forks off leading to other side roads, residential developments, and businesses. Everything is within a short walk or bicycle ride. Staying on the main road heading south, you’ll find Langosta, a sort of suburb of Tamarindo made up of even more condominiums, resorts, and hotels.
The Main Strip in Tamarindo
Activities
Tamarindo is a surfing town so if you haven’t learned to surf yet, this is the place to start. Competition keeps lesson prices low and an easy right-hand wave break occurring at around waist level provides the perfect conditions for learning. Advanced surfers can use Tamarindo as a jumping-off point to get to more challenging beaches like Playa Grande to the north or Playas Avellanas, Langosta, and Negra to the south. When in doubt, ask the many experts in town like Witch’s Rock Surf Camp or Banana Surf Club.
If surfing isn’t your thing, don’t despair, there’s plenty more to do. For the family, check out the mini-golf course or arrange an ATV, zip-line, or river boat tour through one of the operators in town. Shopping enthusiasts can make a day of exploring the many boutiques, shops, and kiosks, and those craving some pampering can enjoy a day at the spa.
Budget travelers might rent a bike for the day to just cruise around ($20), or spend the afternoon sharing backpacking stories over a good craft beer at Volcano Brewing Company, coming soon to Tamarindo. With a couple of different grocery stores, a picnic lunch on the less crowded beaches to the south is also on the table.
Lastly, if you’re visiting during leatherback turtle nesting season, November through April, arrange a night tour at Las Baulas National Marine Park for the unique opportunity to watch some of the rarest turtles in the world lay their eggs.
Tip
Expect that when walking along the main beach you will be a moving target for the plethora of surf instructors, souvenir vendors, and tour operators. It’s no wonder why the majority of visitors here seek the peace and quiet of a surf board at some point. Instead of just saying “no gracias” which can be viewed as rude in Costa Rica, try “otra día” which translates to “another day.”
Dining
The crowd in Tamarindo is mixed, with everyone from hostel-seeking college students to all inclusive honeymooners and resorting families from around the globe. For that reason, it’s fitting that the dining options are also diverse. Everything from falafel to filet minion to typical Costa Rican food like rice and beans or ceviche fill the curbside menu displays. It’s worth exploring a little though, as many of the best restaurants are hiding behind the main strip on dusty (or muddy) offshoots. You will find your own hidden gems in Tamarindo but there are two places we absolutely recommend: The Green Papaya, which serves up healthy, original tacos while you sway in rope-swing chairs, and La Pachanga, which has authentic Italian food that rivals any of our North End favorites back home in Boston. As we observed, the nightlife starts later here than elsewhere in Costa Rica. The streets don’t start to become crowded until well after dark and a busy bar scene lasts longer into the night than we did.
When to Go/What to Bring
Tamarindo is located in one of the driest regions of Costa Rica; you’ll even notice some cacti growing here, but don’t forget it’s still the tropics. The driest months conveniently coincide with North America’s and Europe’s winters, so snow birds are prevalent between November and April. Shorts, T-shirts, and flip-flops are the standard dress and a light rain jacket or long-sleeve doesn’t hurt to have around, especially in the rainy season. If you’re planning some late nights out on the town, be sure to bring something a little dressier than your standard board shorts and tank top, but don’t go crazy. During the rainy season from May to October, things are a lot greener and you will definitely want to carry an umbrella. Here’s a link with some useful weather information to help you plan.
As much as Tamarindo is known for its beautiful beach, there is something else alluring here. Not so much a local Tico culture, but a strong sense of community between business owners, expats, and those surfers, who never seem to leave. The more time one spends here, the more likely it may be that they stay too. Maybe you’ll be next.
* * * Have you been to Tamarindo? How was your trip? We’d love to hear about your favorite restaurants and activities. Leave a comment below or connect with us on Twitter and Facebook.
To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.
Orientation
In planning our trip to Tamarindo, guidebooks had us picturing skyscrapers, parking garages, and a Miami beach-like feel. Thankfully that was not the case. Although development has created a resort town with many amenities, it is far from a city. Even so, a handful of mid-rise hotels and condominiums do make a visual impact along the shoreline, with smaller one- or two-story shops and restaurants sandwiched in between.
There’s one main road that brings you into town and along the beach, Route 152. This is where many of the beachside restaurants, hotels, and surf shops can be found. From there, one major dirt road forks off leading to other side roads, residential developments, and businesses. Everything is within a short walk or bicycle ride. Staying on the main road heading south, you’ll find Langosta, a sort of suburb of Tamarindo made up of even more condominiums, resorts, and hotels.
The Main Strip in Tamarindo Activities
Tamarindo is a surfing town so if you haven’t learned to surf yet, this is the place to start. Competition keeps lesson prices low and an easy right-hand wave break occurring at around waist level provides the perfect conditions for learning. Advanced surfers can use Tamarindo as a jumping-off point to get to more challenging beaches like Playa Grande to the north or Playas Avellanas, Langosta, and Negra to the south. When in doubt, ask the many experts in town like Witch’s Rock Surf Camp or Banana Surf Club.
If surfing isn’t your thing, don’t despair, there’s plenty more to do. For the family, check out the mini-golf course or arrange an ATV, zip-line, or river boat tour through one of the operators in town. Shopping enthusiasts can make a day of exploring the many boutiques, shops, and kiosks, and those craving some pampering can enjoy a day at the spa.
Budget travelers might rent a bike for the day to just cruise around ($20), or spend the afternoon sharing backpacking stories over a good craft beer at Volcano Brewing Company, coming soon to Tamarindo. With a couple of different grocery stores, a picnic lunch on the less crowded beaches to the south is also on the table.
Lastly, if you’re visiting during leatherback turtle nesting season, November through April, arrange a night tour at Las Baulas National Marine Park for the unique opportunity to watch some of the rarest turtles in the world lay their eggs.
Tip
Expect that when walking along the main beach you will be a moving target for the plethora of surf instructors, souvenir vendors, and tour operators. It’s no wonder why the majority of visitors here seek the peace and quiet of a surf board at some point. Instead of just saying “no gracias” which can be viewed as rude in Costa Rica, try “otra día” which translates to “another day.”
Dining
The crowd in Tamarindo is mixed, with everyone from hostel-seeking college students to all inclusive honeymooners and resorting families from around the globe. For that reason, it’s fitting that the dining options are also diverse. Everything from falafel to filet minion to typical Costa Rican food like rice and beans or ceviche fill the curbside menu displays. It’s worth exploring a little though, as many of the best restaurants are hiding behind the main strip on dusty (or muddy) offshoots. You will find your own hidden gems in Tamarindo but there are two places we absolutely recommend: The Green Papaya, which serves up healthy, original tacos while you sway in rope-swing chairs, and La Pachanga, which has authentic Italian food that rivals any of our North End favorites back home in Boston. As we observed, the nightlife starts later here than elsewhere in Costa Rica. The streets don’t start to become crowded until well after dark and a busy bar scene lasts longer into the night than we did.
When to Go/What to Bring
Tamarindo is located in one of the driest regions of Costa Rica; you’ll even notice some cacti growing here, but don’t forget it’s still the tropics. The driest months conveniently coincide with North America’s and Europe’s winters, so snow birds are prevalent between November and April. Shorts, T-shirts, and flip-flops are the standard dress and a light rain jacket or long-sleeve doesn’t hurt to have around, especially in the rainy season. If you’re planning some late nights out on the town, be sure to bring something a little dressier than your standard board shorts and tank top, but don’t go crazy. During the rainy season from May to October, things are a lot greener and you will definitely want to carry an umbrella. Here’s a link with some useful weather information to help you plan.
As much as Tamarindo is known for its beautiful beach, there is something else alluring here. Not so much a local Tico culture, but a strong sense of community between business owners, expats, and those surfers, who never seem to leave. The more time one spends here, the more likely it may be that they stay too. Maybe you’ll be next.
* * * Have you been to Tamarindo? How was your trip? We’d love to hear about your favorite restaurants and activities. Leave a comment below or connect with us on Twitter and Facebook.
To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.
August 6, 2013
First Impressions on Living in Costa Rica
Today marks our two-week anniversary of living in Costa Rica. We truly love it here so far—the people, the relaxed approach to life, not to mention the spectacular natural beauty. Everything that brought us here to begin with is still just as magical as when we first discovered it. Sometimes when we see a sloth hanging from a tree in our backyard or a brilliant sunset from our porch, we joke that we should pinch ourselves because living here still doesn’t seem real.
But everything hasn’t been all sunshine and butterflies. It’s going to take some time to adjust to our new lives. Although we had been to Costa Rica many times before and had a general idea of what to expect, vacation did not entirely prep us for living here. Unlike on vacation, we of course need to work and can’t live the vacation lifestyle of going out to eat and on excursions all of the time. That means that we need to figure out the basics like food, housing, transportation, and language (learning Spanish!), all on top of getting into a work routine.
Our nueva casa
Here are some of the biggest changes we’ve faced since becoming ex-pats:
New Jobs
I’m not going to say that leaving the nine-to-five isn’t great, of course it is. Getting used to our new jobs as writers though is going to take some time. In the United States, I was an attorney and Matt was the operations manager of a landscape company. Our jobs were often busy and hectic, but they were stable. We were comfortable in those jobs, comfortable in our roles and in the steady paycheck. Now with the move, we have transitioned from writing on the side to writing full-time. Our office is also our home, which is a challenge. Drawing the line between routine house chores, things we want to do, and productive work is still blurry to us. We are also contending with an inspiring yet distracting view. It’s hard not to get sidetracked with flocks of parakeets, troops of monkeys, and ocean waves calling for attention. We do have one book under our belt but it is still scary solely to rely on ourselves for income.
Rain & Moisture
We knew we were arriving during the rainy season but weren’t quite sure what to expect. Our research told us to expect sunny mornings and rainy afternoons. For the most part, this has been true. There have been a few days, though, where has rained all day. And a lot of the time when it’s raining, it’s pouring so hard that you don’t think it could possibly rain any harder. Manuel Antonio, the town where we’re currently staying, gets an average of nineteen inches of rain in August, and even more in September and October.
All of this moisture and humidity means that it takes a long time for things to dry, causing fabrics, like bed sheets, to feel wet. On the upside, the rain keeps the plant life green and lush. And because the temperature stays a consistent 75°F to 85°F year round, it’s always a warm rain. After living in New England for the last thirty-plus years, we’ll take a rainstorm over a snowstorm any day!
Critters
Open-air living in the tropics means that lizards, cockroaches, beetles, and all sorts of flying insects find their way into your home. Even if you’re sure you’ve checked the screens for holes, they still manage to come in through the cracks. Ants will ransack your kitchen too if you don’t clean up immediately after meals, so there’s no more waiting to do the dishes until tomorrow. Every time we come to Costa Rica I am initially put off by the idea of living among creepy crawlies. But for the most part, if you leave them alone, they’ll you leave alone. They’re a natural part of the ecosystem in the jungle, something that you just have to accept living here. But at least some of them have benefits. We’d like to think that the many lizards sharing our casa are helping to control the mosquito population, leaving us with fewer bites.
No Car
Life without a car has been interesting. We only had one car in Boston but it was really nice for trips to the grocery store and traveling longer distances. We don’t mind walking and using the local buses to get around but need to figure out the routes so that we can go on more day trips and explore beyond our immediate area. Ever since we arrived, we’ve been hunting for a small, fuel-efficient SUV. We’re hoping to buy one sometime this month so that we have it for when we move farther south in September, when a car is more of a necessity. So far we haven’t had much luck. Cars are extremely expensive because of import taxes. Right now Matt is sifting through a fine selection of beat up fifteen-year-old SUVs, all priced anywhere between $7,000 and $10,000.
Grocery Store/Food
If you walk into the local supermercado (supermarket), you would assume that the Ticos eat basically three things: canned tuna, rice and beans, and meat. There’s also a large assortment of locally made chips and other salty snacks like chicharones and lots of cookies. Although most grocery stores do have just about everything that’s available in the United States, many items are two or three times the price. Foods imported from the United States are especially expensive. For example, a jar of Skippy peanut butter is about $6, a box of Cheerios $7, and a bag of shredded cheddar $8. The good news is that produce is very inexpensive, especially at the weekly feria (farmer’s market). We recently made a trip to the feria in the nearby town of Quepos and paid $10 for fruits, veggies, and fresh herbs that lasted almost one week. We’re having to adapt our eating habits somewhat. There certainly won’t be as much lasagna for dinner or cereal for breakfast, but we’re figuring it out slowly but surely.
Quepos feria Language
We knew that with our limited Spanish knowledge, the language barrier would be a problem. We’re fortunate that the area where we’re staying has a lot English speakers. Our landlady, for instance, is a local Tica who has picked up English over the years and is now nearly fluent. This likely all will change when we move next month to any area that is less touristy. For this reason, we’ve been trying to fit in Spanish lessons whenever we have free time, testing our skills on bus drivers or supermarket clerks. I am using books while Matt has been studying online. That’s all well and good until it’s time to turn off the Spanish for the day and all of the T.V. stations are broadcasting in, you guessed it, Spanish. It makes for an exhausting evening trying to read subtitles or decipher what’s happening to Charlie on the latest episode of Two and a Half Men. * * * Even with having to adjust to all of these changes, we are still having fun and trying to take every new challenge in stride, like the locals do. We’ve had a blast exploring Quepos and Manuel Antonio, finding hidden beaches and the best spots for happy hour. And we’ve loved the time we have spent on our porch, just watching birds and wildlife go on with their day in our backyard. We wouldn’t trade in this opportunity for anything.
Questions/Comments
Are you thinking of taking the plunge and moving to Costa Rica yourself? What do you think the biggest adjustment will be for you? Or have you already made the move? What’s the one piece of advice you would give to newbie expats?
But everything hasn’t been all sunshine and butterflies. It’s going to take some time to adjust to our new lives. Although we had been to Costa Rica many times before and had a general idea of what to expect, vacation did not entirely prep us for living here. Unlike on vacation, we of course need to work and can’t live the vacation lifestyle of going out to eat and on excursions all of the time. That means that we need to figure out the basics like food, housing, transportation, and language (learning Spanish!), all on top of getting into a work routine.
Our nueva casa Here are some of the biggest changes we’ve faced since becoming ex-pats:
New Jobs
I’m not going to say that leaving the nine-to-five isn’t great, of course it is. Getting used to our new jobs as writers though is going to take some time. In the United States, I was an attorney and Matt was the operations manager of a landscape company. Our jobs were often busy and hectic, but they were stable. We were comfortable in those jobs, comfortable in our roles and in the steady paycheck. Now with the move, we have transitioned from writing on the side to writing full-time. Our office is also our home, which is a challenge. Drawing the line between routine house chores, things we want to do, and productive work is still blurry to us. We are also contending with an inspiring yet distracting view. It’s hard not to get sidetracked with flocks of parakeets, troops of monkeys, and ocean waves calling for attention. We do have one book under our belt but it is still scary solely to rely on ourselves for income.
Rain & Moisture
We knew we were arriving during the rainy season but weren’t quite sure what to expect. Our research told us to expect sunny mornings and rainy afternoons. For the most part, this has been true. There have been a few days, though, where has rained all day. And a lot of the time when it’s raining, it’s pouring so hard that you don’t think it could possibly rain any harder. Manuel Antonio, the town where we’re currently staying, gets an average of nineteen inches of rain in August, and even more in September and October.
All of this moisture and humidity means that it takes a long time for things to dry, causing fabrics, like bed sheets, to feel wet. On the upside, the rain keeps the plant life green and lush. And because the temperature stays a consistent 75°F to 85°F year round, it’s always a warm rain. After living in New England for the last thirty-plus years, we’ll take a rainstorm over a snowstorm any day!
Critters
Open-air living in the tropics means that lizards, cockroaches, beetles, and all sorts of flying insects find their way into your home. Even if you’re sure you’ve checked the screens for holes, they still manage to come in through the cracks. Ants will ransack your kitchen too if you don’t clean up immediately after meals, so there’s no more waiting to do the dishes until tomorrow. Every time we come to Costa Rica I am initially put off by the idea of living among creepy crawlies. But for the most part, if you leave them alone, they’ll you leave alone. They’re a natural part of the ecosystem in the jungle, something that you just have to accept living here. But at least some of them have benefits. We’d like to think that the many lizards sharing our casa are helping to control the mosquito population, leaving us with fewer bites.
No Car
Life without a car has been interesting. We only had one car in Boston but it was really nice for trips to the grocery store and traveling longer distances. We don’t mind walking and using the local buses to get around but need to figure out the routes so that we can go on more day trips and explore beyond our immediate area. Ever since we arrived, we’ve been hunting for a small, fuel-efficient SUV. We’re hoping to buy one sometime this month so that we have it for when we move farther south in September, when a car is more of a necessity. So far we haven’t had much luck. Cars are extremely expensive because of import taxes. Right now Matt is sifting through a fine selection of beat up fifteen-year-old SUVs, all priced anywhere between $7,000 and $10,000.
Grocery Store/Food
If you walk into the local supermercado (supermarket), you would assume that the Ticos eat basically three things: canned tuna, rice and beans, and meat. There’s also a large assortment of locally made chips and other salty snacks like chicharones and lots of cookies. Although most grocery stores do have just about everything that’s available in the United States, many items are two or three times the price. Foods imported from the United States are especially expensive. For example, a jar of Skippy peanut butter is about $6, a box of Cheerios $7, and a bag of shredded cheddar $8. The good news is that produce is very inexpensive, especially at the weekly feria (farmer’s market). We recently made a trip to the feria in the nearby town of Quepos and paid $10 for fruits, veggies, and fresh herbs that lasted almost one week. We’re having to adapt our eating habits somewhat. There certainly won’t be as much lasagna for dinner or cereal for breakfast, but we’re figuring it out slowly but surely.
Quepos feria LanguageWe knew that with our limited Spanish knowledge, the language barrier would be a problem. We’re fortunate that the area where we’re staying has a lot English speakers. Our landlady, for instance, is a local Tica who has picked up English over the years and is now nearly fluent. This likely all will change when we move next month to any area that is less touristy. For this reason, we’ve been trying to fit in Spanish lessons whenever we have free time, testing our skills on bus drivers or supermarket clerks. I am using books while Matt has been studying online. That’s all well and good until it’s time to turn off the Spanish for the day and all of the T.V. stations are broadcasting in, you guessed it, Spanish. It makes for an exhausting evening trying to read subtitles or decipher what’s happening to Charlie on the latest episode of Two and a Half Men. * * * Even with having to adjust to all of these changes, we are still having fun and trying to take every new challenge in stride, like the locals do. We’ve had a blast exploring Quepos and Manuel Antonio, finding hidden beaches and the best spots for happy hour. And we’ve loved the time we have spent on our porch, just watching birds and wildlife go on with their day in our backyard. We wouldn’t trade in this opportunity for anything.
Questions/CommentsAre you thinking of taking the plunge and moving to Costa Rica yourself? What do you think the biggest adjustment will be for you? Or have you already made the move? What’s the one piece of advice you would give to newbie expats?
July 16, 2013
Our Eight (or Ten) Suitcases
Our big move to Costa Rica is just a mere week away. As our pre-trip to-do list shortens and it gets closer to July 23, we are getting more and more excited. One of our last major tasks is, of course, packing. This blog explains why we’re bringing only what fits in ten suitcases and what each of those suitcases will contain.
Moving your entire life in only ten bags may sound extreme but upon considering the options, we’ve decided that it’s our best bet. Shipping via a cargo container didn’t make sense because, having previously lived in a small condo in the city, we simply didn’t have a lot to ship. Shipping is also more expensive and involves paperwork, as all containers arriving in Costa Rica need to be cleared by customs (and taxed). Plus, we knew that we’d be renting a fully-furnished home (common in Costa Rica), so there was no need to ship our furniture and other large items.
What We’re Bringing
The bulk of what we’re bringing is clothing. There are also several random items that are difficult to find in Costa Rica and/or much more expensive there. Below is an inventory of exactly what’s going in our bags. Keep in mind that since we will be checking our luggage, each bag contains a mish-mash of items to keep it under the airline’s 50-pound limit. In other words, clothing will be mixed with electronics and towels will be wrapped around breakables.
Suitcases 1 and 2: Clothes (packed in Space Saver bags), including one formal outfit in case we need to go to a event like a wedding, baptism, or funeral. Costa Ricans typically dress up for formal events.
Suitcase 3: Overflow clothes, shoes, flip-flops, hiking boots, oh and the blender for refrescos (fresh fruit smoothies).
Suitcase 4: Pots and pans (extreme, we know, but Jenn loves to cook and our stainless steel cookware was the one impractical item we wanted to bring. We decided early on that we could bring something impractical, as well as something we didn’t necessarily need that would remind us of home.); coffee grinder (difficult to find in Costa Rica, and something we’ll surely need with all that delicious native coffee); and a wireless router.
Suitcase 5: One small tool bag with the essentials for basic auto and home repair (screwdrivers; wrench set; hammer; pliers, electrical tester); snorkel masks; flippers; water shoes; beach towels; binoculars; rainy season gear (rubber boots, ponchos, waterproof sandals); head lamps; and Red Sox baseball hats (a little piece of home).
Suitcase 6: Travel books on Costa Rica, Panama, Central America; books on writing; file of important papers that are impractical to store digitally on a Cloud; road maps of Costa Rica; essential medications (cold and flu remedies) and travel first-aid kit; toiletries; lots of extra sunscreen (expensive in Costa Rica); and a few paperbacks of our own book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica .
Suitcase 7: PlayStation (plan to use this as our DVD player); DVDs of our all-time favorite movies; raincoats; lightweight jackets (for visiting cooler parts of Costa Rica, like the cloud forest); a couple sets of bath towels; two sets of sheets (we read on one of the moving to Costa Rica forums that quality sheets are hard to find); indoor grill/griddler combo; and our favorite kitchen knives.
Suitcase 8: Mini-speaker for iPod (hopefully this will do as a stereo system); travel alarm; hairdryer; a few essential kitchen utensils; four wine glasses (our casual, stemless ones that we used on our porch in Boston- another reminder of home); photo given to us by our friends at our going-away party, with messages written on frame; two small backpacks for day hikes; camera tri-pod; and an air mattress for those extra guests.
Suitcases 9 & 10: TBD- but nothing, hopefully!
Carry-ons: Two laptops (for writing/blogging, of course!); digital camera (electronics are much more expensive in Costa Rica); cell phones (unlocked phones for use in Costa Rica); Kindle; other valuables; and a gift for our Tico friend Roy. * * * Questions/Comments
Are you moving to Costa Rica too? We’ll do our best to answer your questions about what to bring. Or have you already made the move? Please share your experience. What’s the one thing you wish you brought?
Want to hear about our previous adventures in Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com.
Moving your entire life in only ten bags may sound extreme but upon considering the options, we’ve decided that it’s our best bet. Shipping via a cargo container didn’t make sense because, having previously lived in a small condo in the city, we simply didn’t have a lot to ship. Shipping is also more expensive and involves paperwork, as all containers arriving in Costa Rica need to be cleared by customs (and taxed). Plus, we knew that we’d be renting a fully-furnished home (common in Costa Rica), so there was no need to ship our furniture and other large items.
What We’re BringingThe bulk of what we’re bringing is clothing. There are also several random items that are difficult to find in Costa Rica and/or much more expensive there. Below is an inventory of exactly what’s going in our bags. Keep in mind that since we will be checking our luggage, each bag contains a mish-mash of items to keep it under the airline’s 50-pound limit. In other words, clothing will be mixed with electronics and towels will be wrapped around breakables.
Suitcases 1 and 2: Clothes (packed in Space Saver bags), including one formal outfit in case we need to go to a event like a wedding, baptism, or funeral. Costa Ricans typically dress up for formal events.
Suitcase 3: Overflow clothes, shoes, flip-flops, hiking boots, oh and the blender for refrescos (fresh fruit smoothies).
Suitcase 4: Pots and pans (extreme, we know, but Jenn loves to cook and our stainless steel cookware was the one impractical item we wanted to bring. We decided early on that we could bring something impractical, as well as something we didn’t necessarily need that would remind us of home.); coffee grinder (difficult to find in Costa Rica, and something we’ll surely need with all that delicious native coffee); and a wireless router.
Suitcase 5: One small tool bag with the essentials for basic auto and home repair (screwdrivers; wrench set; hammer; pliers, electrical tester); snorkel masks; flippers; water shoes; beach towels; binoculars; rainy season gear (rubber boots, ponchos, waterproof sandals); head lamps; and Red Sox baseball hats (a little piece of home).
Suitcase 6: Travel books on Costa Rica, Panama, Central America; books on writing; file of important papers that are impractical to store digitally on a Cloud; road maps of Costa Rica; essential medications (cold and flu remedies) and travel first-aid kit; toiletries; lots of extra sunscreen (expensive in Costa Rica); and a few paperbacks of our own book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica .
Suitcase 7: PlayStation (plan to use this as our DVD player); DVDs of our all-time favorite movies; raincoats; lightweight jackets (for visiting cooler parts of Costa Rica, like the cloud forest); a couple sets of bath towels; two sets of sheets (we read on one of the moving to Costa Rica forums that quality sheets are hard to find); indoor grill/griddler combo; and our favorite kitchen knives.
Suitcase 8: Mini-speaker for iPod (hopefully this will do as a stereo system); travel alarm; hairdryer; a few essential kitchen utensils; four wine glasses (our casual, stemless ones that we used on our porch in Boston- another reminder of home); photo given to us by our friends at our going-away party, with messages written on frame; two small backpacks for day hikes; camera tri-pod; and an air mattress for those extra guests.
Suitcases 9 & 10: TBD- but nothing, hopefully!Carry-ons: Two laptops (for writing/blogging, of course!); digital camera (electronics are much more expensive in Costa Rica); cell phones (unlocked phones for use in Costa Rica); Kindle; other valuables; and a gift for our Tico friend Roy. * * * Questions/Comments
Are you moving to Costa Rica too? We’ll do our best to answer your questions about what to bring. Or have you already made the move? Please share your experience. What’s the one thing you wish you brought?
Want to hear about our previous adventures in Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com.
May 25, 2013
Our Moving-to-Costa Rica Bucket List
With our move just two months away, the focus is shifting to what we’re leaving behind. Visits with friends and family are ending with sad looks and us saying, “Don’t worry, we’ll see you again before we leave.” Work is moving on too, already planning who will fill our shoes. Reality really set in when we signed on the dotted line to sell our condo.
We’ve loved living in Boston for the past seven years: the plethora of restaurants, the convenience of walking or taking the subway to shop or grab food, not to mention the people. Bostonians, with their hard outer shell, are good-natured and, deep down, very kind. In these final months before our departure, we are trying to appreciate everything about life here. After all, life in Costa Rica will be very different. Foremost it will be slower and simpler. Sure, part of the reason we’re moving is to slow down and appreciate life. But before we do, we want to take the opportunity to enjoy everything about Boston. Take in every last drop. That leads to the bucket list.
Since living in Boston, Matt and I have had certain things we’ve wanted to do, quintessential Boston activities like walking the public garden on a spring day or touring Fenway Park. Turns out there is still a lot to accomplish so we’ve decided to make a list and see how far we can get before July. There are also a few items that relate to our time here, which will allow us to reflect on the past. Here goes:
Cocktails at Top of the Hub
This one has been on my list for a long time. Drinks high atop the Prudential Center with a panoramic view of our city, Boston, and a martini in hand. Perfection.
Hike Mount Washington
The ultimate hiking challenge in the Northeast. It’s the area’s highest peak and takes an entire day to summit. This will definitely get us ready for trekking the rainforests of Costa Rica.
Duck Boat Tour
Sounds cheesy but I’ve always wanted to take a spin around Boston on this trolley-turned boat and learn more about Beantown’s rich history.
Hike the Blue Hills, then Blue Hills Brewery
A taste of the great outdoors followed by great beer. Costa Rica has microbrews but nothing like in the U.S. We need to get our hop fix on while we can.
After-work drinks on the water
Saying goodbye to coworkers on the cushiony outdoor furniture of the InterContinental hotel overlooking Boston Harbor.
Time on the Boat in Maine
Cruising along the river where Matt grew up, where the day consists of lunching at Frankfort Island, Matt trying to catch that trophy striper, and me relaxing in the sun. It’s one of our favorite summer pastimes, the perfect retreat from the city. I’m already sad thinking about how we’ll miss it.
Visiting Our Old Neighborhood
When we first moved to Boston from Vermont, we didn’t know much about the culture of the different neighborhoods. We really lucked out landing an apartment in Brighton near the vibrant Washington Square area. It took some time to get used to the rickety trolley passing right outside our windows, but we loved it. Sure it had its quirks—one tiny closet and a bathroom where the toilet practically touched the wall—but it was our first place in the city. I can remember many nights on the fourth floor porch spent just relaxing and looking out at the cityscape. After living in quiet Vermont for three years, the speed of city life took some getting used to, but it didn’t take long for Boston to pull at our heartstrings.
No doubt, getting through this list is going to be fun. But our last couple of months here is going to be about a lot more than that. As we spend time with friends and family, we’ll be reflecting on the last seven years, the highs and lows and everything in between. We might think we won’t miss the imperfections of everyday life in New England, the unpredictable weather, traffic, subway headaches, but you can bet we’ll miss even these things once they’re out of reach.
Boston, come August, you won’t be our home anymore, but you’ll always be in our hearts.
* * * We’ve got lots to do between now and July. It’s hard work, but somebody’s got to do it! Do you have a bucket list? What’s on it?
We’ve loved living in Boston for the past seven years: the plethora of restaurants, the convenience of walking or taking the subway to shop or grab food, not to mention the people. Bostonians, with their hard outer shell, are good-natured and, deep down, very kind. In these final months before our departure, we are trying to appreciate everything about life here. After all, life in Costa Rica will be very different. Foremost it will be slower and simpler. Sure, part of the reason we’re moving is to slow down and appreciate life. But before we do, we want to take the opportunity to enjoy everything about Boston. Take in every last drop. That leads to the bucket list.
Since living in Boston, Matt and I have had certain things we’ve wanted to do, quintessential Boston activities like walking the public garden on a spring day or touring Fenway Park. Turns out there is still a lot to accomplish so we’ve decided to make a list and see how far we can get before July. There are also a few items that relate to our time here, which will allow us to reflect on the past. Here goes:
Cocktails at Top of the Hub
This one has been on my list for a long time. Drinks high atop the Prudential Center with a panoramic view of our city, Boston, and a martini in hand. Perfection.
Hike Mount Washington
The ultimate hiking challenge in the Northeast. It’s the area’s highest peak and takes an entire day to summit. This will definitely get us ready for trekking the rainforests of Costa Rica.
Duck Boat Tour
Sounds cheesy but I’ve always wanted to take a spin around Boston on this trolley-turned boat and learn more about Beantown’s rich history.
Hike the Blue Hills, then Blue Hills Brewery
A taste of the great outdoors followed by great beer. Costa Rica has microbrews but nothing like in the U.S. We need to get our hop fix on while we can.
After-work drinks on the water
Saying goodbye to coworkers on the cushiony outdoor furniture of the InterContinental hotel overlooking Boston Harbor.
Time on the Boat in Maine
Cruising along the river where Matt grew up, where the day consists of lunching at Frankfort Island, Matt trying to catch that trophy striper, and me relaxing in the sun. It’s one of our favorite summer pastimes, the perfect retreat from the city. I’m already sad thinking about how we’ll miss it.
Visiting Our Old Neighborhood
When we first moved to Boston from Vermont, we didn’t know much about the culture of the different neighborhoods. We really lucked out landing an apartment in Brighton near the vibrant Washington Square area. It took some time to get used to the rickety trolley passing right outside our windows, but we loved it. Sure it had its quirks—one tiny closet and a bathroom where the toilet practically touched the wall—but it was our first place in the city. I can remember many nights on the fourth floor porch spent just relaxing and looking out at the cityscape. After living in quiet Vermont for three years, the speed of city life took some getting used to, but it didn’t take long for Boston to pull at our heartstrings.
No doubt, getting through this list is going to be fun. But our last couple of months here is going to be about a lot more than that. As we spend time with friends and family, we’ll be reflecting on the last seven years, the highs and lows and everything in between. We might think we won’t miss the imperfections of everyday life in New England, the unpredictable weather, traffic, subway headaches, but you can bet we’ll miss even these things once they’re out of reach.
Boston, come August, you won’t be our home anymore, but you’ll always be in our hearts.
* * * We’ve got lots to do between now and July. It’s hard work, but somebody’s got to do it! Do you have a bucket list? What’s on it?
April 22, 2013
WE'RE MOVING TO COSTA RICA!
We have some big news: We quit our jobs and are moving to Costa Rica!
After more than two years in the works, we’re making our dream happen and relocating this July. No more Two Weeks in Costa Rica , hello months, maybe even years, in Costa Rica. The decision to quit our jobs and leave our lives in the States behind is definitely scary. But when we think of everything we love about Costa Rica—its vibrant culture, beautiful environment, and laid back approach to life—we feel assured in our decision.
How did this crazy idea come about?
Ever since our first visit in 2007, we’ve been dreaming of having our own piece of paradise in the land of pura vida. With our current jobs we have limited vacation time and knew that if we bought a home there, we’d only be able to visit for a few weeks a year. That just didn’t make sense so we explored whether we could afford to make the move more permanent. What was a dream slowly turned into reality. We started saving like crazy and tested the waters to see if writing could be a source of income to fund our adventure. Neither of us are writers by trade; Matt is a landscape project manager and I am an attorney. But we channeled our creative sides and collaborated to pen Two Weeks in Costa Rica , a travelogue that shares one of our most memorable trips to Costa Rica. We’re happy to say that Two Weeks in Costa Rica has been a success, far exceeding our expectations. We're hoping that our readers will want to continue to follow our adventures and plan to write more books once we're in Costa Rica; one about our experiences moving abroad and others about travel in Central America.
What’s next?
We still have a million things to do before we leave in just a few months but have checked some major tasks off of our list. A couple of weeks ago we took care of a big one: we gave our notice to work. My work knew it was coming because I attempted (unsuccessfully) to negotiate a telecommuting arrangement where I would continue to work from Costa Rica, but for Matt, his news was a total surprise. Telling his boss went a lot better than expected, and I can tell that he is extremely relieved. With that off of our plates, we still need to figure out everything from residency and health insurance to arranging our finances and selling our condo (and most of our belongings!).
Is this really the right thing to do?
Who knows. Hindsight is always 20/20 as they say but we’ve given it a lot of thought and believe that we’re making the right choice. Sure it won’t be easy; acclimating to a new culture where we don’t speak the native language, missing out on the life-changing events of our family and friends, dealing with feelings of isolation, and questioning whether we made the wrong choice will be among the many challenges we’ll face. But then again, usually the easiest thing to do isn’t the best thing to do in terms of long-term success and happiness. With risk comes reward. If we stay on our current path, our next steps would be to continue advancing our careers, sell our condo, move to the suburbs, and start a family. There is nothing wrong with that path but we want to try something a little different, at least for a short time while we are young. We’ve learned that no one knows how much time they have so you have to make the best out of every moment. Yes it’s risky to leave behind perfectly good jobs and the financial security that comes with a steady paycheck. But we cannot let the fear of failure be in control. We’ve made it to where we are today because of our creativity, drive, and motivation. Hopefully these same attributes will guide us in our future endeavors in Costa Rica.
Want to follow along on our adventure?
If you want to see how our crazy journey goes, check back at our blog as we’ll be posting more—the good, the bad, and the ugly. We’ll also be sharing on Twitter and Facebook. ¡Pura vida!
After more than two years in the works, we’re making our dream happen and relocating this July. No more Two Weeks in Costa Rica , hello months, maybe even years, in Costa Rica. The decision to quit our jobs and leave our lives in the States behind is definitely scary. But when we think of everything we love about Costa Rica—its vibrant culture, beautiful environment, and laid back approach to life—we feel assured in our decision.
How did this crazy idea come about?Ever since our first visit in 2007, we’ve been dreaming of having our own piece of paradise in the land of pura vida. With our current jobs we have limited vacation time and knew that if we bought a home there, we’d only be able to visit for a few weeks a year. That just didn’t make sense so we explored whether we could afford to make the move more permanent. What was a dream slowly turned into reality. We started saving like crazy and tested the waters to see if writing could be a source of income to fund our adventure. Neither of us are writers by trade; Matt is a landscape project manager and I am an attorney. But we channeled our creative sides and collaborated to pen Two Weeks in Costa Rica , a travelogue that shares one of our most memorable trips to Costa Rica. We’re happy to say that Two Weeks in Costa Rica has been a success, far exceeding our expectations. We're hoping that our readers will want to continue to follow our adventures and plan to write more books once we're in Costa Rica; one about our experiences moving abroad and others about travel in Central America.
What’s next?
We still have a million things to do before we leave in just a few months but have checked some major tasks off of our list. A couple of weeks ago we took care of a big one: we gave our notice to work. My work knew it was coming because I attempted (unsuccessfully) to negotiate a telecommuting arrangement where I would continue to work from Costa Rica, but for Matt, his news was a total surprise. Telling his boss went a lot better than expected, and I can tell that he is extremely relieved. With that off of our plates, we still need to figure out everything from residency and health insurance to arranging our finances and selling our condo (and most of our belongings!).
Is this really the right thing to do?Who knows. Hindsight is always 20/20 as they say but we’ve given it a lot of thought and believe that we’re making the right choice. Sure it won’t be easy; acclimating to a new culture where we don’t speak the native language, missing out on the life-changing events of our family and friends, dealing with feelings of isolation, and questioning whether we made the wrong choice will be among the many challenges we’ll face. But then again, usually the easiest thing to do isn’t the best thing to do in terms of long-term success and happiness. With risk comes reward. If we stay on our current path, our next steps would be to continue advancing our careers, sell our condo, move to the suburbs, and start a family. There is nothing wrong with that path but we want to try something a little different, at least for a short time while we are young. We’ve learned that no one knows how much time they have so you have to make the best out of every moment. Yes it’s risky to leave behind perfectly good jobs and the financial security that comes with a steady paycheck. But we cannot let the fear of failure be in control. We’ve made it to where we are today because of our creativity, drive, and motivation. Hopefully these same attributes will guide us in our future endeavors in Costa Rica.
Want to follow along on our adventure?
If you want to see how our crazy journey goes, check back at our blog as we’ll be posting more—the good, the bad, and the ugly. We’ll also be sharing on Twitter and Facebook. ¡Pura vida!
March 30, 2013
CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK
“Feeling like explorers discovering a new land, we walked along the faint trail through fresh spiderwebs and among strange bird calls high in the canopy. Around every corner, there was something different. Monkeys plucked wild fruit from trees, mother ring-tailed coatis led their babies across the jungle floor, and orange and black Halloween crabs ducked into holes as we approached. All of these animals acted as if they had never seen a human before, and the chances that they had were slim. The vivid memory of that trip was crystalized by the familiar sound of rushing water from the sea, the distinct squawks of Scarlet Macaw parrots, and the humid air rising in dewy droplets off wet sand.”
-From the book Two Weeks in Costa Rica
About Corcovado National Park:
Known as the largest lowland rainforest remaining on Central America's Pacific coast, Corcovado National Park is a must see for the dedicated nature enthusiast. The 161-square mile parcel hosts the region's largest populations of several endangered mammals such as jaguars, pumas, ocelots, white-lipped peccaries, and tapirs, as well as significant populations of endangered birds like Scarlet Macaws and Great Curassows. Because of its rich biological diversity, the Corcovado Foundation attributes the park as one of the world’s most important sources for future knowledge about rainforest ecosystems and conservation. The untouched wilderness and shear remoteness will make you feel like you're stepped back in time to a place where nature, not man, rules the world.
Getting There: Sometimes the best places on earth are the hardest to get to—this is definitely the case with Costa Rica’s famous Corcovado National Park. Located in the southwest-most corner of Costa Rica on a large peninsula, the park is accessed only by foot, boat, or small charter plane. Popular jumping off points are Carate (via Puerto Jiménez) and Drake Bay.
Park Setup:
Much of Corcovado is not accessible at all. The jungle is either too thick or too wet. Those areas that are passable have trails leading from one ranger station to the next. The most commonly used trail runs to and from La Leona ranger station and San Pedrillo ranger station. It’s hard to get lost along this stretch because the trail either parallels the beach or is on the beach, but a guide is still recommended for first time visitors. Sirena ranger station, the mid-point of the main trail, serves as the park headquarters and is a popular spot for day tours by boat. Los Patos ranger station, to the east, is harder to access and less commonly used as an entry or exit point. Here is a map to help you get your bearings.
Logistics:
Because hiking between any two ranger stations is at least a full day trip, campsites or simple lodges and meals are offered by the park service. All overnight stays require a permit/reservation which is usually acquired by your local tour guide. If you are hiking without a guide, it is your responsibility to make arrangements through ACOSA. Day-trippers who don’t plan to stay overnight in the park are also asked to make a reservation in advance.
Conditions:
Expect to get wet when hiking in Corcovado. This will either happen because of sweat, humidity, sudden rain, necessary river crossings—or all of the above. You might even be tempted to take a swim along one of the magnificent beaches. Make sure to bring proper clothing and footwear, sunscreen, insect repellant, and lots of bottled water.
Highlight:
The Sirena ranger station is a big highlight because, besides by hiking, it can be accessed via boat or charter plane. The area around the station also provides easy viewing of a variety of plant and wildlife species. Ann Becker, who guides small group experiential adventures in Costa Rica, had this to say about Sirena:
“I have hiked in Corcovado many times and from multiple points of entry in the past 8 years. I never tire of this extraordinary place and all its natural splendor. However, it is Sirena, the park headquarters and heart of Corcovado that calls me time and again. Even after one has arrived on the Osa Peninsula, it is hard work to get to Sirena (most often by boat or several hours of hiking). The trip is not for the faint of heart. With its myriad trails, rivers, primary and secondary forests, Sirena is unquestionably one of the most rugged areas of Costa Rica. It is hot, humid jungle. But the reward is worth it. Sirena is an ideal location to witness amazing biodiversity.
Some of my most treasured Sirena moments are those in which I have had the opportunity to experience ‘nature in action’, moments that exemplify the cycle of life: a magnificent blue morpho butterfly ensnared in the web of a golden orb spider; a crocodile floating down the Rio Sirena with a pelican tightly clasped within its jaws; a little agouti systematically and patiently readying its nest in the hollow of a fallen tree. And then there are the moments of just listening to the sounds; while the jungle may appear still, it is never silent.
In Sirena, the grandeur and magic of nature surrounds you. If you choose to visit, immerse yourself in all the sights, smells and sounds. Engage fully in the ‘here and now.’ ” –Ann Becker
Corcovado Facts: Park admission is $10 per day (not including lodging or meals at the ranger stations).The best time to visit is from December to April, as it is the driest. Temperature ranges from 27°C to 35°C (80°F to 95°F).Annual rainfall totals are between 3000-4000mm (10-13 feet!). All four of Costa Rica’s monkey species live in the park. Have you hiked in Corcovado? Let us know what your highlight was by leaving a comment below.
To learn more about Costa Rica, buy our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com
Corcovado National Park
“Feeling like explorers discovering a new land, we walked along the faint trail through fresh spiderwebs and among strange bird calls high in the canopy. Around every corner, there was something different. Monkeys plucked wild fruit from trees, mother ring-tailed coatis led their babies across the jungle floor, and orange and black Halloween crabs ducked into holes as we approached. All of these animals acted as if they had never seen a human before, and the chances that they had were slim. The vivid memory of that trip was crystalized by the familiar sound of rushing water from the sea, the distinct squawks of Scarlet Macaw parrots, and the humid air rising in dewy droplets off wet sand.”
-From the book Two Weeks in Costa Rica
About Corcovado National Park:
Known as the largest lowland rainforest remaining on Central America's Pacific coast, Corcovado National Park is a must see for the dedicated nature enthusiast. The 161-square mile parcel hosts the region's largest populations of several endangered mammals such as jaguars, pumas, ocelots, white-lipped peccaries, and tapirs, as well as significant populations of endangered birds like Scarlet Macaws and Great Curassows. Because of its rich biological diversity, the Corcovado Foundation considers the park to be one of the world’s most important sources for future knowledge about rainforest ecosystems and conservation. The untouched wilderness and shear remoteness will make you feel like you've stepped back in time to a place where nature, not man, rules the world.
Getting There: Sometimes the best places on earth are the hardest to get to—this is definitely the case with Costa Rica’s famous Corcovado National Park. Located in the southwest-most corner of Costa Rica on a large peninsula, the park is accessed only by foot, boat, or small charter plane. Popular jumping off points are Carate (via Puerto Jiménez) and Drake Bay.
Park Setup:
Much of Corcovado is not accessible at all. The jungle is either too thick or too wet. Those areas that are passable have trails leading from one ranger station to the next. The most commonly used trail runs to and from La Leona ranger station and San Pedrillo ranger station. It’s hard to get lost along this stretch because the trail either parallels the beach or is on the beach, but a guide is still recommended for first time visitors. Sirena ranger station, the mid-point of the main trail, serves as the park headquarters and is a popular spot for day tours by boat. Los Patos ranger station, to the east, is harder to access and less commonly used as an entry or exit point. Here is a map to help you get your bearings.
Logistics:
Because hiking between any two ranger stations is at least a full day trip, campsites or simple lodges and meals are offered by the park service. All overnight stays require a permit/reservation which is usually acquired by your local tour guide. If you are hiking without a guide, it is your responsibility to make arrangements through ACOSA. Day-trippers who don’t plan to stay overnight in the park are also asked to make a reservation in advance.
Conditions:
Expect to get wet when hiking in Corcovado. This will either happen because of sweat, humidity, sudden rain, necessary river crossings—or all of the above. You might even be tempted to take a swim along one of the magnificent beaches. Make sure to bring proper clothing and footwear, sunscreen, insect repellant, and lots of bottled water.
Highlight:
The Sirena ranger station is a big highlight because, besides by hiking, it can be accessed via boat or charter plane. The area around the station also provides easy viewing of a variety of plant and wildlife species. Ann Becker, who guides small group experiential adventures in Costa Rica, had this to say about Sirena:
“I have hiked in Corcovado many times and from multiple points of entry in the past 8 years. I never tire of this extraordinary place and all its natural splendor. However, it is Sirena, the park headquarters and heart of Corcovado that calls me time and again. Even after one has arrived on the Osa Peninsula, it is hard work to get to Sirena (most often by boat or several hours of hiking). The trip is not for the faint of heart. With its myriad trails, rivers, primary and secondary forests, Sirena is unquestionably one of the most rugged areas of Costa Rica. It is hot, humid jungle. But the reward is worth it. Sirena is an ideal location to witness amazing biodiversity.
Some of my most treasured Sirena moments are those in which I have had the opportunity to experience ‘nature in action’, moments that exemplify the cycle of life: a magnificent blue morpho butterfly ensnared in the web of a golden orb spider; a crocodile floating down the Rio Sirena with a pelican tightly clasped within its jaws; a little agouti systematically and patiently readying its nest in the hollow of a fallen tree. And then there are the moments of just listening to the sounds; while the jungle may appear still, it is never silent.
In Sirena, the grandeur and magic of nature surrounds you. If you choose to visit, immerse yourself in all the sights, smells and sounds. Engage fully in the ‘here and now.’ ” –Ann Becker
Corcovado Facts: Park admission is $10 per day (not including lodging or meals at the ranger stations).The best time to visit is from December to April, as it is the driest. Temperature ranges from 27°C to 35°C (80°F to 95°F).Annual rainfall totals are between 3000-4000mm (10-13 feet!). All four of Costa Rica’s monkey species live in the park. Have you hiked in Corcovado? Let us know what your highlight was by leaving a comment below.
To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com
February 18, 2013
Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve
“From the southernmost point on the Nicoya Peninsula, we took in the spectacular view of the cove. Haze lifted off the ocean’s cerulean waters. To our backs, steep hills brimmed with vegetation that abruptly met the palm and almond trees growing below. In the distance to the south stood a tall island with sharp cliffs, Isla Cabo Blanco. Even from far away, we could see the hundreds of nesting Brown Booby seabirds swarming.”
Cabo Blaco Nature Reserve was the inspiration for this excerpt from our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Situated just south of Montezuma, Cabo Blanco became Costa Rica’s first nature reserve in 1963. In that regard, Cabo Blanco epitomizes the country’s commitment to conservation and is a must-see for visitors to the southern Nicoya Peninsula. Below are some tips for planning your visit.
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. The park is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so plan accordingly.
Cost: Admission is $10 per person.
What to Bring
Plenty of water as you’ll be hiking a little over five miles (about two hours each way) in 80+ degree heat.
Food (the park is very remote; there isn’t a mini-super (convenience store) for miles, so be sure to pack a lunch or, at the very least, some snacks).
Sunscreen
Appropriate footwear (the trail isn't too tough so you can get away with sneakers but hiking boots are best).Binoculars (to spot birds like trogans, jays, motmots, and kingfisher hidden in the canopy). Camera (to permanently capture all of the amazing wildlife you’ll see, such as gentle coatis, howler monkeys, white-faced capuchin monkeys, exotic birds, and even big cats if you’re lucky).
Bathing suit- The trail leads to a beautiful, remote beach. You’ll definitely want to take a quick dip in the warm Pacific after a long hike, but know that the beach isn’t the best for swimming as it drops suddenly into chest-deep water.
A beautiful pair of Violaceous Trogons Getting There: The park is somewhat off-the-beaten path so it tends to see fewer visitors compared to many of Costa Rica’s other national parks, such as Manuel Antonio. If you have a rental car, you can drive right to the ranger station. If you’re taking the public bus (< $2), you will be dropped off at the turnaround before the park entrance and you’ll have a short walk to the ranger station. The last public bus back to Montezuma arrives in early afternoon (check the schedule when you’re in Costa Rica for the most up-to-date time), so be sure to leave plenty of time for your hike back to the bus stop.
The Reward: Our hike through Cabo Blanco was the perfect amount of physical activity and wildlife viewing. Along the rugged trails we got to see gigantic trees draped with vines, howler monkeys grunting in the canopy, a family of coati foraging on the forest floor, and dozens of different bird species.
What did you see on your visit? Leave a comment below or post pictures to our Facebook page.
To learn more about Costa Rica, buy our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com
Cabo Blaco Nature Reserve was the inspiration for this excerpt from our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Situated just south of Montezuma, Cabo Blanco became Costa Rica’s first nature reserve in 1963. In that regard, Cabo Blanco epitomizes the country’s commitment to conservation and is a must-see for visitors to the southern Nicoya Peninsula. Below are some tips for planning your visit.
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. The park is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so plan accordingly. Cost: Admission is $10 per person.
What to Bring
Plenty of water as you’ll be hiking a little over five miles (about two hours each way) in 80+ degree heat.
Food (the park is very remote; there isn’t a mini-super (convenience store) for miles, so be sure to pack a lunch or, at the very least, some snacks).
Sunscreen
Appropriate footwear (the trail isn't too tough so you can get away with sneakers but hiking boots are best).Binoculars (to spot birds like trogans, jays, motmots, and kingfisher hidden in the canopy). Camera (to permanently capture all of the amazing wildlife you’ll see, such as gentle coatis, howler monkeys, white-faced capuchin monkeys, exotic birds, and even big cats if you’re lucky).
Bathing suit- The trail leads to a beautiful, remote beach. You’ll definitely want to take a quick dip in the warm Pacific after a long hike, but know that the beach isn’t the best for swimming as it drops suddenly into chest-deep water.
A beautiful pair of Violaceous Trogons Getting There: The park is somewhat off-the-beaten path so it tends to see fewer visitors compared to many of Costa Rica’s other national parks, such as Manuel Antonio. If you have a rental car, you can drive right to the ranger station. If you’re taking the public bus (< $2), you will be dropped off at the turnaround before the park entrance and you’ll have a short walk to the ranger station. The last public bus back to Montezuma arrives in early afternoon (check the schedule when you’re in Costa Rica for the most up-to-date time), so be sure to leave plenty of time for your hike back to the bus stop.The Reward: Our hike through Cabo Blanco was the perfect amount of physical activity and wildlife viewing. Along the rugged trails we got to see gigantic trees draped with vines, howler monkeys grunting in the canopy, a family of coati foraging on the forest floor, and dozens of different bird species.
What did you see on your visit? Leave a comment below or post pictures to our Facebook page.
To learn more about Costa Rica, buy our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist.
Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.com
