Matthew Houde's Blog, page 38

Diria National Park: Hiking Near Guanacaste's Gold Coast

Costa Rica’s Guanacaste region no doubt hosts some great beach destinations. But for those looking to do some hiking, the terrain, which consists of rolling farm fields and patchwork forests, can seem well, a little flat. To find good hiking, many travelers go to the popular Rincon de la Vieja National Park, northeast of Liberia. Rincon is a great choice, but there is another, lesser known park a bit closer to the coast. Diria National Park is located near the town of Santa Cruz and is less than an hour’s drive from many of the popular beach towns like Tamarindo, Playa Grande, Playa Flamingo, Playa Avellanas, and Playas del Coco. Diria hosts an array of interesting plants and wildlife that you probably won’t see from your beach chair. This post will help get you out of your flip-flops and into your hiking boots­. 

Orientation

The closest major town to the park is the small city of Santa Cruz, which is located just to the north. Most roads leading to Santa Cruz are nicely paved; however, once you get outside of town, the road turns to dirt and has some steep hills, sharp curves, and stream crossings, depending on the season. We highly recommend a 4x4 vehicle at all times of the year. For detailed directions to the park, check out the bottom of this post. 

Trails

The park has three main trails. The first is a short loop which can be hiked in 30-45 minutes. This trail is fairly flat and easy at first but then makes a short accent to a lookout point before turning back toward the ranger station. The second trail continues off the first and is a longer loop (about 1-1.5 hours). This trail follows a ridge along slightly steeper terrain which eventually connects with a dirt road before descending steeply back to the ranger station. From the second trail, you will have nice views of the surrounding mountains. The third trail goes to a seasonal waterfall. At the time of our visit during the dry season (April), the river and waterfall were almost completely dry so we opted not to make the trek. Here’s a trail map to help you get your bearings. 


What You’ll See

When hiking the park, you’ll notice a difference in the plant and animal life compared to that found along the coast. All of you science buffs will appreciate that this is because you will have left the tropical dry forest of the coastal plain and entered the beginning of the premontane forest. That all sounds a little boring but it basically means that Diria is greener and cooler than the beach, especially in the dry season, because it’s at a higher elevation (150-1,050 meters) and the hills capture more moisture. This makes it an important transition zone for plants, birds, and other animals. When the surrounding lowlands are dry and desolate, birds, mammals, and other animals are able to find food and water here. What that means for you is that more animals live there, making it easier for you to spot wildlife.

Mantled Howler Monkey & Baby
Animals: We spotted families of mantled howler and white-faced capuchin monkeys, a few white-nosed coati, several spiny-tailed iguana, and a giant blue morpho butterfly or two. Ironically, we saw the most wildlife once we got off the trail. Troops of monkeys were devouring the ripe mangoes in the trees right next to the ranger station.

Birds: Diria is a birding paradise. We aren’t experts but, with all the species around, have gotten into birding since living in Costa Rica. We were delighted to spot many different types of birds along the trail, including Collared (red bellied) Trogons, Turquoise-browed Motmots, Long-tailed Manikins, a Barred Antshrike, a Great Kiskadee, a Squirrel Cuckoo, a Yellow-throated Euphonia, and a Lineated Woodpecker. For tips on improving your bird photography, check out these hints we got from a pro.

Turquoise-browed Motmot
Plants: Along the trails, you’ll notice some plaques labeling a selection of the tree species found within Diria. Some of them have a wide range like the Guanacaste tree while others, like the laurel, grow here specifically because of that extra moisture. Others we saw included the pochote, ceiba, gumbo limbo, mango, and many more that we could not identify.

What to Wear/Bring

On your way to Diria, stock up on snacks and refreshments in Santa Cruz. Although the ranger station does have basic facilities (they are very basic), there isn’t anything else in the immediate area. Santa Cruz is also a great place to sit down for a meal. There are plenty of sodas (local mom and pop restaurants) just off the main avenue. For the trail, a pair of sneakers will suffice in the dry season but we recommend hiking boots for the rainier months. A hat and sunscreen are also a good idea for the dry season when the canopy is thin and many of the trees have lost their leaves. 

Directions

*Note: Costa Rica is known for having poor signage but it is especially bad getting to Diria. There are almost no signs until you’re right outside of the park. If you get lost, your best bet is to ask a local. Costa Ricans are very friendly people and almost always willing to help.

Coming from the north on Highway 21, enter Santa Cruz. Take a right onto Calle Central in Santa Cruz (at the Banco National). Continue on Calle Central until you see a large church on your left and a public park on your right. Take your next right. Go through five intersections and take a left at the sixth one to get onto Calle 12 (Note: Like everywhere else in Costa Rica, most roads in Santa Cruz are not marked or named. We use them here because Google maps does). Calle 12 will lead you out of Santa Cruz to the south. In about six kilometers, you will come to the small village of Arado, marked by a soccer field. Stay straight and the road will turn to dirt. Follow this dirt road until a major fork, stay left and follow signs for Diria National Park (about six kilometers more). When you reach the next fork, pat yourself on the back because you made it! Take a right and a quick left at the bottom of the hill. The ranger station is across the river (river bed in the dry season).  
*     *     * If you’re visiting Costa Rica’s Gold Coast, consider heading inland for a day trip to Diria National Park. Diria is a wonderful off-the-beaten path park that sees little foot traffic and offers the chance to see plants and wildlife that you wouldn’t otherwise see at the beach. So turn in your towel and hit the trail. 



To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist. 

Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.  

Packing for Your Move to Costa Rica: Advice from Expats

Right before we moved to Costa Rica, we did a post about what we were bringing. We itemized the contents of each of our eight suitcases (yup, that’s all we brought!). Now that we’ve been in Costa Rica for nine months and have a much better idea of what we actually need to live here, we thought it was time for an update. To get more opinions, we also asked four other expats who recently made the move. This post will share our collective advice on what we brought that we didn’t need, what we brought that we use all the time, and what we wish we had brought. 

Us (Jenn & Matt) What we brought that we didn’t need: coffee grinder (can be hard to find whole bean coffee); blender (every place we’ve lived has had one); nice clothes (it’s so casual here we seldom dress up beyond a cotton dress/polo shirt); hairdryer (it’s so hot Jenn almost always air dries); bathrobe; dressy shoes/heels; anything leather (molds like crazy).

What we brought that we’re so glad we did: nice pots and pans (difficult to find quality ones); camera, cell phones, computers (electronics are very expensive); quality knives; nice beach towels; our favorite shampoos, bath, and skin care products; sunscreen (very expensive here); shaver refills; hiking boots; headlamps; basic tool kit; electronic copies of all important documents.

What we wish we brought: more Advil (sold by the pill in CR) & other over-the-counter meds and vitamins; Space Saver bags (great for storing extra clothes/prevents mildew); a good quality non-stick pan; silica packets for camera dry box or sticking in suitcases (prevents mold/moisture); back-up hard drives; lightweight hats for sun protection; tire repair kit for car; office supplies; snacks (especially nuts like almonds); peanut butter; beer cozies (gotta keep the Imperial cold! These are very overpriced in CR). Here’s What Other Expats Had to Say:

Samantha Wei Samantha is co-founder of a leading travel blog in Costa Rica, My Tan Feet, which she founded with her boyfriend, Yeison. She lives in Playas del Coco.

When I moved to Costa Rica, I brought two full suitcases with me. Luckily I didn’t need to bring home or kitchen items as my future home was already furnished by my boyfriend. However, we ended up moving from the mountains to the beach two weeks after I got there so my wardrobe was a bit ill fitting since I brought colder temperature clothes.

Some things I brought but didn’t end up needing are: boots, robe, my point and shoot camera (my boyfriend had a much better one), a Spanish textbook (I found online software to be more helpful), my nail polish (they all dried out), heels and flats.

Some things I wish I brought: more framed pictures, a wireless mouse, a laptop fan, more Chinese sauces, food and snacks, a more durable water bottle, a day bag, a phone protector, an epilator, running shorts, hiking sandals and a poncho.

Some things I was happy I brought: my Nintendo Wii, sunglasses, visor, my external hard drive, iPod, my beach tote, a good spatula and lots of hair ties.

I guess most of the things you can attribute to not being prepared for a beach life and finding out that electronics are much more expensive in Costa Rica. I found out my wardrobe became much more casual living at the beach and didn’t end up needing several of my clothes that were more formal.

One thing I wish I brought the most? My puppy! Unfortunately she is a pretty big dog and it wasn’t worth taking her away from my parent’s house to fly 3000 miles to a very hot environment. At least in Coco there are plenty of dogs that I can play with at the beach!

Haydee Stuart Haydee Stuart is co-founder of Pollo Pass, a fun and informative online-resource guide specializing in Costa Rica. She currently lives in Santa Teresa, Mal Pais. Be sure to check her website for exclusive online deals and the latest travel tips and information. 

Almost three years ago I quit my job in Los Angeles and decided to pack (almost all) my stuff and move to Costa Rica. Since then I have gone back and forth a number of times and looking back on that first move I had it (almost) all wrong.

Of course being a female, the majority of my luggage was packed with clothes. Shorts, tanks, bikinis, dresses, jeans, leggings, sweaters, you name it, but needless to say I over-packed, or better over-dosed, on clothing. Instead I wished I had packed more quality sheets and/or towels, which are hard to come by here. In addition to a plethora of clothes was also my mound of makeup & variety of shoe options, both in the end turned out to be just excess baggage weight. Don’t get me wrong, I like being “made-up” but in this weather I am lucky if my deodorant stays on let alone my eye shadow!

As far as the shoes go, depending where you plan on living/visiting I would suggest investing in nothing more than a few pairs of flip-flops and “fancy” sandals and 1 pair of sneakers. In lieu of hefty shoe options that you won’t wear, bring a few of your favorite can't-live-without beauty or hygiene products to avoid missing them and/or paying double. Mine included a leave-in conditioner/detangler, face wash, razor refills and of course sunscreen, lots of it!

Although the multi card reader I brought has been awesome to grab pictures from new friends along the way, I am kicking myself for not bringing an external hard-drive and extra cables/chargers. I have had to buy all of these things along the way and my wallet is not too happy about it.

Lastly I can recommend for anyone moving to Costa Rica to toss one luggage bag and instead opt to pack your stuff in a cooler. This is one of the best things I did (the 3rd time around). Not only does it protect your stuff, it also is great for beach bonfires, BBQ’s and triples as a table while on the go!

Jen Seymour & Greg Seymour  Jen and Greg Seymour moved to Grecia in June of 2013, after quitting their jobs and breaking free of the rat race in North America where “bigger was better.” You can find Jen and Greg at their blogs: Costa Rica Chica (Jen) and Costa Rica Curious (Greg).

Things we brought, that we’re so glad we did
Jen Seymour

When we moved here 9 months ago, we only brought 9 pieces of luggage with us. This was all we owned at this point, after selling our houses, cars, toys and furniture. We spent a lot of time planning exactly what we needed to bring with us, and even though we knew we wouldn’t think of everything, I think we did a pretty darn good job.

The best things we brought with us when we moved here were our apple products. Greg and I have an apple family – we both have iPhones, iPods, and Mac laptops, and I also have the iPad Mini. The iPhones are great, as we unlocked them in the States and got SIM cards here with minutes to use as local phones, we just re-load them when we need to, about once a month (and at only $2 a pop!). We can iMessage or Facetime our friends and family for free. For me, one of the best gadgets on the iPhone is the camera – I use it ALL the time when I’m out and about. It’s so easy to whip out and get to the camera really fast, and it actually takes really good pictures. The iPad Mini is also great, and I mainly use it as a reader with the kindle app. We are both avid readers, and Greg has an actual Kindle which he uses. We don’t have a TV here, but we watch movies all the time on our laptops – which works out great. We don’t miss having a TV at all! It’s much nicer to take a walk outside or sit on our front patio and watch the world go by.

Other items we brought, that we use all the time: 

Clothing: flip flops, hiking boots, crocs, tank tops, sun hats and shorts. I also wear skorts (a skirt with shorts built in underneath) ALL the time – I love them! So comfy and functional too.  

Drug Store: Ibuprofen, Excedrin, Nyquil (and other cold/sinus medicines), Pepto-bismol, Band-Aids, Neosporin, good razors for shaving. And lots of sunscreen – sunscreen is very pricey here and is definitely something you need, Costa Rica is only 10 degrees from the equator.

Kitchen Products (note – I love to bake!): Kitchen Aid Mixer, coffee pot, crock pot, coffee grinder, food processor, dutch oven, a good knife set and Silpats (non-stick baking mats).

Other miscellaneous items: Toolbox with some general tools, batteries, yoga mats, back packs, umbrellas and reusable shopping bags (since we don’t have a car, these work great for toting groceries on the bus). Oh, and last but not least – The Executioner, an electric tennis racket. With the touch of a button, you can swing and zap those pesky Costa Rican bugs!

Something else that didn’t fit into any of our suitcases, but we brought anyway: our sense of adventure and our sense of humor. Both of these things have helped us tremendously to adjust to Costa Rica and live here happily. Trust me, when I say – these are two things you ABSOLUTELY need to survive here.

Unnecessary Evils 
Greg Seymour

Imagine that you were stranded on a deserted island and you had to live the rest of your life with just 9 suitcases worth of stuff – what would you regret taking?

Ok, so we aren’t stranded and Costa Rica is not deserted and everyone knows it is not an island. Right? We did, however, move here with only 9 suitcases and while we did a great job of managing the number of suitcases and their weight we did manage to bring a couple of things that we just do not need here:

1)  The Weighted Hula-Hoop – I know what you are thinking, “you are moving to Costa Rica, how can you not bring the weighted Hula-Hoop?” Well, we did bring it and I after I put it together (oh yeah, in addition to being weighted, it tears down for easy travel) it sat in the corner just waiting to be twirled. My wife protests that she has indeed used it and that it has some value here and it is fine, really, as long as she dusts it once a month or so. 

2)  The Bug Net – So this one may be useful, one day. Currently we are up in the mountains of the Central Valley and while there are bugs, it is not buggy like down by the beach and in the rainforest. Essentially, the bug net is a hoop that you hang from the ceiling and it drapes a net over your bed to create a barrier between you and the pests. It is bad enough that we brought the net and don’t use it, but worse than that is this is not our first net. Yes, we bought 2 nets that we don’t use. Luckily we only packed one. It was impossible to pack the first one because its hoop was too big to fit into any one of our suitcases. Oh yah, it was not returnable to boot – some lucky shopper at Goodwill in Dallas will love this once they figure out what it is. 

3)  Landline Phone Handset – We had actually thought this one through. Before we left the States we set up a Dallas phone number with Magic Jack and paid for the VOIP service for 5 years. In order to use Magic Jack we were required to, we thought, use a landline phone. So we brought 2 phones, a cheapie corded phone and a cordless phone with a base plus 1 additional handset. So we were prepared – the problem was that Magic Jack did not work so well with the old-school phones and we ended up finding and installing the Magic Jack iPhone app on our cell phones, and this worked Magically. 

So even after over a year of thought going into our move, we still brought a couple of things that should have stayed in Dallas. Overall though, we did a phenomenal job of downsizing from an upper-middle class lifestyle and all its trappings to a much more simplified life. 

Anyone need a Hula-Hoop? It is weighted and it disassembles for travel and, more importantly, storage. 

*     *     * Questions/Comments Muchas gracias to Samantha, Haydee, Jen, and Greg for sharing their experiences. We hope that this post is helpful to those people trying to figure out what they need to bring to Costa Rica. 

Have you made the move to CR? What tips would you give to people about to take the leap?  Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica about ten years ago. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels,  Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their careers in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on their blog or via Twitter and Facebook. 

Bird Photography Tips: How to Get That Perfect Shot

As many of you who follow our Facebook page may know, since moving to Costa Rica we have become increasingly obsessed with the many beautiful birds the country has to offer. With around 880 species identified here, it’s hard not to start noticing birds all around you.

Like many people who travel to Costa Rica, we decided to invest in a fairly nice digital SLR camera and zoom lens in order to capture the beautiful scenery, wildlife, and especially the birds. It is not quite professional grade but still complicated enough to confuse or intimidate its user (i.e., us). Although we have learned a lot about our camera and its different settings over time, we have to admit that sometimes we just give up and click the auto button. Inspired to get even better shots, and make the best of our technology, we decided to ask a pro for a bit of advice. 

Jeffery Muñoz is a professional Costa Rican photographer and owner of Distinctive Expeditions, a travel company which offers traditional nature tours as well as photography-specific tours. Jeff has been inspiring us for years by posting hundreds of amazing bird pictures on his Facebook page. We asked Jeff if he would share a couple of secrets with us amateurs and this is what he had to say:  

“There are two tips that I would like to share, as a photographer. These are the two most common issues that most of the people who come to Costa Rica will find in the tropics when they want to photograph birds. One is related to the birds specifically and the second is to get better photos inside of the forest as well. I hope these two tips will help you get those great shots that you are looking to get in Costa Rica.” –Jeffery Muñoz

Tip 1

“One of the biggest challenges for nature photographers is how to photograph birds; most of them never stay steady for more than 5 seconds on a single branch. They keep jumping up and down and all it takes is just one little turn of their head to make them look out of focus. My first tip in photographing birds is to select the AI Servo (Canon) or Continuous Auto Focus (Nikon) function. This feature will keep focusing on the main target when the Auto Focus button is pressed. By doing this, the auto focus system will keep tracking the bird even if it moves. Of course you might need to follow the bird and keep it in your focal point so that if it turns around, you will always get it in focus. Just one more thing, don’t forget to keep the focal point on the bird’s eye to get that great effect of a well-focused subject.”  –Jeffery Muñoz

  Here’s one of Jeff’s amazing shots. You can see, with this pair of Scarlet Macaws, how the Continuous Focus Mode is very important to getting the shot since these birds are constantly moving. We must admit that upon further investigation, our Focus Mode was set to Auto and not Continuous. Although this has worked a lot of the time, I can’t tell you how many times our camera has taken too long to focus on a moving subject and we have lost the shot. Great tip, Jeff, we'll be sure to fix our setting now!  









Camera: Canon 5D Mark III.
Lens: Canon 300mm f/4 with Extender 1.4 III.
ISO: 1250.
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter speed: 1/1600 (with tripod)


Tip 2

“My second tip is related to the low light conditions that we might find on an overcast day or even worse, inside the rainforest where most of the light is absorbed by the treetops. As you may know, there is a rule of thumb related to handheld photography to avoid blurred photographs: the shutter speed shouldn’t be less than the size of your lens. For example, if I am shooting with a 400mm lens, my shutter speed shouldn’t be less than 1/400 sec (one-400th of a second). This is to compensate for the shaking from handholding the lens and the camera. 


“Sometimes to reach this shutter speed we might need to sacrifice the aperture, ISO and exposure, but the biggest issue we might have is related to the ISO. ISO is a great way to increase the sensitivity of the camera sensor by letting it get more light. Don’t forget though that with a high ISO we also gain digital noise in our photos. My best advice for shooting inside the rainforest without pushing the ISO too high and affecting the photos with digital noise is to bring a monopod or even better a tripod. With this technique my shots will always be sharp with a minimum amount of noise. Later, I can eliminate the noise with developing software without making the photo look too soft.” –Jeffery Muñoz

  This is yet another amazing shot from Jeff. Not only is the Resplendent Quetzal one of the most elusive birds in Costa Rica, it is also one of the hardest to photograph. These birds live in the misty cloud forest where low light conditions are almost constant. 

This photo shows how you can get a good shot even in low light. By increasing the ISO (here to 2500), Jeff allowed more light to hit the sensor. A higher ISO can also help with the blurriness that can result from hand holding. Because the camera takes the photo quicker, the photo is less affected if you move or the subject moves. 

Of course you don’t want to increase the ISO too much because then your photo will have digital noise. That’s why Jeff increased the ISO to a medium level of 2500 and used a tripod to steady the shot. 


Camera: Canon 5D Mark III.
Lens: Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L.
ISO: 2500.
Aperture: f/5.6
Shutter speed: 1/160 (with tripod)
*     *     * We can’t thank Jeff enough for his willingness to share these great tips with us. It’s hard not to get inspired after seeing more of his amazing photos. Since talking with him, we have spent several hours under the trees outside, playing with different ISO settings and chasing the birds. You can follow our bird photography progress on our Facebook page where we post different feathered friends every Friday. And of course, if you are serious about photography and birding, make sure to take one of Jeff’s amazing photo expeditions here in Costa Rica. 

Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica about ten years ago. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels,  Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their successful jobs in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on their blog or via Twitter and Facebook.  Post by: Matthew Houde and Jennifer Turnbull-Houde

A Costa Rican Wedding

A couple of months ago, Matt got a call from one of our friends in Costa Rica. Not just any friend, but the one who probably played the biggest role in our decision to move here. The call was from Roy, the person who introduced us to Costa Rica almost ten years ago. If you’ve read our book, you’ll remember him well. He worked with Matt in the States and convinced us to visit his beautiful country. We fell in love with the amazing wildlife, postcard-worthy beaches, and perfect climate, and traveled to Costa Rica almost every year after that, making sure to see Roy each time. We loved catching up with our Costa Rican friend and hearing how life was treating him.

The news Roy shared on this recent call was his engagement! He had been dating a lovely Costa Rican woman whom we had gotten to know while we were in Manuel Antonio during our first month living in Costa Rica. After we left Manuel Antonio and started traveling around the country, seeing Roy and his fiance became a little more difficult, but we knew we had to make it to their wedding—we had to—even if it meant driving all the way from the other side of Costa Rica (which we did and don’t regret for a minute).

As two gringos going to a Tico wedding, we had to do some research on proper etiquette and traditions. All we needed was to show up wearing a certain color dress or tie only to learn that the color symbolized bad luck, sorrow, or, worse, failed marriages. The Ticos are laid back as everyone says, but are also typically very proper and take formal events seriously.


Our fact-finding mission didn’t reveal any taboo colors but we did learn some interesting things about Costa Rican wedding traditions. First, weddings are a family affair. Everyone from the bride’s and groom’s side attends, even if they live far away. This was no surprise because most Costa Ricans hold family in the highest regard and prioritize spending time with loved ones over everything else. If you’ve ever gone to the beach on a Sunday in Costa Rica and have seen the families set up for a full day together, you know what we mean. 

Other traditions which are a bit more foreign to us as Americans are that the bride often wears a black, silk dress, and the groom wears a white shirt that has been embroidered by his wife-to-be, symbolizing the bride’s devotion to her future husband. Another is the exchange of 13 gold coins, which symbolizes dowry and the groom’s commitment to the bride.

One of the more fun traditions is the serenata in which the groom serenades his future bride by singing her love songs along with some of his friends. Finally (no surprise here either), there is a big party after the ceremony with lots of music, dancing, and food. Casados (traditional plates of meat or fish along with rice, beans, and side salads) or arroz con pollo (chicken with rice) are typical fare. The interesting part is that tradition says that the larger the portions you provide, the greater respect you have for your guests.

We didn’t see all of these traditions at Roy’s wedding. He did serenade his soon-to-be wife in traditional fashion a week before, which made us very happy, but the bride wore a beautiful white dress and there was no exchange of coins. We don’t think Roy wore an embroidered shirt either but many of these traditions are probably a little old fashioned and not as common as they were years ago. Some of the differences could be religious too.

What was consistent with tradition was the large gathering of family, the grand celebration after the ceremony, and the plentiful, typical food. After the ceremony, we were invited to join the family for the reception. Everyone sat around together while we ate and drank. On the menu was arroz con pollo, the largest portion of rice pudding you’ve ever seen, and wedding cake for dessert. To drink, we had an amazing concoction of diced tropical fruit in sweetened water. So refreshing!
 
All of the portions were huge- they were definitely showing their guests respect :) *     *     * The reception was held at a neighbor's house.
One of the most interesting things we observed was that the bride and groom helped serve food to the guests. In the United States, the emphasis is definitely on the bride and groom not lifting a finger so the contrast was stark to us. Since we’ve only been to one Costa Rican wedding, we can’t say if this is typical but can surmise that it could relate to the importance of respecting your guests.

*     *     * Overall, the wedding celebration was very similar to what we are used to. Every bit of it may have been in another language and there certainly were some cultural differences, but the most important things were the same. The day was all about family and close friends coming together to celebrate love and commitment. It was wonderful to be able to be a part of our dear friend Roy’s wedding and we wish him and his new wife a lifetime of peace and happiness.

Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica about ten years ago. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels,  Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their successful jobs in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on their blog or via Twitter and Facebook. 

Visiting the Beautiful Nauyaca Waterfalls

Costa Rica has plenty of stunning waterfalls but probably the most spectacular, in our eyes, are the Nauyaca located in the mountains of the southern zone. With two sets of falls measuring a combined 61 meters (200 feet) tall and a large natural pool for swimming, the Nauyaca waterfalls are indeed a sight to see. 

Although the Nauyaca waterfalls are a popular destination in Costa Rica, we were surprised to discover when planning our visit that there isn’t much information about how to access them on foot. This post will provide everything you need to plan your visit.

Location

The Nauyaca waterfalls lie deep in the tropical rainforest in southern Costa Rica. Despite the remote location, the trailhead is located just 20 minutes from Dominical and is surprisingly easy to get to. If you’re visiting the popular destinations of Manuel Antonio or Uvita or Dominical in the Costa Ballena, you can definitely visit the Nauyaca on a day trip.

Getting There

Many people choose to arrive via horseback tour but if you’re up for a little hiking, the falls also can be accessed on foot. Either way, the starting point is the office of Don Lulo, the company that owns the property and offers the horseback tour.

To get to Don Lulo’s office, take Route 243 off the Costanera highway towards San Isidro del General. In about 10 kilometers (6 miles) just before the town of Platanillo, the small Don Lulo office will be on the right. If you’re hiking, you’ll need to stop here to buy your ticket to the falls ($5). To get to the trailhead, take the first road on the right after Don Lulo. The road turns to dirt here and is very steep in places so you’ll need four-wheel drive. The trailhead is about 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) from the main road and there is a parking area where the horseback tour starts.

The Trail

The horseback tour and hike use the same well-maintained trail, first following beside the beautiful Baru River and then ascending a steep hill. If you keep an eye out, you might even see some wildlife, like monkeys or birds. We were fortunate on our visit to spot a Great Currasow, a large, turkey-like bird found only in the tropics, and tons of different hummingbird species. 


From the trailhead, the hike is 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) in each direction. The trail is very easy in places, following a rough dirt road, and moderately difficult in others, with a few steep, rocky areas near the falls. It isn’t too difficult or long though and would be fine for children. Just be sure to pack plenty of water as the trail is directly in the sun in many places and temps can get quite hot.

The Reward: The Waterfalls

Once you reach the falls, you’ll be happy you made the trek. The Nauyaca sits in a wide canyon that is covered in lush greenery, made even greener from the constant mist of the cascading water. There are both upper and lower falls with steps leading to both but you’ll definitely want to check out the lower ones first. From below this 18 meter (60 foot) cascade you’ll have the best view of both the impressive waterfall in front of you and the lofty ones above. The lower falls are also where you can take a swim to cool off. There’s a huge pool of blue water with plenty of room for everyone to have their space and relax. If you need to change into a swimsuit, facilities are available right before the steps down to the falls. Tip: The rocks around the lower falls can be slippery so bring some good gripping water shoes if you have them.

After you visit the lower falls, be sure to check out the upper falls which have an impressive 43 meter (140 foot) cliff with several more cascades. Here there are some large, smooth rocks that make for a good spot for picnicking.

*     *     * The Nauyaca waterfalls are definitely an impressive natural attraction that shouldn’t be missed. Their close proximity to popular tourist destinations along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast make them an easy-to-access activity for those looking for some off-the-beaten path adventure. For us, sitting in the cool pools after an invigorating hike really is the perfect meddling of adventure and relaxation. After all, isn’t that what Costa Rica is all about?



You Might Also Like: 
The Costa Ballena: Uvita, Dominical, and Ojochal
Manuel Antonio Trip Planning
Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge

To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist. 

Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.   Post by: Jennifer Turnbull-Houde & Matthew Houde

Nauyaca Waterfalls

Costa Rica has plenty of stunning waterfalls but probably the most spectacular, in our eyes, are the Nauyaca located in the mountains of the southern zone. With two sets of falls measuring a combined 61 meters (200 feet) tall and a large natural pool for swimming, the Nauyaca waterfalls are indeed a sight to see. 

Although the Nauyaca waterfalls are a popular destination in Costa Rica, we were surprised to discover when planning our visit that there isn’t much information about how to access them on foot. This post will provide everything you need to plan your visit.

Location

The Nauyaca waterfalls lie deep in the tropical rainforest in southern Costa Rica. Despite the remote location, the trailhead is located just 20 minutes from Dominical and is surprisingly easy to get to. If you’re visiting the popular destinations of Manuel Antonio or Uvita or Dominical in the Costa Ballena, you can definitely visit the Nauyaca on a day trip.

Getting There

Many people choose to arrive via horseback tour but if you’re up for a little hiking, the falls also can be accessed on foot. Either way, the starting point is the office of Don Lulo, the company that owns the property and offers the horseback tour.

To get to Don Lulo’s office, take Route 243 off the Costanera highway towards San Isidro del General. In about 10 kilometers (6 miles) just before the town of Platanillo, the small Don Lulo office will be on the right. If you’re hiking, you’ll need to stop here to buy your ticket to the falls ($5). To get to the trailhead, take the first road on the right after Don Lulo. The road turns to dirt here and is very steep in places so you’ll need four-wheel drive. The trailhead is about 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) from the main road and there is a parking area where the horseback tour starts.

The Trail

The horseback tour and hike use the same well-maintained trail, first following beside the beautiful Baru River and then ascending a steep hill. If you keep an eye out, you might even see some wildlife, like monkeys or birds. We were fortunate on our visit to spot a Great Currasow, a large, turkey-like bird found only in the tropics, and tons of different hummingbird species. 


From the trailhead, the hike is 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) in each direction. The trail is very easy in places, following a rough dirt road, and moderately difficult in others, with a few steep, rocky areas near the falls. It isn’t too difficult or long though and would be fine for children. Just be sure to pack plenty of water as the trail is directly in the sun in many places and temps can get quite hot.

The Reward: The Waterfalls

Once you reach the falls, you’ll be happy you made the trek. The Nauyaca sits in a wide canyon that is covered in lush greenery, made even greener from the constant mist of the cascading water. There are both upper and lower falls with steps leading to both but you’ll definitely want to check out the lower ones first. From below this 18 meter (60 foot) cascade you’ll have the best view of both the impressive waterfall in front of you and the lofty ones above. The lower falls are also where you can take a swim to cool off. There’s a huge pool of blue water with plenty of room for everyone to have their space and relax. If you need to change into a swimsuit, facilities are available right before the steps down to the falls. Tip: The rocks around the lower falls can be slippery so bring some good gripping water shoes if you have them.

After you visit the lower falls, be sure to check out the upper falls which have an impressive 43 meter (140 foot) cliff with several more cascades. Here there are some large, smooth rocks that make for a good spot for picnicking.

*     *     * The Nauyaca waterfalls are definitely an impressive natural attraction that shouldn’t be missed. Their close proximity to popular tourist destinations along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast make them an easy-to-access activity for those looking for some off-the-beaten path adventure. For us, sitting in the cool pools after an invigorating hike really is the perfect meddling of adventure and relaxation. After all, isn’t that what Costa Rica is all about?


To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist. 

Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.  

The Enchanting Rio Celeste

Set in the mountains in rural northwestern Costa Rica, the Rio Celeste (Blue River) and waterfall is a breathtaking natural wonder that one has to see to believe. The brilliant blue water, which seems altered at first blush, gets its show-stopping azul hue from a chemical reaction between volcanic minerals. A walk through Tenorio Volcano National Park will take you along the river bed, where you will see (and smell) the Rio Celeste turn from clear to vivid turquoise. 

The Rio Celeste is a wonderful addition to your itinerary if you’re visiting the Arenal Volcano area or any of the beach towns in northern Guanacaste. Below we share the essentials for planning your visit.

Orientation

The Rio Celeste runs through Tenorio Volcano National Park in northwestern Costa Rica, north of Lake Arenal. This area of Costa Rica is very rural and features verdant rolling hills, farmland, and pasture complete with plenty of grazing cattle. If you’re looking for an authentic travel experience, be sure to spend a couple of nights in the Tenorio area. Because this area is more remote and has fewer amenities, it sees far fewer tourists than many other parts of the country.

Tip: The Tenorio area is best explored with a rental car, though the public bus is available for the more adventurous. 

Hills around Tenorio Volcano, with a glimpse of Arenal Volcano in the distance. Getting There

Tenorio Volcano National Park is a lofty 31,794 acre (12,867 hectare) swath of land that can be accessed through two points: the town of Bijagua on the western side of the park and the town of Guatuso on the eastern side of the park.

If you’re coming from the La Fortuna/Arenal area, you’ll want to enter the park from Guatuso. From La Fortuna, follow Route 4 north for about 40 kilometers until you get to the Rio Frio bridge in Guatuso. Here, take your next left onto a dirt road (follow signs for the Rio Celeste Hideaway). You’ll follow this smooth dirt road for 22 kilometers (20 minutes) until you reach the village of Rio Celeste. Here you’ll pick up the road leading to the trailhead. This road is a bit hilly (4-wheel drive recommended) but paved in the steepest spots.

If you’re coming from northern Guanacaste (e.g., Liberia, Tamarindo), you’ll want to access the park from Bijagua. From Liberia, head south along the Interamericana highway (Route 1). About six kilometers before Canas, take a left onto Route 6 toward Upala. Follow Route 6 for about 35 kilometers to Bijagua. The road turns to dirt for the final leg from Bijagua to the trailhead.

Tip: The Guatuso entrance to the park tends to be less busy than the Bijagua entrance so you’re more likely to have the trails all to yourself.

Trails

The hike to the Rio Celeste waterfall is moderately difficult with some steep inclines and a few straightforward stream crossings by rope handrail or rickety bridge. The trails are well maintained but almost always muddy. You’ll find yourself looking down at the ground quite a bit as you navigate in search of solid ground and around the huge tree roots. The scenery is beautiful, however, and makes it all worthwhile. As the park is at a high elevation, it hosts primary cloud forest as well as rainforest and is home to an abundance of wildlife. 


The real draw at the park though is, of course, the Rio Celeste. The trail meanders along the serene river, where you can see the Tenideros, the point where two rivers converge and the water turns from crystal clear to stunning blue. Here, you might also detect a strong odor as the chemical reaction between sulfur and calcium carbonate occurs. Another sight is the Poza Azul, a lovely blue pool where you’ll want to take plenty of photos. When you reach the waterfall, it’s a long 250 steps down a nicely constructed staircase. The area around the falls is closed off and no swimming is permitted but you’ll be close enough to get some amazing shots.

Tip: The best time to visit the Rio Celeste is during the dry season of December to April, as rain can cloud the water and dull the turquoise effect.

The 90 meter falls cascade into a deep blue pool Allow 3 – 4 hours if you want to see everything the park has to offer. If you’re looking to do a shorter hike, you can skip the Tenideros and Poza Azul and head straight for the waterfall via the Bijagua entrance. Here’s a trail map to help you get your bearings.

Hours: Open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Admission: $10 at the Bijagua entrance. Admission at the Guatuso entrance was by donation at the time of our visit.

*     *     * The Rio Celeste is definitely a must see for those travelers looking to check another one of Costa Rica’s natural wonders off their list. For us, this unique river and waterfall only confirmed what we already knew: that Costa Rica can keep surprising you with its magical beauty time and time again.



To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist. 

Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.  

Earl's Big Adventure in Costa Rica

Through our website and book, we have connected with lots of different people, from tour operators, authors, and bloggers, to people visiting Costa Rica or thinking of making the move. But even we were surprised when we found out that one of Jenn’s college classmates had also written a book with Costa Rica in the title. What are the chances?


That classmate is Hanna Haidar. Hanna is the author of Earl’s Big Adventure in Costa Rica , a children’s book designed to get kids excited about travel. The book has two main characters: John, a boy from Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and his friend Earl, who is a small blue monkey. Through wonderfully illustrated scenes drawn by Kimberly Newton, we learn that John wants to take Earl on a surf trip to Costa Rica. Earl is excited but has some worries too. Like a lot of kids traveling at a young age, Earl has questions about the language, what the people are like, and what kinds of food they eat. In Hanna’s kid-friendly writing style, John answers these questions with ease, and the two travel to the surfing town of Santa Teresa, Costa Rica.

Original illustration by Kimberly Newton
There are a lot of fun scenes in the book that capture what Costa Rica is really like. A packed bus, mountainous hills, sandy beaches, and a small-town soda (local restaurant) all provide a good visual introduction for kids not knowing what to expect.

The highlight of the book in our opinion, though, is the way that Earl gets over his fear of playing with other children who don’t speak the same language. With John’s encouragement and a little practice, Earl even begins to speak a few words of Spanish on his own, and finds out that foreign kids aren’t all that different.  

Earl’s Big Adventure in Costa Rica is a great book to share with kids who are old enough to understand that they’ll be experiencing a different culture when they travel abroad. Hanna’s writing and Kimberly’s illustrations are both fun and accurate. We’re really glad that we connected with Hanna after all these years and very thankful he sent a copy all the way to Costa Rica for us. Truthfully, after reading the book, we even got a little excited to see what Earl’s next adventure would be. Guess we’ll have to check out Hanna’s second book, Earl’s Big Adventure in Japan and his very adventurous blog. 

For more information about where to purchase Earl’s Big Adventure in Costa Rica, visit Earl’s website.

The Costa Ballena: Uvita, Dominical, and Ojochal

Pick up an old guidebook on Costa Rica, even from just a few years back, and you’ll read that the area known as the Costa Ballena is difficult to access and offers little to travelers. Fast forward a few years and you’ll discover that this is no longer the case. Located just an hour south of the popular beach town of Manuel Antonio, the Costa Ballena, or Whale Coast, is slowly becoming famous for its pristine beaches and rolling green mountains that teem with wildlife.

Below is our guide for one of the most up-and-coming destinations in Costa Rica, the Costa Ballena.
Orientation

The Costa Ballena is a 35 kilometer stretch of coastline in Costa Rica’s south Pacific made up of three major towns: Dominical to the north, Ojochal to the south, and Uvita in between. Each town has a different feel, making the area fun to explore with a rental car. What these towns do have in common is a magnificent coastline and plenty of all-but-abandoned beaches. Another shared trait are the verdant green mountains that rise quickly from the smoothly paved highway. Hidden in these hills are vacation rentals, eco-lodges, bed and breakfasts, and upscale hotels, all with spectacular sunset views.

The Towns of the Costa Ballena

Dominical: A surfer’s escape, Dominical is a laid-back beach town where you can roll out of bed, walk to the beach, and not return until well into the night. With a number of affordable accommodations, eclectic eats, and a busy night life, Dominical attracts backpackers, surfers, and yogis alike. But no matter what you fancy, during the day everyone ends up at the beach. Along a sandy palm-tree lined avenue, dozens of merchants sell souvenirs, and restaurants serve up quick bites alongside cold drinks. Stay for the sunset and you too will fall in love with this small town’s charm.

Uvita: Marked by a small hub of banks, restaurants, grocery stores, and offices near the main highway, Uvita is a town that offers much more than convenient commerce. Take one of the many dirt roads into the mountains and you will discover hidden homes and neighborhoods neatly tucked into the rainforest. From here, you will have breathtaking views of the famous whale tail, a giant sandbar shaped just like that of a whale fin. On the coastal side, a charming Tico neighborhood named Bahía Ballena abuts some of the most beautiful beaches in the country, and one of the only marine national parks in Costa Rica, Marino Ballena. A stop here will surely give a glimpse into real Tico life and show you why Costa Ricans are some of the happiest people on earth.

Ojochal: A popular landing place for expats from the United States, Canada, and all over Europe, Ojochal has quickly become a culinary destination in Costa Rica. Maybe it’s the mixture of cultures or maybe it’s the plentiful tropical ingredients, but it is rare to find so many gourmet restaurants so close to one another—and in the land of rice and beans, of all places. In addition to great food, Ojochal has its own magnificent ocean views, pristine swaths of jungle, and beautiful beaches like Playa Ventanas, known for its intriguing natural caves.

Activities

National Whale Marine Park: One of the only marine parks in the country, Marino Ballena National Park, offers plenty to do for beachgoers. There are several beautiful beaches where you can find your own piece of paradise, all backed by tall palm trees or shrubby beach almonds. Picnicking is commonplace here and you’ll see plenty of families set up with hammocks and grills. The real draw at Marino Ballena though is Punta Uvita, commonly called the whale tail. This naturally occurring sandbar is shaped just like a whale’s tail. At low tide, you can walk its length and explore the rocks and tide pools near the tip. The uneven rocks can be tricky, but the view of the majestic cloud-encased mountains makes it all worthwhile.
 

Whale Watching: The Costa Ballena is named for whales and it’s not just because of the tail-shaped sandbar. Several different whale species can be spotted off the coast during certain times of the year, including false killer, Bryde’s, pilot, and humpback whales. Humpbacks are especially common since they use the area’s temperate waters as a seasonal breeding ground and to rear young. There are two separate humpback migrations, each over several months, which ensures that it is whale season almost year-round. Boat tours will get you up close and personal with these gentle giants and usually leave from the beaches of Uvita.

Surfing: With the biggest waves in the area, Dominical naturally draws the most surfers. But there are some lesser known beaches along the Costa Ballena worth noting as well. Playa Hermosa, just north of Uvita, offers consistent waves for the beginner to intermediate surfer, especially when high swells at Dominical are a little too intimidating. Look for the best break right in front of the new lifeguard stand. For beginners, Uvita’s Playa Colonia is a perfect place to start. Since offshore rock formations tend to ease the swell, this beach inside Marino Ballena National Park offers much more manageable waves for the novice. There are plenty of surf schools in the area if you’re looking to pick up a board. A couple that have been recommended to us are Bodhi Surf School in Bahía Ballena/Uvita or Sunset Surf in Dominical.     

Waterfalls: The lush hills of the Costa Ballena are home to many stunning waterfalls but probably the most famous lies just a half hour into the mountains. The Nauyaca waterfalls is one of Costa Rica’s most impressive cascades with two sets of falls measuring a combined 200 feet tall. The lower falls have a large pool where you can swim and jump into the cool water from the rocks. The upper falls have an impressive 140 foot cliff and are the perfect place to picnic. Most people access the Nauyaca by horseback on a tour, but you can also hike to the falls on your own. Just buy a ticket ($5) at the offices of Don Lulo’s (the company that does the horseback tour) just before the town of Platanillo on the road from Dominical to San Isidro del General (Route 243). The hike is about four kilometers in each direction if you start at the trailhead (requires four-wheel drive). If you don’t have four-wheel drive, the hike is six kilometers from the office. 


Hiking: With the mountains so close to the coast, it’s easy to get in an early morning hike and still be swimming by lunch. A couple of our favorite places for wildlife viewing are the Tesoro Escondido Eco-Reserve in Playa Hermosa de Uvita and Hacienda Barú in Dominical.

The Tesoro Escondido Reserve sees fewer visitors than many other parks in Costa Rica so you have a good chance of seeing hard-to-spot rainforest animals like peccaries, howler monkeys, toucans, parrots, and even snakes. One of the reserve’s trails also leads to a beautiful view of Uvita’s whale tail. Guided tours can be arranged through the Playa HermOSA Ecological Association, a rural tourism organization located in the Tico village of Playa Hermosa, just north of Uvita. In addition to hikes, the Association offers cultural experiences that will teach you about the local culture and even homestays with neighborhood families.

Hacienda Barú near Dominical is another great place for hiking. This wildlife refuge has seven kilometers of well-maintained trails filled with amazing wildlife and birds like pacas, white-faced monkeys, and king vultures. One of the trails also has a lookout with views of Dominical Beach. Hacienda Barú has night tours and overnight jungle stays for those of you wanting to explore the creepy crawlies that come out after dark, and also offers zip-line tours for the adrenaline hungry.

Local Events

The Costa Ballena hosts many events, including surf competitions and food festivals, and, for the first time this February, even a craft beer fest. Some of the biggest happenings are: 
Festival of Whales and Dolphins: A festival held in September during the height of the humpback whale migration, which features discounted whale-watching tours and a community fair with food and vendors.
Envision Festival: A music, art, and sacred movement gathering that brings thousands of like-minded individuals together in late February or early March.
Best Fest : A three-day music extravaganza in early February that draws talented musicians of all different genres, from rock to reggae.

*     *     * The Costa Ballena is one of our favorite destinations in Costa Rica because of its unhurried pace of life and outstanding natural wonders. When we first visited many years ago, it was love at first sight. Tourism has slowly developed here but has done so in a way that is not overwhelming. The foggy mountains and arcing sands still take the show. Those seeking amenities at every corner will probably want to look elsewhere, but those seeking a connection with nature and especially the ocean will find just what they need.   


To learn more about Costa Rica, check out our book, Two Weeks in Costa Rica. It's a travelogue with a guidebook twist. 

Read reviews and excerpts on Amazon.  

Fun Facts From Our First Six Months in Costa Rica

Today marks our six-month anniversary of living in Costa Rica. There is a lot we could say about our time here so far but we’re going to lighten things up a bit and focus in this blog on the fun or interesting things we’ve learned.   

We started researching our big move to Costa Rica a couple of years in advance. We read all of the books, guidebooks, moving books, retirement books, basically anything we could get our hands on about Costa Rica. We joined some online expat forums like ARCR and Expat Exchange and started following expat blogs to get a feel for what was in store. After all of this research, we had a very good idea of what to expect in terms of culture, climate, environment, cost of living, infrastructure, etc. But, of course, we’ve had many surprises along the way.

1.     Critters are everywhere

Sure you’ve seen a cockroach or spider in your hotel room but once you live here for a bit, you’ll really get to know the locals. Soon it becomes second nature to either kill or rescue whatever has crept into the house. We prefer the rescue method, except for cockroaches and some spiders. Most recently we had a tree frog in the toilet, a boa constrictor in the yard, a gigantic spider in the shower, and a dozen or so millipedes cruising around the living room—and that’s just in one week’s time. The message is: if you’re going to live in the rainforest, be ready for visitors.


2.     Cost of Living: It isn’t that much cheaper to live here

Groceries: Many of the things you’re probably used to buying are imported in Costa Rica. Cereal, specialty grains like arborio rice and couscous, cheese, etc. cost twice as much here because they are imported. Unless you have a very big budget, you’ll have to adapt to eating new things. Rice and beans, the Tico diet, is key, and fresh produce is a must. Produce is one thing that is actually cheaper—a lot cheaper—here. Don’t worry too much though. You can still make your favorite recipes; you just have to get creative when an ingredient isn’t available. 

Utilities: Utilities are about the same as in the States, with the exception of cell phone service. Our electricity bill is about the same as it was in Boston, Internet is slightly less (but also less reliable), and cell phone service is a lot less, both for minutes and a data plan. Housing can be less expensive, it just depends. Like anywhere else in the world, the cost depends on where and how you want to live. Apartments in the mountains go for as low as $200 a month and houses in beach towns go for as high as $2,000 a month.

3.      The carrots are delicious

Maybe it’s the perfect climate or maybe it’s the care with which they’re grown, but the carrots taste way better here than in the States. And so do the papayas and pineapples and even broccoli. Plus all produce, even the more exotic stuff, is significantly cheaper, notably so if you go to the local feria (farmer’s market). For those of you spending $30 a week on mediocre produce at Whole Foods, you’ll be in heaven in Costa Rica, especially when you buy three pineapples for two dollars. 

4.     It’s hard not to become a birder

We both liked birds before we moved to Costa Rica but we are slowly becoming obsessed. We now have a species list that is growing by the day and folders and folders of photos saved on the computer. We’ve even started a new tradition on our Facebook page called #FeatheredFriendFriday.


5.     The Internet: Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t

One of the most common questions we get is about Internet reliability. Unfortunately, there is no real answer since it can vary greatly depending on where you live. We’ve had outstanding cable Internet, very good wireless 3G, and slow-as-molasses 3G. If you’re living in a remote area, you’ll probably use a 3G data stick to connect, and depending on the placement of towers, it could be good or bad. New towers are going up fast though and 4G service is already in place for some areas.

Another problem is power outages. If you live in Costa Rica for a while, you’ll get used to them. Most of the time they are short, an hour or less, but sometimes they can be longer, sometimes days. On a recent trip to the grocery store, the power went out. All of the tourists were looking around like, “What now?” but the locals and expats just kept shopping. Five minutes later, it was back on like nothing happened. You just learn to deal with it.

6.     Cars really are expensive 

We had heard about the high cost of cars in Costa Rica but until you experience the sticker shock for yourself, you don’t quite fathom it. If you live in a rural area in Costa Rica, you’ll probably want a car but know that it is going to cost you two to three times more than it should because of high import taxes. As a reality check, think about this: In the States we had a 2007 Civic Hybrid which we sold before we left for significantly less than we paid for our now 14-year old 2000 Chevy Tracker in Costa Rica.

7.     Tico Time isn’t as slow as people say

This one might be about expectations but we had read a lot about “Tico time” and how getting one simple task done can take forever because the locals do everything a little bit slower. Sure we’ve had some experiences with Tico time, it took more than a week to get a small part for our car, but on the whole, things move at a decent pace. In general, the Costa Ricans work very hard and we’ve been surprised to find that some things happen faster here than in the States. The pharmacy, for example, can give vaccinations and perform basic medical treatments, and the gas station stocks basic car parts like headlights and often times will even change the part for you.

8.     Almost everything comes in a carton or bag and portions make sense

We’ve become accustomed to drinking wine, juice, and milk out of a tiny square carton. Cleaning products like dish soap, bathroom cleaner, and laundry detergent all come in simple plastic pouches. It all makes perfect sense; why do you need a new dish soap bottle anyway? Food packaging is also different. They only give you what you need, no extra. A box of spaghetti (which comes in a bag, of course) is actually half the size of what we had back in the States. After all, how many open pasta boxes do you have in your cabinet right now?


9.     Moisture can be a big problem

This is something that really wasn’t well covered in anything we had read. In the tropics obviously it rains a lot and unless you have excellent air flow, you’re going to get mold and mildew; it is inevitable. Anything made of leather, unless you use it a lot, is guaranteed to start growing the green (or white) stuff. A couple of our things that have fallen to the mold are Jenn’s Coach handbag, which is constantly getting vinegar treatments, and Matt’s leather belt, which permanently lives in a plastic baggy. We’ve found that the best thing to do is to make sure your home gets plenty of sunlight and to air things out as much as possible. For things you have packed away, your best bet is to contain them in airtight plastic bags with humidity absorbers.

10.     The People are amazing

One of the big reasons we decided to make the move was because we had fallen in love with the Tico culture. People here are generally happier and it’s contagious. Maybe it’s the sun and palm trees or maybe it’s the way they are raised, we’re not sure. Of course, like everywhere else there are some bad seeds, but overall everyone we have met has been warm and kind. We’ve been fortunate enough to make some pretty great friends too. We’ve been invited to dinners, soccer games, car races, and the beach by Ticos. We’ve been taught local traditions but also learned that we are not all that different. Friends and family spend time together in similar ways and talk about similar things, just in a different tongue.

*     *     * Overall we feel that we prepared ourselves well for life in Costa Rica. Our first six months has been a great success and we’re looking forward to our next milestone. We knew that we’d be giving up some common conveniences but replacing them with things that are just as, or more, important. We’re living healthier lives, with less processed foods, plenty of exercise, and less mental stress. We’re still working hard, but on things that we enjoy. Thanks to our family, friends, and all of our new online friends for your support. Cheers to another six months! Jennifer Turnbull and Matthew Houde first visited Costa Rica about ten years ago. They fell in love with the country’s friendly culture and natural beauty and returned for vacation year after year. In 2012, they published a book about their travels, Two Weeks in Costa Rica . Most recently, they took the ultimate plunge and left their successful jobs in the United States for a chance to experience the pura vida lifestyle. They now write full-time from Costa Rica. Follow their adventures on their blog or via Twitter and Facebook.