Matthew Houde's Blog, page 17
October 9, 2021
Tapir Valley Reserve Night Tour
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
If you are visiting Bijagua in Costa Rica’s Northern Zone, you are probably already looking for an authentic experience. Within the small town are quaint local restaurants and farm fields that extend to the edge of the thick jungle. Wildlife and local culture are abundant. Nearby, you’ll find one tourist hotspot, the Rio Celeste Waterfall, but other activities are more low-key and personalized. The Tapir Valley, a nearby private nature reserve, fits that description well. In this post, we share our experience on the Tapir Valley Reserve night tour.
The Tapir Valley is a 220 acre (81 hectare) private reserve located between the town of Bijagua and entrance to Tenorio Volcano National Park. Tenorio Volcano National Park is home to the bright blue Rio Celeste Waterfall.
The property was purchased by two locals, who saw the value of the land for conservation purposes. They decided to protect it and share it with others who share similar passions.
The Tapir Valley, as the name implies, sits in a large valley. The dormant Tenorio Volcano, more of a verdant green mountain, forms the backdrop. The surrounding slopes are thick jungle. The lowest points have small streams and a large, pond-like wetland.
Since the reserve is private, it does not have a lot of foot traffic. All tours and visits are arranged through the property’s website.
View of the big green pond from the trailAn Incredible EcosystemWith habitat varying from lofty primary rainforest to tangled underbrush and grassy swamp, the Tapir Valley is home to thousands of different plants and animals.
Birding is especially good here, but something unique is the presence of Costa Rica’s largest land mammal, the Baird’s Tapir.
These shy animals sort of look like a small hippo, with a short, curved trunk. Tapirs are somewhat rare in Costa Rica and live only in areas with expansive, undisturbed forest.
As we quickly found out on our night tour, the Tapir Valley also may be also a herpetologist’s dream property. We saw several different snakes and so many frog species that we eventually lost count.
The Tapir Valley Night Tour – Our ExperienceOur night tour started around 4:00 p.m. at the entrance gate to the Tapir Valley. Here, we met our guide, Jorge, a friendly local from the area.
Jorge helped us park and brought us over to the Tapir Valley’s Welcome Center. The small building had bathrooms and benches for us to get fitted with rubber boots. We also took some extra time to apply lots of insect repellent, as the mosquitoes were starting to get thick.
Note: This property has a lot of mosquitoes. Read the Tips for Visiting section, below, for some recommendations on clothing and repellent.
[image error]The colorful Welcome CenterHitting the TrailAfter an introduction to the property and what we would be doing that night, Jorge started down one of the grassy trails.
This part of the reserve was nicely landscaped, with flowering plants and native trees dotted in. It wasn’t long before we were learning about some of the native plants important to the area.
There was the Bijagua or rattlesnake plant (which is how the town of Bijagua got its name), cana agria (a wild, sour version of sugarcane), and balsa trees (known for their lightweight wood).
Perched under a beautiful heliconia flower, we also saw our first snake of the evening. It was an eyelash pitviper.
These venomous snakes can be all sorts of different colors, but this one was a patterned green and white. It was coiled up, waiting for a hummingbird or some other small animal to feed from the large flowers.
[image error]A beautiful eyelash pitviperThe Middle Forest PathWith Jorge in the lead, we wound through the gardens, past a long field and then over a small bridge into the deeper woods.
The Tapir Valley has several different trails. Jorge first took us along the middle forest path. He let us know that he was leaving the trail closer to the wetland for later, since it would have more activity after dark.
As we walked in the twilight, our trusted guide was constantly stopping to point out different things. There were golden orb spiders, marching leaf-cutter ants, stick bugs, and many types of frogs. We learned a lot about each one from Jorge.
A cool insect we sawThe Wetland View PlatformSoon we made it to the Wetland View Platform, near the middle of the property.
From the wooden deck, we took in the view of the gorgeous valley with the swelling wetland just below.
Here, we met up with Donald, one of the founders of the property and co-owner, with his wife Pip, of the nearby Casitas Tenorio B&B.
Donald and a university graduate student were all decked out, wearing their field gear, and getting ready to head into the swamp. They were doing some top-secret research on the local frog species, collecting data and taking lots of photos and videos.
Over some fresh fruit, cookies, coffee, and juice, we learned a little about their work while the sun fell. The hum of night in the rainforest intensified.
Hiking After DarkFueled with coffee and fitted with some high-tech headlamps, we were ready for the next part of the hike.
Now it was completely dark. After a recent nerve-racking experience on a night tour in La Fortuna, the kids stayed close to our guide on the trail. Our youngest was propped up in a backpack carrier.
Hiking after dark is always an adventure!This section of trail passed through different parts of the property’s lowest areas. The ground was wet and sticky, and the sound of frogs chirping and croaking was almost unreal.
Highlights from Our Night TourFrogsLike we mentioned earlier, the number of frog species living in the Tapir Valley is incredible. In just our short tour, we probably saw close to a dozen different types.
Some of the coolest ones were the famous red-eyed tree frog, which were abundant, the red-webbed tree frog, common Mexican tree frog, Central American bullfrog, and brilliant forest frog.
[image error]A photogenic red-webbed tree frogAt one place on the trail, we also got to meet up again with Donald and the grad student who were busy doing their fieldwork. It was fun to see in person how they were monitoring the frogs to learn more about them and their lifecycle.
Donald was passionate about his fieldworkSnakesAnother highlight were the snakes. In addition to the eyelash pitviper at the start of the trail, we also spotted a coral snake slithering under a log.
Later in the night, we encountered two different fer-de-lances. These snakes are considered one of the most dangerous in Costa Rica. They are abundant and responsible for most of the snakebites reported in hospitals here.
We were fortunate to observe all the snakes from a safe distance, with our guide making sure no one got too close.
Tracking TapirsIt was our hope to see a Baird’s Tapir at some point during the night. Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but we had seen signs of them early on. Right at the entrance to the property there were large piles of tapir dung from the night before.
On our way back to the Welcome Center, we also found fresh Tapir tracks in the mud. Donald and Jorge did their best to follow them as we quietly scanned the jungle with our headlamps. But as we got back to the entrance, the tracks led across the road and into the darkness. No Tapir sighting this time but tracking them was exciting on its own.
Other WildlifeBesides snakes and frogs, we also were lucky to see some other cool animals during the night tour.
There was a baby Tanager bird, perched in a short shrub. It must have fledged the nest too early and found the safest spot it could for the night.
Later, our headlamps caught the shining eyes of two little rabbits. They were hiding from us in the long grass.
A rabbit we spottedWe also saw a very shy paca hiding in the bushes. Pacas are a large type of rodent with brown fur and white spots. They have a similar pattern to a baby deer.
There were also giant grasshoppers, land crabs, moths, sleeping butterflies, and lots of spiders and interesting insects.
Reflections on an Adventurous NightThe Tapir Valley night tour was an adventurous experience and completely unique. We have done many night tours around Costa Rica and this one stands out as one of the wildest we have done.
The jungle and wetland areas of the Tapir Valley seemed so far removed from human contact. With the narrow beams of our headlamps catching only a sliver of the amazing ecosystem, we left feeling humbled and inspired by its raw nature.
Tips for Visiting the Tapir ValleyWhat to BringIt is important to be prepared for this night tour.
Entrance includes rubber boots and a headlamp, but be sure to wear long pants and a long-sleeve shirt or raincoat. There are many mosquitoes, and it often rains at night in the jungle. Clothing covering your skin will be very helpful and make you a lot more comfortable.
If you can, invest in some mosquito-repellent clothing (see our recommendations here), or at least bring some good repellent. Here is a link to our post on Mosquitoes in Costa Rica. It has recommendations for repellents towards the bottom.
Also be sure to bring a small backpack with extra water and snacks. A rain cover for your camera is also handy.
Get your camera’s extra batteries charged up, as taking pictures in the dark can really drain them (depending on your settings, of course).
Booking a TourThe Tapir Valley offers birdwatching tours, night tours, and family-nature tours. The family tours can be done in the morning or at twilight.
Twilight tours are nice because they start in the late afternoon and go into the early evening, so you get a mixed experience. We opted for this because of the kids and it worked out well. Others may want to start a bit later to experience even more during the darker hours.
You can contact the Tapir Valley directly through their website to arrange a tour.
Have a question about visiting the Tapir Valley or want to share what you saw on a night tour? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan a unique trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:9 Off-the-Beaten-Path Destinations in Costa Rica – Find places a bit off the tourist trail but still with plenty to explore and do with this short list.
The Enchanting Rio Celeste Waterfall – Just down the road from the Tapir Valley, this baby blue waterfall is one of the most impressive in Costa Rica.
Rental Car Discount – When visiting remote spots, a rental car gives you freedom to explore. Check out our Rental Car Discount page to save a bit and get free extras.
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October 2, 2021
Renovating a House in Costa Rica
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
After recently buying a house in Costa Rica, we quickly got started on some renovation projects to make it our own. Our initial list of improvements was modest, but once we got going, we realized we should get some bigger things done to make it more comfortable. Along the way, we learned a lot about working with contractors and finding the supplies we needed. Today we are sharing our experience to help those who are planning on renovating a house in Costa Rica.
The house we purchased is older, originally dating back to the early 1980s. It has been renovated since then but still had a lot of its original charm. For example, the house was completely open air. There were no glass windows, only openings with wooden bars. There was also no hot water except an old electric showerhead. One bathroom was wall-to-wall blue tile and included a stylish blue toilet. The sink to wash your hands was located outside in the hallway.
Even with the quirks, we got a good deal on the property. We love that it has a typical Costa Rican feel, with plenty of room for some modernization. The layout is really nice, with a big wrap-around porch. The construction is solid, and the ceilings are all finished with beautiful laurel wood.
Starting the RenovationsWe may want to do some bigger renovations a few years down the road. But to get us in the house, we decided to keep the structure intact and mostly do cosmetic and utility upgrades.
In Costa Rica, when you are doing non-structural changes like kitchen cabinets, re-tiling, plumbing, replacing windows, and wall repair and painting, you typically don’t need a building permit or other permission from the town. You may need some other type of permit if you are in a condo or association, but we are not.
Jackhammer, ready for some demoFinding a ContractorSince we were fairly new to the immediate area we bought in (north of Jaco), we were a bit nervous to find a contractor to help us.
We asked around in our network of friends. Luckily, we found a good honest contractor in the area.
If you are just moving to an area, it is important to work on your network of friends and acquaintances and ask around for referrals.
We did this for the kitchen cabinet fabricator, the window/glass subcontractor, and the air conditioning subcontractor. We used our general contractor’s contact for the solar hot water installation.
Truck delivering our new kitchen cabinetsManaging the ProjectOverviewWe had the general contractor but were very involved in the project ourselves. We sometimes used the general contractor’s recommendation for specialized work, but as we said above, we also used some of our own contacts for other things.
Often, contractors and subcontractors will only speak Spanish. If you don’t speak Spanish, it is probably best to find a contractor who speaks good English who can help you through the process.
Being InvolvedIf there is one tip about using a contractor or multiple contractors to help you in Costa Rica, it is to stay very involved in the project yourself. During our renovations, we stopped by the house frequently to answer questions and give the contractor guidance. He always seemed to have a list of questions about where to put this or how to change that. His communication was above normal, which was great.
However, the style of things, design decisions, and how they are implemented can be a lot different from what you are used to in your home country.
Deciding on cabinet hardwareFor the bathroom tile, we had chosen a beveled subway tile, which is somewhat difficult to install. Luckily, we were there for the beginning of the install, since the subcontractor hadn’t really thought about how best to place the tile pieces. We stopped him early on and explained how we wanted the pieces to end before it was too late.
This is why it’s a good idea to know what your team is doing on a particular day to know if you should be at the project to keep an eye on things.
WhatsAppIt is best to constantly be showing your team of workers what you like so that they get an idea of how you want the end product to look.
We found that taking pictures and screenshots of things and sending them to our contractor on WhatsApp worked really well. Costa Ricans love WhatsApp and it is one of the best ways to communicate with them.
For example, when we remodeled the bathroom, we sent our contractor a picture of a finished bathroom we liked with a similar setup and tile. It helped him visualize not only the style but level of quality we were expecting.
Our contractor also would send us pictures and questions on WhatsApp throughout the day or at the end of the day if we couldn’t make it to the house to meet. For example, he’d ask what height we wanted for specific light switches, shower valves, etc.
One day he really helped us as the solar hot water installers were about to place the large ugly unit right in the center of the roof. With his help, we had them push it back, so it wasn’t the focal point of our new house!
Solar hot water is a great option in Costa Rica, and very affordable to installGetting QuotesWe found during the process that it is rare for a contractor to provide a detailed quote.
For our windows, for example, the quote didn’t have any breakdown. It didn’t specify what style we wanted for each one, if we needed screens, etc. Our windows were complicated, with various shapes and designs, so this was important. We sent a list back to him to make sure that on installation day, we were getting what we expected.
The final product – from open air to functional glassIt was the same for our new kitchen cabinets. We didn’t get a detailed breakdown and only received the final price. But the cabinet maker did provide a detailed 3D image of the project. And he was very good at communicating in general, so we felt assured that he knew what we wanted.
PaymentsIn Costa Rica, there is a big problem with contractor delays and projects not getting done in the time promised. This is why most people only make a partial payment upfront and pay the balance when the work is complete.
In our case, we paid half upfront on each segment of the project, and the remaining half when we were satisfied with the work.
Most contractors want cash or a local bank deposit. Bank transfers are easiest if you have a bank account in Costa Rica. You also can wire money internationally, but there are fees and sometimes paperwork is involved before the bank in Costa Rica will clear the money.
Planning for our new bathroomFinding Building Materials and FixturesOne frustration that we had during the remodeling project was the availability of different building materials and fixtures. We have lived in Costa Rica for more than eight years now, so know firsthand that sourcing things can be a challenge. We are fairly used to it, but it doesn’t mean it still can’t be frustrating.
With the bathroom tile, all the hardware stores near us only had very basic choices. We did find more options in San Jose but overall were not that impressed. We made it work, though. We purchased the wall tile locally and the floor tile in San Jose.
A few good options for tile stores in San Jose are ExpoCeramica, Porceramica, and Construplaza.
Porceramic near San Jose – one of the largest tile stores in the countryKeep in mind that unlike tile supply stores in some other countries, there are no matching edge pieces like a bullnose finish piece. Instead, contractors just round off the grout or butt up against an aluminum or plastic edge trim.
Another tip is to inspect your orders carefully. We were given the wrong color tile (twice). If we had not opened the box before leaving the store, we would have had to make another long drive to San Jose.
For kitchen and bathroom fixtures, like faucets, toilets, and kitchen sinks, we were actually happy with the selection around Costa Rica. We ended up buying several items from KTH Infinite in Santa Ana, whose products are made right here in Costa Rica.
Toilet selection at KTH Infinite, a kitchen and bathroom specialty store near San JoseOur local hardware store in Jaco, El Lagar, also had a great selection of kitchen and bathroom faucets.
Faucet selection at El Lagar, a large hardware storeShipping Specialty ItemsFor our bathroom remodel, we were dealing with a very small space. Since there was no sink in the room before, we had to change the layout and find a way to fit one.
We were able to find some smaller sink basins in Costa Rica, but the selection was not great. We were looking for something small, but still functional. The choices here didn’t leave much room for washing your hands or were those awkward corner sinks.
In the end, we purchased a sink online in the US and had it shipped down.
If you do this for any of your fixtures, keep in mind that the cost is significant. We ended up paying about twice as much for the sink after shipping and taxes were added. For us, this one item was worth it to make the whole bathroom work.
Figuring out where to put our new bathroom sinkSimilarly, if you are making trips back and forth to your home country, it may be good to get some of the harder to find, smaller items there and bring them in your luggage. We have a long list for some family members coming down. Even with extra baggage costs, it is a lot less expensive than shipping.
Just keep in mind when bringing things in through checked bags that you’ll have to go through customs at the airport. We have never had any problems ourselves but have heard of people being given a hard time for bringing in a lot of items for house renovations. It’s always a good idea to take everything out of the package and spread it out between bags.
Where to Buy Appliances Buying LocallyEvery remodeled home needs a new appliance or two to freshen it up.
There are some larger department stores in the Central Valley like Siman that have a lot. More locally, you’ll find appliance stores like Gollo or Monge, which have locations all around Costa Rica, even in smaller towns.
These stores are good because they include a warranty on the appliances and are near your home in case you have a problem. We once had a dishwasher that malfunctioned and couldn’t be repaired by the technician. The Gollo store gave us a brand new one since it was still under warranty.
Gollo, an appliance store found all around the countryGolfito Duty FreeMany people swear by Golfito for large purchases like appliances.
Golfito is a small town in the very southern part of the country, close to the Panama border. Here, there is a big closed in area with duty-free stores that sell large and small appliances, liquor and wine, etc. It has some of the same stores you’ll find everywhere like Gollo and Monge, but it is duty-free so prices are lower.
Keep in mind that Golfito is quite far from much of the country, so it may or may not be worth it given the cost of gas and delivery charges.
Tips on Buying AppliancesWhen buying appliances, make sure to do a lot of online research to compare prices. The stores often have sales, and you can save a lot by shopping at one versus the other. Our stove, for example, was $100 cheaper at one store because of a promotion.
When researching, try to find models that have reviews online. We found several good deals on brand name appliances (GE, Frigidaire, Samsung), but they either had no online reviews or bad reviews in other countries.
Many of the appliances are made in Central or South America so it can be difficult to find information. However, sometimes the same models are sold in big North American chains like Home Depot, Lowe’s, or Walmart, and they have hundreds or thousands of reviews. This can give you peace of mind when spending a lot on new things.
Final Words of AdviceIn the end, we spent about a month and a half on the biggest parts of the project and are picking off smaller things now that we are moved in. Overall, we are really happy with the team of contractors and merchants we used for supplies.
If you are planning to renovate a house in Costa Rica, make sure to find people that you trust before inviting them into your home to work. Keep up with the workflow and try to stay one step ahead by researching the small details that can come up as questions later on.
Finally, enjoy your little slice of paradise. We are all lucky to live in such a beautiful place.
Have a question about renovating a house in Costa Rica or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more info to help you plan a big move to Costa Rica? Check out these articles:Buying a House in Costa Rica – Learn from our experience about finding real estate, making an offer, and sending money overseas.
Building a House in Costa Rica – In this article, we sat down with a local contractor to learn what steps are involved in the building process.
Starting a Business in Costa Rica as an Expat – Find out what it’s like to have a business in Costa Rica and what to be aware of before you jump right in.
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September 16, 2021
Covid Vaccination Rates in Costa Rica
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
We have been hearing from a lot of people who are planning trips this winter and holiday season. They are wondering what’s going on with Covid in Costa Rica and what to expect for the future. In this post, we’ll let you know how Covid vaccinations are going in Costa Rica. We’ll give current vaccination numbers and resources to stay up to date.
As of mid-September, Costa Rica is experiencing a surge in Covid-19 cases and hospitalizations. We have a whole post dedicated to Costa Rica’s Covid current numbers, Costa Rica and the Coronavirus.
We update the article every day, Monday through Friday, when the government comes out with new data. You can refer to that article for more information.
Covid Vaccine Rollout in Costa RicaThe government started administering vaccines at the end of 2020 but didn’t start its public vaccination campaign until early 2021. The country was off to a somewhat slow start due to a lack of supply. Costa Rica didn’t start getting significant amounts of vaccine until mid-year.
Costa Rica has contracts with Pfizer-BioNTech and Astra Zeneca. It is also part of the COVAX alliance.
Costa Rica also has received donated vaccines from other countries such as the United States, Canada, and Spain.
The majority of the vaccine supply is Pfizer-BioNTech.
Priority GroupsThe government created a priority system for Covid vaccinations due to the limited supply.
Group 1 is health care workers, first responders, and staff at nursing homes.
Group 2 is older adults (ages 58 and up).
Group 3 is people ages 16-57 with a preexisting condition/risk factor. These include hypertension, diabetes, heart disease, COPD, asthma, obesity, etc. [Note: Costa Rica later opened this up to starting at age 12 for children with preexisting conditions once the Pfizer vaccine was approved for kids.]
Group 4 is teachers and certain public employees.
Group 5 is the general population with no risk factors (everyone else).
The original chart from the Ministry of Health on vaccination groupsWithin those groups, appointments were initially given based on age. So, for example, in Group 3, they started with ages 50-57 and didn’t do lower ages until they had a certain percentage of the older group vaccinated.
Delaying Second ShotCosta Rica vaccinated Groups 1 and 2 following the standard recommended timeframe between doses (21 days).
However, starting with Group 3 (risk factors group), they spaced out doses by 12 weeks. The idea was to get more people one shot, similar to what some European countries have done.
Since only a small amount of the population falls within Groups 1 and 2, this has somewhat delayed full vaccination rates.
Current Vaccination Rates in Costa RicaAs of mid-September, 60.9% of the population has had at least one dose. 33.5% is fully vaccinated. This is according to the Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social (CCSS) website. The CCSS is Costa Rica’s public healthcare system. It is in charge of administering the vaccine along with the Ministry of Health.
Among older adults (Group 2), 91% are fully vaccinated.
For ages 40-57, 80% has had one shot and 48% are fully vaccinated.
For ages 20-39, 68% has had one shot and 23% are fully vaccinated.
For ages 12-19, 52% has had one shot and 9% are fully vaccinated.
A Covid vaccination site in the San Jose area. Photo Credit: CCSSSpeeding up the RolloutIn July 2021, Costa Rica started receiving large vaccine shipments. At that point, it opened vaccination up to everyone age 40 and older.
It started with a mass vaccination effort. The goal was to apply 500,000 doses that the United States donated between July 16-25, 2021. Doses were still spaced out by 12 weeks, but anyone within that age group could get their first shot.
In the following weeks, they dropped it to 30 years old. Now, it is open to anyone ages 18 and up. An appointment is no longer needed. You can just show up at your local public clinic.
Importantly, in late August, they changed the time between doses to eight weeks for ages 30-57. This is because of the surge in the Delta variant and increase in hospitalizations.
What this means is that many of those people in Group 5 (general population group) who got their first dose in late July or August, just got their second shot or will be getting it soon. This will make the rate for full vaccination go up quite a bit in the coming months.
The EBAIS (public clinic) in Parrita shortly after vaccinations were opened to Group 3.Staying Up to DateWe will update this post regularly with current vaccination numbers. But if you’d like to follow this day to day, the CCSS has updated information on their website.
Vaccine HesitanceAlthough there is some vaccine hesitance in Costa Rica, overall, it is minimal. Costa Rica has one of the highest vaccination rates in the world in general. We expect it to have a high Covid vaccination rate as well.
The government is really pushing people to get vaccinated on the news and social media. They have been having mass vaccination campaigns in public spaces like malls and vaccinating by car in some areas, in an effort to get more people to come out.
Vaccinating at a university in San Jose. Photo Credit: CCSSCovid Vaccination Requirements in Costa RicaTouristsCurrently, anyone can travel to Costa Rica. If you are not fully vaccinated, you just need to purchase specific travel insurance that covers Covid.
For more information, check out our post, Traveling to Costa Rica During Covid-19: Entry Requirements, Protocols, and What to Expect.
Citizens and ResidentsCovid vaccines are not specifically required for Costa Rican citizens or legal residents.
StudentsThe government has not addressed if Covid vaccinations will be required to enroll in school in Costa Rica. Students are required to be current on all standard vaccines, though. This is taken very seriously. Here is a link to a detailed article with Costa Rica’s legal requirements on vaccinations.
The Costa Rican government has contracted with Pfizer to provide pediatric vaccines in 2022 for children ages 2-11.
Can Tourists Get the Vaccine in Costa Rica?Officially, only legal residents can get a Covid vaccine in Costa Rica. We’ve also heard that people who have a residency application in process have been able to get it.
For residents, you need to show your DIMEX. Some CCSS clinics (called EBAIS) also are requiring people to show that they are signed up in the CCSS system. Here is a link with more information.
We have heard, however, of people living in Costa Rica on a tourist visa getting the vaccine. It seems to vary by clinic. If you’re trying to get the vaccine here, you could go to the EBAIS in your area later in the afternoon to see if they have an extra dose. We have heard that this has worked for some people.
An open vaccination day at an EBAIS on the central Pacific coastConclusionCosta Rica has been working hard to get its population vaccinated against Covid and has made great strides so far. We are hopeful that by later this year, enough of the population will be fully vaccinated so that things can get more back to normal.
Have a question about Covid vaccination rates in Costa Rica? Ask us below.Looking for more information about traveling to Costa Rica during Covid? Check out these posts.Costa Rica and the Coronavirus: Get detailed, current info on Costa Rica’s current Covid numbers and restrictions.
Traveling to Costa Rica During Covid-19: Learn about the health pass you’ll need to fill out and details about travel insurance requirements.
Where to Get a Covid-19 Test in Costa Rica: If you need a Covid test to get back home, this post gives the testing sites throughout the country.
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September 11, 2021
Mistico Hanging Bridges: A Treetop Rainforest Experience
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
One activity that many people want to do on their trip to Costa Rica is walk along hanging bridges. Trekking through the forest canopy and viewing it at eye level is an amazing experience. Hanging bridges can be found in many parts of Costa Rica, but the most elaborate are in the towns of La Fortuna and Monteverde. In this post, we will cover one popular option in La Fortuna called Mistico Hanging Bridges Park.
Mistico Park, formerly known as Arenal Hanging Bridges, is located about 25-30 minutes from the center of La Fortuna.
Once you drive the curvy road (Route 142) west from town and reach Lake Arenal, it is off to the right. You’ll turn down a hill after the dam and then drive up a steep (paved) private road to get to the entrance. Here, you’ll get a good view of Arenal Volcano on a clear day.
Since these bridges are a bit far from town, it is helpful to have a rental car. Taxis can be expensive for such a long ride.
Guided tours are also available from local operators and usually include round-trip transportation from your hotel or vacation rental.
Mistico Hanging Bridges Park The PropertyMistico Hanging Bridges Park is immense. The property consists of 617 acres (250 hectares) of land, much of which is thick rainforest.
Because of its location, there is a high diversity of wildlife. Mistico sits where the flat plains of the Caribbean Lowlands meet the Tilaran mountain range. This means that you can find birds and animals common at both lower and higher elevations. Read more in the Wildlife section, below.
As the name implies, Mistico Park is a bit commercial feeling but not too much like a theme park.
At the entrance are a couple of large buildings and a big parking lot. You’ll need to get in line to purchase tickets, or at least check in for previously purchased tickets. There is a fairly large restaurant, bathroom facility, and small gift shop as well.
The parking area and entranceOne you get on the concrete paths and start walking, things feel a lot less manmade and more in touch with nature.
TrailsThe main trail at Mistico, which most people use, makes a loop and is about two miles (3.2 km) long. It crosses 16 bridges (more on these below) and now has smooth concrete paths. Between bridges, the trail cuts through sections of mature rainforest.
The concrete paths make a loop through the jungleAlong the trail, Mistico Hanging Bridges Park has placed many informational signs. These help you understand a bit about the plants, wildlife, and forest lifecycles. They are especially helpful if you don’t have a guide.
For example, near the beginning of the trail, there is a large structure made of old logs called the Pollinator Hotel. Signs explain how bees and other insects are essential for a healthy rainforest and how the structure helps them find appropriate, dry shelter. Later you’ll find signs about different trees and animals that are common in the area.
The “Pollinator Hotel,” a bee habitat exhibitThere’s also a pretty garden towards the beginning of the trail. This area has some flowers, ornamental plants, water features, and a few tables.
Overall, the trails are very easy. Later in the walk, they do get a little steep but there are places to rest along the way, if needed.
Hanging BridgesOverviewThe highlight of Mistico is, of course, the hanging bridges. In total, there are six elaborate hanging bridges and ten smaller fixed bridges. Each hanging bridge differs in length and height.
The hanging bridges are all closed in on the sides up to about four feet (1.2 meters). This makes you feel safe, like you won’t fall off, but still lets you have a great view of the forest.
The bridges do sway or rock a little when you are walking on them, mostly in the middle part of the bridge, but not a lot. They seem very secure.
The BridgesThe first hanging bridge you come to is Arenal View Bridge. It is 246 feet (75 meters) across. This one is the highest of them all, standing at 147 feet (55 meters) off the ground. In the middle of this bridge, you get a good view of Arenal Volcano.
The view of Arenal Volcano from the first bridgeNext, you’ll come to Pilon Bridge, which is 174 feet (53 meters) long and 69 feet (21 meters) high.
Shortly after that one, you will walk across Waterfall Bridge at 300 feet (92 meters) long and 148 feet (45 meters) high. We didn’t really see a waterfall from this one; it was more of a stream far below.
After a steep part of the path down, you’ll next cross Anthill Bridge. This is 285 feet (87 meters) wide and 92 feet (28 meters) tall. From here, you can see the rushing water from a small river below.
You’ll then go through a tunnel (Jumping Viper Tunnel) and across Fer-de-lance Bridge. This hanging bridge is 157 feet (48 meters) long and 79 feet (24 meters) high.
Finally, it is Mistico’s longest hanging bridge. Tayra Bridge is named after a sleek weasel-like animal. It has an impressive length of 368 feet (97 meters) and is 79 feet (24 meters) off the ground. Once you cross this one, you’ll be back at the reception area on solid ground.
This is the longest hanging bridge at the parkWhat You’ll See at Mistico Hanging BridgesWildlifeSometimes it can be a challenge to see wildlife at Mistico Hanging Bridges. This is because it is a very popular attraction, and the trails start to get busy around mid-morning. Noisy groups often spook the animals.
Even so, if you look carefully and don’t go too fast, you can still find lots of wildlife. On our visits, we have seen snakes, coati (a racoon-type animal), many tropical birds, and a lot of interesting insects.
A beautiful Rufous Motmot we saw on the trailOn our most recent visit, we even spotted a mother and baby peccary. These animals are sort of like wild boars. They were cutting across the trail after a noisier group went past. We were walking quietly and slowly, and they hardly noticed us.
A mother and baby collared peccary near the garden areaForest and Volcano ViewsEven if you aren’t so lucky with the wildlife, you are sure to see some stunning mature trees, interesting plants, flowers, fruits, and seeds during your walk.
Dense, green rainforest all aroundThere are also some nice views of Arenal Volcano from the property. One, mentioned above, is as you cross the first large hanging bridge, and the other is at the main reception and parking area.
View of the volcano from behind the reception areaAccessibility One of the great things about Mistico Hanging Bridges Park is that it is handicap accessible, so everyone can enjoy it. They have a trail that is one mile (1.5 km) long made from non-slip concrete that only has a gentle slope.
Along the way, there are no stairs. You can cross six fixed bridges and two optional hanging bridges on this route.
Planning Your Visit to Mistico Hanging BridgesAvoiding the CrowdsAs we mentioned above, the facility can get busy with large groups. Tour vans and buses start to arrive in greater numbers around 9:00 a.m.
If you are looking for a quieter experience, we would recommend going early in the morning (they open at 6:00 a.m.) or later in the afternoon. These are also the times when more birds and mammals are active in the forest.
CostAdults: $26
Children (ages 11-18): $16
Children (10 and under): Free
Seniors (ages 65+): $21
You can purchase entrance tickets online on Mistico’s website.
They also have guided tours and other tour options as well. During slower times of year, you can just show up and buy tickets at the entrance.
HoursOpen every day from 6:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Last entrance: 3:50 p.m.
What to BringClosed toe shoes (mandatory – they do not allow sandals)
Comfortable, lightweight clothing
Insect repellent
*Note: For parents with young kids, they have jogging strollers that you can rent.
Hanging bridges are a highlight of any trip to Costa Rica. From the fantastic canopy views to the wildlife along the trail, this activity is one to remember. Mistico Hanging Bridges Park is one of the more elaborate facilities in the country and worth a visit if you are in the Arenal area.
Have a question about visiting Mistico Park or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below. Looking for more information to plan your trip to La Fortuna? Check out these posts:A Safari River Float in La Fortuna/Arenal – Looking for an easy way to see wildlife? This leisurely raft ride along the nearby Penas Blancas River won’t disappoint.
La Fortuna Hotel Guide – Read some of our picks for hotels near Arenal Volcano.
Car Rental Discount – Need a car for a few days in La Fortuna? Use this discount to save money and get the car delivered to your hotel for free. [Note: Adobe Rent a Car’s La Fortuna office is temporarily closed. Select Ciudad Quesada for the pickup location, which is the closest office to La Fortuna.]
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September 3, 2021
Buying a House in Costa Rica
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
The process of buying a house can be overwhelming, let alone trying to figure it out in a foreign country. We’ve lived in Costa Rica for eight years and have waited all this time to purchase property. We did house sitting when we first arrived. More recently, we’ve been renting. Finally, we’ve put down roots and bought our first house. In this post, we will give you an overview of the process of buying a house in Costa Rica. We’ll also share tips from our personal experience.
We are not lawyers in Costa Rica (though Jenn was one in the US) and are not intending to give legal advice. This post is meant to provide background on the process. Real estate transactions in Costa Rica do not always go smoothly, so always hire a local lawyer to guide you and advocate on your behalf.
Finding a PropertyOnline OptionsCosta Rica does not have a multiple listing system (MLS), Zillow, or any similar real estate websites. This makes it more difficult to see what’s available online.
Real estate companies do have websites with listings, but these don’t include everything that is available. Lower priced homes, especially, tend not to be listed online. Some agents don’t have websites at all, while others have outdated information.
So how do you go about finding a house to buy in Costa Rica?
Real Estate AgentsReal estate in Costa Rica is mostly done on a local level. By that we mean that most real estate agents cover a specific geographic area, rather than the whole country.
That means that it’s easiest to first figure out the general area where you want to live. Once you know that, you can ask around to find a reputable local real estate agent.
If you’re not sure where to live, we have a couple of articles that may help. Check out:
Planning a Long-term Visit to Costa Rica – Includes tips on what the different regions of the country are like.
Where We’ve Lived in Costa Rica – Gives the pros and cons of eight different towns we explored in our first two years here.
One important tip on real estate agents: As a profession, real estate agents are not as regulated as in other places, like North America and Europe. They can be licensed, but it is not legally required. So you will find some real estate agents that have little to no experience or training. This makes it extremely important to talk to some locals in the area you want to live to see who they have used and if they had a good experience.
Making an OfferNow that you’ve found a place you love, it’s time to start the legal process.
Just like in real estate transactions elsewhere in the world, the first step when buying a house in Costa Rica is to make a formal offer (also called a letter of intent). This is just a basic letter that gives your intent to purchase the property from the seller.
Deciding an Amount to OfferOne of the most important parts of the offer is that it gives the amount you want to pay.
When picking a number, your real estate agent should be able to give you some comparable properties in the area.
Be sure to factor in closing costs. These are around 4% of the purchase price, so can really add up.
Real estate transactions in Costa Rica are most often cash deals, especially if foreigners are buying. Banks in Costa Rica will not lend to non-residents. And for legal residents, interest rates are often too high to make it worthwhile. Because of this, most people do a cash deal. Sometimes sellers will offer owner financing, so that is an option if you need it.
Tip: Most people will tell you that it is a buyer’s market in Costa Rica, and you can usually offer much lower than the asking price. In our experience, that is true for the most part. However, with Covid, we have seen a dramatic increase in people coming to Costa Rica to live or have a second home. This has caused some local markets to have much less available, driving up prices. In the area where we were looking, near Jaco on the central Pacific coast, there were few options at a reasonable price.
Another important component of the offer is the earnest money deposit. The offer will say that you will make a deposit (usually 10% of the purchase price) as earnest money to show you are serious about the deal. This amount is usually deposited within 10 or so days of the accepted offer.
CounterofferThe seller can counteroffer, giving a price above what you offered. Then you can go back and forth until you have a final agreed-upon price.
Hiring a LawyerMost people advise getting a lawyer involved before making an offer. Even though the offer is just a small part of the overall transaction, it is still important and best left to a legal professional.
Our real estate agent had an offer template that had too much information in it, in our opinion. We wanted it simpler and more open ended so that we wouldn’t be limited later in the process.
Purchase and Sale AgreementOverviewOnce you have a signed offer, your lawyer can start drafting the purchase and sale agreement (P&S).
The P&S is the formal, legally binding contract between you and the seller, so it’s important that it includes all necessary details.
In our P&S, we wanted some of the furniture that was in the house during the showing, so we made sure to write that in.
Payment MethodThe P&S will have details on how the transaction will be funded.
If you have bank accounts in Costa Rica and plan to use that money for payment, then you will be able to make a simple in-country transfer at the time of closing.
However, many foreigners keep their money elsewhere. Because of money laundering laws in Costa Rica, it is not advisable to try to wire in large sums of money from a foreign bank account.
We have heard horror stories of people’s money being held up for months by banks in Costa Rica. They require detailed documentation about where the money came from and do not release it until they are satisfied that the money was lawfully obtained.
If you plan on using a foreign bank account, your lawyer and real estate agent will probably suggest using an escrow company.
These companies facilitate the transaction by receiving money from the buyer, holding it in a separate bank account, and then transferring it to the seller at the time of closing. If the deal falls through for some reason, the money will be given back to you according to the terms of the P&S. See below for more on escrow companies.
Closing DateThe P&S will set a closing date. Since most deals are cash deals and you don’t have to worry about delays from a lender, many are done in as little as 30 days. We did ours in just over a month.
Due DiligenceThe final important piece of the P&S is that it provides a due diligence period. This allows the buyer to do a home inspection to make sure there are no hidden defects, surveys, and things like that.
It also allows the buyer’s lawyer the check the property for liens, encumbrances, and any other legal issues that could cause a problem in the future. Usually, the seller is asked to provide documentation, such as recent utility bills, proof of payment of property taxes, etc.
Real Estate Agent FeesThe P&S also will say who is paying the commission for the real estate agents.
In Costa Rica, the commission can be 3-10% of the purchase price. Typically, it’s around 5-7% (plus 13% tax on the commission amount). This is split between the buyer’s and seller’s agent.
By default, the seller pays the agents’ commission, though the buyer can agree to take on some of the expense.
Closing CostsThe P&S should detail the closing costs. These include notary and attorney fees to transfer the title, registration fees, taxes, and government fees. They are calculated based on the purchase price and are around 4%.
Traditionally, the buyer and seller split closing costs. Now it seems that more often, buyers are paying the closing costs, and the seller pays the real estate agents’ commission. But this varies based on what you are paying for the property compared to the listing price.
The notary and attorney fees are separate from your own legal fees. The cost for your lawyer to prepare the offer, draft/review the P&S, etc. are billed separately.
Escrow AgreementYou will need a separate escrow agreement if you’re using an escrow company to get your money into Costa Rica. It will be between you, the escrow company, and the seller as well.
This agreement is fairly detailed and gives the escrow company the legal permission to be appointed as your escrow agent. It describes when the money will be released to the seller and includes specific bank details.
It also gives each party’s obligations. The buyer has to provide documentation so that the escrow company can be sure that the money has been lawfully obtained. These are the documents typically required:
2 forms of government ID – A passport is fine. You do not need to be a Costa Rica resident to purchase property.Utility bill showing current addressProof of income supporting transaction amount (tax returns or W-2s along with six months of bank statements)Bank reference letter – See belowKnow Your Customer Form – This form is standard in Costa Rica. It asks for basic personal information, like your address, occupation, annual income, and where your funds came from (work, investments, inheritance, etc.).
The standard Know Your Customer form from the escrow companyOur Experience with Gathering the Escrow DocumentsGetting all the documentation was easy for us, except the bank letter.
The escrow company wanted the letter to state the age of the account, average balance, and be signed by a bank representative. Our bank, Capital One, only issued automatically generated letters that were not personally signed.
To get a signed version, we would have needed to go to a bank branch in the United States. Since we live in Costa Rica, this would not have been easy. Luckily, the escrow company ended up accepting an unsigned version.
Escrow CompaniesThere are a few escrow companies in Costa Rica. The largest, which we used ourselves, is Secure Title Latin America. They have an office in San Jose.
We started out using a smaller company, but they were getting essential details wrong in the escrow agreement (even the purchase price!) so we quickly changed to STLA.
Escrow companies typically charge $600-700 to do a transaction, plus 13% tax.
ClosingThis was the really stressful part for us.
We were waiting on some documents from the seller in order for our lawyer to finish the due diligence. Without the due diligence report and knowing that everything checked out legally with the property, we couldn’t close on time. So we ended up pushing back the closing date by a few days.
The closing itself was very simple. We went to the escrow company’s office in San Jose. There, a notary had the title transfer document ready for us and the seller to sign. It was only a couple of pages long—much different than when we had purchased property in the United States and needed to sign a tall stack of papers.
After we signed, the escrow company released the money to the seller, and we got the keys. We are now happy homeowners and can’t wait to move in! We are still doing some renovations, which we’ll tell you more about soon.
After closing, the notary presents the transfer document to the Registro Nacional (National Registry), and the purchase is formally recorded. You can check the Registry’s website to make sure everything was property recorded. It shouldn’t take more than a couple of weeks.
Note: To use the National Registry’s website, you’ll need to create an account. Once you’ve done that, go to “Consultas Gratuitas,” then “Consultas por Numero de Finca.” Enter the province and your finca/plot number, and the property’s current registry information will come up.
Screenshot of Registro Nacional website – You can look up your property using this site to make sure the deed was properly recorded.Problems We Encountered and Tips for Buying a House in Costa RicaLawyersOverall, the process for us was fairly good. However, like many things in Costa Rica, it can be slow. We were waiting for the due diligence report from our lawyers until the very last minute, with the closing date approaching, which was quite stressful. We had one major legal issue outstanding that could have stopped the sale completely. It would have been nice to have that resolved much sooner in the process.
In our experience, lawyers in Costa Rica are not as experienced and knowledgeable. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t awesome lawyers out there, there definitely are, but they can be harder to find.
You’ll want a lawyer who speaks English most likely, which narrows it even more.
The law in Costa Rica seems less definite in many ways as well. For example, in the United States when a title search is done, you can go online to review a property’s chain of title. For any outstanding title or other issues, lawyers can search caselaw dating back hundreds of years to find an answer. In Costa Rica, some things like taxes and other liens can be reviewed online, but much less is available in general.
When buying a house in Costa Rica, having a lawyer who is not only knowledgeable and experienced in real estate, but also responsive, is another essential. We have heard of many lawyers who do not answer their phones or emails, and when they do, it still takes them way too long when something is pressing.
There are lawyers in San Jose, or you could ask around locally to see who other people have used. Your real estate agent may also have a recommendation.
Bank TransfersAnother difficulty we had was with sending the money. Our bank (Capital One) made it extremely difficult to send the money to the escrow company using our regular online banking. The escrow company had a bank account in the United States, where our bank was located, but we still needed to have a security code sent by text message.
Although we have Magic Jack for international calling, it does not allow for automatic text messages. We tried to have a family member receive the text, but that didn’t work either. Eventually, we had to call the bank’s wire department and make the transfers by phone.
This required uploading documents to verify our identity to their secure portal and being on the phone with them for hours at a time! Not everyone who we spoke to understood the process of doing a wire transfer by phone. But once we got ahold of the right people, the process was fine.
We did have to wait a bit. They did not do the transfers instantly. Rather, after we requested it, they called a few hours later to confirm the transaction.
The process probably differs a lot by specific bank. Just keep in mind that when you go to make a transfer, it may not happen right away. So avoid sending money close to those P&S deadlines, if possible.
ConclusionEven with the stress of buying a house, we are still thrilled to be homeowners! It will be wonderful to have a place of our own for our family. We hope this post helped answer some of your questions about buying a house in Costa Rica.
FAQs About Moving to Costa Rica – Learn the basics of moving. Covers residency options, buying a car, renting vs. buying, and ways to make money.
Where to Live in Costa Rica: Planning Your Research Trip – Living somewhere full time is a lot different than vacationing. Check out these tips on what to look for in the areas you are interested in.
Building a House in Costa Rica – Weighing the pros and cons of buying vs. building? Check out our post to see what’s involved in building a house.
Starting a Business as an Expat – We had a company in Costa Rica for several years. Read our post for our experience and important things to look out for.
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August 28, 2021
Mirador El Silencio: Wild Jungle and Arenal Volcano Views
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
When hiking Arenal Volcano, you have a lot of different trail options. All go around the base of the impressive volcano, giving you different vantage points. In our opinion, one of the best views of Arenal Volcano is from Mirador El Silencio. This series of easy-to-moderate trails leads to a very high lookout. Here, you feel as though you are standing eye to eye with Arenal’s cone-shaped peak. In this post, we’ll give you all the details to plan your visit to Mirador El Silencio in La Fortuna.
Mirador El Silencio is located outside the town of La Fortuna. This popular tourist destination is famous for the Arenal Volcano. It is about 2.5 hours from Costa Rica’s capital of San Jose.
The entrance to Mirador El Silencio is just 7.5 miles (12 km) from the central park in La Fortuna and only 3 miles (5 km) from Arenal Volcano National Park. It borders the popular 1968 Trail property, which has similar views.
The ReserveMirador El Silencio has 550 acres (225 hectares) of protected land. Around 250 acres (100 hectares) of that is considered primary forest. This means the trees are very mature and have never been cut down, making for an awesome jungle experience.
Other parts of the property have secondary forest, which is younger, as well as grassy fields and gardens. The diversity of habitats attracts a lot of wildlife, especially birds and insects.
A beautiful glass wing butterflyMirador El Silencio Hiking TrailsThe property has six hiking trails that total about 8.5 miles (14 km). Some of these are easier, while others are more rugged and difficult.
Mirador El Silencio is a good option for those looking for a harder, more authentic hike in the Arenal area.
When arriving at the reception area, the employees can help you decide which trails are best for your group.
We were looking for a somewhat challenging hike, so they told us to use Trail 2 (Sendero los Sainos/Peccary Trail). This one was a narrow, muddy trail that meandered up the steep mountain through a lot of primary forest. The trail is named after sainos/collared peccary. These are wild-boar-like animals that can sometimes be spotted here. They have a strong, pungent smell so keep a lookout for that.
Los Sainos Trail – a more challenging hikeFor an easier hike up to the viewpoint, we’d recommend the trails to the right after reception. Trail 1 (Sendero la Araña/Spider Trail) and Trail 4 (Sendero Manantial/Source/Spring Trail) were the ones we came back down on. They were not as steep, and the surrounding forest was still very pretty.
We didn’t get a chance to check out Trail 3 (Sendero El Tabacon/Tabacon Trail), but think it was also an easier option compared to Trail 2. Along this trail, you can see many tabacon plants, common in and around La Fortuna. They are large plants with long, broad, hard leaves.
Trails 5, 6, and 7 are at the top of the hill. We’ll cover them below.
Fantastic Volcano ViewsOverviewOnce you reach the top of the mountain, you’ll start to get some spectacular views of Arenal Volcano. You’ll also realize that there is a parking area up there where people just drive up after paying admission.
The parking area closer to the base of the volcanoThis sort of reminded us of the time we hiked Mount Washington in New Hampshire. After lots of effort getting to the top, you see people stepping out of their cars for a quick (sweatless) selfie. But they missed out on some cool wildlife along the trail, right? (See wildlife section, below.)
Tip: It’s not on the map, but to the left of the upper parking area (looking at the volcano) is a grassy road that leads to an even nicer viewpoint. You can see the volcano very clearly (clouds permitting) and in the opposite direction the flat northern plains that eventually lead to Nicaragua.
Lava Fields TrailTrail 6 (Sendero Lava del 1968/Lava Fields Trail of 1968) is the highlight of Mirador El Silencio Reserve.
This one starts at the right corner of the higher up parking area.
The trail cuts through a farm field and then leads up a steep section with some rustic steps. Here, you get to walk along small rocks that were once tossed out of the volcano’s mouth.
Near the lookout on the Lava Fields TrailAt the end of the trail, you come to a clearing with little vegetation and much larger volcanic rocks.
This is the absolute highest viewpoint on the property and the one that makes you feel like you are staring the volcano right in the face.
From here, you can really see the old lava flows from the biggest eruption that occurred in 1968. After all these years, they still appear as gray streaks down the side of the steep volcano.
The closest view of Arenal Volcano is from this point on the Lava Fields TrailOther Interesting FeaturesFrom the parking area, you can also check out Trail 7 (Sendero Lago Verde/Green Lake Trail) to the left. This one leads down a hill to a lake. The lake gets the green color from volcanic minerals.
The green lagoonTrail 5 is sort of a mystery to us since we never saw a sign for it. The map says that it leads to a viewpoint where you can see Lake Arenal. Anyway, we still got a distant view of the lake from Trail 6.
Wildlife and SurroundsOn our hike, we saw some interesting wildlife and beautiful forest. First, it was our oldest son who spotted a creepy hole with a tarantula inside.
A tarantula hiding in the groundLater in the hike, we saw a lot of birds called Crested Guans. These are brown and about the size of a turkey but skinnier. They like to stay up in the trees and make a loud call, which echoes through the forest.
The jungle itself was also really impressive, especially on Trail 2. There were giant canopy trees, lush broadleaf plants, ferns, and all kinds of cool flowering and fruiting plants and trees.
A huge tree, climbing towards the sunSince you are right in the rainforest, you’ll also likely see many interesting insects, and if you’re lucky, some mammals like monkeys. We didn’t get to see any monkeys, but we did hear howler monkeys in the distance.
Planning Your VisitHoursMirador El Silencio is open every day from 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
CostAdmission is 5,000 colones per person (about $8). Children under 7 are free.
After hiking, if you want to reenter and drive to the top parking area to see the sunset or have a picnic, just save your bracelet.
What to Wear/BringThere are some sunny areas along the trail so bring a hat and sunscreen. In the thicker, forested parts of the trail, we encountered a lot of mosquitoes, so have repellent handy. There are no amenities so be sure to pack a snack and water.
AccessibilityThe hiking trails at Mirador El Silencio are not accessible for wheelchair users; however, the lookout at the top parking area is flat hard-packed dirt/gravel. Here, you can take in the beautiful volcano view. Trail 1 from the reception is also flat and wide for a short distance. It has some beautiful flowers and tropical forest to see.
Trail 1 – the Spider TrailConclusionMirador El Silencio is a lesser talked about hiking option around Arenal Volcano. If you are looking for a good hike and some spectacular volcano views, we would highly recommend it.
Have a question about visiting Mirador El Silencio? Ask us below! Looking for more information to help you plan your trip? Check out these articles:Ecotermales: A Small, Upscale Hot Springs Resort in Arenal – These hot springs were just what we needed after hiking up to Mirador El Silencio. Check out this post for details.
Sloths, Birds, and More: The Bogarin Trail in La Fortuna – Looking to see sloths on your trip? This easy trail close to downtown La Fortuna is a good spot to find them. We saw several!
Hiking in Arenal Volcano National Park – Nearby is the official national park for Arenal Volcano. These trails give you a slightly different view and there is a newer accessible trail that leads down to the shores of Lake Arenal.
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August 22, 2021
Ecotermales: A Small, Upscale Hot Springs Resort in Arenal
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
La Fortuna/Arenal Volcano is well known for its hot spring resorts. Some are large, elaborate facilities with many pools and amenities, while others are more rustic and simpler. In this article, we’ll let you know about one option that offers a nice balance. Ecotermales has several spacious hot spring pools and a relaxing, tropical atmosphere.
Ecotermales is located about ten minutes from downtown La Fortuna in Costa Rica’s Northern Zone. The entrance is off Route 142, the road that leads to Lake Arenal. This is a convenient location, as it is not far from most hotels in the area.
Ecotermales was started by a local family. The Hidalgo Murillos helped found the district of La Fortuna. Like much of La Fortuna, the Hidalgo Murillos used the land where Ecotermales now sits for farming and ranching for many years.
Later, it was discovered that the property held thermal springs (freshwater springs and 13 hot springs). Seeing the value in these natural springs, in 2002, Ecotermales was created.
The “eco” reference in Ecotermales is tied to the company’s commitment to sustainability. They have an integrated waste disposal system. This allows them to process all the waste generated from their tourism activities, wastewater, and traditional solid and organic wastes.
The Experience at EcotermalesReception AreaWhen you walk into Ecotermales, you will check in at a desk where they will ask for your reservation and give you a bracelet. The bracelet will have a number. While you can purchase a meal as part of your day pass, drinks are always separate. The bracelet is an easy way to track those cocktail purchases!
Hot Spring PoolsOnce you’ve changed in the locker room and gotten your towel (more below), you can follow the path to the hot spring pools.
The path leading to the hot springsThe path opens to a wide area with pools to the right and left.
Surrounding all the pools is thick green vegetation. Some large trees also overhang parts of the pools, creating some shade. The setting feels very natural and serene.
Two of the pools are large and could easily hold 50 people. Since they are spacious, it’s easy to find a private spot away from others.
The first (and largest) hot springs poolThe water at Ecotermales is heated by magma, deep below the earth’s surface. It contains a lot of magnesium, calcium, and bicarbonates. These are said to help relieve pain and inflammation, and be very relaxing to the muscles. That’s why it’s always a good idea to plan your hot springs visit after a big hike.
The pools range from a warm 32°C (90°F) to a steamy 41°C (106°F). They start cooler and get hotter the farther up the property you go.
We found the first two pools to be the most comfortable. They were nice and hot, but not too hot. We grabbed some cocktails from the servers coming by and relaxed while the kids splashed around. The pools have a wide ledge along the inside edge so that you can stand up and have some of your body out of the water if the temperature gets too intense.
The middle pools – these were hot but still comfortableThe very hot pools you can probably spend only ten or so minutes in at a time, but they do have a dramatic relaxing effect on your muscles. These hot pools are in the back, up a short set of stairs. They are smaller. It’s a series of three pools.
The hottest pools were just above this waterfallEcotermales also has a few small cool water pools. These feel downright cold compared to the hot pools but are very refreshing if you need a break.
Some of the pools have water features. One has a large fountain that sprays up. You’ll also find some pretty waterfalls that you can sit under.
An elegant waterfall surrounded by lush vegetationFood and DrinkPools AreaBacking the pools is a large bar with a sitting area, where you can get drinks. They also have a light food menu.
Cocktail menu!When we visited, there were several servers coming around the pools. It was easy to wave one down and have them bring us drinks without having to leave the water.
There were also a few areas with lounge chairs where you could have a drink or just relax.
Sitting area near the largest hot springs poolRestaurantIf you follow the path back towards the reception, you’ll come to a separate area with an open-air restaurant. This is where they serve lunch and dinner.
Lunch is a typical casado (traditional plate with chicken, beef, or fish, served along with rice and beans and side salads).
Dinner is usually a buffet, but during Covid, they have a menu to order from. This has a few salads, traditional soups and rice dishes, pastas, and entrees with chicken, beef, and locally farmed tilapia. There’s also a snack menu with sandwiches and simple things that are good for kids (e.g., chicken fingers, fish fingers, burgers).
When we’ve visited, the food has been good, but not outstanding. It is very convenient to eat right there, though.
Grilled steak with veggies and potatoPlanning a Visit to EcotermalesDaily Limit on VisitorsOne of the best things about Ecotermales is that it limits the number of people who can visit. Since entrance is restricted, the pools never become crowded like at some other resorts, even during busy times like Christmas/New Years and Easter.
Schedule – When to VisitDay passes are available in two time slots:
9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
5:00 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
The evening can be a nice time to go because it’s cooler. The cool air is a nice contrast to the warm water.
CostDay passes are $44 for entrance only or $72 with lunch or dinner.
Children ages 5-11 are $26 for entrance only or $40 with lunch or dinner.
This makes it one of the more affordable hot spring resorts in La Fortuna.
You can buy tickets online through Ecotermales’ website.
InclusionsEntrance fees include use of a towel and a key for a locker to store your belongings.
Locker Rooms and BathroomsEcotermales has a nice bathroom and changing room. We appreciated the separate family room since we had our small children.
KidsBefore visiting Ecotermales, we had heard that because of the atmosphere, it is better visited without children. However, we felt perfectly comfortable with our kids (ages 5 and 2) during the evening session. We got there soon after it opened around 5 p.m. and left not too late, which probably helped. It didn’t seem like our kids disturbed the adult clientele. We were able to find places to ourselves and the kids did a great job behaving themselves. We got plenty of smiles from some onlookers!
The ambiance after darkIf you have small children, the water depth in some pools is fairly shallow. Our two-year old could walk across the first main pool without any trouble. Some of the other pools were too deep, but he could stand on the edge and still be in the water. There were also a few small pools that were very shallow.
ConclusionIf you’re looking for a nice, but smaller, hot spring resort in La Fortuna, Ecotermales is a great option. It strikes a balance between having an upscale feel, while still feeling comfortable.
Have a question about visiting Ecotermales? Ask us below.Looking for more information to plan your visit to La Fortuna? Check out these posts:Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – Learn what you’ll need to visit Costa Rica’s many microclimates with this post.
North Fields Café: A Delicious Coffee and Chocolate Tour in La Fortuna – This is another great activity in the area that will teach you about the culture. It takes you to a local coffee and chocolate farm.
Driving in Costa Rica: La Fortuna is more spread out so best explore with a rental car. Check out our Costa Rica-specific tips on driving.
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Sloths, Birds, and More: The Bogarin Trail in La Fortuna
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
If you are visiting La Fortuna to explore the jungle and see wildlife, hiking is a great way to do it. But you don’t necessarily have to venture deep into the rainforest or navigate tricky terrain. In this post, we will tell you about a flat easy hike near downtown La Fortuna. The Bogarin Trail is known for its great wildlife and beautiful surrounds. It is common to see sloths, birds, lizards, and frogs throughout the property. Here, we’ll share all the details you need to plan a visit.
The Bogarin Trail is located less than one kilometer (0.6 miles) west of the central park in downtown La Fortuna. You can easily walk there if you don’t have a car.
The entrance is on a side street off the main road, Route 142. If you are heading west on Route 142 towards the volcano, the street is on your right just after La Forchetta Ristorante. It is on the same side road as Arenal Backpackers Resort.
TrailsThe Bogarin Trail property has one main loop that is 2.5 km (1.5 miles) with some connecting trails that crisscross through. The trails are very flat, hard-packed dirt. They are well maintained and perfect for a stroller or even a wheelchair.
On the trails, you’ll find a few covered sitting areas to take a rest or get out of the rain in case it starts pouring. There are also a few small bridges that go over bubbling creeks.
What You’ll SeeEven though the Bogarin Trail is located very close to the main part of La Fortuna, you wouldn’t know it when you are hiking. All around are lofty trees and beautiful tropical plants. You really feel like you are far from it all.
The Bogarin Trail is flat and easy to navigateWildlifeFrom the moment you pass the reception, you can start to see wildlife. A small pond and bird feeder right next to this area attract a lot of animals.
In the pond, our sons quickly spotted a giant freshwater crab. It was at least eight inches wide!
There was also a special ground bird called a Gray-necked Woodrail. These birds make a unique, loud call during the early morning hours. It was eating bugs on the muddy shore when we saw it.
Nicely vegetated pond near the receptionIf you have some extra time to walk around the reception, we would recommend it. This area has a lot of birds and animals coming and going. The owners also place fresh fruit on the birdfeeders to attract even more tropical bird species. There are lots of tanagers and sometimes Aracari, a small type of toucan.
If you are lucky, you also will see birds along the main trails. Some highlights for us were several Rufous-tailed Jacamar, a big family of Gray-headed Chachalacas, a couple of Laughing Falcons, and a sleeping Black and White Owl.
A Laughing Falcon along the trailNear where the trail crosses the small streams, we also got to see some frogs. We could hear them chirping—they sort of sound like crickets. But when we followed the sounds, we saw that they were actually tiny poison-dart frogs.
They call this type the Blue Jean frog because they are mostly red with blue legs. It makes them look like they are wearing a pair of jeans. These frogs like the wet areas around the base of trees and fallen logs.
For mammals, we saw some squirrels in the trees and a cute agouti. This is a small rodent about the size of a bunny.
An agouti crossing our pathLater in the walk, we finally saw what we had really come to this trail for. Not only a sloth, but a mother sloth and her baby!
An adorable mother and baby slothA few minutes later, we were lucky to see another sloth, which was higher up in the trees.
Tip: If you don’t have a lot of experience spotting wildlife in Costa Rica, we would highly recommend doing this tour with a guide. The guides know which trees to look in for sloths and other animals. They also can teach you a lot about them. Read our post about hiring naturalist guides to get a better idea of the value they can add.
Rainforest and GardensIn addition to the amazing wildlife, the overall environment along the Bogarin Trail is really nice and peaceful. There are areas with shorter, thicker forest and other parts with tall shady canopy trees.
Some trees and bushes have interesting flowers or seed pods that fall to the forest floor. Our kids had lots of fun collecting these along with the occasional feather or two.
On the sides of the trails, there are flowering plants like heliconia and butterfly bushes.
We could hear hummingbirds zipping around some of these but didn’t get a good look at them. There were also lots of butterflies, going from flower to flower looking for nectar.
Red Torch Ginger in the garden near the volcano viewing areaThe sound of the rainforest is all around. From birds calling to insects and frogs chirping, and even just branches shifting in the wind.
Volcano ViewOne spot on the trail has a little offshoot that leads to a beautiful garden. This is right next to a large field. It has some more exotic flowers, but also a great view of Arenal Volcano (weather permitting) and Cerro Chato to the left.
Cerro Chato is a dormant volcano that has regrown vegetation and is now brimming with green.
The whole mountain profile is often referred to as the Sleeping Indian. Can you see the shape of a man lying down it in the picture below?
The view of Cerro Chato. Arenal Volcano is just to the right.ConclusionThe Bogarin Trail is just one of the many hiking trails we have explored in La Fortuna, but it definitely makes the list of our favorites. We were astonished with the amount of wildlife we spotted less than a mile from the busy downtown. If you are visiting the area, we would highly recommend it.
Entrance InfoHoursOpen every day, 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Guided tours are offered at 7:00 a.m., 9:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., and 3:00 p.m.
CostSelf-guided: $10 per person. Children under 3 are free. Costa Rica citizens and residents 3,000 colones.
Guided Group Tour: $35 per person ages 12 and over. $20 per person ages 3 to 11. Children under 3 are free.
Guided Private Tour: $45 per person ages 12 and over. $35 per person ages 3 to 11. Children under 3 are free.
AccessibilityThe Bogarin Trail is dirt, but flat and hard-packed so definitely possible in a wheelchair. They also have a ramp at the reception area.
Have a question about visiting the Bogarin Trail? Leave us a comment below. Looking for more information to help you plan? Check out these articles:La Fortuna: What to Expect from Costa Rica’s Most Popular Destination – Learn about the town setup, some great restaurants, and more with this destination guide.
Monteverde: A Forest in the Clouds – Heading to Monteverde after La Fortuna? Get the inside scoop with this post.
Arenal 1968 Trail – Looking for a bit more challenging hike? This trail explores the area around the base of Arenal Volcano. It’s easy to intermediate.
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August 6, 2021
North Fields Café: A Delicious Coffee and Chocolate Tour in La Fortuna
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
Coffee and chocolate are two of the crops that Costa Rica is most famous for. In fact, Costa Rica’s fine Arabica beans have won competitions across the globe. You may have tried some of this specialty coffee from your local grocer, but it is a completely different experience to taste a cup straight from the farm. In this post, we’ll tell you about our visit to North Fields Café. This small farm in La Fortuna offers tours where you’ll learn how coffee and chocolate are made. You’ll also get to enjoy plenty of delicious tastings at the end!
Coffee and chocolate tours are available in several different destinations in Costa Rica. La Fortuna/Arenal, in the country’s Northern Highlands, is one of the best places for these kinds of tours. There are several tours to choose from here. Each offers a slightly different experience.
North Fields Café is a nice balance. They have a small farm just outside downtown La Fortuna. Their tour includes both a chocolate and coffee tasting component so it’s a good option for kids and adults alike.
North Fields Coffee and Chocolate TourWalking the FieldsOur tour began in the coffee fields right across the street from their small office. Alan, our guide and a local from the area, walked us along the well-maintained path.
Alan started by pointing out red and green coffee beans growing from the tall, shiny plants. Since we visited in June, it wasn’t harvest season so most of the coffee cherries we saw were green, but we did see a few ripe red ones.
Coffee plants growing at North FieldsOn the farm, they grew many varieties of coffee. Alan told us about one called Geisha. This type has hints of tea and is favored in the eastern part of the world. In the coffee market, Geisha is one of the most expensive types. In 2019, a Panamanian grower sold just one pound for over $1,000!
In addition to coffee, at North Fields, they also grow cacao plants and many fruits, vegetables, and spices.
For tropical fruits, we saw pineapple, seven types of bananas, and guanabana (soursop), a large green fruit with soft spikes and creamy white flesh. Some other interesting things were hot peppers, vanilla, and elephant-ear plant (taro root).
Learning How Coffee is ProducedAfter a few minutes, we stopped to sit in a covered area where Alan started teaching us about how coffee is made.
The coffee plants start in a nursery. Alan, we learned, has an intimate knowledge of this part of the process. As a kid, he used to help grow coffee plants and sell them to local plantations. He shared memories of adding soil to bags and then planting coffee seedlings in them. Alan has been in the coffee business his whole life, more or less, so we learned a lot from him.
After the coffee plant has had some time to grow, it is transplanted into the fields. Once the plant reaches maturity and begins producing coffee, the coffee cherries are harvested. This is a time-consuming process. In most coffee farms in Costa Rica, harvesting is still done by hand.
After the red cherries are harvested, they are ground to remove the skin from the white beans inside. It is these white beans that will then be dried and roasted into coffee beans.
Raw coffee beans inside the red fruitLearning How Chocolate Is MadeIn addition to coffee, we also learned about the chocolate-making process. We got to see the strange-looking pods growing out of short, but strong-looking, trees. Inside the hard, colorful exterior were rows of seeds covered in a thick white pulp. (See cover photo, above.)
A cacao pod – these can be a variety of different colorsThese seeds go through a fermentation process. Then, similar to coffee, are dried and roasted. Once roasted, they turn the familiar brown color that we know as chocolate.
Chocolate Tastings!Back at the office, Alan brought us to a small room and told us to take a seat at the rustic table.
In front of us were little ceramic containers, a small metal container, wooden bowl, and a glass of water. We were going to get to start tasting chocolate.
Alan started a demonstration along with another guy named Christian and Christian’s father. He ground the cacao beans using an old-fashioned machine, then put some of the coarse chocolate into a special grinder. The chocolate needs to spend quite a bit of time in this machine to reach a smooth consistency.
Hand grinding the cacao into coarse chocolateLuckily, Alan and his team had some chocolate already made and ready.
They started bringing out small chunks to each of us and told us that we would be playing a game. We would need to guess which chocolate was the darkest, from 60% to 85%.
We like dark chocolate so it was easy for us to know which one was the 60% with the most sugar. We did the tour with our young kids, and they picked out the 85% right away, their faces grimacing. It was definitely too bitter for them!
After enjoying lots of delicious chocolate, we then got to mix some ourselves. In our metal cup, we could add sugar for sweetness and powdered milk to get a creamier consistency. They also invited us to try spices such as vanilla, cinnamon, cayenne, and salt. The raw taste of the freshly ground cacao was divine, especially when we added some of our favorite flavors.
100% pure chocolateCoffee Tastings!Roasting the BeansWith our stomachs full of rich chocolate, it was time to learn about the next steps for making coffee.
Alan added some dried beans into a huge stone roaster. They had made this for demonstration purposes to give an idea of how coffee was processed in the old days. Christian placed the metal drum over a fire, continuously turning it so that the beans would roast evenly. After a few minutes, we began to smell the strong aroma of coffee.
They kept checking the color of the beans, then at the precise moment when they were the right color, Alan released them into a metal base with holes and stirred until they cooled.
Freshly roasted coffee – the smell was wonderful!Now roasted, these beans were ready to be made into coffee.
Brewing CoffeeAlan walked us over to their small coffee bar and talked about how to make a good cup of joe.
As people who drink coffee multiple times a day, we loved hearing his insight into what it takes to make the perfect cup.
He showed us how coffee is made the traditional way in Costa Rica using a device called a chorreador. This is basic wooden stand with a cloth filter. You put enough coffee in the filter for one cup, then pour hot water over it, letting the coffee slowly percolate into the cup below.
Alan explained that chorreadors are sort of nostalgic in Costa Rica. They are something that most Costa Ricans remember from childhood and seeing one in their abuela’s (grandmother’s) house.
A traditional chorreadorAlan then explained other methods of preparing coffee, including the common drip method, French press, and Chemex brewer.
Finally, the coffee was ready, and we got to taste some for ourselves.
Alan had brewed some of their medium and dark roasts. We tried the medium, black of course so that we could taste the flavor profile, and it was delicious.
Tasting some of the delicious freshly brewed coffeeAlongside our coffee, they gave us some simple arepas to help absorb the chocolate and caffeine that filled our bellies.
ConclusionWe have done many coffee and chocolate tours in Costa Rica and thought that North Fields was one of the best. They have a nice balance of learning about the production process and getting to enjoy some of the (delicious) results. The chocolate and coffee tastings were elaborate and fun to experience!
North Fields Coffee Tour Details Tour TimesNorth Fields does tours daily at 8:00 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., 2:00 p.m., and 3:00 p.m.
Cost$40 per person adults
$30 per person students
Free for children ages 9 and under
Duration2.5 hours (approximate)
IncludesRound-trip transportation from hotels near downtown La Fortuna, bilingual guide, and tastings.
Booking Your TourIf you’d like to book the North Fields coffee/chocolate tour, we would be happy to help. Send us an email at bookings(at)twoweeksincostarica(dot)com with the number of adults, children (with ages), date and time you’d like to do the tour, as well as your pickup location. Booking through us costs the same and helps support our website!
A Safari River Float in La Fortuna/Arenal: This is another fun activity in the area. It’s good for the whole family and an easy way to see wildlife.
Night Tour at Arenal Oasis: Read about our experience on the night tour at the Arenal Oasis Reserve. We got to see lots of frogs and even snakes.
Vacation Rentals in Costa Rica: Safety and What to Look for – Thinking of renting an Airbnb? Check out our article for Costa Rica-specific tips.
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July 30, 2021
La Fortuna Night Tour at Arenal Oasis
Two Weeks in Costa Rica |
If you are traveling to Costa Rica to see wildlife, a night tour should definitely be on your list. We have done night tours in many spots around the country, and they are all different and wonderful in their own way. You never know what you will come across. The rainforest becomes extra active at night, and a guide can show you many species that are not usually noticeable during the day. In this post, we’ll tell you about an exciting night tour in La Fortuna at a small reserve called Arenal Oasis. Beware, we did see some scary stuff, so if you are nervous about a night tour, read with caution!
Arenal Oasis is a small wildlife refuge and ecolodge located in La Fortuna. The property sits on the eastern side of the famous Arenal Volcano and is close to town. With varied habitat including rainforest, gardens, and some spring-fed ponds, Arenal Oasis is the perfect spot to see many species living together in one place.
During the day, birding tours are very popular. Over 150 species have been identified on the property, which is a little less than 12 acres (5 hectares).
At night, guided tours bring you through the forest and around the spring-fed ponds. These water sources attract as many as 28 frog species. The frogs, in turn, attract other creatures like snakes, birds, and small mammals.
Because it is rainforest, there is always the chance to see other interesting critters too, especially insects and spiders.
Hourglass Tree Frog – can you see the hourglass shape on its back?The Night Tour at Arenal OasisThe night tour starts around dusk at the Arenal Oasis reception area. Here, you meet up with the guide and get a flashlight to use on the trail. At this point, the sun is just going down so you have an opportunity to get familiar with your surroundings before it gets too dark.
It gets dark around 6:00 p.m. in Costa Rica all year-round, so you don’t have to be out too late to get the full experience.
When a lot of people are going on the night tour, groups get split up and go with different guides. This helps you be able to hear the guide and gather around him or her while they are explaining things along the way. Our group had about 10 people in it, which was good, but you sometimes couldn’t hear the guide very well if you were near the back.
Our Experience on the Night TourWhen we took the Arenal Oasis night tour, it was us and our two kids, ages five and two. Our five-year old, Sam, was ready and excited, but our 2-year old, Evan, wasn’t so sure. If you do try it with younger kids, we would recommend bringing a baby carrier so you can keep them close by.
Our night tour started off with some rain, which is very common in La Fortuna — it’s what keeps the rainforest lush and green after all.
Luckily it only rained hard for a few minutes and then cleared up to a light sprinkle. Everyone in our group had raincoats and some had umbrellas too.
The trails at Arenal Oasis are very flat and easy. However, they are narrow at times, and you do brush up against sticks and leaves occasionally.
The trails weren’t too muddy, even with the rain, but closed-toed shoes are a necessity, especially with biting ants and things slithering across the trail (see below!).
What We SawAs our guide led us through the forest, it wasn’t long before we started seeing some critters.
We first saw a cool giant grasshopper that was about seven inches (18 cm) long. Next, we observed a golden-orb spider weaving her web between some leaves.
Turning around, our guide spotted a larger frog in the tree. He explained that it was a Mexican tree frog and showed us the interesting camouflage pattern on its skin.
One of the many Mexican tree frogs we saw along the trailWe continued walking single file along the trail, as heavy water drops fell from the trees. It was completely dark now and we all swished our flashlights back and forth, looking for more.
Constantly we were stopping to observe something new. There were centipedes and millipedes, and different frogs and toads. Early on, we saw more Mexican tree frogs, along with brilliant emerald frogs, a leaf litter toad, and a common rain frog.
We were able to get some nice pictures of the frogs with our phones and cameras.
Snake!Along one stretch of the trail, we got walking at a fairly good pace. Our family was toward the back.
Suddenly our son Sam’s flashlight illuminated something slithering under some low leaves that were hanging over the trail. Matt immediately recognized the A-shaped pattern on its skin. He quickly stopped Sam in his tracks and called out to the guide ahead. It was a terciopelo, a fer-de-lance!
The fer-de-lance (Bothrops asper) is known as Costa Rica’s deadliest snake since it causes more fatal bites than any other. This one was also huge at about five feet (1.5 meters) long! To make it even scarier, almost our entire group had walked within a couple of feet of it, without even noticing.
Our guide quickly jumped into action, making sure everyone kept their distance as the snake slowly slithered off the trail and coiled up next to the base of a tree. The guide then warned the group that was coming down the trail behind us to use caution.
A fully grown Fer-de-lance, just off the trail!This close encounter had our whole group on edge. Suddenly everyone was walking very carefully in the middle of the trail and using their flashlights to illuminate the way.
Frog PondsAs it turns out, we were getting close to the spring-fed ponds, which attract a lot of frogs. Our guide explained that snakes love to eat frogs and that is why you often find them both in the same area.
In fact, we saw one more smaller fer-de-lance on the side of the trail in some leaves right before the first pond. This one just slithered away as we tiptoed past.
The sound of frogs chirping got louder and louder as we approached the water. Soon our guide stopped and pointed his light on a leaf. It was Costa Rica’s most famous frog, the red-eyed tree frog. These are striking, with a bright green color, orange feet, and red eyes. They are often used in marketing materials in Costa Rica because of their beauty.
A beautiful red-eyed tree frogWe saw several of these special frogs, all hanging out above the ponds on leaves and branches.
In addition to the red-eyed tree frog, we saw some hourglass tree frogs, a web-footed frog, narrow-headed tree frog, and some giant Central American bullfrogs.
We even saw some eggs that one frog had laid on a leaf. These were strategically placed so that the tadpoles would fall into the water below when they hatched.
Some frog eggs hanging over a pondFinishing the TourThere were several ponds that we passed along the last part of the trail. They all had a chorus of frogs chirping around them, and we got to see many more of the same species we had previously spotted.
Before looping back around and heading for the reception, we got to see another species of snake. This one was small and much less harmful. It was called a cat-eyed snake. They have a very mild venom that usually isn’t too harmful to humans.
A small cat-eyed snakeAfter about two hours in the wet jungle, we were all ready to get back to our cars. Not far from the parking area, we did have one more fun sighting: a sleeping toucan, high up in a tree.
ConclusionThe night tour at Arenal Oasis was definitely an adventure for our family. We did come in close contact with some scary snakes, but it was also really cool to see some of Costa Rica’s most beautiful frogs and insects. When walking the trails, it’s an amazing feeling to experience how alive the jungle becomes at night.
La Fortuna Hotel Guide – We’ve stayed in and toured many of the area hotels. We put our favorites into this guide, which includes options for all budgets.
Rental Car Discount – Exploring La Fortuna can be easier with a car, especially since activities and restaurants are spread out. Get a discount and free extras with one of the most reliable companies around.
A Safari River Float in La Fortuna/Arenal – This is another excellent way to see wildlife in La Fortuna.
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