Matador Network's Blog, page 94

I Took My Toddler on The Polar Express in Durango, and It Made a Believer Out of Us Both

As a travel editor, few things make me prouder than taking my three-year-old daughter, Olivia, with me on the road. For someone her age, she’s spent an exorbitant number of nights in hotel rooms, and recently completed a two-week road trip across central Mexico with more composure than most American adults would be able to muster. Often, though, our travels aren’t solely focused around her, so it was with great excitement that my wife, Alisha, and I brought her four hours south of our home in Palisade, Colorado, to ride The Polar Express train in Durango. Running nightly from late November through early January, the experience is centered around the kid’s Christmas tale – and it does a fantastic job of bringing it to life. Here’s what to know about The Polar Express including what it’s like, how long it takes, and how much it costs.

What to know about The Polar Express in Durango

The “Hero Boy” gives a performance before the crowd boards the train. Photo: Tim Wenger

The first Polar Express train departs the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad station in downtown Durango in late November each year, with the 2024 season kicking off November 22 and ending January 4. Trains depart nightly at 4:55, 6:30, and 8:00 PM, with fares ranging from $39 to $93, depending on whether you book early, peak, or late season, and on which cabin you reserve (Coach, Deluxe, and First Class tickets are available). Tickets must be purchased online in advance. Passengers in all classes are served hot cocoa and cookies, and receive a commemorative Polar Express mug to take home.

Many kids, including Olivia, arrive in pajamas (some adults do, as well, though Alisha and I Scrooged out on that). The attitude is quite casual, but Santa hats are common and many people take the experience quite seriously – not just the kids. Nostalgia runs deep, we learned.

We arrived at the station about 15 minutes before boarding to pick up our tickets. Coffee and refreshments were available for purchase, and the D&SNGRR gift shop was, of course, open. After grabbing our tickets we headed out to the platform, which was packed with revelers awaiting the start of the show. Spirits were high – and not just because we’d just come from dinner and drinks at Steamworks Brewing Company a few blocks away – a festive and appropriately train-themed place to gather before the ride.

Getting into the Christmas spirit

The Big Guy himself was, of course, the star of the show. Photo: Tim Wenger

I often maintain a drab outer shell when it comes to festiveness, but come December a minor spritz of holiday spirit bursts through. It happened early this year, the exact moment being when a character portraying the “hero boy” from the Polar Express book (oddly enough, none of the book’s primary characters are actually named) took to a makeshift stage in front of the train. There, he belted out his reluctance to board the train that had parked in front of his house, or in this case, the downtown Durango train station.

By the time the Conductor joined him on the stage to nobly proclaim that, “Seeing is believing, but sometimes the most real things in the world are the things we can’t see,” I was in full-on Christmas mode.

Olivia was, too. I hadn’t seen her this visibly enchanted since the first time I took her on public transit following weeks of her pointing out, “There goes the BUS!” each hour as it drove past our house. Olivia tends to go silent but wear a broad smile when she’s super excited. This was the case as we boarded the Polar Express and took our seats.

We sat in a Deluxe Class train car. The car was staffed by two young actresses, one dressed as a chef and the other as a steward. Over the ensuing 65 minutes they’d break into song some half-dozen times, accompanying each with a dance through the aisle. The journey began with a reenactment of the iconic scene where the “Hero Boy’s” train ticket is punched repeatedly, causing a flurry of snowflake-like shards of paper to fall upon him as though the roof had suddenly burst open amidst a blizzard. Olivia’s experience wasn’t quite as profound, but she did find herself covered with little bits of paper and refused to let go of the hole-punched ticket for the remainder of the night.

What it’s like to ride the Polar Express train in Durango

She spotted Santa before I did. Photo: Tim Wenger

Christmas carols dominated conversation throughout the trip. Iconic lines from “The Polar Express” echoed over the loudspeaker, in the voice of the Conductor himself. Hot chocolate was served as the train steamed slowly north through town, reaching the North Pole in Hermosa about half an hour later. As we approached, the stewardess instructed the kiddos to look out the windows opposite our seats. Sure enough, there was Santa, waving among a pack of elves. Chaos nearly ensued in the train car as the kids scrambled to get a glimpse of the “Big Guy.” Fortunately, the train pulled on past Santa’s home, maneuvered itself to head back the other direction, and passed Santa again, this time out the window on our side.

It slowed down momentarily. A dozen or so elves performed a dance in front of a Christmas-light-illuminated facade of Santa’s home and workshop. We then kept going, the kiddos screaming with delight as it was announced over the PA that Santa himself would be joining us for the ride back to the station. He delivered the iconic silver bell to each passenger, signifying the “first gift of Christmas.” The bell, along with the opportunity to take a photo with Santa, proved to be the highlight of the train ride for many of the kids on board, including mine.

The reindeer made for a memorable end to the night. Photo: Tim Wenger

We pulled back into the station in downtown Durango shortly over an hour after we’d departed. It felt as though we’d be gone a day, however, as the mood inside the train was exuberant. The kids rang their bells and sang along to the Christmas carols, the lyrics to each being presented to each party in a booklet. After disembarking from the train, we witnessed two young reindeers feeding in an enclosure, which instantly caught Olivia’s attention. Passing through the D&SNG Museum on our way out, there was one final opportunity to take a photo with Santa while perusing the historic train memorabilia and the most epic model train display I’ve ever seen – it covered a living-room-size space and necessitated a set of bleachers for the kids climb on in order to take it all in. Olivia was nearly overwhelmed with fascination at the entire experience.

“You know what this means,” Alisha said as we walked out of the station and into the night. “We’re going to have to come back every year.”

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Mass Poisoning From Tainted Alcohol Kills at Least Six Tourists in Popular Southeast Asia Backpacking Town

Tourists in the popular backpacker town of Vang Vieng, Laos, are on high alert after an incidence of mass methanol poisoning that has killed at least six tourists and injured more. Two Australian teens, two Danes, one woman from the UK, and an American man have been confirmed dead.

European backpackers have been going to Vang Vieng in large numbers for two decades. It has a reputation for river sports and partying at the many bars and restaurants. The rowdy, and sometimes dangerous, atmosphere that largely defined the town for tourists in the past has been reigned in with more regulation over the years. The new methanol poisoning incidents have raised new safety fears and led to travel alerts from the governments of the United States and other countries. More than 600,000 tourists visited Vang Vieng in 2023, according to the AP.

According to Sky News, at least one of the people who died had previously consumed free shots from a bar. Five others who were at the same bar were hospitalized with methanol poisoning.

Methanol is industrial-grade alcohol that’s used in paint thinners and antifreeze. Methanol is added to liquor or mixed drinks because it’s much cheaper than alcohol. It is quickly lethal in small doses. Just 25 milliliters, about half the size of a standard shot, can lead to death without medical treatment. It is also hard to gauge, as the first symptoms resemble the effects of alcohol and severe symptoms don’t start until 12 to 24 hours later.

Travelers can avoid tainted drinks by purchasing alcohol only from reputable sources and avoiding homemade or unlabeled spirits. Suspicious drinks often have a harsh chemical taste. Bringing a methanol testing kit can also help detect unsafe alcohol. There are treatments, including dialysis, supportive care for organ damage, and ethanol to inhibit methanol metabolism.

The most important thing is to get treatment as soon as suspected poisoning occurs. Early signs resemble typical alcohol intoxication but escalate to severe symptoms, including:

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Save Up to $2,000 Per Couple on the Rocky Mountaineer This Black Friday

Rocky Mountaineer, renowned for its world-class rail journeys, invites travelers to embark on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure through North America’s most stunning landscapes, and this Black Friday, it is offering significant savings on select packages for 2025 travel dates. With discounts of up to $2,000 per couple, this is the perfect opportunity to book your dream vacation and experience the magic of rail travel.

Photo: Rocky Mountaineer and Noel Hendrickson

Rocky Mountaineer’s US Rockies to the Red Rocks route is ideal for those wanting to journey through the American Southwest. There are two routes: the Rockies to the Red Rocks Classic and the Rockies to Red Rocks Mighty 5 Explorer. Both include two days of rail travel. The adventures traverse the heart of the Colorado Rockies, offering panoramic views of towering peaks, valleys, winding rivers, red rock canyons, and arid deserts. On these routes, you can explore iconic destinations such as Denver, Glenwood Springs, and Moab. The Black Friday sale includes $1,000 off each guest when you book a package of five nights or more. It also includes bookings for SilverLeaf Service and SilverLeaf Plus.

Silverleaf offers a more elevated rail experience, with spacious coaches featuring large windows that provide panoramic views of the passing scenery. The seats are comfortable and reclining, and there’s a breakfast and lunch service with braised short ribs and chocolate torte.

Photo: Rocky Mountaineer

Rocky Mountaineer also offers three Canadian routes:

First Passage to the West: This two-day journey takes you from Vancouver to the mountain town of Banff. Along the way, you’ll witness the stunning beauty of the Canadian Rockies, including the Kicking Horse Pass and the turquoise waters of Lake Louise.

Journey through the Clouds Grand Adventure: This two-day route traverses the heart of the Canadian Rockies from Vancouver to Jasper. The train ascends to breathtaking heights, offering panoramic views of snow-capped peaks, pristine lakes, and forests.

Rainforest to Gold Rush: This three-day journey combines the natural wonders of British Columbia’s coastal rainforests with the historic mining towns of the Cariboo region. You’ll experience Canada’s diverse landscapes, from the rugged beauty of the Coast Mountains to that of the Fraser River Valley.

Photo: Rocky Mountaineer

For Canadian routes, Rocky Mountaineer is offering $755 off per person when booking six or more nights. This generous discount covers both GoldLeaf Service and SilverLeaf Service. GoldLeaf guests have exclusive access to the luxurious dome car, providing a breathtaking vantage point and a more elevated menu.

The Black Friday promotion runs from November 14 to December 5. For further details and terms and conditions, please visit the site.

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See Brand New Photos From Inside Notre Dame, After the Fire That Nearly Destroyed It

Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris is expected to reopen on December 7, 2024, following a five-year closure caused by a massive 2019 fire. The April 19 event captured the world’s attention, with the cathedral’s iconic spire collapsing less than two hours after the fire was discovered. Firefighters worked for more than 12 hours to control the flames and ultimately saved the main structure, including the bell towers and many of the cathedral’s treasured relics. However, the roof, much of the upper stonework, and the spire were completely destroyed.

Investigators aren’t sure how the fire started, though they think it began in the attic. The historic building was full of centuries-old wooden beams to support the roof, which provided plenty of fuel for the fire to rapidly spread.

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In the days following the fire, French President Emmanuel Macron vowed to rebuild the cathedral, setting an ambitious timeline of five years. By the end of 2019, donations from individuals, corporations, and governments had reached nearly 1 billion euros. The reconstruction project, however, faced significant challenges, including debates over whether to restore the cathedral to its original design, or incorporate modern elements. Ultimately, authorities decided to rebuild the spire as it was, using a design by 19th-century architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.

Restoring the cathedral has been a massive project and one done mostly outside of the public realm — until recently. In late summer of 2024, a photographer with National Geographic was allowed to go inside to photograph the Notre Dame repairs as they neared the end of the renovation process. NatGeo was the only publication given that level of access, and the photos published in the magazine’s December 2024 issue highlight the country’s labor of love to rebuild its beloved cathedral (and popular tourist attraction).

National Geographic grated Matador Network the opportunity to publish some of the most exciting photos from the almost-finished Notre Dame repairs.

A protective gaze

Photo: Thomas van Houtryve for National Geographic

Above: High atop the bell towers, many of the beloved grotesques added by 19th-century restorer Eugène-Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc overlook the city. The one in the foreground is known as “Le Stryge.” Notre Dame features both grotesques, which are decorative, and gargoyles, which double as rainspouts. Masons took damaged gargoyles down to be repaired, setting some alongside newly sculpted replicas, shown here waiting to be hoisted into place.

Photo: Thomas van Houtryve for National Geographic

Above: At the top of the vaulted ceiling, a gilded angel adorns the oculus (the stone ring at the apex of the chamber and transept crossing). The key structural element was part of an area where the original spire had pierced the original ceiling as it fell. Once the repair scaffolding was dismantled, the opening was sealed, and the oculus rebuilt.

Hallowed interiors

Photo: Thomas van Houtryve for National Geographic

Above: The 19th-century religious wall paintings in the side chapels of the choir survived, but were carefully cleaned and restored, as illustrated by the fine brushwork inside the Sainte-Madeleine Chapel, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene.

Photo: Thomas van Houtryve for National Geographic

Above: Notre Dame’s nave, seen here from the organ balcony at the west front, is cleaner and brighter than anyone alive has seen it before, thanks to a latex application that peeled away the soot and lead. “People won’t recognize it,” said Marie-Hélène Didier, a conservator who monitors the restoration for the culture ministry.

Here’s what the nave looked like before the fire:

 

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National Geographic Magazine Cover, Dec. 2024. Photo: National Geographic

For more details on the extensive Notre Dame repairs, as well as more photos, read the complete article on NatGeo.com.

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These 3 Sites Could Become California’s Newest National Monuments

California may soon see the addition of three new national monuments, if tribal leaders are successful in their calls to spur President Joe Biden to action. Along with environmental groups and local advocates, Indigenous groups are pressing for President Biden to use the Antiquities Act of 1906 to designate three new federally protected areas: what would become Chuckwalla, Kw’tzan, and Sáttítla national monuments. By using the Antiquities Act, the president can create new national monuments with a proclamation, rather than waiting for an act of Congress, as is required for national parks. President Obama created three in California in 2016.

Advocates for the new monuments argue that the areas meet the necessary criteria: they contain significant cultural sites, unique ecosystems, and landscapes vulnerable to development. Tribal representatives say that the sites are key to preserving Indigenous heritage, as many of the proposed sites hold spiritual and historical significance. Environmental groups point to the ecological benefits of protection, particularly as these regions face threats from climate change and resource extraction, while also serving as homes for threatened species.

 

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Advocates are also worried that if President Biden doesn’t act soon, the opportunity will be forever lost. President-elect Trump has voiced support for reducing environmental regulations and reduced the size of existing national monuments during his first administration, leading many to believe that the three sites may be damaged beyond repair during the next four years.

As of November 22, 2024, there have been no official public statements from the White House regarding the proposed designations of the Chuckwalla, Kw’tsán, and Sáttítla National Monuments in California.

Heres what to know about the three proposed national monument sites.

Kw’tsán National Monument

Photo: Scenic Corner/Shutterstock

The southernmost proposed monument is Kw’tsán National Monument, which aims to protect approximately 390,000 acres of ancestral lands in Imperial County, California. The lands hold profound cultural and spiritual significance to the nearby Fort Yuma Quechan Indian Tribe. The monument would preserve the native homelands of several Indigenous tribes in the area, and would lend extra protection to lands within Indian Pass, an area designated by the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM) as an “Area of Critical Environmental Concern.” The monument would also safeguard an ecosystem that serves as habitat for rare and threatened species, including the desert tortoise and burrowing owl.

Opposition to the designation primarily centers around potential restrictions on resource extraction and land use, such as mining and grazing activities. Recreational interests, including off-road vehicle enthusiasts, also express concerns about losing access to parts of the land. Some also say it’s a land grab, and that limitations on development would make it too difficult to “secure the southern border.”

Chuckwalla National Monument

Photo: Angela Dukich/Shutterstock

Further north is the proposed Chuckwalla National Monument, which would protect 627,000 acres to the south of Joshua Tree National Park. The effort is being led by the Torres Martinez Desert Cahuilla Indians, the Fort Yuma Quechan Tribe, and the Twenty-Nine Palms Band of Mission Indians, among other native land owners. Supporters say the monument would “protect important heritage values tied to the land,” including petroglyphs, traditional cultural places, sacred sites, and more. It’s also home to several historical routes used by both Indigenous groups and early white settlers, and homes to several rare and endangered species of native California flora and fauna.

As with Kw’tsán, people against the designation are mostly opposed to limitations it could put on recreation and extractive businesses, as the national monument designation would likely include new limitations on the public’s ability to mine or drive off-road vehicles in the desert.

Supporters are also hoping to add an additional 17,000 acres to Joshua Tree National Park to protect wildlife habitat. If the push is successful, Chuckwalla National Monument would be the fifth-largest national monument in the Lower 48. Currently, one of the most popular areas within the proposed monument is the Mecca Hills Wilderness, run by the BLM and known for canyoneering, desert wildlife watching, and numerous hiking and backpacking trails.

Sáttítla National Monument

Photo: ImagesInMotion111/Shutterstock

The third proposed monument is in far-north California, close to the town of Mount Shasta. Sáttítla National Monument would protect more than 200,000 acres within the Medicine Lake Highlands, an area that holds profound cultural and spiritual significance for the Pit River Tribe and other Indigenous communities. Historically, the healthy landscapes supported many Indigenous tribes in the region, and today, several still use sites within the proposed monument for spiritual ceremonies. Much of the state also relies on the region, as it captures a significant amount of snowmelt from the surrounding Sierra Nevada and feeds rivers that supply California’s drinking water.

There’s perhaps less opposition to Sáttítla than there are to the other monuments — perhaps because it’s in one of the most sparsely populated areas of California — though some forestry groups have suggested that switching to federal management may impede some current wildfire prevention projects.

The land within the proposed monument is currently a mix of private land and national forests. The latter are open to the public, though access may be difficult in the winter due to heavy snowfall. One of the most popular places for recreation around the Medicine Lake Highlands is Medicine Lake itself, currently managed by the US Forest Service. It’s popular for boating, fishing, and camping, among other outdoorsy activities.

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Shake Shack Will Soon Be Available on Delta Flights, but Only for Some Passengers

Shake Shack is taking their signature cheeseburger to 30,000 feet with a partnership with Delta Airlines. For many, there are moments when only a cheeseburger will suffice — during a frantic Christmas shopping trip, when we are feeling a little worse for wear, and in a week or so, some fortunate passengers can chow down on Shake Shack as part of their in-flight meal on routes over 900 miles. And I say “some” because this privilege is reserved for Delta’s flist-class passengers. From December 1, the world-famous burgers will be available on select long-haul flights out of Boston.

The Shake Shack Cheeseburger meal served onboard will include a 100 percent Angus beef patty, melty cheese, and a toasted potato bun. Passengers can customize their burger with classic toppings like tomato, lettuce, and the brand’s signature ShackSauce. The meal will be accompanied by a side of chips, Caesar salad, and a decadent dark chocolate brownie inspired by Shake Shack’s popular dessert offerings.

“At Shake Shack, we’re always looking for new and innovative ways to meet our guests where they are, even at 35,000 feet,” says the president of Global Licensing at Shake Shack, Michael Kark, in a press release. “Taking our beloved cheeseburger to new heights, Shake Shack is proud to partner with Delta as we elevate the in-flight dining and hospitality experience for travelers across the country.”

Shake Shack currently operates 19 licensed locations in US airports, including two at the Delta terminal in New York’s JFK Airport. The company plans to open another location at Boston’s Logan International Airport within six weeks, though it won’t be in the Delta terminals.

If you want to elevate your first-class experience with a side of fast food, you’ll need to plan ahead. First-class Delta passengers can pre-order their Shake Shack Cheeseburger up to 24 hours before their flight. You can do this through the Fly Delta app or by sending a link to your email seven days prior to departure.

Delta plans to expand to offer this option on other US flights throughout 2025. Unfortunately, it is not clear whether that means it will be available to other classes.

This collaboration expands on Delta’s existing partnership with Union Square Hospitality Group (USHG) and its founder, Danny Meyer, the mastermind behind Shake Shack. Meals from Union Square Events, USHG’s catering arm, are already available on specific Delta flights departing from John F. Kennedy International Airport.

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Europe’s 10 Capital Cities Where Residents Might Speak Better English Than You

Growing up in Europe, I’ve experienced firsthand how humbling it is to live with people with English as their second language. As I’ve clumsily stringed together broken sentences in their native tongue, they’ve replied in near-perfect English — a clear indication that I should give up and stop embarrassing myself. It’s the same in other places I’ve lived around the world. From Asia to South America, people have better language skills than us native English speakers. And sure, this is in part because many need to learn our language, but that argument only goes so far. I’ve sat at tables with friends who have bounced from German, French, Dutch, to Spanish, and back to English (mainly for my benefit.) Most of us English speakers are inherently lazy with our language skills, and even if you’re going to dust off your schoolbook for your next European vacation, there are certain European cities where the population’s proficiency will stop you in your tracks before you can mumble, “hallo.”

Every year, global education company Education First (EF) publishes a report ranking the top (and bottom) countries in terms of English proficiency in its English Proficiency Index (EPI).

Analyzing the results of 2.1 million non-native English speakers who took EF’s Standard English Tests in 2023, each country is ranked out of 800 points. This year, the results showed a general decline in English proficiency, with women and students having the weakest skills.

Looking at this data, Matador has complied with the top ten European capital cities, where you will be best understood. These are the findings:

1. Amsterdam2. Oslo3. Stockholm 4. Zagreb5. Lisbon 6. Copenhagen7. Athens8. Vienna9. Berlin10. Bucharest

In the 2024 results, nine out of 10 of the most English-proficient countries in the world are European. Singapore took third place, which is hardly surprising if you’ve ever visited.

The Netherlands again took the top spot with 636 points, having the best second-language English skills in Europe and among 116 countries globally.

But there are plenty of other European places where you’ll likely be understood if you need to communicate in English.

Also among the top countries with “very high proficiency” rating were Norway, which scored second place globally with 610 points, and Sweden, which took fourth place with 608 points. Croatia, Portugal, Denmark, Greece, and Austria made up the rest of the top-level category.

Some of Europe’s most popular tourist destinations, however, only have “moderate proficiency” in English.

France has slipped down the list since 2021, when it sat in the “high proficiency” category in 31st place globally. In 2022, it dropped to “moderate proficiency” with 541 points, placing it 34th. Last year, it fell to 43rd place globally and 34th in Europe, with 531 points. In 2024, it has dropped still further to 49th place globally with 524 points — the lowest of all Northern European countries included in the study.

Italy only comes in a few places above France in 46th with 528 points, while Spain sits at 36th with 538 points. They were surprisingly beaten by Georgia and Belarus, in 34th and 35th place globally.

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I Speed-Hiked a 19,700-Foot Peak in the Himalayas. Here’s What Went Wrong.

My friends and I chose the date of September 15, 2024, a day picked after scouring our weather apps and seeing that it promised sun and clear skies. Six of us were ready to tackle a peak 19,783 feet, or 6,030 meters, above sea level: UT Kangri II. Four of us would be attempting it for the first time, while two in our group had made the trek before.

UT Kangri II is a peak in the union territory of Ladakh in India. It’s a sparsely populated, high-altitude region on the western Himalayas, with desert-like terrain, deep valleys, and mountain passes. Of the hikable mountains in India for beginners, UT Kangri II itself is relatively non-technical, with an easy approach. But it’s still a grueling challenge, given the altitude – especially as our goal wasn’t just to reach the top, but to speed-hike it in a single day. We’d start before the sun rose and return before dusk, ideally.

Most people do UT Kangri II as a three-day trip, taking the first day to reach basecamp, the second day to summit and return to basecamp, and the third day to trek down from basecamp. There are usually a few days of acclimatization and training before that for travelers coming from outside northern India. The trailhead sits at a base elevation of more than 15,000 feet, and the summit is only 500 feet shorter than , the tallest peak in all of North America. Since we’d be making an elevation gain of 4,600 feet in one day, one thing was certain: we had to prepare well.

The road to Rumtse

Driving from Leh to Rumtse. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

Around 3 PM on September 14, we squeezed into Pranav’s two-door SUV, ready for the adventure about to unfold. From Leh, the largest city in Ladakh, we drove two hours to Rumtse, a village at 13,400ish feet above seat level. Our evening in Rumtse was spent sipping ginger-lemon-honey tea — something recommended to mitigate the effects of altitude — going on a short acclimatization walk, and debating the ideal time to start hiking in the morning. After dinner, we crammed into a single room where six mattresses were sat side by side. The space buzzed with our high-pitched chatter, which soon faded into muffled giggling as we tried to get some sleep.

Three alarms went off at 3 AM. I hadn’t slept much anyway, so I was relieved to get up. After futile attempts at emptying our bowels, we double-checked our gear: water, food, headlamps, hiking poles, traction devices, sunglasses, sunscreen, altimeters, warm layers, and cameras. There was no room for error. We piled back into the SUV, and made the roughly 40-minute drive to the trailhead.

Our first steps toward the summit

We left our homestay bright and early to be on the trail before sunrise. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

By 4:30 AM, we stood at the trailhead, at an elevation of 15,072 feet above sea level. The sky was mostly clear, stars sparkling like someone splashed diamonds scattered across it. We began hiking, keeping three key rules in mind: stay steady rather than fast, speak up if anyone felt breathless, and drink water periodically, even if we didn’t feel thirsty.

The first 2.5 miles were a breeze. A few clouds hovered over distant peaks, which concerned Deepak, who had made this exact trek before. But our pace was great, and spirits were high as dawn lit up the surrounding peaks in crisp, golden light. We all felt a boost of energy when the summit came into view, looking as majestic as we’d hoped. After two hours, we plopped down about half a mile before the basecamp used by overnight hikers, snacking on the aloo parathas (Indian flatbreads stuffed with spiced potato) our homestay owners from the night before had packed for us.

Soon, tiny, perfectly hexagonal snowflakes began falling, sending us back to a childlike sense of happiness. Unfortunately, we paid little attention to the peak we were to climb, which now stood against a backdrop of brooding clouds.

A struggle for breath – and confidence

The hiking started well, but the weather soon took a turn. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

By about 16,400 feet above sea level (about 5,000 meters), I found myself struggling, noticing that the combination of high altitude and low oxygen was catching up to me. “Take a set number of steps before resting, find a rhythm, and breathe as you go,” seasoned UT Kangri II hiker Deepak advised me.

While I appreciated the help, at that moment, I just wanted to be teleported to the summit, and questioned why I thought I could speed-hike to the summit when I’d never been this high. Before UT Kangri II, the the only place where I’d spent more than a few days at a high elevation was in India’s Spiti Valley, where I worked on a wildlife documentary at elevations of about 13,800 feet above sea level. And UT Kangri II was another 6,000 feet higher than that.

Somehow, I pushed through, and by 9:30 AM, we reached the final stretch of the trek: a 45-degree ascent along a steep glacier that gained 1,300 feet of elevation. It was the section for which we’d rented traction devices (also called crampons) back in Leh. Deepak ran us through the basics of using them: how to strap them to our boots, tucking in all the straps, and making sure they were tight, showing us how to move with flat feet to take short, wide steps.

Icy trails and close calls

The hike using traction devices across a glacier was the most challenging section of trail. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

As we started the glacier section, it was clear this would be the real test. The snowfall had created near-whiteout conditions, but Vibhu, who had summited several equally tall peaks in the days before our trip, reassured us we’d be fine if our gear and stamina held up. My nervous mind raced with “what ifs” as my extremities turned to popsicles, and I gave thanks for the warm layers and clothing I did have. I was hopeful that the clouds would clear and give us a glimpse of the forecasted sun.

Taking my first crampon-supported steps on the ice, I felt like I suddenly had superpowers, with my secure steps gripping the ice better than expected – and creating an oddly satisfying crunch with every step.

But it was cold, and the thin air was taxing on our lungs and leg muscles. Snow collected in my hair, at the nape of my neck, and on my eyelashes. We knew the summit was just under 1,000 feet away, but each fatiguing step made it feel even farther. We settled into a rhythm as a group: twenty steps, then a break. Repeat.

The group switched to hiking up an alternate route on a scree field, rather than continuing on the glacier. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

Minutes later, the routine was broken: Pranav lost his balance and slipped down the glacier. “Somebody stop me!” he yelled, reaching for anything to grab. Fortunately, his slide ended after about 150 feet, coming to a stop against a slightly raised area on the slope. He was unhurt but shaken, and so was I. It made me realize how dangerous one small mistake could cause – in his case, leaning too far forward while trying to sit, which shifted his weight downslope. Once he rejoined us, we decided to take off our crampons and veer off the icy section, opting to hike the rest of the way along a scree field (section of loose rocks and gravel), rather than continuing on the glacier.

But then, even off the ice, it happened again: I slipped on a loose rock, slamming my knee into another. The pain shot through me, but I tested if I could put some weight back on it, then kept going.

The final ascent

The author and her hiking companions at the top of UT Kangri II. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

We summited at 12:28 PM, after an eight-hour hike and elevation gain of 4,600 feet, all in the worst weather possible. At the top, the six of us hugged, unable to grasp what we’d just achieved to get there. I felt strong – even invincible. I joked about how, just a month ago, I’d been so depressed I almost canceled this trip. But standing on the summit of UT Kangri II, I couldn’t understand how I’d ever considered scrapping it. The world felt wide open and full of possibilities, and I was right there in the center of it.

Soon, the snowfall eased. I was crying, overwhelmed with a mix of pain, pride, euphoria, and disbelief. Looking up, I saw two of my crewmates crying too, and it hit me how adventures like these really show us who we are. There’s simply no room for masking. It’s both humbling and freeing, and partly why I enjoy extreme adventures. Perhaps it’s my version of the current viral trend of “rawdogging” travel.

We took one mandatory group picture, and tied prayer flags on the peak. But before long, blizzard-like conditions started to once again take hold, and Pranav began showing signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness, or altitude sickness), such as a pounding headache and dizziness. We started descending immediately.

The UT Kangri II descent

Clear skies returned by the end of our hike. Photo: Tarang Mohnot

For the next three hours, the snowfall was relentless. It was black and white as far as the eye could see. Some might say it resembled Iceland or Finland, but to me, it looked unmistakably like what I expect in the far-north parts of India, especially Ladakh: raw, barren, chilling. My lips were chapped and my knees in excruciating pain, but occasionally, moments of awe still found their way through – like when I stopped to pee and giggled at the steam rising off the cold, snowy rocks. Or when the wind whipped up tiny snow tornadoes.

By the time we reached basecamp, the weather had cleared. Blue skies dominated, and the sunshine warmed our cold, weary bodies. The surrounding mountains came back into view, showing peaks dusted with fresh snow. Pranav’s AMS symptoms improved, and we finally had an easy stretch of trail.

I slipped on my headphones, letting Led Zeppelin power my pace. Every so often, I’d glance back at the summit, still amazed at how far we’d come. I’d like to believe this difficult climb was meant to reveal to me my own strength, but maybe that’s just me trying to make sense of the whirlwind of a day. By 6 PM, we were back to where we started. It had been just over 14 hours, but it felt like a whole month had passed.

What I’d do differently

The writer spent plenty of time before the trek in high-elevation Leh, India. Photo: Vladimir Zhoga/Shutterstock

I knew this would be a day I’d write about endlessly in my journals, and in my professional work as a writer. Despite the tough conditions, I’m proud of how we handled things, and supported each other as a team. That said, we definitely should’ve carried ice axes, which could have helped with self-arrest on the glacier. And I wish we had paid more attention to the weather — not necessarily because we would have turned around, but because the snow and cold took us a bit by surprise, given the forecast.

If you’re ever planning a hike in the Himalayas, especially above 10,000 feet, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

Respect the mountains (and their ability to challenge even the best-laid plans). Always prepare for the worst-case scenario. For example, I packed a pair of bottom thermals (a base layer), despite being convinced I wouldn’t need them. But when the snow came, I was glad I had them.Know your limits. There’s a fine line between pushing yourself and pushing yourself too far. I’ve spent significant time living and hiking at high altitudes, so attempting UT Kangri II as a speed hike wasn’t too far out of my comfort zone.Acclimatize well. This can’t be overstated. At the time of the trek, I’d already spent 20 days in Ladakh, and we slept in Rumtse at more than 13,000 feet above sea level. Bring the right medications (asking your doctor to prescribe Diamox may be a good idea), and drink plenty of water. If you experience symptoms like dizziness or confusion, descend immediately.Go with a team you trust. While we were self-guided, two of our team members had extensive mountaineering experience. If it’s your first time, always hike with a local guide.Check the weatherFrequently. It’s ironic I say this after our experience, but checking the weather apps is still wise. Yes, the mountains can surprise you, but there are plenty of times I’ve been thankful I checked in advance. More like thisArt + Architecture7 Amazing Monasteries to Check Out in Ladakh, India

This Multifunctional Pack Will Last You a Lifetime, and Is Currently 20% Off

Peak Design has achieved something great with the Travel Backpack 45L. The carry-on is everything I’ve ever wanted from a multifunctional pack: It’s handsome as hell, expandable and collapsible, and the pockets actually fit a reasonably sized water bottle. It also comes with a lifetime warranty. Does that mean I’m at the end of the long road of testing carry-on packs? Perhaps.

We hope you love the Peak Design Travel Backpack we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to purchase. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

The Peak Design Travel Backpack can replace cumbersome camera bags, but even if you’re not a gear-laden traveler, it’s a fantastic general go-to bag for getaways.

It’s been called “the unicorn bag” by other reviewers, and that’s not a stretch. The exceptional design and construction is a fit for many types of excursions, from hiking, to photography sessions, to a carry-on and a 35-liter daypack. It’s the kind of backpack you’ll receive a look of admiration from another owner, much like you get when you pass a fellow EV driver on the road..

Buy now for 20% off

There are three colorways to choose from: black on black, sage, and my personal favorite, coyote. It’s constructed from durable 400D nylon canvas, with a reinforced 900D nylon canvas base to enhance abrasion resistance. The base material offers a slightly rubberized texture. While many similar bags opt for ballistic nylon, Peak Design’s intentional choice of canvas is smart. It feels nice to touch, and it’s water resistant (plus, there’s a DWR-coated polyurethane liner to help give an extra layer of protection).

What I love the most about this pack is how comfortable and innovative the harness system is. The straps are hideable, so you can carry the pack like a duffle in one hand. But if you want to strap on in, you’re in for a treat.

Photo: Peak Design

Peak Deisgn’s signature rotating high-density foam padded straps are a lifesaver when you’re rushing through an airport and you need to quickly access valuables from the pack by swinging it around to your side. To balance out a heavy load, a detachable sternum strap can be stored vertically along the shoulder strap or as a small loop when not in use. The hip belt is expertly padded, and again, you can stow this away when you don’t need it. Two external pockets are also perfectly sized and even fit a YETI Rambler flask, which never leaves my side. Many other zippered pockets help add to the feeling that the team at Peak Design sat around a whiteboard and brainstormed everything a traveler (every type of traveler) would want from a pack, and then delivered.

Photo: Peak Design

You can compress this pack down or extend it out. External compression zippers allow for additional storage. These are easy to use, and within seconds you can transform it from a day pack into a sturdy piece of luggage. You can also compress towards the top of the pack with a button system. There’s so much you can do with the external features of the pack to tailor it to what you need that it’s worth watching Peak Design’s set-up and tips video.

The inside has more well-thought-out storage. At the top, a quick-access pocket with stretchy mesh is ideal for airport essentials. The front panel has a smart organizational system. The upper section features a rubberized mesh pocket that provides visibility and easy access to contents. This compartment has multiple smaller pockets for pens, pencils, chargers, and adapters. These pockets can be flattened when unused, maximizing the bag’s overall space.

Photo: Peak Design

The opposite side of the compartment mirrors this layout, with a half-mesh pocket and a liner pocket. This compartment has dual-sided accessibility. Items can be accessed from both the main compartment and the front panel, and the removable separator can be stored at the bottom of the main compartment, transforming the bag into a spacious duffel.

There’s no getting around the fact that Peak Design packs are pricey. But, it’s currently reduced from $319.95 to $255.96 for coyote, $239.96 for sage and the same 20 percent off for black. If you’re in the market for a great all-rounder, you’ll find it hard to get anything as multifunctional as this for the price point. Keep in mind that you get a lifetime guarantee, so choose your color wisely, as this pack will likely become your companion for years to come.

Buy now for 20% offMore like thisTravel12 Black Friday Luggage Deals Every Jet-Setter Will Love

This Fairytale Village in the Swiss Alps Is Perfect for Outdoor Adventure, Food Crawls, and Local Wine

As I sipped my penicillin cocktail beneath the weight of a fleece blanket, one of Europe’s tallest snow-capped mountains staring back at me, it immediately clicked: this is what people come to the Swiss Alps for — well, my kind of people at least. While many visitors pack their bags destined for the slopes, for someone as anti-winter sport as I am, sipping belly-warming cocktails against one of the planet’s most stunning backdrops is certainly something I can get behind.

Photo: Vicki Denig

Grindelwald is one of Switzerland’s tiny, fairytale-like villages, and is located in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland. Many come to take on the heights of the Jungfrau, deemed the “Top of Europe,” or take on other forms of daring outdoor escapades. I, however, was drawn to the village for its food and beverage scene, which flies under the radar compared to the reputation the region has built up around outdoor adventure.

Photos: Vicki Denig

In addition to the standard savory delights that Switzerland is known for — many of which incorporate copious amounts of gooey cheese — there’s another side to Switzerland’s gastronomy scene, one focused on precision, technique, and locally-sourced ingredients. This has allowed for a diverse drinking culture. From small-production wines crafted in cool-climate vineyard sites to locally-produced brandies and liqueurs distilled from fresh fruit, and Grindelwald is a great home base for diving into the best Switzerland has to offer.

Where to eat and drink in Grindelwald

Hop in a fondue gondola at Hotel Belvedere

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Starting with the basics is always a good idea, especially when it comes in the form of melted cheese stored in a stationary vintage cable car. Located just outside the Hotel Belvedere, these nostalgic gondolas offer the perfect backdrop for enjoying fondue al fresco, snow-capped mountain views included. Enjoy your cheese the classic way (plain) or add some truffle for a boost of flavor. Spring for the two-person tasting package, which includes a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne. Important note before going: Dress in layers! Although the gondola doors close, their outdoor location makes it susceptible to getting a bit chilly.

Hotel Belvedere: Dorfstrasse 53, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Indulge in a local chef’s choice tasting menu at Hotel Fiescherblick

Photo: Vicki Denig

Spearheaded by brothers Matthias and Lars Michel, Hotel Fiescherblick is a piece of Grindelwald history. Opened in December 2022, the pair represent the fifth-generation of hoteliers in their family (their parents own the Gletschergarten just next door), and bring a myriad of experience to the table, both figuratively and literally. The boutique hotel’s restaurant offers one of the most impressive tasting menus in town, and is inspired by the pair’s culinary travels through Scandinavia and Japan. The dynamic kitchen team is made up of young (sub-30) chefs passionate for high-quality produce and locally-sourced ingredients, which they use to craft the joint’s seasonally rotating four, five, and six-course Chef’s Choice menu. The wine pairing is optional, though definitely recommended.

Hotel Fiescherblick: Dorfstrasse 203, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Enjoy the village’s best wine cellar (local picks included) at GLACIER

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This is the place for wine lovers to dive into the world of Swiss wine. In addition to the thoughtful five- and seven-course tasting menus proposed by chef Paul Cabayé (á la carte offerings are also available), one of the most impressive highlights at GLACIER is its show-stopping wine list. The 42-page list features more than 450 references with an emphasis on Swiss and French wine, with more than 150 selections available by the glass at all times. As the team states, the restaurant’s focus on Swiss wines “showcases the heritage and exceptional craftsmanship of winemakers in the region” — which, above all, come to life alongside Cabayé’s delectable dishes. Best of all, groups of up to 16 people can book a private wine experience in the restaurant’s cellar, which is over 320 years old.

GLACIER: Endweg 55, 3818 Grindelwald Switzerland

Caffeinate with a view at EigerBean Roastery

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Located on the main street (Dorfstrasse) in Grindelwald village, EigerBean offers a delightful ambiance for a caffeine-fueled pick me up. As the name implies, the roastery is known for coffee and coffee-based beverages (the cappuccino is simply unmissable), though other coffee shop favorites (tea, hot chocolate, etc.) are also available. Enjoy a brew on site, then grab a bag of beans to go to recreate the moment at home.

EigerBean Roastery: Dorfstrasse 195, 3818 Grindelwald, Switzerland

Enjoy a variety of local brandies and liqueurs at The Seven Spirits Bar

Photo: Vicki Denig

Tucked away in the Bergwelt Hotel, The Seven Spirits Bar offers one of the best, not the best, selections of locally produced libations. In addition to a rotating list of seasonal craft cocktails, the bar features a handful of Swiss beers and whiskies, along with a full-page offering of local brandies and liqueurs. Whether cherry, apricot, or plum is what you’re after, this impressive lineup will likely be able to fit your preference. Grab a seat by the fire and let the talented bar staff lead the way.

The Seven Spirits Bar: Bergwelt Grindelwald – Alpine Design Resort Bergwelt 4 3818 Grindelwald

What to do in Grindelwald

Visit Jungfraujoch, AKA the “Top of Europe”

Photo: AaronChenPS2/Shutterstock

No trip to Grindelwald would be complete without a visit to Jungfraujoch. Trekking to one of the highest points in the world has never been easier thanks to the newly launched Eiger Express. Opened in December 2020, this tricable car allows visitors to access the Top of Europe directly from the newly opened Grindelwald Terminal in just 15 minutes (47 minutes quicker than before). Upon reaching the summit, take in the icy air and let the snow crunch beneath your boots at altitudes of over 11,000 feet above sea level.

Photo: Vicki Denig

Tour the resident Ice Palace in winter featuring a handful of sculptures, enjoy a multimedia journey through the history of the mountain, and be sure to grab some delectable Swiss chocolates at the highest Lindt store in the world.

Drive a Mario Kart-esque sled down the mountain

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Nintendo 64 fans, get ready for a dream come true. Inspired by the Swiss love of sledding, the First Mountain Cart allows adventure seekers to steer down Grindelwald’s main mountain, all against a stunning Alpine backdrop. Crafted in a hybrid go-kart/sled design, the carts are able to take on a variety of surfaces, including grass and gravel, which are varied and prevalent across the course’s 1.8-mile duration. Curious adventurers can equally partake in a harnessed hover on an 800-meter long steel cable from First to Schreckfeld via First Flyer, or a belly-down, Superman-inspired soar via the First Glider, which has been known to hit speeds of over 50 miles per hour.

Hike to Lake Bachalp via First

Photo: Vicki Denig

Grab your Jungfrau Travel Pass and hop the cable car to First mountain, which is the access point to a number of scenic hikes and outdoor activities. Upon exiting the terminal, take in the breathtaking views from the lift station’s summit, then embark on a mountainside journey to Bachalpsee, otherwise known as Lake Bachalp.

Photo: Vicki DenigPhoto: Vicki Denig

Deemed the blue jewel of the Bernese Alps, this medium-intensity hike takes around two hours roundtrip, and although certain points are relatively steep, the path is well developed and easy to traverse. Be sure to bring enough water (and possibly a snack for fuel). Upon completing the hike and returning to the cable car station, treat yourself to a First coffee (similar to an Irish coffee, but with a Swiss twist) at the Berggasthaus First mountain inn, located in the terminal.

Where to Stay

We hope you love the stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a room.

Bergwelt Grindelwald

Photo: Vicki Denig

For those seeking a harmonious melange of sleek Alpine design meets snug chalet vibes, look no further than the Bergwelt Grindelwald. Home to 90 rooms and suites, this warming hotel offers stunning 360-degree mountain views, as well as a communal fireplace, well-stocked bar, gym, and the unmissable Fire & Ice spa. Guests receive complimentary access to the spa’s sauna and outdoor jacuzzi (reservation required), with a variety of treatments available for an additional cost. Warm up by the fire with a local libation in hand (the bar stocks an impressive amount of Swiss fruit liqueurs and distillates) and settle in.

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Boutique Hotel Glacier

@epic.stays Wake up to breathtaking mountain views at Hotel Glacier in #Grindelwald @Joanna | Travel Creator #switzerlandtravel #luxuryhotel #switzerland #creatorsearchinsights ♬ Good Days – Yenibi

Known for its stunning views of Eiger North Face, this four-star boutique hotel offers 28 cozy rooms, each equipped with a plush king-size bed, Apple TV, Nespresso machine, and a Marshall Bluetooth speaker for lighting up your go-to chill playlist. South-facing rooms boast direct views of the snow-capped Eiger Mountain — with a private outdoor hot tub as the cherry on top. The hotel is also home to a bottom-floor spa equipped with a log-lined sauna and hammam, as well as an award-winning ground floor restaurant that beautifully meshes classic Swiss cuisine with a signature French twist, courtesy of chef Paul Cabayé.

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