Matador Network's Blog, page 634

June 15, 2021

7 underrated Smithsonian museums, galleries, and gardens you should visit in DC

In Washington, DC, the Smithsonian Institution runs a large network of world-class museums. The network owes its existence to James Smithson, a British scientist who died in 1829 and left his fortune to the capital of the young American republic.

What started as one man’s investment has turned into one of the most renowned museums and research institutions in the world. Smithson never visited Washington or the United States (at least not until after his death — his remains lie on Smithsonian grounds today). Still, his impact on the country has been felt by countless people.

Many of the Smithsonian’s museums are justifiably famous, while others are unfairly obscure to the average tourist. Out of the Smithsonian’s 19 total museums and galleries (as well as a zoo), these seven Smithsonian sites warrant more attention on your next visit to the nation’s capital.

Note from the editor: For the Smithsonian’s indoor spaces, free timed-entry passes are required and must be reserved no more than 30 days in advance.

1. Smithsonian Gardenssmithsonian-gardens-facebook, Smithsonian museums

Photo: Smithsonian Gardens/Facebook

Summertime in Washington brings the capital’s green spaces to full bloom, and nowhere is this more true than in the Smithsonian Gardens. The Smithsonian Gardens is a 13-site group of outdoor zones for domestic and exotic plant life. Standout locations include the Ripley Garden, with its serpentine brick walkways and wide variety of plants; the Haupt Garden, which has large magnolia trees that are particularly beautiful in the early spring; and the Landscape of the National Museum of African American History and Culture, where the plants were chosen to symbolize optimism, resiliency, and strength.

All of the Smithsonian Gardens are free to visit and remain open from dawn to dusk every day of the year except December 25. Visit in the morning to escape DC’s infamous summer heat and the tourist crowds. Most of the gardens lie along the National Mall, the city’s largest park. No timed-entry passes are required for the gardens and other outdoor spaces.

Where: The is Ripley Garden is at 850 Jefferson Drive Southwest, Washington, DC; the Haupt Garden is at Independence Avenue SW and L’Enfant Plaza SW, Washington, DC; and the landscape of the National Museum of the African American is at 1400 Constitution Ave NW, Washington, DC 20560.

2. Hirshhorn Sculpture GardenWashington,Dc,,Usa,-,August,5th,2017,-sphere,No.,6, Smithsonian museums

Photo: BrianPIrwin/Shutterstock

Of all the Smithsonian garden spaces in the capital, the Hirshhorn Sculpture Garden deserves special mention. Set in a rectangular space 14 feet below ground level, the space redefines the sunken garden concept for contemporary enjoyment. Here, you’ll find priceless works by Auguste Rodin and Alberto Giacometti, as well as Yoko Ono’s wish tree.

The garden is open daily from 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM.

Where: Jefferson Drive and 7th Street SW, Washington, DC 20591

3. Anacostia Community Museumanacostia-community-museum-smithsonian-facebook, Smithsonian museums

Photo: Smithsonian’s Anacostia Community Museum/Facebook

The Anacostia Community Museum is located in the historically Black neighborhood by the same name. On its website, the museum states that its mission is to “preserve communities’ memories, struggles, and successes,” by offering events and other opportunities where “diverse voices and cultures can be heard.”

The Anacostia Community Museum’s exhibits center around themes like food justice, changing neighborhoods, and the work of prominent Black artists during the civil rights movement.

The museum will offer free admission and free parking starting on August 6, 2021, and welcomes visitors Tuesday through Sunday from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM. No timed-entry passes will be required.

Where: 1901 Fort Place, SE, Washington, DC

4. National Museum of the American Indiannational-museum-of-american-indian-facebook,Smithsonian museums

Photo: Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian/Facebook

Offering one of the most exhaustive collections of Indigenous art, media, objects, and photographs — not just in the US, but in the world — the National Museum of the American Indian is a must-visit to appreciate the past and present of Indigenous peoples. The site displays artifacts from the full breadth of inhabited lands in the Western Hemisphere, from the Arctic Circle to the tip of South America.

Seek out the exhibit “Nation to Nation: Treaties Between the United States and American Indian Nations” which runs until January 2025. It covers a history of political treaties that many Americans never learn. For those who can’t make the trip in-person, the museum has online educational content like its Virtual Field Trips series and American Indian magazine.

The National Museum of the American Indian is open from Wednesday through Sunday, from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM. Timed-entry passes are available here.

Where: Fourth Street & Independence Ave., S.W., Washington, DC 20560

5. Renwick GalleryWashington,,Dc,,Usa,-,September,10,2017,:,Renwick,Gallery,Of, Smithsonian museums

Photo: V_E/Shutterstock

This exhibit space, a part of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, is devoted to modern decorative and craft arts. Easily accessible by public transportation, and a stone’s throw from the White House, the Renwick Gallery promises an engaging visit and a feel for what’s happening in contemporary art right now.

Current exhibits include art forms of various kinds, namely fiber, mosaic, glass, and assorted metals — all designed to provoke and stimulate notions of art today.

Other Renwick programs run a wide gamut, from lectures and music, to events for kids and a “Yoga at the Museum” class.

The museum is currently open Wednesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM. Guided tours are suspended due to public health concerns. Timed-entry passes are available here.

Where: Pennsylvania Avenue at 17th Street NW, Washington, DC 20006

6. National Portrait Gallerynational-portrait-gallery-facebook, Smithsonian museums

Photo: National Portrait Gallery/Facebook

Located in Washington’s historic Chinatown neighborhood, the National Portrait Gallery exists so that visitors can “experience portraiture beyond the frame.” The space has the only complete set of presidential portraits in the US outside of the White House (a mere eight blocks away). It’s just one facet of a larger collection of more than 15,000 works. The space has evolved from its former paintings-only policy to show portraits in photography, sculpture, and video.

The National Portrait Gallery is open, and a pass (available here) includes access to the Smithsonian American Art Museum, which operates in the same building. The Gallery’s visiting hours are Wednesday through Sunday, 11:30 AM to 7:00 PM.

Where: 8th and G Streets NW, Washington, DC 20001

7. Smithsonian Institution BuildingWashington,,Usa,-,June,14,,2013:,People,Visit,The,Smithsonian, Smithsonian museum

Photo: Tupungato/Shutterstock

It’s easy to understand why the Smithsonian Institution Building is affectionately called The Castle by Washingtonians. With its red stone façade and soaring turrets, the landmark on the National Mall has long delighted children and adults alike. Completed in 1855, the building houses the Smithsonian Visitor Center, the nerve center for the Smithsonian network. The site offers guidance on how to see and enjoy Washington, whether inside or outside the Smithsonian system of public spaces.

If you need a break from on-your-feet sightseeing — or need to cool off from the DC summer — the Castle Café has refreshments. For a different kind of chill, seek out the final resting place of James Smithson, founder of the Smithsonian organization, near the building’s north entrance.

The building reopens on July 30, 2021, and will be open daily between 8:30 AM and 5:30 PM. Admission will be free. Timed-entry passes will be available for reservation about one week before reopening.

Where: 1000 Jefferson Drive, SW, Washington, DC

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Published on June 15, 2021 11:00

Here’s how to get the key to this Michelin-starred restaurant hidden in a NYC hotel room

New York is home to many quirky locations, but no location tops this secret restaurant hidden within the Langham Hotel. If you’re looking for a top-notch eatery with a side of mystery, then this Michelin-starred restaurant is just the spot.

Located in New York on Fifth Avenue, the Langham Hotel is home to a secret room restaurant called the Sky Terrace.

Insert lead here.

Sky Terrace is a spin-off of the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Ai Fiori. Sky Terrace is located on the 11th floor behind door number 1101. The way to get to this hidden restaurant is to check-in at the hotel’s restaurant on the second floor. You’ll then receive a key that takes you to the 11th floor. Once you’re there, use the key to open door 1101.

Whether you’re a hotel guest or not, anyone is welcome to enjoy Sky Terrace’s menu and views of New York City’s skyline.

“Just in time for New York City to re-open as a tourism destination, the Sky Terrace is a unique experience available to both hotel guests and local diners that showcases two of the best features of our hotel–our spacious guest rooms and our unparalleled city views,” said Richard Bussiere, the hotel’s managing director, to Travel & Leisure.

To book a reservation at Sky Terrace, visit its website.

More like thisRestaurants + Bars5 must-try restaurants in New York City’s Chinatown, according to chef Calvin Eng

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Published on June 15, 2021 10:15

7 places where you can admire towering sequoias in Europe

Craning beneath a grove of giant sequoias may be the only way to comprehend the magnitude of their size. They’re the most massive trees on Earth, ranking not only among the tallest but also out-measuring the thickest. Those lucky enough to have been awed by the redwood species in person likely glimpsed them on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, where the only native giant sequoias grow today. California is not the only place to admire the species, however. Much as they grew natively across the Northern Hemisphere millions of years ago, giant sequoias have been cultivated in countries around the world since the mid-19th century. Thousands of these cultivars exist across Europe. From nature reserves to grand estates, the United Kingdom to Romania, here are seven places to track down the tallest, widest, and oldest giant sequoias in Europe on your next trip to the Old Continent.

1. Kew Gardens, London, EnglandGiant-sequoias-in-Europe-Kew-Gardens-London,Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Kew Gardens/Facebook

The first giant sequoia seeds arrived in England in 1853, first as a shipment to a British horticulturist from his California-based son and later in the custody of William Lobb, a plant collector for a nursery near Exeter who learned of the impressive species while visiting San Francisco. The nursery quickly found a market for the saplings that Lobb’s collections produced among the British elite. As a result, giant sequoias can be found on several estates across the country. Many, including Killerton, Sheffield Park, and Penrhyn Castle, are managed by the National Trust. Travelers can also see giant sequoias dating to the 1860s in southwest London at the Redwood Grove in the UNESCO-listed Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

2. La Granja de San Ildefonso, SpainLarge,Giant,Sequoia,In,The,Garden,Of,La,Granja,Segovia, Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Jose Miguel Sanchez/Shutterstock

Roughly an hour northwest of Madrid in the town of San Ildefonso is an 18th-century, Versailles-style palace known as La Granja where Spanish monarchs used to summer. Outside the palace entrance is a pair of giant sequoias fittingly dubbed El Rey and La Raina, or “The King” and “The Queen.” Both grand botanical sentinels rise more than 100 feet, with El Rey standing taller than La Reina ever since the latter was struck by lightning in the 1990s.

3. Vosges Mountains, FranceGiant,Seqoia,Of,Fappelbronn,Planted,In,1896,In,A,Vosges, Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Images01/Shutterstock

Outside of the United States, the tallest giant sequoia in the world lives in the state forest of Ribeauvillé, France, a commune at the base of the Vosges Mountains. It was planted in 1856 and clocked in at approximately 190 feet when it was measured in 2014. There are giant sequoias elsewhere in the range, as well, including near the towns of Vittel and Saint-Dié in the Vosges department and in the Arboretum de la Hutte in Ourche Valley.

4. Kaldenkirchen Sequoia Farm, GermanyGiant-sequoias-in-Europe-Kaldenkirchen-Sequoia-Farm-Germany,Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Sequoiafarm/Facebook

An arboretum and biological institute, the Kaldenkirchen Sequoia Farm is tucked away in the Kaldenkirchen Grenzwalk forest near the city of Nettetal in Germany’s Lower Rhine region. It was established in the mid-20th century by a pair of dendrologists who were eager to see if giant sequoias, which existed in Germany millennia ago, could thrive in the forest. They sourced seeds from Sequoia National Forest in California and tended 1,500 seedlings, alongside species such as the coast and dawn redwoods. Today, the sequoia farm is a popular attraction in the Maas-Schwalm-Nette nature reserve with more than 400 tree species on display.

5. Benmore Botanic Garden, ScotlandGiant-sequoias-in-Europe-Benmore-Botanic-Garden-Scotland,Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh/Facebook

The Benmore Botanic Garden in Argyll and Bute, Scotland, has an entire section dedicated to giant sequoias: Redwood Avenue. The 150-year-old trees were planted in 1863 shortly after an American named James Patrick bought the Benmore Estate and started working on the garden. Now, giant sequoias are among the first flora visitors see upon entering the site, which is managed by the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.

6. Sequoia Forest Reservation, RomaniaPopular,Tourist,Destination,-,Old,Sequoia,Tree,In,The,Rogojel, Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Andrew Mayovskyy/Shutterstock

There are several giant sequoias in Romania, from the outskirts of Bucharest to Caraș-Severin near the Serbian border. Perhaps the most famous is located at the foot of the Vlădeasa Massif in Transylvania’s Carpathian Mountains near the villages of Rogojel and Săcuieu in Cluj County. It’s unclear how exactly the giant sequoia came to grow here: The most popular account traces it back to a Hungarian baron who introduced a variety of rare trees to the region while another attributes it to a landowner in the early 20th century. Other giant sequoias worth noting in Romania include a trio of trees in the city of Oradea and single specimens in the town of Baile Herculane in Cernei Valley and the village of Măderat in Arad County.

7. Jardin Anglais, Geneva, SwitzerlandTrunks,Of,Giant,Sequoias,Rising,To,The,Sky,,In,A, Giant sequoias in Europe

Photo: Benoit Bruchez/Shutterstock

Geneva’s Jardin Anglais holds one of its most popular attractions: the iconic flower clock. Arguably just as impressive is the garden’s giant sequoia. It’s not the only specimen in Geneva, however. Some estimates say there are as many as 1,000 sequoias around the city and its namesake lake today. Elsewhere in Switzerland, a giant sequoia rises over Oberrohrdorf’s city center and gets decorated with thousands of lights every Christmas, while others have been reported in Zurich and the municipalities of Kreuzlingen, Winterthur, and Nyon.

More like thisParks + Wilderness21 spectacular and unique trees and forests around the world

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Published on June 15, 2021 09:30

Outdoor guide: Sevierville, TN

Tagged Outdoor Outdoor adventure guide to Sevierville, TN

By: Susan Lanier-Graham

Soaring through the airHitting the waterExploring the mountainsGetting activePhoto: Visit Sevierville#wedge-0 { background-image: url('https://cdn1.matadornetwork.com/blogs...') }@media(min-width:560px){ #wedge-0 { background-image: url('https://cdn1.matadornetwork.com/blogs...') } }@media(min-width:1200px){ #wedge-0 { background-image: url('https://cdn1.matadornetwork.com/blogs...') } }

Wander just beyond the edges of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, following the Little Pigeon River north, and you’ll quickly find yourself in Sevierville, Tennessee. That right there should tell you everything you need to know. The area holds so many idyllic outdoor scenes — lush green valleys, rolling hillsides, mountain forests filled with trails, rivers, and lakes — along with all the amenities you need to refuel between amazing adventures.

Less than 30 minutes from both Knoxville and the national park, Sevierville is a quick hop south of I-40 and less than a day’s drive from almost anywhere along the Eastern Seaboard or from the Southern US. Once you’re here, you can get on the water, take to the air, explore the mountains, or just burn some of that cooped-up pandemic energy. Here’s what you can look forward to in Sevierville’s great outdoors.

This guide is proudly produced in partnership with Visit Sevierville. Soaring through the airPhoto: Sky High Air Tours / Visit Sevierville

One of the world’s biodiverse hotspots, the lush blue-green canopy of the Smokies is unlike any other in the country. Here are some of the best ways to explore these thick, wildlife-rich forests and ancient, intricately weathered mountains — from above.

Helicopter touring over the Smokies

With Scenic Helicopter Tours, you’ll fly over the national park...

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Helicopter touring over the Smokies

Try taking off in a helicopter and dipping low over the Great Smoky Mountains and not feeling a rush. With Scenic Helicopter Tours, you’ll fly over the national park, up and down nearby mountains and valleys, across rivers and lakes, and over the area’s most recognizable spots. You’ll hear about local history and lore from your pilot and perhaps even spot one of the many black bears that roam the area.

Tip: If you want a specialized adventure, you can book a night tour or charter a private ride. Tours accommodate up to six people. 

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville


Soaring over Sevierville in a historic biplane

Surely you’ve imagined what it would be like to soar over mountains...

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Soaring over Sevierville in a historic biplane

Surely you’ve imagined what it would be like to soar over mountains, forests, and rivers...well, you’ll get a taste of that feeling when you climb aboard Sky High Air Tours’ open-cockpit 1927 biplane. When you put on your aviator helmet and goggles and take off from the Gatlinburg Pigeon Forge Airport, you can also imagine the excitement those barnstormers of yesteryear must have experienced.

Note: Flights are a quick eight, 15, or 30 minutes. 

 

Photo: Sky High Air Tours / Visit Sevierville


Ziplining through the canopy

To experience that thick forest canopy up close, try a zipline tour...

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Ziplining through the canopy

To experience that thick forest canopy up close, head out to Foxfire Mountain Adventure Park for a zipline adventure. Their Waterfall Canopy Tour allows you to go slow and steady—well, slow and steady for a zipline—and take it all in. 

If you prefer speed, check out the Goliath Zip Line, the highest, fastest, and longest in the Smokies. You’ll travel at speeds exceeding 55mph as you traverse five lines, views of Foxfire Valley and the Smokies zipping past as you fly above the Little Pigeon River. 

Tip: While you’re here, leave time to cross the Swinging Bridge to Prosperity Mountain—looking down onto Foxfire Gorge, it’s one of the longest swinging bridges in the country.

 

Photo: RossHelen/Shutterstock


Hitting the waterPhoto: Visit Sevierville

There are numerous opportunities to get on — or in — the water in Sevierville. Between bubbling mountain streams, placid lakes, tumbling rivers, and one of the country’s best waterparks, the right volume of water fun lies somewhere just beyond your eastern-Tennessee doorstep.

Riding the watercoasters

Raft rides. Slide effects. Launch capsules. Body slides. Race tracks...

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Riding the watercoasters

Spread across 50 acres, Soaky Mountain Waterpark offers every kind of water thrill you can think of: Tube rides. Raft rides. Slide effects. Launch capsules. Body slides. Race tracks. Explosion turns. Tube slides. Surf systems. Whitewater rapids. Wave pools—you get it. 

Of course, you can also simply relax on an in-water recliner at the Coyote Springs pool while the kids go nuts. Lunch is easy with Mexican takeout from Tacolicious and sweet treats from Soaky Shake Shoppe. 

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville


Gone fishin’

Beautiful rivers and quiet streams surround Sevierville...

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Gone fishin’

In stark contrast to the waterpark, beautiful rivers and quiet streams surround Sevierville, making for great opportunities for anglers (and nature-lovers). Even if you’ve never tried fly fishing—or fishing at all—it’s therapeutic to stand with nature, casting a line, watching the water. No one said you have to catch anything. (No one will be around to know!)

Douglas Lake—northeast of Sevierville—is a solid option, with 555 miles of shoreline and massive populations of black bass, largemouth bass, and crappie. For an unforgettable experience fishing in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, book a guided tour with Smoky Mountain Angler

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville


Whitewater rafting the Pigeon River

The super-scenic Pigeon River provides a smorgasbord of rafting experiences...

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Whitewater rafting the Pigeon River

The super-scenic Pigeon River provides a smorgasbord of rafting experiences. For those who want to navigate Class III and Class IV rapids, there’s the Upper Pigeon River; for those who prefer a casual float through the hills, look to the lower section. Or heck, check out both!

There are a number of outfitters offering whitewater (and not-so-whitewater) rafting along the river, to and through its cool swimming holes, rapids, and gorges. Most rafting trips will start in Hartford, some 30 miles southeast of Sevierville. More peaceful floats, ideal for those with little ones, take place on the Little River and begin in Townsend, about 25 miles southwest of town.

 

Photo: Ammit Jack/Shutterstock


Exploring the mountainsPhoto: Anthony Heflin/ShutterstockSevierville sits in a valley at the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains, so named for the pearlescent fog that often hangs over the range. While the national park contains more than half a million acres of pristine lands, wildlife hangouts, and stunning photo ops, look to the miles of scenic terrain and trails outside the park for lesser-trafficked mountain adventures. Taking a backroads ATV tour

Now it's time to explore off the pavement, cables, and roads most traveled...

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Taking a backroads ATV tour

Now it’s time to explore off the pavement, cables, and roads most traveled. While famous for its ziplines, Foxfire Mountain Adventure Park also runs ATV tours for those who prefer to stay on the ground but still get that off-grid feeling. Hop in an ATV and let your guide regale you with local Appalachian tales and facts about the area—if you can take your attention off the adventure, that is.

 

Photo: FS STock/Shutterstock


Horseback riding through the forest

Sometimes a more meditative adventure is the way to go...

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Horseback riding through the forest

Sometimes a more meditative, silent adventure—minus the clip-clopping—is the way to go. Saddle up at Five Oaks Riding Stables for a leisurely 3.5-mile trail ride, the entire family spending an hour on horseback. You’ll amble along under the trees, soaking up those beautiful mountain views, practicing your “woah!” skills when you want to stop and snap a photo. The path is shady too, making this outing ideal for hot summer days (and for leaf-peeping in autumn!).

Tip: If you have little ones, Five Oaks also offers tandem rides, with the kiddo just in front of you (best seat in the house, really).

 

Photo: nullplus/Shutterstock


Hiking around Sevierville

Great Smoky Mountains National Park stretches to the south of Sevierville...

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Hiking around Sevierville

Great Smoky Mountains National Park stretches between Tennessee and North Carolina to the south of Sevierville. There are about 800 miles of maintained trails inside the park, not including 70 miles of the Appalachian Trail.

This is consistently one of the most popular national parks in the country, so feel free to expect world-class everything. There are great hikes for all levels, including up to the tower at Clingmans Dome, up Mount Le Conte, or to Gregory Bald via the Gregory Ridge Trail. 

If you prefer a short, self-guided nature walk, the park has plenty of those as well. The popular Cades Cove Nature Trail is gorgeous each spring with dogwoods in bloom, a flat and easy two-mile loop coming in at less than two hours. Or check out the Cataract Falls Trail behind the Sugarlands Visitor Center—this easy one-mile track passes some nice bridges and streams and takes you right to the 25-foot-tall Cataract Falls.

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville


Getting activePhoto: Kyle T Perry/ShutterstockThere’s a lot of excitement to burn through in Sevierville, and some days, you just gotta get those feet moving — above or below ground. You have to earn your time sitting on the porch and watching that mountain sunset, right? Spelunking at Forbidden Caverns

Did you know there are more caves in Tennessee than in any other state...

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Spelunking at Forbidden Caverns

Did you know there are more caves in Tennessee than in any other state in the country? You can fact-check for yourself at Forbidden Caverns, right in Sevierville.

Even when it’s a hot day outdoors, it stays a cool 58 degrees underground. The stalagmites and stalactites, lit with a variety of colored lights, make for incredible scenery as you explore below town. This is a family-friendly way to get a taste of spelunking, with lighted paths, handrails, and an experienced guide at the lead, narrating the way.

Note: The caverns are open April through November. 

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville


Playing mountain paintball

Try out one of the first facilities in the US to offer low-impact paintball...

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Playing mountain paintball

Tennessee Mountain Paintball is one of the first facilities in the US to offer low-impact paintball, so skeptics and the “I bruise like a peach!” types should start here. This is a great way to get out with the older kids and unleash some energy.

But there are opportunities for the younger ones, too—kids ages 7 to 10 can participate in Tennessee Mountain Paintball’s low-impact (e.g. “pain-free”) Splatmaster Games, a two-hour session that can accommodate up to 10 people. Afterward, there’s no being sore for tomorrow’s adventures—though your pod may be ready for some downtime.

 

Photo: Nak Anna/Shutterstock


Hitting the fairways

While the kids are off paintballing, book a tee time...

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Hitting the fairways

While the kids are off paintballing, book a tee time at the Sevierville Golf Club, arguably the best in the Smokies. You’ve got two courses to choose from: the 18-hole, 72-par River Course runs along the Little Pigeon River; the 18-hole, 70-par Highlands Course takes you around rolling hills and ponds. There’s always the meditative magic of a bucket of golf balls and the driving range, too—especially when the views are this scenic.

Note: Proper golf attire is required, so pack that polo. 

 

Photo: Visit Sevierville



This guide is proudly produced in partnership with Visit Sevierville.

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Published on June 15, 2021 06:00

June 14, 2021

Visiting Lake Titicaca’s Uros Islands is a unique way to experience Peruvian indigenous traditions

The Uros Islands are a group of over 60 floating grass islands located in the middle of Lake Titicaca, Peru. The 1,200 or so people who inhabit those islands, the Uru people, have lived here for centuries. They started building islands out of totora reeds they harvest from the lake to protect themselves against the Incas and have preserved this lifestyle ever since.

My visit to the Uros IslandsLocal women waiting for visitors at the edge of the totora reeds island in the Uros Islands, Peru

Photo: Laura Grier

When my boat first arrived at Khantati Island, I was greeted by local women wearing vibrant traditional woven skirts and sporting braided hair tied with neon pom-poms. It was like a fantasy world where everything was made out of grass and bright colors. The islands, the boats, and the homes were made entirely from the totora reeds.

The Uros women wasted no time welcoming me into their family for a couple of days and were excited to get me acclimated to life on the island. This included dressing me in thick cotton and colorful layered skirts and donning me with a knitted cap, signifying that I was single and not married. Tradition has it that when Uros women are ready to marry, they announce it by wearing colorful pom-poms, while married women wear straw hats.

Kitchen on one of the Uros Islands

Photo: Laura Grier

After I changed into the traditional garb, I was given a grand tour of the island. It had a full kitchen with solar panels perched on a grass pole, a lounge area with a swing set and chairs all made out of grass, a pond where the fish that is caught is kept, separate men’s and women’s bathrooms (port-a-potties with holes cut through the island), and of course the family homes.

The islands mix the traditional Uru lifestyle with modern conveniences. Besides solar electricity, some homes have satellite TV, and many of the inhabitants own cell phones. And like families in other parts of the world, the ones on Uros Islands have pets — the family I was staying with had a cat and a flamingo.

How the Uros islands are made

The Uros people create these islands by hand using a type of mud that floats and stacking layers of reeds on top of the mud. They then attach the floating mud blocks together with wooden stakes. The foundations of the islands are ever-thickening stacks of Totora reeds that have to be cut daily from the lake and layered on top of one another. This constant making and re-making of the totora reed floor of the island is to sustain families’ weight and their homes on the top layer and prevent the island from sinking.

Whenever a boat passes the islands, the ground moves underneath your feet the way it does when you’re standing on a dock. Usually, four or five families live on one island at any given time. If someone wants to move to another island, the home is cut away and reattached to another island, making inter-island marriages and separations much easier.

The daily lives of the Uru peopleLocal woman on the Uros Island displaying art and craft creations

Photo: Laura Grier

I spent my days watching the local women hang their hand-made woven reed mobiles and other arts and crafts to sell to tourists and boats passing by.

In the evenings, I joined Victor, the patriarch of the island of Khantati. He took me on boat rides in my local garb to show me the inhabitants’ fishing techniques and grounds. Victor also taught me how to cut the grass to make traditional boats. He told me that totora reeds boats usually only last a few months before turning into a soggy mess. But everything on Uros Island eventually becomes a soggy mess — that’s why men spend their days cutting reeds to maintain their homes and island.

For generations, the Uros people subsist primarily by fishing, bird hunting, and gathering bird eggs from the reed beds. Children attend kindergarten and elementary school on the Uros islands, while older children continue their education on the mainland. Nowadays, the Uros also earn income through tourism.

A small floating convenience store stocked with candy, junk food, and sodas for purchase comes to the island daily, as well as the tourists.

How to get to Lake Titicaca’s floating islandsThe Uros Islands and the boats made of totora reeds

Photo: Laura Grier

The easiest and safest way to reach Uros Island is by flying from Lima to Juliaca, a town 12,500 feet above sea level. After a two-hour car ride from the airport (you can hire a driver or a guide), you’ll arrive in Puno, the town on the edge of Lake Titicaca, where you’ll get picked up by boat to Uros.

Travelers can also reach the Uros Islands via a long overnight bus ride or an all-day train ride from Cusco. While the train ride is said to be beautiful, it’s also long, so if you’re short on time, get on a plane.

How to visit Uros Islands

Travelers can visit Uros Islands during guided four-hour tours from Puno. Most boats depart in the morning between 7 and 8 AM for a 20-30 minute ride to the islands. The tours take turns visiting certain islands on odd days and others on even days to limit how much tourism disturbs local life.

I opted for a three-day homestay through the tour company Mystery Peru, which provided a far more in-depth experience. This way, you can dive into the locals’ daily lives, participate in community tasks, and even try your hand at making crafts.

Things you need to know before visiting the Uros IslandsLocal women on Lake Titicaca's Uros Islands

Photo: Laura Grier

Best time to visit: The dry season, between April and November, is the best time of the year to visit the Uros Islands. The shoulder seasons from April to May and September to November are excellent options for good weather with fewer tourists.

Language: The native Uru language has faded away from the Uros Islands over the years, but don’t expect the Uru people to speak Spanish. The inhabitants of the Uros Islands speak Aymara or Quechua, the language of the Inca Empire. But worry not, simple gestures and a little bit of patience will get you just about every you need. If you’re on a quick tour of the Uros Islands, your guide will likely act as a translator.

Altitude adaptation: The Uros Islands and Lake Titicaca sit at 12,500 feet above sea level. You will feel very uncomfortable at this elevation unless you acclimate by visiting lower altitudes in Arequipa or Cusco before heading to Lake Titicaca. Higher altitudes also mean stronger sun exposure and drastic changes in temperatures, so be sure to bring a hat, sunscreen, warm layers, and comfortable shoes.

Other islands on Lake Titicaca

The Uros islands are not the only islands travelers can tour on Lake Titicaca. There are other larger islands both on the Peruvian side and the Bolivian side of the lake that you can visit and even stay on (although they are not made of totora reeds). The largest and most popular of these islands are Taquile, Amantani, and Suasi islands.

Two indigenous Quechua women in traditional clothes walking down the path to the harbor of Isla Taquile (Taquile Island) with the Titicaca Lake in the background, Peru., Uros Islands

Photo: SL-Photography/Shutterstock

Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca’s largest island, is known for its beautiful textile traditions recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. It’s a two-hour boat ride from the Uros islands, and once you get there, it’s a challenging 500-stair hike from the shore to the main town plaza, but the views from the top make it worth the climb.

amantani island on the shores of lake titicaca in peru, Uros Islands

Photo: Lroy/Shutterstock

Because of its remote location, Amantani is lesser-known and therefore less visited. Inhabited by about 4,000 Quechua people, the island is home to two mountain peaks called Pachatata (Father Earth) and Pachamama (Mother Earth) — ancient ruins are on the top of both peaks. There are no hotels on the island, so some families on Amantani open their homes to tourists for overnight homestays. The islanders even hold games and nightly traditional dance parties for their guests.

Suasi Island on Lake Titicaca view from accommodation, Uros Islands

Photo: Isla Suasi

For a more luxurious stay, head to Suasi Island, an eco-retreat on a private island in the middle of Lake Titicaca. Completely solar-powered, Suasi was designed as a place for meditation and relaxation. You can hike from high hills to empty beaches, kayak in the crystal-clear waters, enjoy the full-service spa, or just relax on hammocks overlooking the lake. The rooms are simple, but all have views of the lake from the terraces. Be sure to request a room with a skylight so that you can fall asleep while stargazing.

More like thisHikingThe most rewarding treks in Peru beyond Machu Picchu

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Published on June 14, 2021 16:30

You can now see the world’s original Pride flag at this San Francisco museum

A piece of LGBTQ history that was thought to be lost forever has been unearthed, and it will now be displayed at San Francisco’s GLBT Historical Society museum.

Ever wondered where the rainbow flag to represent Pride came from? Gilbert Baker arrived in San Francisco in time for the Gay Liberation Movement in 1972 and became known for his sewing creations. In 1978, Baker was asked to create a new symbol to represent the Pride community for the Gay Freedom Day celebration put on by city supervisor Harvey Milk and other local activists. Baker designed and created what we now know as the Pride flag, as well as several companion flags. All were hand-stitched and dyed with the help of friends and volunteers, according to the GLBT Historical Society. While the original 30-feet-high by 60-feet-wide rainbow flag was partially destroyed by mildew from poor storage, a 10-feet-high by 28-feet-wide fragment is on display over 40 years after its creation.

The original rainbow flag has eight colors: pink is for sex, red is for life, orange is for healing, yellow is for the sun, green is for nature, turquoise is for art and magic, blue is for serenity; and purple represents the spirit. The pink and turquoise stripes have since been removed on modern flags. Pink was removed in 1979 because, at the time, the fabric was difficult to find. Turquoise was later removed so the flag would have an even number of stripes.

GLBT Historical Society original Rainbow Flag

Photo: Gareth Gooch

After the original flags were used for the 1979 Gay Freedom Day parade, they went into storage at the San Francisco Gay Community Center. When Baker went to pick them up, he was only able to salvage a portion of the rainbow flag, which he then kept in his possession until he passed in 2017. In 2019, Baker’s sister Ardonna Cook loaned the flags to the Gilbert Baker Foundation for the Stonewall 50 Pride Parade in New York City. Still, no one knew the historical significance of the flags. They were then stored in foundation president Charles Beal’s home until flag expert James Ferrigan brought it up in a chance conversation. The two were finally able to authenticate the flag, according to a press release.

“For LGBTQ people, there are few artifacts that carry the historic, political and cultural significance of this seminal work of art, the original rainbow flag. We are deeply grateful that Gilbert Baker saved this fragment and that it has been brought home to San Francisco. We trust that its message of diversity, liberation and hope will continue to inspire queer people for generations to come,” said Beal, along with Terry Beswick, executive director of the GLBT Historical Society, according to the museum website.

To see the portion of the flag in person, admission is free for all visitors with reservations on the first Saturday of every month. Regular admission is $10. COVID-19 restrictions in place include one-hour caps on visits, with only 10 people allowed in the museum at a time. Walk-ins are only available if the museum is below capacity, so it’s recommended to make reservations online. If you can’t make it to San Francisco, interested parties can also take advantage of an online version of the exhibit.

More like thisLGBTQ Travel5 US cities where you can celebrate Pride 2021 in person

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Published on June 14, 2021 15:30

A pilot found a note from March 2020 in a cockpit. Here’s what it said.

First Officer Chris D. parked Delta ship 3009 at the Victorville airport in the California desert for what he thought was a two-week lockdown on March 23, 2020. Over a year later, First Officer Nick P. is finally beginning a checklist to take ship 3009 out of storage.

Inside, he found a letter penned by Chris D. about his experience leaving the aircraft behind and what he hopes will be happening after. The 57-word note was “tucked away on a tray table in the flight deck,” according to Delta’s Facebook post.

Delta Pilot note from March 2020

Photo: Delta Air Lines/Facebook

“Very chilling to see so much of our fleet here in the desert. If you are here to pick it up then the light must be at the end of the tunnel. Amazing how fast it changed. Have a safe flight bringing it out of storage!” Chris D. wrote.

Travel is finally picking up over 400 days after that fateful March 2020, and the Delta post on Facebook concluded with, “While the world certainly has changed over the past year, one thing is for certain: we won’t be taking that open runway for granted anytime soon.”

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Published on June 14, 2021 15:00

Arc de Triomphe to be wrapped

After being delayed for over a year due to the pandemic, the Arc de Triomphe, one of Paris’ most iconic monuments, will finally be revamped.

Before his passing in May 2020, internationally famous artist Christo had plans to wrap the arch in 270,000 square feet of silvery blue recyclable fabric and 23,000 feet of red rope. Christo’s project will go ahead after Bastille Day on July 14, 2021.

The piece will be called “L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped” and was first conceived by Christo in 1962 when he lived in Paris with his late wife, Jeanne Claude. Almost 60 years later, his vision will come to life.

Arc de Triomphe

Photo: Christo and Jeanne-Claude

Construction is expected to finish after 12 weeks in September. Christo’s art work will be displayed for 16 days, from Saturday, September 18 to Sunday, October 3, 2021, a press release explained. The deconstruction of the work of art will begin October 3, to prepare the monument for Armistice Day in November.

“We can do this project without him today because they [Christo and Jeanne-Claude] already drew up every visual and artistic aspect of it. This project is 100% Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s project. It was his wish that this should happen even after he was gone. We are just realising his vision,” Christo’s nephew Vladimir Javacheff told The Guardian.

This isn’t Christo’s first foray into the world of wrapping. He previously wrapped Berlin’s Reichstag and Paris’ Pont-Neuf. He’s also the artist behind the 7,000 oil drums that were floating around Hyde Park in London in June 2018.

A version of this article was previously published on April 9, 2019, and was updated on June 14, 2021, with more information.

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Published on June 14, 2021 13:00

Switzerland is preparing to reopen to vaccinated US travelers

Get ready to say “Grüezi” — Switzerland is expected to reopen to vaccinated travelers on June 28.

The decision hasn’t been finalized yet. The Swiss government is expected to do so on June 23, according to Bloomberg.

Although Switzerland is not a part of the European Union, it is part of the Schengen Zone and has been restricting access to travelers from outside the zone to limit the spread of COVID-19.

Switzerland has only had 32 cases of COVID-19 per 100,000 people in the last seven days, and its vaccination numbers have reached almost 34 percent, according to Reuters.

The opening is expected to apply to US visitors and other countries, and other COVID-19 restrictions are expected to loosen. Other Schengen Area countries reopening include France, Portugal, and Spain.

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Published on June 14, 2021 12:55

Renting a campervan is the best way to see Puerto Rico beyond the touristy resorts

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Somewhere Chris Farley is sad he’s not the one who made living in a van cool.

Between the pandemic-era rebirth of the great American road trip and Frances McDormand depicting van life as a sort of second act liberation, #vanlife is certainly having a moment. And while Nomadland may have made traversing the Dakotas seem like an ideal itinerary, no place in North America lends itself better to exploring by van than Puerto Rico.

There are plenty of reasons to explore Puerto Rico by van. First of all, nobody’s spending a freezing cold night in the Caribbean. But beyond its warm weather, Puerto Rico has beaches, mountains, jungles, and deserts — all within an hour’s drive of each other. It has friendly locals who’ll welcome you in, plenty of terrain you wouldn’t easily find without using a van as both transportation and shelter, and a permissive vibe that makes it easy to park and stay with minimal hassle.

These are all things I saw first-hand during an action-packed weekend of living the #vanlife in Puerto Rico. If you do the same, it’s guaranteed to be one of the coolest vacations you ever take. You don’t even have to be all-in on van living to enjoy it.

For people, like myself, who enjoy things like regular showers and air-conditioning, the IslaVan is an ideal choice for your trip. Not quite a van, and definitely not an RV, the IslaVan is a retrofitted Mercedes Sprinter with a lockable rain shower, a two-burner kitchen stove, a toilet under said stove, a refrigerator, and an air-conditioner that runs on solar energy. So if you’re smart enough to park in the sun during the day so the air-conditioner can charge, you’ll be able to stay cool all night without running the engine.

This piece of rolling luxury goes for about $275 a night on Airbnb. That’s less than the price of a four-star hotel on a busy weekend, though pricier than your average bungalow. It’s not exactly rustic, to say the least, but it makes the experience about as comfortable as it can be.

Living the van life on a Caribbean beachAtlantic,Coast,With,Palm,Trees,Tides,And,Rocky,Shoreline,Outside, Puerto Rico by van

Photo: Joe Ferrer/Shutterstock

After picking up the IslaVan at the San Juan airport, I drove west about an hour and a half to the town of Arecibo, best known for its observatory and 19th century lighthouse. Just off the city’s main harbor I found a white sand beach, where I rolled out my van’s canopy and set up some chairs. I’d just cracked my first Medalla when a deeply-tanned older couple from somewhere in the northeast came poking their heads inside.

“This thing yours?” the man asked me. I told him it was a rental and then he asked how much it cost me.

He then proceeded to tell me about how this beach was usually popular with people in campervans who spent the night there. Today, however, it was just me.

“So I can just set up and sleep here?” I asked, expecting the same rules of no one on the sand after sunset that one finds in California and Florida.

“You kidding?” he laughed heartily as he stuck his tanned head in the van. “This is Puerto Rico, pal. Ain’t no rules here.”

isla-van-parked-on-beach-discover-puerto-rico,Puerto Rico by van

Photo: Discover Puerto Rico

There are, of course, rules to traveling Puerto Rico by van that every visitor should follow, regardless of what the man said. Still, the island’s permissive spirit made it easier to make the most of my newfound mobility. And so I opened up all the doors and windows, let the breeze fly through, and spent the night sleeping just a few feet from turquoise water.

Though sleeping in a big, white sprinter van alone on the sand was basically a beacon saying “tourist sleeping here, likely by themself,” nobody bothered me at night.

Exploring Puerto Rico’s mountains, winding roads, caves, and rushing riversScenic,Photos,Throughout,Beautiful,Puerto,Rico's,Tanama,River,,Old,San, Puerto Rico by van

Photo: Nathaniel Arocho/Shutterstock

Though Puerto Rico’s beaches are what people know best, what truly makes the place so magical are its mountains. The mountains were central to the indigenous Taíno people who lived on what is now Puerto Rico and other nearby Caribbean islands hundreds of years ago. As soon as I began ascending the deep green canyon about half an hour south of Arecibo, I could feel the energy that has drawn people for centuries.

After an hour of some white knuckle driving, I pulled into Batey Adventures, just outside the mountain town of Utuado. There I embarked on a half-day odyssey along the Tanama River, which began with a hike through lush jungle and continued on with a kayak trip through ancient caves.

The hike continued through more caves, thicker jungle, and even included a little bit of river swimming, making for a completely immersive mountain experience where you pretty much have to leave your phone behind.

After the trek, my guide suggested stopping at a restaurant called La Familia along the road back to Utuado. The house of mofongo and fresh seafood sits on a hillside with views over a lush mountain valley. It was temporarily takeout only, which when you’re in a van doesn’t even phase you. It just means you can open up your side doors and enjoy the view without anyone at the next table.

A roadside shower and an impromptu night on a farmCueva,Ventana,-,Window,Cave,In,Puerto,Rico,,Usa. Puerto Rico by van

Photo: Tinapat B/Shutterstock

The day’s second hike was to Cueva Ventana, an uphill trek to a cave that looks out on the river and valley below. The two-hour trip passes through petroglyphs, artifacts, and a couple of other windowless caves, and is both an education in pre-Columbian Puerto Rico and the beauty of its mountains.

The hike departed from a gas station parking lot, and after a full day of hiking a shower seemed in order. I just popped into the van (equipped with curtains and blackout windows) showered, and drove into town for dinner.

Dinner that night was at Bier Garden Utuado, a beer hall and patio in the little mountain town. It offered a variety of island-brewed beers, as well as a menu with both Puerto Rican classics and beer hall staples. As I enjoyed hearty steak frites, I started up a conversation with the owner, Rialdi, who owns a landscaping company and runs the place as a side venture. After the restaurant closed, he and his wife stayed there chatting with me as I enjoyed dessert and a few more beers.

“Where you parked?” he asked.

“I’m in the grocery store parking lot across the street,” I told him, resigned to spending the night in a slightly less glamorous location than the previous night’s beach.

“You can park on my farm if you want,” he offered. Yes, this sounds like it could be a tragic first scene of a horror movie, but Puerto Rico is an inherently welcoming place and Rialdi and his wife were genuine. I followed them back to their farm, cloaked in complete darkness.

“This place has a great view in the morning,” he told me. The glittering lights of Utuado below hinted he might not be exaggerating. When I woke up, I knew it was the real deal.

The “farm” was more of a hilltop estate, with views of the river and a valley in one direction and the town of Utuado in the other. I felt like the boss on a coffee plantation as I watched the fog creep through the canyons. It was yet another experience that never would have happened staying in hotels.

A desert hike to a stunning overlook and tacos on the waterSunset,At,Los,Morrillos,Lighthouse,,Cabo,Rojo,,Puerto,Rico, Puerto Rico by van

Photo: amadeustx/Shutterstock

Rialdi told me about the desert on the southern coast, a topography I would never have imagined on such a green island. Yet there I was, an hour and a half from the jungle mountains, in the Bosque Seco de Guanica, a desert forest not far from Ponce. An hour’s hike brought me to an old lookout tower on a cliff over the ocean. It’s one of the most dramatic and least-visited viewpoints on the island. You’ll need a ton of water and some serious sun protection, but it’s an unheralded experience few visitors get to have.

Being able to shower in your van after a two-hour desert hike is especially refreshing.

Just past the dry forest you’ll find the beaches of Cabo Rojo and one of the best beach parks on the island at Parque Nacional Balneario Boqueron. Determined to see what the IslaVan kitchen could do, I found a strip of sand near the park’s marina where I could set up and attempt to make the easiest meal I knew: tacos.

The van’s burners were a little slow to heat, and I had to warm my tortillas by throwing them straight on the propane flames. Ultimately, I was able to plate myself a few simple beef tacos and enjoy them with a cold Medalla and both feet in the water.

Tempting as it was to stay overnight, I wanted to see more of the island. I packed up and began driving out of the park when a park ranger motioned for me to pull over.

“You can’t park on that road,” he told me, motioning to the spot where I’d just enjoyed my beachside tacos. “We wanted to let you finish your dinner, but don’t do it again.”

Diving a reef and swimming in a bioluminescent bayparadise-scuba-snorkel-puerto-rico-facebook,Puerto Rico by van

Photo: Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center/Facebook

I spent the night on yet another farm that rented space to RV and van travelers. It was about half an hour outside the town of La Parguera, which is known as the spot for aquatic adventure on Puerto Rico’s southern coast.

In La Parguera, I set out on a morning scuba dive to the colorful reefs off the city’s coast. During the trip, my guide with Paradise Scuba told me the company ran a nightly trip to La Parguera’s bioluminescent bay.

“We let you get in and swim with them,” he grinned. “They don’t do that in Vieques.”

Of all Puerto Rico’s bio bays, the one in La Parguera is the least visited, and consequently also the most permissive. Inspired by the guide’s suggestion, I signed up for the evening tour, which left just before sunset and stopped at a mangrove island for sunset, where we enjoyed beers and chicken empanadas.

The boat then took us to the bioluminescent bay, where only a couple of other boats joined us. Armed with only a snorkel and a mask, the guides invited us to jump in the water. It was a little like being in your own personal Tron, where every move you made was followed by a trail of glittering dinoflagellates.

Covered in glittering algae, I realized yet another shower was in order. Which, conveniently, I had in the van. I also realized it was getting late, and the van farm I was set to camp at was half an hour away. So I set up shop on a street in La Parguera and called it a night there. After a day of diving and swimming, having the ability to sleep on the street in relative safety was a relief.

After an action-packed few days, it was time to drive the three hours back to San Juan and surrender the IslaVan to its rightful owners. It wasn’t the roughed-up experience some expect from van life, but it did provide the perfect way to explore parts of Puerto Rico I wouldn’t have otherwise. It offered freedom and flexibility, as well as opportunities I’d have never had the chance to do if I was hopping from hotel to hotel.

If the siren of #vanlife is calling, but you’re still not sold on nine-hour drives and public showers, Puerto Rico may be the answer. It’s all the fun of mobile travel with little aggravation. Plus, it’s a way to discover this magical island like few others ever have.

More like thisTravelPuerto Rico road trip: How to see the entire island in 7 days

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Published on June 14, 2021 11:30

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