Matador Network's Blog, page 55

Breakfast With Elephants and Sleeping Under the Stars at Soroi Larsen’s Camp, Kenya

Travel writing isn’t a very high-paying job, but it comes with a big perk: getting to see some of the most luxurious, unique, and outdoorsy hotels in the world. I’m usually a budget traveler, so it doesn’t take much to wow me. But when I stay somewhere so fantastic that I just want to hang out at the hotel (and with the hotel staff) all day, that’s a special place. That was the case during my recent stay at Soroi Larsen’s Camp, a boutique tented hotel on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River in Kenya’s less-visited Samburu National Reserve.

The original “Larsen’s Camp” opened in the same location in 1987. However, it eventually closed, and the current owners Gabriele Nowak and Dave Choda purchased the then-closed property in 2020. They did a complete renovation from the ground up, constructing everything on platforms to hedge against flooding. The camp reopened in its current iteration in July of 2023.

Tented safari camps in Africa are a dime a dozen — but here’s why Soroi Larsen’s Camp stands out.

It’s named in homage to a famous conservationist

Elephants crossing the river near Soroi Larsen’s Camp. Photo: Suzie Dundas

The camp is named for Danish Explorer Erik Larsen, who camped in Samburu in the exact location of the lodge in the 1950s. He focused on documenting Samburu’s wildlife and was among the first to speak about the Samburu “Big Five:” five native animals you can only see in Samburu. They include the Grevy’s zebra and reticulated giraffe (two sub-species of zebra and giraffe, respectively), the gerenuk, the Somali ostrich, and beisa oryx. He pioneered collective conservation on a large, international scale (obviously, local tribes were already in the area), and the camp’s design incorporates elements from Larsen’s original field notes, including elevated tent platforms and riverfront orientation. All tents at the resort open to the river, with one or more private decks.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Suzie Dundas (@hikeupyourskirt)

The resort experience starts with a surprise safari drive

Views en route to Larsen’s Camp. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Reaching Soroi Larsen’s Camp begins with adventure, as guests have to drive through the reserve itself to reach the hotel. I traveled with Alluring Africa, which booked my flight to the Buffalo Springs airstrip and coordinated a lodge pickup. We were met at the airstrip by George, our fantastic guide for the next three days. On the way, he talked to us about Samburu while we kept an eye on the surroundings to spot dozens of giraffes, elephants, and gerenuks.

Welcome at the camp was unforgettable, and we sipped on fresh juice while we learned about our schedule and plans for the next three days — but in fairness, it was hard to pay attention with the distraction of the sprawling Samburu savanna just a few steps away.

Accommodations are sprawling, luxurious, and private

The porch of the “Desert Rose” tent. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Reader, let me tell you: I was shook — shook — when I walked into my tent (“Desert Rose.”) I was escorted by a camp host, and when she opened the door, I was 100 percent sure she’d led me to the wrong room, and that surely they’d mistaken me for a much more important person.

But it turns out I’d just been upgraded — an added perk of visiting in the slow season just before Christmas holiday travel began. My front porch alone was impressive, with an outdoor bed and space to chill outside. But it opened to reveal a gorgeous four-poster bed with a hand-painted mural behind it, a writing desk, vintage lighting, outdoorsy decor, and a large pouf tossed in the corner.

Photo: Suzie Dundas

But I soon realized that was only half the room. Stepping behind the bed led me to a huge wardrobe and table with coffee, filtered water, and decorative art like woven bowls and framed bird art so pretty I would have pulled it off the wall if I could. Attached to the double sink/vanity area was an indoor shower on on side and the washroom on the other.

Walking past the sinks led me to the front of my room: a sitting area with a card table and a large couch/relaxation area. Another set of sliding doors opened on this end to one of the room’s best features: a huge verandah with a sunbed and private plunge pool, both looking straight out onto the savannas of Samburu. My tent was the furthest-away room on the property, ensuring lots of privacy while relaxing on the deck and watching giraffes wander by.

While my room was one of the higher-end rooms, the interior was similar to most other rooms on the property, save for the plunge pool. All the suites are similar in terms of size, furnishings, and decks, so they all feel quite posh and roomy. But what made my room extra-special was something I’d not experienced before: it came with a private star bed tower, providing a chance to sleep in extreme comfort outdoors above the landscape.

The star bed experience was one of the coolest things I did all year

The star beds roll forward on a track so guests can sleep directly under the stars. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Two rooms at Larsen’s Camp feature private raised star beds, and mine, furthest from camp, had epic views. From my second-floor tower, I watched (and heard) herds of elephants cross the Ewaso Nyiro River daily.

The star bed tower, reached by a staircase beside my tent, had a snug bed wrapped in seamless mosquito netting, plus a table and chairs. Guests can book private lunches (best for views) or dinners (romantic, but dark) up there. I used it to work and take photos during the day.

Star beds are becoming more common in places like Botswana, but they’re fewer and further between in Kenya. Owner Gabby Nowak says it was inspired by Samburu’s reliably impressive skies. “Over 80 percent of all star constellations can be seen in Samburu,” she said. “I have always enjoyed sleeping outdoors and Samburu is perfect for it due to its warm weather patterns.” While they’re not planning to add any more star beds at Samburu, they will add them at Soroi Amboseli Luxury Camp, which they plan to open in early 2026.

Views from the star bed (there are elephants in the distance), and the sky bed table, which can be transformed into a dining area. Photo: Suzie Dundas

I spent three nights at Larsen Camp and slept in the star bed on the last night. The Larsen’s Camp team rolled the bed out for me that afternoon so I had a clear view of the stars, and power sockets and bottles of water meant I didn’t need to climb out once I had settled in. However, the level below the star bed is an open-air shower and toilet, ensuring you don’t have to run back into your tent if nature calls in the middle of the night.

It was my worst sleep in a while, but in the best way possible. Every distant animal noise sent me scrambling out of bed with a flashlight, hoping to spot a lion (spoiler: only baboons). I saw them everywhere, including on my deck, at the pool, and on the star bed stairs. Fortunately, there’s a trapdoor to seal the staircase at night so you don’t wake up to a baboon trying to steal your pillows. Falling asleep under a sky full of stars, with elephants rumbling nearby, beats a perfect night’s sleep any day.

Dining and cocktails

Photo: Suzie Dundas

Meals are an event at Larsen’s Camp. There’s an extensive menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and if you’re leaving early on a morning safari drive, you can have coffee and a light snack delivered to your tent via a wooden drop-down flap that lets food in while keeping baboons out. Everything is made fresh on site, and it’s clear the culinary team is passionate about their jobs. During meals, chefs would often come out and ask us what we wanted to try, and tell us about the new recipes they were excited to experiment with.

Menus are a mix of Western, Kenyan, and Indian cuisine, though in reality, the team can probably make you whatever you want. One morning, I requested just a banana for breakfast, and it was brought to me perfectly centered on a plate as if it was a gourmet meal. I also loved that the menu was so vegetarian friendly, with half of the options being meat-free.

Photo: Suzie Dundas

Cocktails, too, are not in short supply, and sundowners on our game drive were a highlight not just of the stay, but of all of 2025. It was a true bucket-list experience to sit in an open-air safari car, chatting with George while he mixed cocktails out of the cooler on the floor of the Jeep. I have a mental picture of watching George shake a G&T while elephants wandered just steps in front of our car. It was a memory I’ll never forget — and felt like one of the most luxurious things I’ve ever done.

Sustainability

Soroi makes biodegradable bathroom products to keep chemicals out of the landscape (so leave your shampoo and conditioner at home). Photo: Suzie Dundas

Soroi Larsen’s Camp is powered entirely by solar, and each room has a large metal bucket in the shower to collect excess water; it’s then used as needed throughout the resort. All the shower products are custom-made biodegradable blends, and all waste goes to Nairobi, where it’s recycled and disposed of properly — or made into compost then used in the kitchen garden. The Soroi team also runs clean-up days in the reserve and surrounding areas.

The development of safari reserves is a complicated subject, especially in finding the balance between traditional landholders, Indigenous tribes, and international tourism. And no one at Larsen’s Camp shied away from discussing the topic.

I learned that Soroi is fairly progressive when it comes to community development. “Conservation cannot exist without the support of community and them benefiting from tourism,” Nowak told me. While many lodges in Kenya employ mostly men, Larsen’s Camp has lots of female employees (including one of the country’s first female general managers), and about 70 percent of its employees are from nearby communities. The resort runs a program where it pays for women from local villages to attend college with a tourism focus, including lodging costs and textbooks. “This creates young professionals in the industry,” says Nowak, “but at the same time, empowers young girls to be independent with employment opportunities in the Soroi Collection or with other properties.”

Surrounding communities benefit from having Larsen’s Camp nearby, I learned, via dental and medical clinics sponsored by the resort, food and solar energy donations, and a resort-sponsored program in which recycled plastic gets exchanged for textbooks and resources for local schools.

On-site amenities

Camp is eco-chic, with a huge outdoor dining deck and fire pit by the river. Photo: Suzie Dundas

The resort is luxurious, even though it looks like a natural bush camp. There’s a large communal dining deck with a recessed fire pit, a covered outdoor lounge area plus a fully tented separate indoor lounge area, and lots of swinging bucket chairs and lounges scattered in pretty areas around the property. Though only two rooms have private pools, there’s a big communal pool and deck that looks out on the savanna, so you can scan the horizon for the “Samburu Five” while you lounge by the pool.

Like many lodges, there’s a small gift shop. But it has a notable twist: it sells items made by craftspeople in local villages, and the prices aren’t any more expensive than you’d pay if you bought it from them. One of the beading artists (Juwana) actually crafts part-time in the shop, so guests can ask questions and watch her work. She’s in training to become Samburu’s first female wildlife guide.

Look at his cute little toes. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Like most resorts I’ve visited in safari destinations, the resort is mostly outdoors, with plenty of places to wander. On property, I saw a creature I’ve never seen in the wild before: a chameleon. In fact, it took me a minute of wondering “what the heck is this lizard” before I noticed it was changing patterns and put two and two together.

There’s also an on-site photo hide: an underground room where photographers can hide at roughly eye-level with a manmade watering hole. Animals at the watering hole can’t see the photographers, but it means you can take amazing photos even with a basic iPhone. Unfortunately, I was there during the rainy season and not too many animals visited the watering hole, as there was water available nearly everywhere in the reserve. But it’s a super unique, fun feature totally free to guests.

Add-on activities

Photo: Suzie Dundas

Travelers can opt for just the room and meals, or book the full safari package. You can book rooms directly, or book through a safari operator like Alluring Africa, which comes with some complimentary perks, like a private bush breakfast. You’ll depart at 5:30 AM for a sunrise safari drive, then head to a secluded clearing where the Larsen’s Camp team transforms the bush into a gourmet dining spot.

I thought the lavish setup, with linen-draped tables, floral centerpieces, and full buffet, was for another group until we got closer and I recognized the chefs. Out of pocket, the experience is about $100 per person and includes fresh pastries, a made-to-order omelette station, fruit platters, champagne mimosas, and surprises like the chef’s inventive “Kenyan breakfast pizza” (spiced eggs and cheese on a flaky pastry base, delicious).

The team hauls everything into the wild, including a coffee press and cozy blankets, making it feel both luxe and adventurous. Watching elephants wander nearby while sipping bubbly? Priceless.

Other add-on activities include guided bush walks, visits to villages with which the resort partners, or visits to a local community-owned elephant sanctuary, where there’s only one fence — and it’s to keep humans in, not elephants. I thought pricing was fairly reasonable for a luxury resort, with bush walks starting around $55 an hour. Some activities are free, like guided birdwatching, as long as one of the camp avian experts is available.

Visitors can tour a community-owned elephant rehabilitation center, or visit the all-women village of Umoja. Photo: Suzie Dundas

Rates and Inclusions

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Soroi Larsens Camp | Samburu | Kenya (@soroilarsenscamp)

There’s no doubt Larsen’s Camp is expensive: rooms start at $900 for full board (all meals) with two to a room, or $1,300 for the full package, including twice-daily game drives, airstrip pickups, and perks like sunset sundowners in the bush. For most people, it’s a bucket-list trip you’d save up for to take the safari trip you’ve always dreamed of.

An experience should be absolutely fantastic on all fronts at that price, and fortunately, it is. It’s also clear where your money is going when you book a stay: it goes to hiring knowledgable and friendly staff (who I wish could have stayed with us for the rest of the trip), to decadent and locally sourced meals, to luxurious rooms that make you feel like a celebrity on vacation, and to local communities and causes near Samburu Reserve.

If you’re going to splurge on travel, you should splurge on travel that gives back to local communities. For me, that definitely helps justify the costs — as does the over-the-top experience. I only hope I’m lucky enough for my travels to one day bring me back to Samburu, and there’s no question about where I’d stay.

More like thisNational ParksFrom Bush to Beach: The Perfect Week in Kenya

The Costs to Vacation Like a ‘White Lotus’ Guest at the Real-Life Resort in Thailand

Now on it’s third season, it’s pretty clear that The White Lotus is one of the most popular shows currently on TV. The season three premier had 2.4 million viewers, which is an increase of more than 50 percent over the season two premier. The show has been covered ad nauseam in the media, touching on everything from the hotel backdrop to the fashion choices made by some of the show’s more over-the-top characters.

And over-the-top they are. To date, all three seasons of the show have explored themes of privilege, wealth, social inequality, and cultural clashes through the lens of guests and staff at a chain of fictional luxury resorts known as “The White Lotus.” Each season is set at a different high-end hotel, intentionally chosen for its appearance as an exclusive destination available only to the small segment of the population who can afford it. Perhaps not surprisingly, all three seasons have been shot at high-end Four Seasons resorts. Season one was shot at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea in Hawaiʻi, while season two was at the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace in Taormina, Italy.

Photo: Four Seasons Press Room

Season three is set at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, a luxurious beach resort built into a tropical hillside overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. It has villas with private infinity pools, as well as a robust menu of Western- and Eastern-inspired spa and wellness treatments. And the show’s characters seem to take advantage of all the resort offers — but not one person asks about the cost of a single activity. But we did.

Here’s what it would cost to vacation like a White Lotus guest, based on the actual cost of the activities the characters are shown doing at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui.

Cost of rooms at “The White Lotus Thailand”

Photo: Warner Brothers Discover/HBO Press Room/Fabio Lovino

It’s a little difficult to tell what room each party is staying in at the The White Lotus, especially since scenes were probably shot across a variety of spaces that may not represent actual available rooms. But here’s roughly what travelers should ballpark, based on the Four Seasons Koh Samui booking website.

Belinda Lindsey, the spa manager from “The White Lotus” season one in Hawaiʻi, travelers to Koh Samui by herself. She mentions in episode one that her room has two beds, and based on the views in the scene, she’s likely staying in a “Serenity Pool Villa.” Including fees, it starts at $1,303 per night in October (the island’s slow season).Jaclyn, Laurie, and Kate are three friends traveling together who appear to be sharing a three-bedroom residence. Those lodgings start at $5,726 per night if you take advantage of early booking discounts, or $7,157 per night, if the ladies booked a last-minute trip.The Ratliff family may also be staying in a three-bedroom villa. But if they had opted for a little more space with a four-bedroom residence, they’d pay $7,666 per night in October, or $9,584 per night without an early-booking discount.

Cost of spa and wellness treatments

Actress Sarah Catherine Hook in a yoga class at the fictional “White Lotus Thailand.” Photo: Warner Brothers Discover/HBO Press Room/Fabio Lovino

Each character on the show, at least up through the episodes that have been released, seems to be taking advantage of additional services each day of their vacation. While a few of the treatments mentioned in the show were likely created for plot reasons, many of the treatments are quite real, and available on property at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui. Here’s the cost of what characters would be shelling out for the various high-end treatments, based on the resort’s current spa menus.

Chelsea is a 20-something woman traveling with Rick, her much older boyfriend. On her first day, she opts for a body scrub with waxing. While the resort doesn’t have prices listed for waxing, the most basic body scrub at the Four Season Koh Samui starts at $214 for 90 minutes.Rick, Chelsea’s boyfriend, begrudgingly does a stress management session with a meditation expert. The resort has no treatment called “stress management,” in real life, but it does offer “directed breath work release therapy,” to “learn to release anything that you are willing to let go of, be it everyday stress, anxiety, childhood traumas or other painful memories that have been stored in the body,” which seems very similar to what Rick does. That service is $273 per person for 90 minutes.In episode three, Laurie books an energy heeling session. Those are available with one of the resort’s “resident healers” for $178 per person for a 60-minute session.Most of the Ratliff family books at least one service per day. Oldest son Saxon books a sports massage (called a “deep therapeutic” in real life), priced at $175 per person for an hour. Daughter Piper does at least one guided yoga class, available in the resort’s yoga pavilion. It’s unclear if the resort offers any type of complimentary classes, but it lists guided morning and afternoon yoga at a rate of $119 per person (plus a 17 percent tax).Jaclyn, Laurie, and Kate seem to be doing a private yoga class, which is a little more reasonably priced. A class for a group of up to six people is a flat rate of $208, plus tax.Victoria Ratliff’s spa treatment isn’t specified by name, but based on her comments about trying to relax, she likely got a “Relaxing” massage, starting at $175 for an hour-long session.

The cost of drinks and dining at “The White Lotus Thailand”

Actor Nicholas Duvernay dining at the fictional White Lotus, filmed at the Four Season Koh Samui. Photo: Warner Brothers Discover/HBO Press Room/Fabio Lovino

During the first three episodes, characters are shown drinking and dining throughout the day. While most drinks and dishes aren’t mentioned by name, here are the ballpark sizes of the bills they’re racking up during their luxury vacations.

One drink mentioned specifically is a martini, which Chelsea orders in episode one. Gins range from $9 to $22, and with about two shots of gin in each drink, it could cost her up to $44 per dirty martini.The characters are shown eating breakfast in the main dining area each morning. The breakfast buffet at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui starts at just over $50 per person, per day.Saxon Ratliff inquires about how to order a drink at the resort pool. The least-expensive drink he could order off the pool bar menu would cost 580 baht, or about $17 per drink. (Unless he ordered a mocktail for $11, though that would seem out of character for him).Victoria Ratliff orders in-room dining one afternoon. Since the room comes with a private butler, it’s unclear if there’s an extra fee for delivery to the rooms.While no wines are mentioned by name during the dinner scenes, the least expensive bottles of red or white are Thai wines from the Hua Hin Hills, priced at $50 each. If the characters splurged, they may be paying up to $172 for the priciest bottles.Dinner at the resort’s priciest restaurant (Pla Pla) can run up to $222 per entree, for an Australian black angus tomahawk steak.

Though prices at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui may seem steep, it’s not the most expensive White Lotus hotel to date. That honor belongs to season two’s San Domenico Palace, where basic rooms start closer to $1,500 per night, including taxes and fees. Rooms at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea are the most affordable, with off-season rates starting around $970 per night, including taxes and fees.

More like thisTravelChannel Your White Lotus Fantasy at These Thailand Airbnbs

Learning to Ski in the Poconos: An Adventure On — and Off — the Slopes

Resorts in states such as Colorado, Utah, and Vermont are considered the crown jewels of ski trips. But a recent winter trip to Pennsylvania pleasantly surprised me with approachable slopes (especially for newbies) and other fun seasonal activities, both at Camelback Resort and around southeastern Pennsylvania.

Despite growing up in the Seattle suburbs only a couple of hours from multiple ski hills, I only learned how this year. The sport had been on my mind ever since I lived in Québec, and the idea remained over the years I spent country-hopping. Then, for the first time in a while, I spent an entire winter home in the Pacific Northwest.

My dad, who used to love to ski, had recently had shoulder surgery to fix the injury that caused him to stop decades ago. As a Christmas gift to both of us, I booked some lessons (for me) and day passes (for him) back home in Washington State. However, “terrified beginner” still best described me upon touchdown in the Poconos.

Getting to Camelback Resort in Tannersville was no small feat from the West Coast. I took two flights from Seattle to reach Allentown, PA, and then a 45-minute car transfer to the mountain. For travelers coming from New York, western Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, though, it’s an easy drive on Highway 80.

Photos: Camelback Resort

The next morning, my alarm jolted me from a short night’s rest, and I made my way to the shuttle, jetlagged and a little nervous but ready to conquer the bunny hill. My arrival at Camelback’s ski school helped cool my pre-slope anxiety — despite many school districts holding mid-winter breaks, the gear rental and lesson sign-up building was surprisingly calm. Staff didn’t rush while fitting our group with boots, helmets, and skis, and did so with genuine smiles. They took time to explain how the gear should fit, which often feels awkward.

In stark contrast, my preceding lesson experience had been much more chaotic with dozens of adults and kids crammed into a small rental area. Hurried staff asked if boots “fit” without telling me (someone who had never worn them before) what that entailed. This definitely contributed to my lack of chill on the slopes.

Additionally, this go-around, my fellow beginners were three other women who approached skiing with similar fear and caution. Previously, I’d put on my first pair of skis alongside a group of boys in their early 20s. They were all nice enough and also beginners, but the group vibe — overconfidence before nailing technique — wasn’t exactly my speed. All in all, my all-female Poconos group provided a much more comfortable environment.

We started in the learner’s area, a mostly flat section with a shallow incline to slowly work your way up. The instructor took everything slowly, explaining stuff I’d technically learned before: ski stance, pressure on the outside ski to turn, and look where you’re going, not down. But anyone who has learned to ski as an adult knows that these are reminders that warrant repeating.

A forward stance gives the most stability, but it’s not intuitive, especially as an adult learner. The brain’s safe reaction is to lean back as it’s the natural response to the fear of falling. This is unfortunate because the more you lean backward, the more likely you are to fall. However, I was determined to persevere.

Photo: Sydney Baker

I slowly inched up the baby hill, and with each added turn, my confidence grew. I’m sure my previous lessons helped (skis are so awkward the first few times you wear them, so I’m thankful this wasn’t my first time), but so did the lack of crowds, attentive instructor, and supportive all-women group.

I knew I had the ability, but it was nice to see it come to fruition and not get lost in fear. By the end of the lesson, I was swerving left and right around cones, something I’d enviously watched 10-year-olds do beforehand.

If you’re looking to ski for a day at Camelback, a 60-minute friends and family lesson costs $159 (including rentals if you come midweek). You’ll need a minimum of two people or at least one other person besides yourself. Groups can have up to eight in a session — perfect for families or friend groups who want to learn together. The school also offers one-hour private lessons starting at $219.

For all of the above, you’ll need to purchase a lift ticket separately (starting at $49). Full-day gear rentals start at $69. Make sure to book ahead of time as space is limited. Arrive at least 45 minutes before your lesson time for gear fitting and parking. (There’s a free shuttle for Camelback guests.)

To the Poconos and beyond: Building out your Pennsylvania ski trip

The Poconos

Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock

Ideal for families and multi-generational groups, Camelback has options for skiers and snowboarders as well as non-skiers, including a massive indoor waterpark that’s complimentary for all guests. (Non-guests may purchase day tickets starting at $59.) The hot tub relaxes sore muscles after a day on the slopes. You’ll also find VIP cabanas and an adults-only area complete with a swim-up bar.

For younger guests, there’s an on-site arcade, plus multiple dining options. This includes Hemispheres (a buffet-style breakfast and dinner spot) and Coffee by La Colombe (serving espresso and grab-and-go food). Trail’s End Pub and Grille is a cozy spot for warm drinks, cocktails, lunch, and dinner. It’s located at the bottom level of the main lodge and the end of a blue ski run for a ski-in, ski-out experience.

Photo: Camelback Resort + Native Digital + AWStudio

I hadn’t gone snow tubing since I was a child and jumped at the chance to do so at Camelback. The resort’s tubing park is one of the largest in the country and makes for a fun adrenaline-filled day in the snow without the cost or skill requirement of skiing and snowboarding. Tickets start at $49 for a two-hour session, and in the evening, you can tube among rainbow lights.

In addition to ski lifts and the tubing hill, Camelback also runs shuttles to nearby restaurants such as Barley Creek Brewing Company (for anything else, a car is a must). While Barley Creek is a nice place to go for a housemade beer (or two or three), the real reason to swing by is Firkin’ Curling. No, that’s not a typo — just the funniest sport you’ve never heard of. Firkin’ Curling is curling but with old beer kegs (called firkins in the UK, hence the name). Created by Trip Ruvane, Barley Creek’s owner, it makes for a fun night out after a day on the slopes.

Photo: Sydney Baker

Off the mountain, one of the most underrated parts of the Poconos is the town centers. My group spent a magical morning in Stroudsburg (about 15 minutes from Tannersville), which felt straight out of a Hallmark movie. Breakfast at The Cure Cafe is a must (as everyone in the Poconos insisted). It was almost a struggle to select breakfast from the extensive farm-fresh menu, but the coffee was the best I had on the entire trip (a big endorsement coming from a Seattleite).

Afterward, we went on a quick walking tour and loved meeting many of the Snowmen of Stroudsburg (a collection of painted snowmen that local artists create and display around town). Every winter the town brings them out to encourage tourism during the low season.

Camelback Resort: 193 Resort Drive, Tannersville, PA 18372

Montgomery County

Photo: Sydney Baker

This region between the Poconos and Philly is rich in history. My group stopped at Valley Forge National Historical Park, where George Washington and the troops prepared to fight the British. In addition to numerous monuments and an informative museum, the park is full of walking and snowshoeing trails. We even saw a few cross-country skiers.

For dinner, we devoured a delicious sampling of dumplings at NanXiang Soup Dumplings, located in the enormous King of Prussia Mall about 10 minutes from Valley Forge. To build out your itinerary with more non-ski activities, or things to do on your way back to Philly from the Poconos, the mall’s Cork and Candles hosts candle-making classes where you can select your own unique scents. Candle-making is a fun Pennsylvania tradition that can add a restful indoor element to your trip.

Valley Forge National Historical Park: 1400 N Outer Line Dr, King of Prussia, PA 19406
King of Prussia Mall: 160 N Gulph Rd, King of Prussia, PA 19406

Philadelphia

Photo: Matt Stanley for DRWC

If you have time or want a bit of big city lights for your Pennsylvania winter trip, make time for Philly. My group didn’t have too much time in the city, but we enjoyed an afternoon at the Independence Blue Cross RiverRink Winterfest.

Every December through February or March, this outdoor ice rink provides a beautiful skating location along the Delaware River. In the evening, food vendors sell hot chocolate and local snacks like crab fries in a Christmas Market atmosphere. The lodge and rentable fire spots and yurts are available to warm up after a bit of skating. Time permitting, it makes for a lovely way to wrap up a Pennsylvania ski trip that manages to be just a little bit more.

Independence Blue Cross RiverRink: 101 South Columbus Boulevard, Philadelphia, PA 19106

More like thisTravelWhere to Play, Eat, and Stay on a Ski Trip to North Carolina’s High Country

American Airlines Now Offers Free Wi-Fi on These 3 Routes

The airline industry has a reputation for “extras” that come at a cost. Checking bags, carry-on size limits, choosing your seat — all things that were widely adopted across carriers as a la carte options to compete with budget airlines that brought low base prices to the masses. One of those extras is starting to become standard: free Wi-Fi. American Airlines is the latest company looking at the offer.

Just before March, an internal American Airlines announcement confirmed by The Points Guy stated that the airline will trial free Wi-Fi starting in March on three routes: Charlotte to Raleigh, North Carolina; Miami to Chicago; and Charlotte to Jacksonville, Florida. The trial is to obtain data on how many travelers use it, aircraft bandwidth capacity, and how pleased flyers are with the switch. The rate for Wi-Fi on a cross-country flight on American Airlines is currently $35, and can be paid for in cash for with miles. TPG also notes that most of the airline’s fleet can technically provide streaming-capable Wi-Fi.

Graphic: Matador Network

The announcement follows similar decisions by Delta, United Airlines, and others. Delta announced free Wi-Fi on all international flights in 2024, and United said 200 of its regional planes will offer the same by the end of 2025. Turkish Airlines announced its entire fleet will have free Wi-Fi by the end of the year.

The American Airlines trial is a small one on relatively short flights (the longest, Chicago to Miami, is about three and a half hours). Hopefully it’s one step closer to true connectivity without the expense and hassle.

More like thisAirports + FlyingAmerican Airlines' New Boarding System Exposes Queue Jumpers

How Island Nations Are Using Tourism to Fight the Impacts of Climate Change

On July 25, 2024 the Polynesian nation of Cook Islands formally joined the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC), a collection of international organizations including federal and municipal governments along with other entities, that sets global standards for sustainable tourism. The ratification of the council’s doctrine, dubbed the GTSC Criteria, by this isolated archipelago of 15 islands could play a massive role in the economic and environmental future of a remote country that is increasingly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Around the South Pacific, island nations are embracing eco-tourism as a vital means of safeguarding their economies amid an increasingly volatile natural environment – encouraging both local businesses and travelers to participate, as both stand to gain as a result. Initiatives here as well as in Fiji highlight how tourism can help build climate resilience, and could become a blueprint for destinations around the globe.

The Cook Islands integrates eco-first tourism into its national economic strategy

Eco-tourism initiatives in the Cook Islands connect travelers to resident-led excursions with a focus on conservation. The result is both an increase in the number of travelers visiting, and a greater focus on protecting local cultures and ecosystems. Photo: ChameleonsEye /Shutterstock

Low-lying geography and isolation make Polynesian nations quite vulnerable to natural disasters. Getting relief to them during cyclones and subsequent flooding events is hard — and dangerous. Rising sea levels threaten to erode coastlines, contaminate freshwater supplies, and displace communities, further making South Pacific nations among the most vulnerable places on the planet to the impacts of a global catastrophe they had little to do in causing. Studies pin a mere 0.03 percent of total human-caused carbon emissions on Polynesia, making their current exposure to its impact something of a bait and switch at the hands of historically massive emitters like the United States and China. With tourism-dependent economies, countries including the Cook Islands and Fiji are designing resilience around what keeps their economies afloat.

“In the Cook Islands, responsible travel is first and foremost a community-driven movement,” Brad Kirner, Cook Islands Director of Destination Development at Cook Islands Tourism, tells Matador. “Local businesses, landowners, and cultural leaders have been integrating sustainability into tourism for years, ensuring that visitors engage in authentic, meaningful experiences that benefit local people and protect the environment.”

Like in many destinations, travelers first experience the Cook Islands’ sustainability efforts via food and drink. Raise a pint at Rarotonga Brewery on the island of Rarotonga and they’ll be drinking a beer made with as little environmental impact as possible – starting with its refillable bottle through the generator powered by used cooking oil that powers the facility where the beer is brewed. Travelers can sign up for a tour with Kōrero o te ‘Ōrau, a youth-led environmental NGO dedicated to marine conservation, reef protection, and preserving traditional ecological knowledge through its Ta’unga Mataora Program.

Snorkelers on an eco-tour pass over a protected reef over Rarotonga. Photo: ChameleonsEye /Shutterstock

Nationally, a key component of the Cook Islands’ climate strategy is Marae Moana, the world’s largest multi-use Marine Protected Area, covering more than 730,000 square miles of ocean. Here, marine conservation and sustainable economic activities, including tourism, go hand in hand. Local communities manage ra’ui (traditional marine protected areas) to allow fish populations to regenerate, and tour operators actively educate visitors on marine conservation. Many businesses have adopted eco-friendly practices, such as ceasing fish feeding and coral reef walking, ensuring that marine tourism contributes to, rather than harms, the environment.

GEF-7 Project ENUA, a tongue-twister of an initiative led by the Cook Islands’ National Environment Service (NES) with support from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and funding from the Global Environment Facility (GEF), is one of the primary ways travelers can engage with Cook Islands’ conservation efforts on a trip. This project aims to enhance biodiversity conservation and improve the management of protected areas, and as such it pushes tourists toward tour operators that follow strict environmental guidelines, including Ariki Adventures, as well as eco-friendly accommodations like Atiu Villas and Ikurangi Eco Retreat. The initiative also engages local conservation NGOs to help businesses and travelers follow marine protection guidelines and reduce plastic waste.

Following the establishment of Marae Moana in 2017 and the subsequent growth in environmentally-focused lodgings and tours, the island’s economic plan is increasingly focused on optimizing these initiatives.
“At the same time, destination-wide planning is beginning to align with these grassroots efforts, ensuring that tourism development reinforces community values rather than reshaping them,” Kirner says. “For the first time, an ‘all-of-government’ approach is being taken to integrate sustainable tourism into national policy, with the Destination Stewardship Planning (DSP) process serving as a key mechanism to align decision-making across ministries and ensure that tourism development enhances environmental, cultural, and community wellbeing. This work will also set the foundation for updating industry-level sustainability standards, including the Cook Islands Quality Assured (CIQA) and Mana Tiaki eco-certification programmes.”

While the Cook Islands has made significant strides in integrating conservation efforts into its national economic strategy, Fiji is taking a similarly ambitious approach to using tourism as a tool for climate resilience. Like the Cook Islands, Fiji recognizes that protecting its natural resources is essential for both its economy and its future. Through large-scale reforestation projects, marine protected areas, and sustainability-driven tourism businesses, Fiji is demonstrating how island nations can harness the power of responsible travel to combat climate change while ensuring long-term environmental and economic stability.

Fiji leverages tree planting and ocean protections, with visitors’ support

Fiji’s 30 Million Trees initiative aims to reforest the island nation as a natural defense against climate change. Some of that tree planting happens on the island of Viti Levu, shown here, where the vast majority of travelers first arrive in the country. Photo: Radek Borovka/Shutterstock

1,300 miles to the west of The Cook Islands, another South Pacific archipelago is acutely vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. Fiji, at an average elevation of just 1,000 feet and whose population largely resides near sea level, is equally remote – Australia, the nearest continent, is some 2,800 miles to the west. Its largest island, Viti Levu, has two international airports. The vast majority of travelers arrive via Nadi International, on the island’s west side, and this airport also serves as a primary point of exit for residents and tourists in case of emergency. Rising sea levels form the most imminent climate-induced threat to the country in the long term, with increased frequency of major storms already costing Fiji an average annual asset loss of over $500 million, according to data compiled by The Fiji Times. This equates to more than five percent of its Gross Domestic Product (GDP).

​In February 2016, Fiji endured the devastating impact of Severe Tropical Cyclone Winston, a Category 5 storm and the most intense tropical cyclone ever recorded in the Southern Hemisphere. The cyclone inflicted catastrophic damage across the archipelago, killing 44 people and displacing or severely impacting 350,000 — nearly 40% of Fiji’s population. The disaster left around 131,000 individuals in immediate need of shelter assistance, with 40,000 homes damaged or destroyed. The total economic impact was profound, with damages estimated at $1.4 billion, OCHA reported.

In a country where tourism accounts for 40 percent of the economy, according to its Finance Ministry, Fiji is a natural leader in utilizing tourism as a means to combat climate change. It’s stepped to the plate in a big way. The islands of Tavarua and Namoto have launched clam and coral restoration projects to boost clam populations and protect their coastlines. The 30 Million Trees Initiative, launched in 2020, is a nationwide effort to plant 30 million native trees by 2030, aimed at curbing deforestation, restoring ecosystems, and enhancing biodiversity.

“The goal of the initiative is to plant 30 million trees by 2030, focusing on native species to combat deforestation, enhance biodiversity, and mitigate climate change,” Ivy Mallam, a spokesperson with Tourism Fiji, told Matador via email. “The project aims to restore ecosystems, improve soil and water quality, and provide better habitats for wildlife, while also creating jobs in sustainable forestry.”

Some dive outfits in Fiji offer survey dives, where divers participate in monitoring the health of shark populations and their surrounding ecosystems. Photo: MDay Photography/Shutterstock

This ambitious reforestation project is intended to sequester carbon, of course, but it also serves two additional purposes. First, it helps build a natural buffer for the island against rising sea levels and hotter days. Second, the initiative is its own sort of “eco-tourism” offering in that it allows visitors to patronize businesses participating in the initiative. In the long-term, the initiative hopes to drive more traditional eco-tourism offerings as well, as tour operators have more lush landscapes to show off to visitors. Another major step in Fiji’s environmental strategy is its Sustainable Ocean EEZs (exclusive economic zones) initiative, which seeks to manage 100% of its ocean territory sustainably by 2030. A key aspect of this plan is the establishment of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs),

“The country plans to protect 30% of its marine areas through Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), which limit fishing and help conserve marine life,” Mallam says. “This is part of Fiji’s National Ocean Policy (2020-2030) to ensure a healthy ocean for future generations.”

The project expects to be crucial for Fiji’s tourism sector, particularly for tour operators offering snorkeling, diving, and wildlife excursions. More places to explore, and better health in those places, means not only a better environment but again, more eco-tourism offerings.

Cultural performances like this fire show highlight the the importance of protecting Fijian culture. Photo: Manon van Os /Shutterstock

Beyond government-led programs, the tourism industry itself is stepping up with direct environmental initiatives. Resorts such as Nanuku Resort and Six Senses, on the island of Malolo, have implemented coral and mangrove planting projects to boost carbon sequestration and coastal resilience. The island is rife with resorts and tour operators like Beqa Adventure Divers and Barefoot Manta, which give guests experiences build around sustainability that highlight the reasons they came to the islands in the first place — like survey dives, marine clean-ups, and responsible (no touching or flagrant selfies) wildlife interactions.

While specific quantitative data on the direct impact of these eco-initiatives on climate resilience won’t be measurable for years to come, the efforts are a lesson in forward-thinking that other vulnerable destinations around the world can embrace. Preserving natural ecosystems supports local economies, and simultaneoously fosters community engagement in conservation efforts. This brings in tourists — Fiji achieved a record-breaking 983,000 visitor arrivals in 2024 — and these measures collectively enhance the capacity of these island nations to adapt to and mitigate the impacts of climate change.

More like thisTravelAir Travel Pollutes Relentlessly. Is Carbon Removal Part of the Solution?

The Vallée de la Gastronomie Is France’s Tastiest Roadtrip

Many foodies regard the Michelin guide as the authority on the best places to dine in cities around the world. However, its roots have little to do with quality cuisine: Michelin is a tire manufacturer founded in 1889, and its early restaurant reviews were designed solely to encourage Parisians to go on road trips, and thus need more tires.

Fast forward to today, and people are still gallivanting on road trips across France – but Michelin isn’t the only guide around. Nowadays, there’s also the Vallée de la Gastronomie, a newer compilation of more than 400 vetted culinary experiences travelers can explore at their leisure. The full route covers 385 miles from Burgundy, in the northeast, down to the country’s Mediterranean coast in the south.

It’s more than just restaurant recommendations: the list of culinary excursions also includes farmers’ markets, wine tastings at vineyards, and even opportunities to spelunk in caves where avant garde winemakers age their wine. It’s perfect fodder for curious gourmands hoping to plan the perfect road trip through France.

Northern Burgundy, from condiments to cassis

The “Maille” boutique at Dijon (La Maison Maille). Photo: Joao Paulo V Tinoco/Shutterstock

The name Burgundy is synonymous with wine, with more than 3,000 domaines in the region. The terroir is ideal for pinot noir (the most-grown red grape in the region), chardonnay (the most grown grape overall), and smaller amounts of gamay, aligoté, and others.

Northern Burgundy is also home to the city of Dijon, the northernmost point on the Vallée de la Gastronomie, which has a completely different association. Mustard is what put the city on the map, and when you’re there, it’s not just a condiment. It’s an ingredient in many dishes, on charcuterie boards, and even in some cocktails at Monsieur Moutarde.

You won’t have any luck finding Grey Poupon in Dijon. Local French mustard mills like Reine de Dijon and Edmond Fallot produce authentic Dijon mustards, and, like wines, their flavor nuances are influenced by the specific blend.

A good place to sample the gamut of Dijon’s famed accoutrement is at the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, a sprawling museum and culinary market, where mustard tastings are as obligatory as wine tastings (as is sampling their perfect complement: cheese).

Say cheese (c’est “fromage”)

Epoisses (and other cheeses) from Fromagerie Gaudry. Photo: Erik Trinidad

Burgundy’s most iconic type of cheese is Époisses, a pungent but dynamically flavorful soft cheese made with cow’s milk. Famed Fromagerie Gaudry has been crafting the centuries-old recipe since the 1970s, and its cheese-making facility in Brochon is an excellent pitstop for turophiles heading south from Dijon along the Vallée de la Gastronomie route.

But the flavor profile of a French foodie road trip need not be solely savory, salty, bitter, or sour. Sweetening the palate nearby is another Burgundy specialty: crème de cassis, a smooth, sweet liqueur made from local blackcurrant berries. Burgundy’s blackcurrant berries are considered to be among the best in France. Makers of liquor, like the family-run Jean-Baptiste Joannet in Arcenant, have tastings to appease your sweet tooth as you continue your way south.

Beaujolais, beef, and bees

Charolais beef from Maison Doucet. Photo: Erik Trinidad

Southern Burgundy is where the wine region of Beaujolais lies. Wine from Beaujolais is distinct from the majority of wines in the north, as most are fermentations of the gamay grape. It’s lighter and fruitier than pinot noir grapes.

The freshest and perhaps most well-known expression of Beaujolais wine is Beaujolais nouveau, which is shipped and celebrated worldwide on the third Thursday of each November on the same year it was harvested, per local industry rules. Whether or not a wine aged only three months is preferable, or just a gimmick, is a continual argument. But it does warrant at least a taste at wineries like Château de La Chaize in Odenas, if it’s in season. If it’s not to your liking, at least you’ve visited this magnificent, wine-producing estate, designed by the same architect as the Palace of Versailles.

However, a three-year aged Beaujolais cru might be a better pairing for another gastronomic speciality of southern Burgundy: beef. Charolais cattle, from the pastures around the town of Charolles, are desirable for their lean, flavor-forward meat. It’s on par with Angus or Wagyu beef in tenderness, but without the fat marbling. It’s masterfully prepared in a few gourmet restaurants in town, like Maison Doucet, which has a dedicated set menu honoring boeuf Charolais. The restaurant has its own herb and vegetable garden, and buys the rest from purveyors in the surrounding Beaujolais region.

Playing beekeeper in Burgundy. Photo: Thomas Chabrieres

The region also has a local heritage of nut oils, like those made from peanut and hazelnut, and they’re still being produced in small batches the old-fashioned way at Huilerie Beaujolaise in Beaujeu. For something sweeter, try the region’s honey derived from endemic flora. Beaujolais’ beekeepers, like those at the La Grappe et Le Rucher apiary in Fleurie, have plenty of ways to keep guests entertained. It’s an amusing road trip pitstop, especially if you want to don a beekeeper suit and see the honey-producing bee hives yourself.

Lyon, land of the bouchons

Pâté-en-croûte in Lyon. Photo: Erik Trinidad

The midpoint of the Vallée de la Gastronomie route is generally Lyon, the culinary capital of France: . It’s where the legendary celebrated chef Paul Bocuse elevated French fare into artful nouveau cuisine. In fact, he’s the posthumous namesake of Lyon’s gourmet food hall, immortalizing his innovative spirit. However, old culinary methods still flourish in the city’s thriving restaurant scene.

Lyon is famous for its bouchons. Historically, these eateries fed much of the working class, and inadvertently brought organ meats to the forefront of Lyonnaise cuisine, as nothing in a bouchon went to waste. Duck foie gras and veal sweetbreads are common ingredients still used today, and both are integral to pâté en croûte, a savory pastry and local specialty. It’s a dish so iconic to Lyon that there are annual competitions for its best rendition. It’s essentially a layered terrine (loaf) of various meats and offal (edible organs). It’s wrapped in dough, baked until flaky, and served like sliced bread. Bouchons also serve quenelles (a creamed, dumpling-esque dish) made with pike, a freshwater fish from the nearby Saône and Rhône rivers. It’s often smothered in a crawfish-based nantua sauce and is a recipe that originated in Lyon.

Praline brioche are a staple of bakeries in Lyon. Photo: ElisabettaCavagnino/Shutterstock

Lyon is a restaurant hub and packed with markets to explore, warranting an extended pitstop of at least a few days for any true gourmand wanting to try all the local specialities. And that includes dessert. Lyon’s boulangeries always have flaky French croissants; however, praline brioche is the more typical breakfast. Pralines are also the main ingredient of another iconic baked good – the unmistakably pink tarte aux prâlines, found in virtually every patisserie, in case you need a sweet snack before heading south.

Caves and confectionaries of Ardèche and the Rhône Valley

Spelunking in Ardèch Gorge. Photo: Erik Trinidad

The Rhône Valley is yet another important wine region of France, characterized by full-bodied red wines made from grenache, mourvèdre, and syrah grapes, all of which thrive in the region’s terroir. Those are the primary grape varieties (though many more are involved in smaller amounts) meticulously crafted into wine by the region’s 6,000-plus winemakers.

That includes one eccentric Raphaël Pommier of Domaine de Cousinac in Bourg-Saint-Andéol, who bills himself as a “wine composer.” Among his unorthodox production methods is the playing of different jazz and classical songs to affect aging, and bottles that go through this process have a QR code to link the song used. Based on his research, he swears it makes the wine more smooth and balanced, although there’s no empirical evidence to this. He also ages his wine in caves in the nearby Ardèche River Gorge to see how different bacteria in different caves will impact the taste. While many visitors to the gorge come to hike, mountain bike, rock climb, or kayak the Ardèche River, adventurous foodies can book a spelunking excursion to not only see where the wine is aging, but also sample it during a unique, sensory-deprived tasting experience.

Nougat at Arnaud-Soubeyran Confectioner

A far less taxing activity involves exercising your sweet tooth in the town of Montélimar. It may seem like any ordinary town of houses and small strip malls, save for all the artisanal confectioneries producing what the town is known for: nougat. The sweet, semi-hard treat comprises just four core ingredients (almonds, honey, egg whites, and sugar), though they’re hardly all the same. Visitors can see bakers making it in person through the observation windows at the Musée du Nougat, a permanent exhibition in the Arnaud Soubeyran nougat factory, with a history dating to 1837.

Lavender and bouillabaisse in Provence

Photo: iacomino FRiMAGES/Shutterstock

The postcard image of Provence is often a bright field of lavender shrubs, with the light purple flowers that give the region its name swaying in the breeze. And yes, many lavender farms harvest the iconic blossoms to extract their essential oils for cosmetics, creams, and lotions. However, the flowers and extracts of the harvest also have a purpose in the Provençal kitchen, where they’re used as herbs to add floral and aromatic notes to a dish. Lavender ice cream is one example. Coincidentally, it’s the dessert during picnic lunches at L’Essentiel de Lavande, organic lavender producer in La Bégude-de-Mazenc.

As you continue south toward the coast, cuisine becomes less floral and more Mediterranean, with more seafood and more influences from outside France. The dynamic port city of Marseille, the southernmost town in the Vallée de la Gastronomie, has a long history as a trading center, which made it a crossroads of international cultures. This diversity transcends into its culinary scene more than any other French city outside Paris.

Photo: GreenArt/Shutterstock

Marseille’s restaurant offerings include cuisine from Corsica, mainland Italy, Lebanon, Turkiye, the Congo, and more. However, it’s impossible to ignore the city’s most iconic French dish, especially as it’s ubiquitous on restaurant menus. Bouillabaisse, a traditional fish and seafood stew, is about as common in Marseille as rosé wine — which means you’ll find both everywhere. Rosé is the most-produced wine in Provence, but if you’re not an oenophile, you may want to try pastis. It’s a locally made, anise-flavored aperitif that has also become part of the fabric of Marseillais culture.

It’s easy to put together an indulgent (and fitting) final meal to close out a road trip along the Vallée de la Gastronomie. Start by sipping on pastis while people-watching in Marseille’s Old Port, then have a hearty serving of bouillabaisse (or perhaps a platter of Mediterranean oysters), paired with a Provençal rosé, of course. However, if you’re still hungry afterwards, you can always hit the road back north towards Burgundy. With so much culinary heritage along the way, you’re bound to have a completely different experience — provided you still have room in your stomach.

More like thisHow I Took an Affordable First-Class Train Trip Across France

The Gear Matador Editors Love For Spring Hikes

The hiking itch hits long before the first Spring bloom. Wildflowers, rushing streams, and the long-awaited return of the color green signify that it’s time to hit trail – however, spring also comes with unpredictable weather. Sudden rain showers are as common as lingering patches of snow at higher elevations, making trail conditions more challenging. This time of year requires sturdy, waterproof boots, layering up with moisture-wicking and weather-resistant clothing, and a resilient pair of trail pants. This is the spring hiking gear Matador outdoor and gear editors Suzie Dundas and Tim Wenger are using in 2025 to be prepared for the season’s ever-changing elements.

We hope you love this Spring hiking gear! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

 

Platypus DayCap In-Bottle Filter

Photos: Suzie Dundas

The DayCap In-Bottle Filter is one of those products that makes me wonder why it took so long for me to learn about it. It’s supremely useful for day hikes when you don’t want to carry a filtration system (and will be near a water source, of course).

I do a lot of day hiking and I usually just carry two Nalgenes full of water, or a filtration system. But the Platypus DayCap – a screw-on filter that turns any Nalgene or other wide-mouth bottle into a water filter – is now the only thing I carry on hikes (along with a bottle, of course).

The perks of the system are obvious, as it makes drinking filtered water on-the-go as easy as possible. I always travel with a big bottle, like a Nalgene, and this is now the only top I carry, giving me access to clean water. It’s about $40-$45, weighs barely anything, and replaces my old system of squeezing a water filtration bag until my hands hurt.

There are a few downsides: namely, you’ll have dirty water on the inside of your bottle, so you probably won’t want to use it again without the filter until you give it a good wash. And since you can’t use it to fill other people’s bottles or hip packs with clean water, each person in your hiking squad will need their own. To overcome those issues, you’ll probably want to look at a slightly pricier all-in-one system, like the Grayl GeoPress (which is also extremely useful).

Price: $40.48

Buy Now

Landmark Project T-shirts

Photo: Suzie Dundas

It’s no secret that parks, wildlands, and protected parks and monuments in the US are at risk of being shrunk or losing protections under Donald Trump. Whether you think that’s a good thing or a bad thing might depend on your political affiliation, but it’s undeniable that it’s happening.

Personally, I think it’s a horrifically bad thing, and it hurts me to think about the undoable damage that could happen to everything from national forests to national parks. That’s why I’m trying extra hard to support brands that give back to environmental causes – and Landmark Project has been doing that since its inception. The brand was founded by a group of nature-lovers who wanted to create sustainable, pro-park clothing. Now, the brand has donated more than $1 million to organizations ranging from the US Forest Service to the High Fives Foundation and Chesapeake Conservancy.

Fortunately, I think it is fashionable, especially if you’re outdoorsy. I just picked up two t-shirts for summer – “Save a Place for Wildlife” and “Keep Our Forest Green and Growing” and you can bet I plan to be wearing them on the trails this spring and summer. (And everywhere else, too). – Suzie Dundas, commissioning editor

Buy Now

Fjällräven Expedition X-Latt Insulated Jacket

Photo: Suzie Dundas

It’s no secret that Fjällräven gear can be pricey, but the brand is pretty transparent about why: it uses eco-friendly materials, eschews fast fashion, and has extremely high standards for how products are produced. Those sound like buzzy marketing terms, but the Swedish trekking company has been doing that before it was cool (since 1960).

The Expedition X-Lätt Jacket is my go-to insulated jacket for hikes, airplane rides, or any vacation where I’m only bringing one jacket and need it to work with everything. I love the straightforward and simple design and the fact that it’s easy to fit into its own internal storage pocket. But what perhaps what says the most about it is that I’ve been wearing it for a year, smashing it into dirty backpacks, wearing it through brush and forests, sleeping in it on planes and throwing it on the ground at camp, and it barely shows any wear. That’s impressive considering it’s been getting a hell of a lot of wear.

The sizing is super standard. I’m 5-foot, 7-inches, and usually wear a size 4 or 6. I’ve got room to layer in a small. My husband, who heard me rave about mine so much that he got one, too, is 6-foot, 1-inches, and reported that the men’s sizing is also exactly as expected.  – Suzie Dundas, commissioning editor

Price: $205

Buy Now – Men’s

Buy Now – Women’s

Arcade Motion belt

Photo: Tim Wenger

The issue with wearing most belts for serious travel and outdoor recreation is that they’re not flexible. The Arcade Motion belt exists for one reason – to solve this problem. The adjustable belt clips in rather than buckling, meaning it won’t juggle or loosen at any point throughout the day. An added benefit here is that this makes it easier to control the extra belt length so you don’t have strap dangling sloppily by your side.

I keep the Arcade Motion belt on the hiking pants I wear the most and generally remove it only to wash the pants. The belt is stretchy, made of recycled materials, and the black color matches pretty much anything. It’s classy enough that when paired with a decent-looking pair of hiking pants, heading to happy hour after a hike doesn’t require a change. – Tim Wenger, transactional content editor

Price: $54.95

Buy Now

The North Face Summit Series Breithorn HoodiePhoto: Tim WengerPhoto: Tim Wenger

In the Colorado Rockies, a good spring hike tends to evolve some light mountaineering. If you elect to get up high, you’re likely scrambling over snow-capped boulder fields, crossing rushing streams of snowmelt, and in the case of late-spring ski touring, you often need to hike a bit to get to the point where you can strap into your skis or splitboard and skin up. Early mornings this time of year remain below freezing, and that’s when you want to be out because the safest spring hiking and touring conditions are before the accumulated snowpack begins to soften in the afternoon. I’ve embraced The North Face Summit Series Breithorn Hoodie for these occasions.

Its 800-fill down – burly and warm enough to keep me warm above 10,000 feet. The hood is helmet compatible, so it works well for rock climbing, mountaineering, and skiing, meaning I can wear it on the way down as well as on the way up. It’s built to remain puffy even when wet and beads water off of the material, so there’s no need to wear a shell jacket unless you’re skiing in powder.

The cinch cord tightens around the neck to lock in warmth and lock out moisture. I’ve never found a better puffy for actually being out in the elements, and the bonus with the Breithorn is that it looks good, too. The most notable feature is that the Breithorn Hoodie packs into its left-hand pocket down to the size of a purse, so it fits easily into a backpack once the temperatures rise. I keep it in my spring touring pack so I always have it with me. – Tim Wenger, transactional content editor

Price: On sale for $301 at Backcountry.com

Buy Now – Men’s

Buy Now – Women’s

Lowa Renegade EVO GTX hiking boots

Photo: Tim Wenger

I’d heard about Lowa Renegade hiking boots many times over years, and even edited a review of them from one of Matador’s most trusted outdoor writers a couple years back. But it wasn’t until I saw them in person and strapped them on for the first time that I was fully sold. I live in western Colorado, where seasons often blend together. A typical spring hike covers everything from dry trail to mud to snowpack, and to effectively hike here in spring I need boots that are sturdy, water resistant, and burly enough to conquer both high desert sandstone and alpine dirt, in the same day.

The Lowa Renegade EVO GTX boots do this perfectly. I recently wore them on a typical spring day described above – and found excellent footing on rock and trail stretches that were wet, as well as an ability to hold grip on steep sections of rock like I encountered hiking up the Palisade Plunge trail. The trail is steep, and I felt confident moving both up and back down once I’d reached my turn-around point. These boots are the ultimate hikers for variable conditions, and that’s exactly what I want during mud season.

Beyond performance, the Renegade EVO GTX hiking boots fit well. They’re snug, but don’t cramp the ankles – I made a mental note to tie them tighter next time because, although high-top hiking boots are often awkward on slick-moving desert rock because they restrict impulsive movement of the ankles, these boots didn’t do that and I found myself both appreciating the flexibility and wanting just a touch more support. If they’re good enough for Zelenskiy, they’re good enough for me. – Tim Wenger, transactional content editor

Price: From $240 to $325, depending on style

Check out Matador’s full review of the Lowa Renegade hiking boots

Buy Now – Men’s

Buy Now – Women’s

Stio Hardscrabble Insulated Glove

Photo: Suzie Dundas

I was given a pair of Stio Hardscrabble gloves at a media event in Wyoming in winter of 2021/2022, and I thought “cool, I like Stio. I’ll try them.” Now, three years later, I’m still wearing them for pretty much all cold-weather pursuits. They’re still in great shape and warm as can be, and I haven’t been good about caring for them (as in, I haven’t treated the leather or cleaned them – ever).

They’re probably meant to be ski gloves, and they work well for that. But I wear them year-round, since anyone who regularly hikes in high-elevation environments knows early morning can be quite chilly. I also get cold on backpacking trips, especially as temperatures can swing wildly, and I’m prone to getting cold, especially after a few days of heavy calorie burning on the trails. The waterproofing is ideal, and the fit is snug enough that I have no problems with using hiking poles, or even typing a text). But truly, the most impressive thing is that they’re still extremely warm, even after three years of heavy use and plenty of months spent squished in the bottom of hiking bags.

Oh, and one important note, or maybe this is just me: the interior lining is attached throughout the glove, making them much easier to take on and off with sweaty hands. I’ve worn ski gloves that have fleece liners, and the way the fabric scrunches up when my hands start overheating makes them nearly unwearable. But pulling the Hardscrabble Gloves on and off is a breeze, with a quick Velcro tab to endure the cuff stays tight. They’re my go-to, and if these ever fully wear out, I’m sure it won’t be long before I buy another pair.

(By the way, they’re unisex. I have slightly small hands for a woman, and wear a size small in these). – Suzie Dundas, commissioning editor

Price: $159

Buy Now

Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z Trekking Poles

Photo: Andy Verbonitz

I’m a big fan of the Z-fold trekking poles because they fit inside a backpack when not needed. Over the years I’ve owned multiple pairs of Black Diamond poles and never had a pair I didn’t like – but the Carbon Z is my favorite because its collapsability doesn’t compromise its durability. The poles are super light and have a comfortable foam grip that doesn’t drive my fingers and joints nuts after a couple hours on the trail. The baskets are small but enough for composure and to block mud splatter. These can be interchanged with snow baskets if you plan to get up high enough that this is necessary. – Tim Wenger, transactional content editor

Price: $142.46

Buy Now

Fjallraven Vidda Pro Trouser

Photo courtesy Tim Wenger

Don’t hike in shorts. Especially in April. Unless, of course, you like getting mud on your legs, bug bites, and scrapes from each jagged plant you pass by. For the rest of us, there’s the Fjallraven Vidda Pro Trouser. These are the best trekking pants for hiking in the mountains in spring because they’re burly – they’ll keep your legs warm, they’ll hold everything you need at easy reach including a multitool, and the elastic cuff and boot hooks can be tightened to keep moisture and mud out.

I’ve been wearing the Vidda Pros on the trail for four years now and still use the same pair – I’ve never had a pair of trekking pants that’s more worthy of the investment. They fit well, not super loose and baggy like so many hiking pants, but rather they are built to move with the body. I actually wear these around town on occasion as well – it helps that I live in a small outdoorsy town where it’s actually in style to do so – and regularly have people ask me how I like them. I’ve even worn them for splitboarding on super-warm late season days when snow pants are too much. – Tim Wenger, transactional content editor

$169.95

Buy Now – Men’s

Buy Now – Women’s

More like thisTravelOur Gear Editor Found the Best Pair of Waterproof Hiking Boots

Escape the Noise: Slow Down and Recharge in This Secluded Cabin Immersed in Nature

We hope you love the places we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay.

The spaces we inhabit shape us, often in ways we don’t immediately recognize. Om Creative is a slow travel creative studio on a mission to discover places designed with intention that invite stillness, calm, and a return to what matters. Through Heartspace, our new documentary series, we’re seeking out such spaces and the people behind them, exploring how they cultivate mindfulness and transformation on both a personal and business level. Our journey began in the far west of the UK at Kuro Cabins, where the rugged landscape conceals a cabin designed for slowing down.

Kuro is in the far reaches of Maxworthy, North Cornwall, tucked between dramatic cliffs and windswept moorlands. The cabin was built by the owners, Vicky and Adam, and is inspired by Japandi design — a minimalist style that brings together Japanese and Scandinavian influences. There are no signs pointing the way, and few modern distractions once you arrive. Finding it feels like part of the experience itself.

Book Now

Vicky and Adam welcomed us when we arrived, and their passion for the land was immediately contagious. Kuro started with their shared dream to create a retreat space shaped by nature’s rhythm. As we wandered the grounds together, they shared the story from the beginning: planting trees and vegetable gardens, building the cabin and sauna from scratch. Along the way, intentionally building for simplicity, connection, and regeneration.

“We wanted to share this land with others,” Vicky explained. “There’s something special about being here. It’s peaceful. It’s a place to slow down and reconnect – with nature, with yourself, and with the people you’re with.”

Photo: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM Creative

The cabin is a reflection of Adam’s love for Japanese minimalism and practical design, with a focus on craftsmanship and durability that ensures it will stand the test of time. The name “Kuro” (which means “black” in Japanese) is a nod to the traditional shou sugi ban technique used to char and preserve the wood cladding — a process Vicky thoroughly enjoyed taking the lead on during construction. Not only does it protect the structure, but it also helps the cabin blend seamlessly into its surroundings.

Staying at Kuro is an immersive retreat. We spent evenings soaking in the wood-fired hot tub under a sky full of stars, listening to the freshwater stream gurgling nearby. After brisk December walks, we warmed ourselves by the fire, savoring the joy of being surrounded by nature. The open-plan cabin is designed to foster stillness and presence, with floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the landscape and low-impact lighting that lets local wildlife take center stage. A wood fire stove heats the space, and the kitchen and dining area are flooded with natural light during the day.

Photo: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM Creative

Every detail at Kuro reflects Vicky and Adam’s commitment to intentional living. The sauna they built is perched above a stream and designed to feel dark and moody inside in contrast to the vibrant green outside. During our stay, we ran up a sweat and then jumped in the open-air shower or took a cold dip in the stream — and endorphin-pumping experience we wanted to repeat over and over again. The design approach of having the hot and cold experiences in close proximity, we were told, was inspired by their fascination with longevity practices and blue zones, regions known for healthy, long-living populations.

Photo: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM Creative

“The world is speeding up,” Vicky said. “Here, we want to offer people a chance to slow down.”

Exploring Maxworthy and beyond

It would be easy to never leave the property during a stay and instead fully immerse in Kuro’s tranquility, but those eager to explore have Cornwall’s rugged beauty just a short drive away. For us, being in this stunning part of southwest England added another layer to the experience. We spent our days walking the dramatic coastline and surfing the turquoise-blue bays — moments that connected us deeply with the wild, raw beauty of the region.

Photo: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM CreativePhoto: OM Creative

The nearest town, Bude, is 20 minutes away by car and has independent cafes, cozy pubs, and surf shops. Its sandy beaches are a hotspot for surfing, with spots like Crooklets and Summerleaze Beach offering consistent swells for beginners and seasoned surfers alike.

For a change of pace, we took a coastal walk along the South West Coast Path, where cliffs plunge into turquoise seas and hidden coves beckon. Another gem is heading inland for hikes through Bodmin Moor to watch the autumn spectacle of starling murmurations (the stunning synchronized patterns the birds make when flying in a group), as well as visiting the charming and historic fishing villages nearby.

How to get to Kuro Cabins

Photo: OM Creative

Kuro Cabins is remote by design, so it takes some travel to get to. Travelers from London will need to take about a 5-hour drive west via the M4 and M5. From Plymouth, Kuro Cabins is about 35 miles, a little over and hour’s drive, north.

For those ready to escape the noise of modern life, Kuro is waiting. But don’t expect flashy amenities or curated luxury. Here, luxury is waking up to birdsong, warming your hands by the fire, and falling asleep to the sound of acorns on the roof. It’s a reminder that sometimes less really is more.

More like thisEpic StaysThe Most Wish-Listed US Cabins on Airbnb

South Africa’s New Cheetah Trail Is Chance to See the ‘Big 5’ on Foot

As a South African, I grew up on safari, whether in the back of my dad’s 4×4 or bumping around the loftier heights of a hotel Jeep. Now, as an adult still living in South Africa, I still adore seeing animals in the wild. So when I heard about the new “Cheetah Trail” walking safari experience at Samara Karoo Reserve, it was a no-brainer that I wanted to be among the first to do it. Safari? Sounds good. Walking? Love it. Cheetahs? Say no more.

I left Johannesburg on a red-eye flight, headed for Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). I met my group, and we transferred by car to Samara, about a 2.5-hour drive away. We then bundled into a classic safari Jeep to be taken to Samara’s private “Plains Camp” – and that was the last we saw of vehicles for the day. We had lunch, donned our hiking boots, and set out.

Walking through Samara Karoo Reserve on foot that afternoon felt borderline transformational: “I am one with nature. I am serenity made flesh,” I thought.

The author on safari, and the landscapes of the Karoo. Photos: Tayla Blaire and Samara Karoo Reserve

That lasted for around six hours — until we left the dining tent in the unfenced Plains Camp. We were following one of our rangers as he led us back to our tents with a high-beam flashlight.

During our safety briefing earlier in the day, he taught us nonverbal hand signals, explaining that yelling in the middle of the bush is not conducive to remaining, well, whole. So when he held up a clenched fist, it felt like a test.

“What is it?” I whispered, grinning. I love acing tests.

“Grumpy,” someone whispered back.

While not a strictly inaccurate assessment of my character, they weren’t talking about me. Our guide spotted “Grumpy,” a solo male white rhino, earlier on our first walk from afar. His nickname was bestowed thanks to his notably irritable temperament.

Grumpy (not pictured) is a solo male white rhino. Photo: Yulia Lakeienko

We remained in place, unwilling to budge an inch and disturb the dirt at our feet. I scanned the silhouette of our tents that sat no more than 100 feet away. “Who’s tent is the rhino blocking?” I wondered, before correcting myself that we were actually blocking him. I felt that glowing “one with nature” smugness again. “This is his home, not mine,” I thought.

But quickly, a crunch snapped my musings, replacing it with stomach-vaulting dread. “Grumpy isn’t by the tents,” I realized. “I wished Grumpy was by the tents,” I thought. But Grumpy is 10 feet away, his enormous behind towering like a boulder.

My mind helpfully replayed every headline I’ve ever read about charging rhinos, every memory where our car had gotten too close to one on safari and my dad would quickly reverse, swearing, while my brother and I shrieked from the back seat. But there’s no car to hide behind in Samara Karoo Reserve.

“Unfenced” is an adjective easy to dismiss when reading about a safari camp, but this is the reality: 5,000 pounds of Grumpy just steps away with no metal barriers or fences in sight.

I missed our guide’s next hand signal, too busy imagining who should read my eulogy. But soon, we started walking again. Refusing to look elsewhere, I watched Grumpy ignore us, blessedly finding the tasty, long grass by a thorn thicket more interesting. Our guide soon led us to safety, and I climbed the steps to my raised tent, zipping the canvas shut and collapsing on the bed before letting a strangled laugh break free.

Photo: Samara Karoo Reserve

I’ve done short bush walks and walking safaris before, spending an hour or so ambling away from my lodge, smiling beatifically at springboks, kudus, and zebras that scampered away. But this was something else.

Samara’s newly launched Cheetah Trail is a three-night, four-day trip perfect for someone who feels like they’re “over” the traditional safari game drives. It’s slackpacking, meaning you only need to carry your snacks, water and sunscreen in a bag each day, rather than lugging a tent, clothes, pots and pans, and more with you. The base is Plains Camp, an off-the-grid, unfenced tented camp in a Big Five reserve with views of the distant, blue-tinged mountains and sprawling orange-earthed plains. Walks average about eight miles each day and depart from camp, accompanied by expert guides.

Plains Camp is the base for the Cheetah Trail, though hikers also stay at more rugged bushcamps. Photo: Samra Karoo Reserve

With a minimum age of 16, Samara seemed to take safety seriously, though I still found myself wishing for my sense of long-lost teenage invincibility. There’s nothing like nearly walking up the backside of a rhino to remind you how fragile you are. Walking safaris are inherently risky, and our encounter with Grumpy was a sobering reminder of what it means to walk on the wild side.

On my second day, we left the safety of our tents and headed for the mobile camp. We set out into the wilderness again, backpacks carrying just water and light snacks as we sent a change of clothes and some overnight toiletries ahead with a support vehicle.

As I stepped over eroded soil and thorns, it blew my mind that I was on safari in the Karoo, an area now known for lamb farming and the occasional windmill. That wasn’t always the case in the Karoo, however. It once teemed with wildlife, such as black-maned lions, rhinos, elephants, cheetahs, and even the now-extinct quagga.

Hunting and overfarming destroyed the animal population (and planet), but in 1997, South African Sarah Tompkins and her husband Mark heard a story about the Karoo’s former glory days, and said their their hearts broke at the tragic loss of species. But it planted an idea. Sarah and Mark bought Apieskloof, a farm in the heart of what’s now Samara Reserve, and expanded from there. They restored 67,000 acres of land in the Karoo and slowly implemented a rehabilitation program with wildlife reintroductions. Lions, leopards, black and white rhinos, and elephants now roam Samara.

Sibella caring for one of her cubs in the Karoo. Photo: Samra Karoo Reserve

Despite the myriad wildlife, Samara has become synonymous with cheetahs, largely because of the legacy of Sibella. Sibella was a wild cheetah who survived a brutal attack by hunters and their dogs. Clinging to life, she was rescued by the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust, and brought to Samara for rehabilitation. In 2004, she stepped onto the soil as the first wild cheetah in the Karoo in 130 years. More followed, and despite her injuries, Sibella became known as the “Mother to the Karoo.” She thrived, birthing 19 cubs in her lifetime. Through this, she contributed 2.4 percent to South Africa’s wild cheetah population: a testament to how crucial cheetah conservation efforts are. Sibella died of natural causes in 2015 at the age of 14.

Elroy Pietersen, one of our trackers, remembered Sibella well. “For a few months, I followed her every day on foot,” he said, recalling her rehabilitation and how she began to hunt for herself after healing. “After her first litter, she brought her cubs to the Karoo Lodge, as if to show appreciation. She and her litter lay there, right in front, for a whole morning.” Pietersen has been at Samara since he was a teenager, now using his decades of experience to mentor younger guides and trackers — and look after city slickers like me.

I kept my eyes peeled for Samara’s famous cheetahs, though it felt like the landscape was mocking me by offering countless tortoise sightings instead. We keep to a brisk pace, moving past the sun-bleached bones of antelope carcasses. Some were intact with horns spiraling from the skulls, others scattered by predators long past.

Outdoor showers at Plains Camp put visitors in the heart if the wilderness (while naked). Photo: Samara Karoo Reserve

It’s another cat that snatched my attention soon after reaching our mobile camp, when I heard a lion’s low rumble. I was washing off beneath a tree, but we’d seen the tracks from several lions while walking earlier. After some swift mental calculations, I determined the lion to be approximately “way too close” and proceeded to take the world’s fastest bucket shower before returning to the bonfire wild-eyed (and still damp). No one else had heard the lions, meaning I am either paranoid, or the de facto best tracker in camp. I choose the latter, settling into a camper chair with a G&T.

After a delectable braaied (barbecue) dinner, I fell into my camping cot, remarkably comfortable with a mattress, covered by mosquito nets hanging from gnarled branches twisting in front of the sparkling constellations overhead. It feels utterly exposed to be under the open air in the Reserve, yet I sank into sleep, grateful to my guides for keeping watch in shifts.

Camping under the stars on the Cheetah Trail. Photo: Tayla Blaire

The next day, we returned to the wind-whipped Plains Camp, when we heard that the Kalahari Boys, a well-known duo of male cheetahs, had been spotted not far from us. Unwilling to miss our shot at seeing these exquisite, vulnerable animals during the last dregs of daylight, we opted to jump in the game vehicle. My feet whimpered their thanks at the respite, though it was mere minutes before we were climbing out again.

The plain ahead was empty, with low, grey clouds skimming the distant hilltops. Pietersen waved to our vehicle in the far distance, and we jumped out, walking single-file to him with another guide at our backs. It’s a well-rehearsed dance at this point, designed to have us emulate a wide, multi-limbed (if fairly short) tree. (I’m one with nature. I am a tree.)

I strained to spot the cheetahs on the horizon and was startled when one of the Kalahari Boys suddenly stood up, a bright, bloodied carcass dangling from his jaws. Once again, I’d been looking too far when I should have been looking just yards away. His brother stood up, too, snapping his jaws to grip what was left of the baby gemsbok. They teamed up, just as they likely did for their kill, see-sawing to rip the meat further. One thin, unravelled intestine was dangling close enough for us to touch.

Cheetah Trail visitors may be lucky enough to see the reserves resident cheetahs from a close distance. Photo: Samara Karoo Reserve

We resisted the urge. We are trees, after all.

According to Samara Karoo Reserve co-owner and founder Sarah Tompkins, the Cheetah Trail was designed to drive awareness of the plight of this endangered species. “Tracking cheetahs on foot is a deeply humbling experience that showcases the majesty of these animals and their vulnerability in the face of a changing world,” she said.

“Humbling” does seem like the correct word. Between bites, the Kalahari Boys scoped us out. Our guides remained alert, but unflappable. The cheetahs at Samara are habituated and used to humans being close, but not too close. It’s a legacy left by Sibella, who had a unique relationship with humans.

Photo: Samara Karoo Reserve

The cheetahs are far from tame and it’s essential to respect their space, but it’s the closest I’ve ever been to the endangered, magnificent animals. A thin tracking collar sat around one’s neck, serving as a reminder of the careful efforts to protect Samara’s current cheetah population of 13.

We stood there for more than an hour, watching them plough their way deeper into the carcass, blood staining their jaws and contrasting with the black tear marks running from their inner eyes to their whiskers. When we started losing light, we picked our way through the brush back to the vehicle. I’d lost sight of them already when I looked back, their camouflaged spots blending into the Karoo.

But I knew they were still there. For now, at least.

How to visit

Photo: Samara Karoo Reserve

Samara’s Cheetah Trail is a three-night, four-day trek, available between September and May. Camps have no Wi-Fi, electricity, or cell service, and hikers need to be ready to walk eight to 10 miles a day on variable terrain.

Samara also operates the Karoo Lodge, for travelers interested in visiting but not keen on bush camping. Stays include lodging, meals, and game drives.

More like thisTravel Safety8 Things I Learned While Stranded After Dark on an African Safari

From Slopes to ‘Suviche,’ Viceroy Snowmass Redefines the Luxe Ski Travel Experience

I was at the top of the High Alpine lift at Snowmass, a thick February snowfall blanketing the terrain around me, when I decided to take a “mindfulness moment.” As corny as that sounds, pausing momentarily to clear my head is a task I’ve embraced as a busy professional who’s frequently on the road, not to mention the father of a rambunctious young girl who always has me on my toes – especially when we travel together. In this particular instance, waiting for my snowboarding buddy to strap into his bindings, it wasn’t stress or anxiety that drove me to stop, but rather pride. Here I was, atop one of my favorite ski resorts, my three-year-old in a ski lesson some 1,500 vertical feet below me, and if it weren’t for the near-blizzard I’ve have been able to see the Viceroy Hotel, our accommodations for the night, and its new Cirque Tower standing against the backdrop of the White River National Forest behind it. When the opportunity came to report on Viceroy’s renovations, I insisted on bringing my daughter along, in part because it’s up in the air when I’ll get another chance to appear “so cool” to her. We both had a great day on the slopes, and shared an evening filled with Latin-inspired cuisine, plenty of time exploring the hotel’s expansive grounds, a few new stuffies, and a cameo by the inimitable PJ Masks.

We hope you love Viceroy Snowmass! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

Book Now

Viceroy Snowmass debuts massive renovations and additions for 2024-25 ski seasonThe bedroom in a one-bedroom residence in Cirque at Viceroy Snowmass. Photo courtesy Viceroy SnowmassThe kitchen in a one-bedroom residence in Cirque at Viceroy Snowmass. Photo courtesy Viceroy SnowmassThe living room and balcony in a one-bedroom residence in Cirque at Viceroy Snowmass. Photo courtesy Viceroy Snowmass

See more photos
Prior to the current ski season, Viceroy Snowmass underwent significant renovations and expansions. The property’s lobby and lounge areas have been completely reimagined, with café and bar getting a bright facelift and the adjoining lounge an excellent place for morning coffee, daytime remote work, and apres-ski cocktails. This renovation also includes a new check-in experience, a concierge center, and a real estate and retail boutique just beyond the check-in desk. As a travel editor who’s constantly on the road, I like a hotel lobby that doubles as an inspiring coworking area, and the Viceroy’s updated space is incredibly welcoming in the manner that a modern hotel’s should be – it invites you to post up over a drink and a round of emails, without feeling awkward or out of place.

The crown jewel of the hotel’s recent developments, however, is the new Cirque Tower, completed in 2024. This luxury addition to the Viceroy Snowmass complex, which also includes the Pinnacle tower, offers 48 “residences,” primarily consisting of two and three-bedroom whole-ownership condominium hotel properties, along with two exclusive four-bedroom penthouses. My daughter and I stayed in a one-bedroom residence that featured a complete kitchen and – big points here – an actual coffee maker with gourmet coffee from Rock Canyon Coffee (because nothing screams feigned opulence quite like a Keurig). There was a patio overlooking the mountains with access both from the bedroom and living room. I appreciated the workspace in the room and ample seating. My daughter, Olivia, was handed a stuffed horse immediately upon check-in, which barely left her arms throughout our stay. By the end of the evening she’d accumulated two more stuffies, making up for the fact that I’d only packed one for the trip.

The interior of CIrque at VIceroy Snowmass, like the property more broadly, focuses on inspiring spaces to lounge and socialize. Photo: Tim WengerThe interior of CIrque at VIceroy Snowmass, like the property more broadly, focuses on inspiring spaces to lounge and socialize. Photo: Tim Wenger

Located slope-side on Assay Hill, these residences boast ski-in/ski-out access and are furnished with high-end finishes including light wood flooring, natural stones, decorative porcelain tiles, and custom lighting. Owners of these residences (and single-night guests such as myself) enjoy access to a private pool and spa area, a state-of-the-art gym, ski/snowboard concierge storage, and 24-hour hotel services. Rooms at Viceroy Snowmass run anywhere from $300 to several thousand dollars per night, depending on layout and season.

These residences are perfect for multi-day or weeklong ski trips, family-style or with groups of ski buddies, as most of the trip planning experience can be handled by the hotel’s concierge. Rentals and ski storage are available on-site, and once strapped in it’s easy to ski right down to the Assay Hill lift and ride up it to move over to the Elk Camp Gondola and the rest of the mountain.

Viceroy Snowmass is LEED Gold Certified, recognized for energy efficiency, green design, and low-flow faucets. In addition, the property uses eco-friendly cleaning supplies. Luxury travel will always have an environmental impact, however major players like Viceroy being vocal advocates for sustainable development not only blends with the ethos of Aspen and Snowmass Village but speaks to an increased awareness of the need to do things right wherever possible, including in the upmarket segment.

Apres is available inside or poolside at the Nest Bar & Grill. After my day on the hill I ventured over to pick up my daughter from her ski lesson (more on that below) and the walk into the base village was quick and passed by numerous establishments serving cold beer or warmer options.

Toro at Viceroy Snowmass is refreshingly internationalDining room at Toro Snowmass. Photo courtesy Toro SnowmassThe food at Toro draws inspiration from across South America and Japan. Photo courtesy Toro Snowmass

Even if you venture offsite for happy hour, dining onsite at Viceroy at least one evening during a stay is advised. Under the leadership of Executive Chef Richard Sandoval, Viceroy pivoted its magnet dining experience to globally-inspired Latin cuisine largely influenced by the culinary traditions of Colombia, Peru, Mexico, Brazil, Venezuela, and Japan. Toro Snowmass, located in the lobby, is the latest opening of Sandoval’s restaurant group, which operates establishments under the same name in global destinations including Istanbul, Marrakesh, and Belgrade. The Snowmass offering is a beautifully refreshed elevated dining experience with seating arranged to highlight the expansive views of the Rockies extending beyond the hotel grounds. The interior calls to mind the jungles of the Amazon and the peaks of the Andes, a fitting setting for Sandoval’s Latin-rooted dishes. Peruvian cuisine in particular has been significantly influenced by Japanese immigration, creating a unique fusion known as Nikkei cuisine. This culinary blend emerged from the arrival of Japanese immigrants in Peru in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Over time, they incorporated Japanese techniques and ingredients into Peruvian food, leading to a distinctive and internationally recognized culinary style.

The menu at Toro embraces the Nikkei tradition, focusing heavily “suviche” – ceviche and sushi dishes with a wide influence, like the Acevichado Nikkei Roll and Lobster Won Ton Tacos. The dinner menu features South American dishes like the Cusco Chicken, with achiote-marinated chicken breast, or the gamey Toro Bison Burger.

The bison burger was perfectly paired with a mezcal cocktail and a house-made pickle. Photo: Tim Wenger

Toro’s cocktail menu follows suit, featuring more than 90 wines from around the globe, sake, and Latin-inspired cocktails. I paired a mezcal cocktail with a bison burger, perfect after a long day on the slopes. I found it slightly humorous that the drink menu featured a separate section for both zero-proof cocktails and mocktails – I was not previously aware there was a difference between the two, but Toro thoroughly caters to the palette of both the sober and sober-curious.

Snowmass makes it easy for families to travel on their own terms

Photo: Toasted Pictures/Shutterstock

I traveled to Snowmass with my three-year-old daughter, Olivia, and enrolled her in a ski lesson via the Treehouse Adventure Center, located in the Snowmass Village base area. Treehouse serves as a double-duty childcare center and kid lesson facility, complete with indoor playgrounds and ski rentals. Catering to kids from eight weeks to four years old, it offers full-day childcare with engaging playrooms and professional caregivers. The center operates from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM and provides snacks and lunch, though parents must supply food for infants. For toddlers aged between two-and-a-half years and three, a specialized program includes a one-hour morning ski experience combined with indoor activities. Meanwhile, children aged three to four can participate in full-day ski lessons focused Olivia did a full day, including the magic carpet and a small course that helped her build basic balancing skills on skis.

I signed Olivia up for the first-timer lesson, even though I’d previously taken her out skiing once before on a bunny slope, so that she could continue building foundational skiing skills – without getting upset with dad each time she fell. She loved it, and spent the rest of the evening talking about skiing in a manner that only a three-year-old can muster. The cost for full-day childcare is $194, while full-day ski lessons for children 3 to 4 years old are $244. Prices are subject to change, so it’s best to check with the center directly.

Unique touches at Viceroy Snowmass

Not a bad backdrop. Photo: Tim Wenger

The hotel makes playlists for various aspects of its experience. On the coffee table in my room were a collection of cards that could be scanned to access the Viceroy workout playlist on Spotify. Its website links to a more general travel mix, dubbed “A Constellation of Discovery,” featuring world tunes that I played for my daughter and I in the car on way out of Snowmass in the morning. This playlist also made for good background music while writing this article.

The only thing that caught me by surprise at Viceroy Snowmass was that the walls in my room at Cirque Viceroy weren’t thicker. I could hear the people in the next room over consistently, as well as the hustle and hustle of the valet station six floors below in the morning. Granted, much of that noise was due to the kids in the next room – our two rooms were connected via a shared door and clearly meant for larger families to co-mingle. The larger residences promise a stiller atmosphere.

Book Now

More like thisTravelSnowmass Village Is Colorado's Most Romantic Ski Destination