Mark Horrell's Blog, page 38

Vanity has been dogging Everest expeditions since 1972

Mount Everest … forbidding, aloof, terrifying

In such freezing, adverse conditions, man comes very close to breaking point. What was the real cause of the disharmony which destroyed their chances of success?

That got your attention I hope. Ever since I saw this headline in Kathmandu news portal República, I’ve been determined to use the word dogging in the title of a blog post.

Today’s Everest climbers are often compared unfavourably with the heroic expeditions of the past. There is a popular...

What does the Nepal Mountaineering Association do?

In last week’s post I mentioned that a change in the rules governing climbing permits has deprived the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) of a significant part of its annual budget. In this week’s post I will look in more detail at the work of the NMA to give a better idea of what programmes will be affected and what this change is likely to mean for mountain tourism in Nepal.

The NMA was established as a non-profit, non-governmental organisation (NGO) in 1973, with the initial aim of tra...

Death of the Nepal trekking peaks?

“I feel that the full potential of these eighteen mountains has not been realised.” Jimmy Roberts, Foreword to The Trekking Peaks of Nepal by Bill O’Connor

Earthquakes, fuel strikes and the usual vacuous announcements about Everest have been dominating the news agenda about Nepal over the last few weeks and months. It’s hardly surprising that a seemingly obscure directive from Nepal’s tourism ministry to its principal mountaineering organisation has largely gone unnoticed.

But if you’re inter...

An early history of the 8000m peaks: Mummery, Crowley and the Duke of Abruzzi

The fourteen peaks over 8000 metres have enjoyed a special status throughout the 20th century and were subject to many races to climb them. In the first of a short series of posts about their early history I introduce three memorable characters.

Albert Mummery, the Alpine Pioneer Albert Mummery, a true pioneer in the Alps, but not so hot in the Himalayas (Photo: Martin Jacolette)

The first man to attempt an 8,000er was the British climber Albert Mummery, who attempted 8125m Nanga Parbat in th...

Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest out on Monday!

A quick note to let you know that those of you who pre-ordered my book from Amazon should receive it on your Kindle on Monday (9th). If you’ve bought it elsewhere, such as Apple iBooks, Barnes & Noble, Kobo and Smashwords, then you should receive it the following Monday, 16th. This is ahead of my original release date of 1st December.

I would like to thank each and every one of you for your support over the last five years, either as readers of my blog or diaries. Thanks to you I can be confi...

The Abruzzo Quartet: an autumn feast of mountains

It’s been a few weeks since I last reported on our continuing adventures in the mountainous Abruzzo region of Italy. This isn’t because there’s been nothing to report, but I didn’t want to risk boring you by detailing every visit.

But over the course of two weekends we visited Abruzzo National Park and climbed the four main peaks in the area: La Meta (2242m), Monte Petroso (2249m), Monte Greco (2285m) and Monte Marsicano (2253m). Abruzzo has provided a feast of mountains for us throughout 201...

Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest: read the complete prologue

I’m making good progress and on track to publish my book Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest well ahead of my 1 December deadline. It’s been over three years in the making and I’m very happy to be so close.

If you pre-ordered it then it should be appearing on your e-readers early in November. If you haven’t pre-ordered it yet, here is the complete prologue from the book to whet your appetite and tempt you to buy the whole thing.

The book is available HALF PRICE for a limited period, so hurry!...

Book review: The Ghosts of K2 by Mick Conefrey

“It’s a savage mountain that tries to kill you.”
George Bell, upon returning from K2 in 1953

Of all the 8000m peaks 8,611m K2, straddling the China-Pakistan border in the Karakoram, seems to be the one that arouses public interest more than any other besides Everest. I don’t believe this is simply because it’s the second highest. Nor is it because it’s the most dangerous – arguably that title goes to Annapurna, which takes one life for every three successful summiteers. Possibly, just possibl...

The first ascent of the Southwest Face of Everest

At 6pm on 24 September 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston, staggered up the final slopes of Everest’s Southeast Ridge and became the first two Brits to stand on top of the world’s highest mountain. They had also become the first to ascend by the Southwest Face, joining the standard Southeast Ridge route close to the South Summit, in a classic siege-style expedition led by Chris Bonington.

At 7pm on 24 September 2015, forty years later, ten members of that expedition assembled at the Royal Geo...

The Snowdon Horseshoe: Britain’s classic hill walk

It’s possible Snowdon is one of the most popular hills in Britain simply because it’s the highest in all of England and Wales, but I like to think it’s because it’s also one of the best: a giant massif of individual summits joined by ridges broad and narrow, and separated by towering cliff faces and secluded cwms speckled with colourful lakes.

Its intricate nature means there are many ascent routes, each with their own character. I’ve hiked up most of them: the Pyg Track, Miners Track, Crib G...