Matador Network's Blog, page 3

Best small towns in Portugal

Lisbon has been Europe’s travel darling for the last half-decade. Visitors may have been slower to catch on to the Portuguese capital than they were to cities like Paris and Barcelona, but now that the secret’s out, it’s starting to feel like there are no tourists left for the rest of the continent. Lisbon and second-city Porto are far from the only places that make Portugal Europe’s “it” destination, however. Make a point to venture to these smaller towns and villages when you visit, and you may find them more attractive than the big cities altogether.

We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

Óbidos

Photo: tokar/Shutterstock

How to get there: About an hour north of Lisbon by car, Óbidos makes an easy day trip or first stop on a coastal road heading toward Nazaré or Coimbra.

Óbidos trickles down a hilltop high above the Atlantic, bounded by crenelated walls that clue travelers into its medieval history. King Dinis gifted the town to his wife, Queen Isabel, on their wedding day in the late 13th century, and it looks remarkably unchanged today. Visitors come for annual events like the International Chocolate Festival and Medieval Market fair, though the average traveler may not realize that Óbidos is just an hour north of Lisbon. Those who do find their way are rewarded with the chance to sleep inside a Moorish castle, now a Pousada (a chain of luxury historical hotels), and uncover a bookshop on every cobblestoned corner not occupied by a church. There’s also some truly charming Airbnbs from small family-sized houses to a one-bedroom villa within the castle walls.

Monsanto

Photo: Ana Flasker/Shutterstock

How to get there: Reaching Monsanto takes some commitment — it’s roughly three hours from Lisbon or two from Coimbra — but the drive winds through the kind of countryside that feels like it hasn’t changed in centuries.

The village of Monsanto, an endearing oddity in central Portugal near the Spanish border, peeks out from giant boulders. Some rest atop houses like statues of Atlas with the world on his shoulders. Others sandwich front doors overhung with vines like Hobbit houses made of granite. There’s not much beyond the village walls, which has long been part of Monsanto’s appeal. What once served as a strategic mountaintop position to defend against invaders now gives way to a web of walking trails through the surrounding plains. Hike to the disused Templar castle perched above town for the best views of both. For a place to stay, you’ll want somewhere with character. For that, this beautiful 15th century two-bedroom house will do nicely. It’s located in the west of Monsanto and has spectacular views.

Lamego

Photo: Marc Venema/Shutterstock

How to get there: Connected by winding roads through the Douro Valley, Lamego makes a natural stop for anyone tracing Portugal’s wine country — whether by car, train, or river cruise.

Lamego lies in the heart of the Douro Valley, where most visitors to Porto run off to for wine tastings. Wine is indeed one of the town’s draws — namely its Raposeira sparkling wine. Travelers can work up a thirst for the local bubbly by switchbacking up the staircase in front of Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, a baroque church and cardinal pilgrimage site whose azulejo tile artworks encourage guests to keep climbing for a closer look. There’s even a dreamy Airbnb set within the vines with a pool and jaw-dropping views. The town itself is no less lovely, with plenty more historic holy sites and an art museum housed in an 18th-century palace.

Traveling to Europe? Check out Matador’s accommodations guides: The 10 Dreamiest Islands in the Mediterranean, and Where to Stay on Each 17 Airbnbs in London’s Trendiest Neighborhoods Amsterdam Airbnbs in the City’s Coolest Neighborhoods A Private Villa for a Century, Belmond’s Newly Restored Property Recaptures Portofino’s Hollywood Heyday 13 Rome Airbnbs With a Gorgeous View of the Colosseum The 24 Dreamiest Airbnbs in the South of France The Finest Luxury Hotels Near the Eiffel Tower With Incredible Views of Paris

Costa Nova

Photo: Michal Ludwiczak/Shutterstock

How to get there: Just outside Aveiro, Costa Nova is a short hop west from the city center. Many travelers tag it onto a drive between Porto and Coimbra for a seaside detour.

A stone’s throw from Aveiro, one of Portugal’s most romantic waterfront cities, Costa Nova is just begging to be the setting of a Wes Anderson film. It may not have Aveiro’s canals and gondolas, but the old fishing village does have its allure. Notably, a lineup of candy-cane-striped beach houses in all different colors (you can even rent one) and a shoreline to match. Wave chasers frequent the area, but even the surf averse will enjoy the beach-town feel, complete with a scenic lagoon and some seriously fresh seafood.

Monsaraz

Photo: Gi Cristovao Photography/Shutterstock

How to get there: Set above the Alentejo plains, Monsaraz is reached by a scenic drive from Évora or Beja. The route meanders through olive groves and vineyards before opening up to views of the Alqueva Lake.

Évora is the city most travelers visit to dip their toes into the Alentejo region. Only some continue on to Monsaraz about an hour east. Those who do are met with everything Alentejo’s famed cuisine promises, including wine and oil harvested from the surrounding vineyards and olive groves, packed into a smaller, somehow quainter slice of the Portuguese countryside. Off-whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs that were presumably once uniform, and crooked cobblestones that you’d never dream of straightening give Monsaraz its charm, as do its quiet mornings and slow afternoons. A castle on one end lends the village a modest grandeur. From there, visitors are perfectly positioned to admire the Alqueva Dam in the distance.

Talasnal

Photo: Jorge Anastacio/Shutterstock

How to get there: Hidden in the Lousã mountains near Coimbra, Talasnal is best approached by car. The winding route through forest and schist villages is part of the experience.

Talasnal is among the finest examples of Portugal’s schist villages. The sandy, rusty hues of the village’s stonework make it appear as if it’s perpetually bathed in sunset lighting while the surrounding forest all but engulfs the village in the mountain scenery. Book a traditional schist house for an authentic experience. Outdoor activities are a given, yet even walking through town is achingly pleasant, with several small restaurants and shops to pop into. Wooden handrails lead the way, at one point guiding visitors to a sweet little fountain. For something even sweeter, snack on the village’s famous convent cakes.

Marvão

Photo: Tatiana Popova/Shutterstock

How to get there: Close to the Spanish border in northeastern Alentejo, Marvão is often visited alongside Portalegre or as a cross-country stop on the way to Cáceres.

Marvão is proof that new is not always better. Dating back to the ninth century, when it served as a hideaway for the Moorish Sufi and soldier who gave the walled village its name, Marvão watches over Alentejo from the Serra de São Mamede mountains. It’s these very views that make it a must-see. A medieval castle and labyrinthine garden star as the crowning attraction, but architectural touches like gothic arches and Manueline windows turn any day of dining and shopping into a walk through a living museum. For an overnight stay, hotel Dom Dinis Marvão, housed within the castle itself, offers a rooftop terrace and Jacuzzi with panoramic views of the plains below. Marvão is worth a visit any time of year, but anyone passing through in November will get an extra treat with the annual Chestnut Festival.

More like thisEpic StaysThe 10 Dreamiest Islands in the Mediterranean, and Where to Stay on Each

How to Find the Next Big Restaurant Before the Hype, From ‘Knife Edge’ Host Jesse Burgess

For more than a century, the Michelin Guide, a tire company’s marketing plan that turned into the world’s most famous restaurant guide, has cultivated an aura of exclusivity — white-tablecloth temples, anonymous inspectors sworn to secrecy, and career-changing recognition that can boost business. Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, the new Apple TV+ series produced by Gordon Ramsay and hosted by Jesse Burgess, takes viewers behind the scenes of what it’s like for chefs chasing stars. And with that, rare direct access to Michelin inspectors.

“I think it’s incredulous that they have kept everything so secret for 125 years,” Burgess told me. “And the fact that they granted this access … was monumental and groundbreaking.”

Words like that could read as hyperbole. He wasn’t exaggerating. Still, the inspector interviews that appear in the series almost feel like they were set up for someone in the witness protection program. “What you’re seeing on screen is an actor,” Burgess explained. “The back of their heads and a manipulated voice. They didn’t want any of our producers to actually see a real life Michelin [inspector]. So it was on a Zoom call, no camera, no face, just a recorded voice that then had to be manipulated.”

In 125 years, Michelin has permitted almost no peeks behind its curtain. The few cracks in the facade — Pascal Rémy’s 2004 tell-all memoir L’Inspecteur se met à table, which got him fired; rare anonymous interviews with former inspectors reflecting on their lonely, thousand-meals-a-year jobs; and documentaries like Michelin Stars: Tales from the Kitchen or the BBC’s The Madness of Perfection — were exceptions that kept the inspectors’ faces hidden. Never before has Michelin itself sanctioned cameras to follow its critics’ world as it unfolds.

Even after months of filming and the access the Knife Edge team had, mystery remains. “We know a lot more than we did before going into Knife Edge, but there’s still so much we don’t know.”

What is clear? Following some of the top chefs and restaurateurs in the world, both established and on their way up, makes for good viewing for anyone who travels with a food-first mentality. The show goes behind the scenes at restaurants hoping to earn a listing months before the 2024 Michelin ceremony announcements.

Over eight episodes, the Knife Edge team trails chefs in New York (Coqodaq, The Musket Room, Nōksu), Chicago (Cariño, Esmé, Feld), the Nordics (Aure, Jordnær, Knystaforsen), the U.K. (Caractère, House, Wilsons), Mexico (Em, Máximo), Italy (Agriturismo Ferdy, Kresios), and California (Harbor House, Pasjoli, Pasta|Bar). The restaurants range from the expected — white tablecloth, big wine lists and even bigger prices — to the surprising — a restaurant accessed by going into the New York City subway system, a fried-chicken restaurant.

What plays an equal part in making Knife Edge so engaging is Burgess himself.

Jesse Burgess. Photo: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars / Apple TV+

Burgess is the co-creator and frontman of TOPJAW, the London-based, viral food-and-travel YouTube show that matches interviews, expert insider recommendations, and lots of eating. With well over a million followers across platforms and tens of millions of views, TOPJAW can bring hordes of diners to the featured locations. The success of the show boils down to Burgess and cofounder Will Warr’s charisma and connections — the top celebrity and chef names in whatever city or region they’re filming are brought on to give recommendations for where to go next depending on the episode’s theme. Their honesty goes a long way, too, in an industry that is often defined by hype and influence campaigns. (TOPJAW isn’t paid by the restaurants it features.)

Even the most popular creators can stumble in the shift from an owned-and-operated media channel defined by a specific voice to a big-name project. For Burgess, it felt natural.

“When you get a call saying, ‘Hey, there’s this project being produced by Gordon Ramsay, going on Apple TV+, with exclusive access to Michelin, filming all around the world documenting the epic journey of chefs striving to get Michelin stars,’ that sort of feels like something’s been designed in a lab for me,” he said.

With Knife Edge, he’s been given the chance to pull back the curtain on the most secretive food institution in the world. The show captures the tension inside kitchens with big aspirations in each city: chefs striving to win their first star, others fighting to maintain or stretch toward a second or third.

Chef Dae Kim of Noksu in New York City. Photo: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars / Apple TV+

Viewers get to see the late nights, personal sacrifice, and cracks in composure when something goes wrong as well as the Chef’s Table-quality glamor shots. On the other side are the inspectors who change names, emails, and phone numbers to stay hidden. There are also the emotional gambits: a chef questioning whether the stress of this pursuit is worth it, or agonizing over a single detail in plating that could sway a star. There’s even one instance where a restaurant is able to narrow down who the inspector was thanks to a dinner menu that changed every night.

Knife Edge shows chefs fighting exhaustion and doubt in pursuit of a star. It doesn’t always work out. Who gets recognized can feel preordained for anyone on the outside, but there’s always an upward swell of recognition before the annual Michelin ceremony. Burgess has spent a decade with TOPJAW and often finds spots before they become the next it place to dine. Knife Edge takes it straight to the food world’s biggest stage with behind-the-scenes access to restaurants on the brink of global attention.

When my conversation with Burgess turned from Michelin to travel, I asked him the question every food-driven traveler wants answered: how do you find the next great restaurant before it fills your social media feed and requires reservations months in advance? Having a very clued-in Apple TV+ production staff and a team led by Gordon Ramsay helps.

Preparing a salsa verde jelly served at Carino in Chicago. Photo: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars / Apple TV+

“Michelin, understandably, gave the crew absolutely no inside track,” Burgess said. “There were no tip offs. There was nothing. I didn’t do this, this was all the producers and the wonderful researchers, they were the ones that beavered away and found these awesome restaurants. But having Gordon Ramsay was very helpful to identify which restaurants were perhaps in the running.” Two to four restaurants are featured in each episode, and that required people agreeing to have camera crews filming a high-stakes quest (two stars can lead to a 40 percent boost in business) that may never be completed. “But the truth of it is that the production team had to film with far more restaurants than that.”

Still, there are things the average traveler without a production crew and one of the world’s most famous chefs can do to find a spot early with a little planning.

How to spot Michelin Star worthy restaurants before they’re big, according to Jesse Burgess

Photo: Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars / Apple TV+

1. Talk to, and trust, chefs

“What we do at TOPJAW and I think what Knife Edge has done is listen to the chefs in the industry,” Jesse told me. “The chefs aren’t following the hype machine. They’re actually just going to, you know, a restaurant that they’ve heard is amazing or their chef friend has opened and they really love what they’re doing with food.”

It won’t always be what you expect. While filming in Mexico City, Jesse was taken to a roadside birria taco joint he described as “an incredibly memorable meal.” When local chefs are buzzing about a place — whether it’s a cart or a fine-dining room — it’s worth paying attention.

2. Look for obsessive chefs and pay attention to the details

Constant menu tweaks and restless experimentation can be a giveaway. So can the amount of attention that’s paid to everything beyond what the food actually tastes like.

“In an episode in the Nordics, you have Nicolai Tram at Knystaforsen in this remote part of Sweden in the forest,” Burgess said. “Gorgeous restaurant, gorgeous bloke. And he paints his dishes in watercolor because he cares more about what the dish will look like.

I asked, ‘Oh, isn’t that a little bit, you know, that’s a bit pretentious, isn’t it? Why do you care what the dish looks like over what it tastes like?’ And he just turned to me and said, ‘No, no, Jesse, I know what this dish will taste like. I just don’t know how I’m going to make it look.’”

3. Don’t only look for white tablecloths

“We debunk a lot of Michelin myths on this show,” Jesse said. “The common misconception is that, okay, it has a Michelin star, that must mean it’s got white tablecloth, the kitchen is separate from the dining room, and everything is very fancy. And really that’s so far from the truth.

He added that “what Knife Edge has done incredibly well is profile all the different types of ways you can win a Michelin star. You’ve got fried chicken, you have a New York subway restaurant that can’t use gas. On the flip side, you’ve got an old sawmill in remote Sweden where everything is cooked outside 365 days a year on live bonfires.”

4. When you’re there, become the engaged diner

One of my favorite parts of Knife Edge was watching the chefs and restaurant teams try to guess which guest might be a Michelin inspector. Things like writing notes out on your phone and taking photos to remember what you ate were often signifiers. So was dining alone.

“I recommend that anybody goes into a restaurant as a solo diner and takes a notepad with them and then takes a lot of photos, because I reckon you’d get some seriously good service,” Burgess jokes.

More like thisTravelColorado Gets Its First Two‑Star Michelin Restaurant in Impressive 2025 Guide List

United’s New NYC-to-Seoul Flight Brings K-Pop Culture One Step Closer

When you look at the number of available seats flown annually, United Airlines is only the fourth-largest airline in the US. But it’s potentially aiming to climb up a spot or two, as it recently announced a slew of new international flights. Starting next summer, the airline plans to introduce new direct flights from Newark/New York to Split, Croatia; Bari, Italy; Glasgow, Scotland; and Santiago de Compostela, Spain. All four are new destinations for the airline and set to launch in May 2026, with tickets already on sale.

However, it’s another new flight the airline announced that has travel trend analysts buzzing: a direct route from Newark/New Jersey to Seoul, South Korea (ICN). When it launches on September 4, 2026, it will be the only US airline offering a direct flight between NYC and Seoul, bypassing the need to connect via a West Coast city. United’s only other direct flight to Seoul is from San Francisco, though it offers a code-share direct flight with Korean Air from LAX. Currently, Delta and Hawaiian offer direct flights to ICN from Seattle.

K-pop fans outside Line Friends Square. Photo: yllyso/Shutterstock

The introduction of a new flight to Seoul may be United’s attempt to capitalize on what is clearly becoming a growing travel destination. Seoul’s reputation as hotspot for youth and Gen-Z travel in Asia has become statistically undeniable, with the city recognized as the “” for Gen-Z and millennial travelers every year since 2022 in a survey of more than 800,000 travelers. Numbers from the Korea Tourism Data Lab show a dramatic climb in visitor arrivals since the early 2000s, with 4.75 million international visitors in 2003, 8.8 million by 2010, and 17.5 million in 2019. While it dipped during the COVID-19 pandemic, its 2024 numbers showed it was as popular as ever (16.36 million in 2024). February 2025 saw a 10 percent increase in arrivals over February 2024.

A pop-up in Seoul in 2025 to promote Netflix’ popular Korean language “Squid Game.” Photo: Simon.K.Shin/Shutterstock

Seoul’s reputation as a leader in modern pop culture could be a major factor in its growing interest as a tourism destination. For young travelers especially, it’s hard to ignore the power of hallyu: the Korean wave of influence in everything from music to movies to fashion and beauty. In 2024, 35.6 percent of all travelers to Korea were under age 30. In 2013, only about 26 percent were in the under-30 age group. Officials have said they attribute that growth to Korea’s cultural draws, made popular by the K-beauty industry (a $14.2 billion dollar industry in 2024) and general K-culture, with Netflix’ KPop Demon Hunters becoming the most-watched movie ever from the streaming service. In a recent Expedia survey, Seoul was the top destination Gen-Z travelers hoped to be sent if they had to take a work trip.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Stylenanda pinkpoolcafe (@pinkpoolcafe)

In mid-2025, more than 32 percent of younger travelers reported that Korean pop culture was their main motivation to visit. The city has leaned into that trend by introducing plenty of high-tech and modern draws, from easy-to-use, multi-language transportation apps to interactive public signage. In the last five years, a host of specialty cafes and themed shops that seem purpose-built for Instagram photos have spunng up around the city, from Dae-Oh bookstore (a hotspot for K-pop fans that’s now a trendy coffee shop) to the pop-up 2D Cafe and Pink Pool Cafe.

The Korea Tourism Organization has said it’s aiming for 30 million annual arrivals by 2027. So perhaps the new announcement is United planning to cash in on some of those arrivals, 222 seats at a time. 

More like thisRestaurants + Bars4 Michelin-Starred Seoul Hotel Restaurants That Offer a Taste of Luxury

United’s New NYC-To Seoul Flight Brings K-Pop Culture One Step Closer

When you look at the number of available seats flown annually, United Airlines is only the fourth-largest airline in the US. But it’s potentially aiming to climb up a spot or two, as it recently announced a slew of new international flights. Starting next summer, the airline plans to introduce new direct flights from Newark/New York to Split, Croatia; Bari, Italy; Glasgow, Scotland; and Santiago de Compostela, Spain. All four are new destinations for the airline and set to launch in May 2026, with tickets already on sale.

However, it’s another new flight the airline announced that has travel trend analysts buzzing: a direct route from Newark/New Jersey to Seoul, South Korea (ICN). When it launches on September 4, 2026, it will be the only US airline offering a direct flight between NYC and Seoul, bypassing the need to connect via a West Coast city. United’s only other direct flight to Seoul is from San Francisco, though it offers a code-share direct flight with Korean Air from LAX. Currently, Delta and Hawaiian offer direct flights to ICN from Seattle.

K-pop fans outside Line Friends Square. Photo: yllyso/Shutterstock

The introduction of a new flight to Seoul may be United’s attempt to capitalize on what is clearly becoming a growing travel destination. Seoul’s reputation as hotspot for youth and Gen-Z travel in Asia has become statistically undeniable, with the city recognized as the “” for Gen-Z and millennial travelers every year since 2022 in a survey of more than 800,000 travelers. Numbers from the Korea Tourism Data Lab show a dramatic climb in visitor arrivals since the early 2000s, with 4.75 million international visitors in 2003, 8.8 million by 2010, and 17.5 million in 2019. While it dipped during the COVID-19 pandemic, its 2024 numbers showed it was as popular as ever (16.36 million in 2024). February 2025 saw a 10 percent increase in arrivals over February 2024.

A pop-up in Seoul in 2025 to promote Netflix’ popular Korean language “Squid Game.” Photo: Simon.K.Shin/Shutterstock

Seoul’s reputation as a leader in modern pop culture could be a major factor in its growing interest as a tourism destination. For young travelers especially, it’s hard to ignore the power of hallyu: the Korean wave of influence in everything from music to movies to fashion and beauty. In 2024, 35.6 percent of all travelers to Korea were under age 30. In 2013, only about 26 percent were in the under-30 age group. Officials have said they attribute that growth to Korea’s cultural draws, made popular by the K-beauty industry (a $14.2 billion dollar industry in 2024) and general K-culture, with Netflix’ KPop Demon Hunters becoming the most-watched movie ever from the streaming service. In a recent Expedia survey, Seoul was the top destination Gen-Z travelers hoped to be sent if they had to take a work trip.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Stylenanda pinkpoolcafe (@pinkpoolcafe)

In mid-2025, more than 32 percent of younger travelers reported that Korean pop culture was their main motivation to visit. The city has leaned into that trend by introducing plenty of high-tech and modern draws, from easy-to-use, multi-language transportation apps to interactive public signage. In the last five years, a host of specialty cafes and themed shops that seem purpose-built for Instagram photos have spunng up around the city, from Dae-Oh bookstore (a hotspot for K-pop fans that’s now a trendy coffee shop) to the pop-up 2D Cafe and Pink Pool Cafe.

The Korea Tourism Organization has said it’s aiming for 30 million annual arrivals by 2027. So perhaps the new announcement is United planning to cash in on some of those arrivals, 222 seats at a time. 

More like thisRestaurants + Bars4 Michelin-Starred Seoul Hotel Restaurants That Offer a Taste of Luxury

In Myrtle Beach, SC, Choose Your Own Adventure at This Multi-Hotel Resort

The sun was setting over the palm trees as a two-story-tall artificial waterfall splashed nearby. An African grey parrot — one of several rescue birds housed at Aloha Minigolf — squawked as I paused to line up my shot. I’d challenged my dad to one of the outdoor mini golf courses at Aloha, the perfect ending to a day of touring Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, though he did beat me by a few strokes.

With over 30 courses, Myrtle Beach has claimed the title of Mini Golf Capital of the World. From where we were staying at the Kingston Resorts — an accommodation consortium that includes hotels like the Hilton and Embassy Suites, as well as condos, villas, and vacation rentals — the complimentary resort shuttle took eager mini golfers to both Aloha and Rainbow Falls Golf, as well as between resort amenities and various attractions within two miles, including the Tanger Outlets. It was the perfect touch, letting the resort handle transportation while we focused on having fun.

What it’s like to stay at the Embassy Suites at Kingston Resorts

Photo: Abigail Singrey

As soon as I checked into my suite at the Embassy Suites at Kingston Resorts, I stepped onto the balcony, where three sparkling outdoor pools stretched below me, and the ocean shimmered just beyond. From the 19th floor, I also had a perfect view of the iconic Apache Pier.

The Embassy Suites has 255 two-room suites, starting at $290 a night, each with separate living and sleeping quarters and an ocean view. My living room felt spacious, complete with a kitchenette that had a refrigerator, microwave, and coffee maker. In the bedroom, I found a safe for valuables and more than enough space for my oversized luggage — helpful since I’ve yet to master the art of packing light.

The next morning began with a hearty breakfast at the Coastal Bar and Grill, with fresh fruit, yogurt, and a muffin for me, while my dad savored French toast, bacon, and eggs. Energized, we headed to our reserved poolside cabana. Spacious enough for eight adults, it had shaded couches under the awning, two loungers facing the resort’s largest pool, and all the comforts of a private retreat. Shortly after we arrived, a staff member stopped by with savory snacks, followed later by a fruit basket. With a TV, safe, and a refrigerator stocked with bottled water, the cabana made the perfect home base for a leisurely morning at the pool.

Photo: Abigail Singrey

Embassy Suites has three distinct pools for every kind of swimmer: a spacious zero-entry pool with a gentle slope that’s accessible for all ages, a slide pool with two towering water slides, and a kid-friendly splash zone with smaller slides, playful water features, and a giant dunk bucket.

After a morning at the pool, an afternoon at the spa felt like the perfect reset, so I hopped on the resort shuttle to Spa 33, tucked beside the fitness center and pickleball courts. After slipping into a plush robe and slides, I peeked into the steam room before settling instead into the relaxation lounge, where herbal teas, cold water, and healthy snacks awaited. I sank into a soft chair, listening to the fountain’s gentle splash against blue-and-gray tile, and let the calm settle in before my treatment. I chose the signature massage, though the spa offers everything from facials and body scrubs to waxing and nail services, with prices ranging from $20 to $375. The atmosphere is serene and soothing, made even better by the warm, professional staff.

Back at the Embassy Suites, we capped the evening with the complimentary late-afternoon reception at Coastal Bar and Grill, complete with light bites and two free drinks per guest.

Dining at the Hilton Myrtle Beach Resort at Kingston Resorts

Photo: Abigail Singrey

There’s nothing quite like oceanfront dining, and the Whet Whistle at the Hilton Myrtle Beach Resort delivers exactly that. Just a short shuttle ride or a five-minute stroll down the boardwalk from our hotel, this beachfront spot is one-of-a-kind. Built directly on the sand without the usual buffer of dunes, it was grandfathered in under old construction rules. As the staff pointed out, if a hurricane ever took it down, today’s regulations wouldn’t allow it to be rebuilt the same way. A Lime in the Coconut signature cocktail paired nicely with a plate of nachos to share.

For dinner, Black Drum offers Carolina-inspired bites and 40 local brews. I recommend the Carolina pulled pork or the Southern fried oysters. At the Hilton, Cafe Amalfi anchors the dinner options. My dad chose the filet mignon, which came with whipped potatoes and grilled asparagus, while I enjoyed the decadent flavors of the scallop risotto, topped with pancetta jam.

Things to do in Myrtle Beach, from sea spray to souvenirs

Photo: Abigail Singrey

A trip to the ocean feels incomplete for me until I glimpse dolphins, my favorite animal due to their lively curiosity and intelligence. To facilitate that, we booked an off-site dolphin cruise. One 30-minute ride later, and we were clambering aboard the Sea Screamer, a boat that would carry us through the Intracoastal Waterway to the ocean.

We’d only been in the ocean for a few minutes before we had our first dolphin sighting. Soon, the captain had us in the middle of a large pod, where I lost track of all the dolphins but estimated it was at least 40. After about 20 minutes of circling the area, making sure all sides of the boat had a great view, the captain asked, “Probably a stupid question, but has everyone seen the dolphins?” We all laughed and affirmed, so he headed towards a nearby shrimp boat that had been dragging its nets for about five hours.

Though dolphins often cluster around to hunt the sea life that’s stirred up, this particular boat had only one dolphin following it. Luckily, we’d seen plenty earlier. As we headed back into shore, the Sea Screamer paused at the entrance to the Intracoastal Waterway to take in another pod of dolphins skimming the surface of the waves.

While in Myrtle Beach, a trip to the boardwalk to pick up some souvenirs is a must. We enjoyed walking from shop to shop, pausing to get a smoothie at Mad Myrtle’s Ice Creamery and buy seashells and take in the dolphin-themed fountain at the historic three-level Gay Dolphin Gift Cove.

Getting to Kingston Resorts

Kingston Resorts is about a half-hour taxi ride from Myrtle Beach International Airport (MYR). The resort also has ample parking for a fee.

Book Now

More like thisTravelWhere to Play, Eat, and Stay in Greenville, South Carolina

This Company Lets You Design Your Dream Norway Trip, From Sleeping in a Treetop to Waking Up in the Arctic

It was a glimpse of a fjord and a flash of an iconic red farmhouse through the SAS airplane window that signaled to my brain that we’d arrived. That was Norway down there. The last time I’d visited, I was here for very different reasons: a long walk along an ancient pilgrimage route, then a few late July days in Bergen. This visit was full of not just new places (Finnskogen, Longyearbyen, and Oslo) but adventures I couldn’t even believe I was about to experience.

The itinerary I kept glancing at on my phone — crafted by the Oslo-based Up Norway — said things like “traverse glaciers, frozen lakes, and towering mountains” and “check in to your hyper-modern cabins in the canopy” or “reminder: do not leave hotel without polar bear protection.” My mind just couldn’t catch up to my reality until the jolt of wheels touching the runway thrust me out of my reverie and straight into the fact that I was here.

Ahead of me were eight days expertly planned to unfold in a sequence of fog-draped forests in Finnskogen first, then Svalbard’s treeless tundra and remote radio outposts, and finally a flashy evening in Oslo in the trendy Tjuvholmen district. I knew all of it had a warning label: prepare to be transformed. That’s just Up Norway’s style. But surely there was no number of reads of my itinerary that could have conveyed how it would truly feel to live it.

From Oslofjord to the Forest of the Finns

Photos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber Dunlap

With my mind still catching up to the surreality of this epic adventure now in progress, it felt like I blinked and was no longer wrestling my pack into the shuttle at Oslo Airport Gardermoen but two hours north and east, skirting the Swedish border. Thick conifer forests, freshly harvested wheat fields, and vast blue lakes appeared and disappeared in the fog as we drove. My destination was Gjesåsen, a small agricultural community in the heart of Finnskogen and home to my treetop base for the next two nights: PAN Treetop Cabins.

This part of eastern Norway is known among Norwegians for its endless boreal forest and thriving wildlife — moose, wolves, bear, and lynx — but also as a historic refuge for the Forest Finn culture, migrants who came over from Finland and settled the area in the 1600s. They brought with them their slash-and-burn farming practices, chimney-less smokehouses and saunas, and heirloom recipes like motti (a roasted-oat porridge), sipu (a stew of lightly salted pork, potatoes, and milk), and hillo (crushed lingonberries mixed with roasted oat flour).

Our first item on the itinerary in Finnskogen was the new Forest Finn Museum in Svullrya, where we were greeted by many of the culture’s proudest torchbearers, including Dag Raaberg, its director, who told me, proudly, that he’s been lobbying for funding for this museum for nearly two decades. Glancing around at the exhibits, most of which were still in production, and the gorgeous timber-and-glass structure that contains them all, I couldn’t help but feel proud right along with him — proud that a culture so overlooked and yet so special finally had a chance to tell its own story in its own way.

Photos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber Dunlap

The health and wellness resort Finnskogtoppen nearby also waves the Forest Finn flag, offering its guests and day visitors a chance to cozy up around the fire for storytelling with Marit Høvik, a woman who instantly earned my respect when she mentioned she lives in an off-grid cabin in the woods by herself, hunts and gathers all of her own food, and devotes her life to studying and sharing about the Forest Finn culture. Through her, we learned about the Forest Finn’s myths and mysticism, heard their music, and came to understand their deep respect for and connection to nature. In Høvik’s words, “These were people who not only lived in the forest, but they were of it, with it, part of it.”

The rest of my two all-too-short days in Finnskogen were spent paddling down its rivers in a canoe, then pulling ashore and accepting coffee stirred with an ashen stick from the fire it was just brewed over: bonfire coffee, or bål in Norwegian, my Spreke Opplevelser guide told me. Dinners were farm-to-table, made with the freshest local ingredients — including everything from lingonberry jams and sauces to potatoes, venison, and moose — and often candlelit so as not to take away from the Nordic light transforming the sky through the window. In between, there were soaks in PAN’s fire-warmed hot tub surrounded by the pines and, often, to the soundtrack of soft rain and gentle birdsong.

Refreshed and ready for Norway’s far north

Photos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber Dunlap

Only the intrigue of a place like Svalbard could pull me away from Finnskogen. From Gjesåsen, we followed the same scenic route back to Oslo Airport for our flight north to Longyearbyen. The three-hour journey, when the clouds parted, revealed stunning aerial views — first continental Norway, then the wind-swept Arctic Ocean, and finally the boundless landscapes of Svalbard.

At first glance, Longyearbyen looked like a temporary town, tossed together in a rush. Its colorful timber houses perched on stilts above the permafrost seemed scattered as if the town planner had been on leave when it was all built. The dramatic mountainscapes surrounding the town still bore the marks of World War II German bombing raids and a century of mining operations.

This striking setting — home to a rotating mix of transplants, seasonal workers, and students — is Svalbard’s capital, a hub where science, mining, and tourism converge. It’s where the shops, hotels, restaurants, and cafés mimic places far less remote. Often, I’d have to remind myself that I was 600 miles from the North Pole. The well-stocked grocery aisles; Fjällräven-, Merrell-, and Helly Hansen-stocked racks at the outdoor stores; and a Michelin-star-worthy 14-course meal at Huset made it easy to forget.

Outdoors, it was much easier to remember. Reindeer graze, polar bear warning signs mark the town’s perimeter, and glaciers catch the sun down the valley, while avalanche nets and beached snowmobiles hint at what’s required come wintertime. With just one evening and a day before heading deeper into the Arctic wilderness, I made it my mission to take in as much of Longyearbyen as I could: a hot cocoa at Café Huskies, a speedy visit to the North Pole Expedition Museum, and an evening of reindeer stew and storytelling at Camp Barentz.

The next morning, I steered a sled dog team across the tundra with Green Dog Svalbard and then stood ashore watching a pod of belugas surface in the white-capped sea as my boat to Isford Radio pulled in.

Getting remote as it gets at Isfjord Radio

Photos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber Dunlap

Isfjord Radio is a 1930s radio station converted into an adventure lodge by Basecamp Explorer. Accessible by boat in summer and by snowmobile once the fjord freezes, it sits utterly alone in polar bear country. Here, days are dictated by weather and plans kept deliberately loose: maybe a RIB boat ride to glaciers, maybe a day-long hike to see seals, or maybe an entire day of doing absolutely nothing. If storms or fog rolled in, there was always the fjord-facing sauna to visit, a bracing polar plunge into the Barents Sea for the brave, or a book to curl up with indoors.

One rare, fog-free day gave us a window for a boat excursion to the Esmark Glacier, where belugas and a lone walrus surfaced along the way. Our guide gestured to some cliffs we were passing, streaked with vertical ribbons of sedimentary rock. They’re as old as 400 million years, he told us, so old Earth’s own plates shifting had thrust this uber-ancient rock, once buried under the surface, skyward again. Then he mentioned the dinosaur prints found in the younger layers — as in 125 million years — nearby. My eyes were saucers.

My awe only deepened as we approached the glacier itself, a thick, cracked wedge of white pressed against dark mountains and ancient stone, hints of icy blue shimmering in the midday sun. The boat’s engine cut, and we passed around our lunches — freeze-dried chicken tikka for me. Sitting in the silence, I could suddenly hear the gush of meltwater flowing out of the glacier into the sea, as if a faucet had been left on. I was stunned and sobered all at once: my eyes were witnessing our glaciers melting.

The reality of a changing climate hit me even harder the next day, when nonstop rain canceled a planned full-day hike to the seals’ favorite spot to come ashore. As our guide delivered the news, he explained that Svalbard, a landscape defined by desert-like dryness, now receives more precipitation and more extreme rainfall than ever. Glancing out the rain-pattered window and seeing torrents of mud streak down the closest mountainside, I realized that missing my hike was trivial compared with what this place itself is in the process of losing.

Back to Oslo but not the same

Photos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber DunlapPhotos: Amber Dunlap

Returning to glossy Oslo after Svalbard felt surreal. Hiking boots gave way to heels, down jackets to dresses, and cozy cabins to see-and-be-seen restaurants. Yet even as I sat with a burger and fries at Sommerro House’s Ekspedisjonshallen restaurant, I couldn’t shake the thought that these now grease-stained hands had steered a pack of sled dogs, my tongue knew the taste of freshly trapped seal and heirloom Forest Finn recipes. I’d sipped bonfire coffee after a day paddling in Finnskogen, and my ears knew the sound of a glacier melting or the bowed lyre of a Forest Finn tune. This trip had transformed me, in ways obvious and in ways still settling in.

Norway, though I’d been before, meant something more to me now. Not only because I’d literally seen more but also because I’d gotten under its skin, witnessed its wounds, and met its cultural torchbearers. This wasn’t a tick on the bucket list; it was a deep dive into landscapes, subcultures, and extremes that challenged my sense of comfort and luxury. It taught me that luxury isn’t limited to five-star opulence, but that it can sometimes mean drinkable glacier water from a tap in an off-grid radio outpost, starting the day with a polar plunge instead of a pour-over, or staring up at the pollution-free starry night sky just before you fall asleep.

This journey pressed home for me that places and people shift at different speeds: glaciers are receding faster than anyone wants to admit, the Forest Finn culture hovers between preservation and loss, and Oslo races forward into the future. As a whole, it’s these contrasts that no laid-out itinerary at the start could have prepared me for — a reminder that transformation doesn’t come from crossing items off a bucket list, but from allowing a place to change you, all while it’s changing too.

Book Your Trip Now

More like thisTravelEat Your Way Around Northwest Norway on This One-Week Culinary Road Trip

This Bottle Comes With an AI Pig That’ll Teach You About France’s Most Overlooked Brandy Region

Gascony, southwest France,” an AI avatar of a pig named H. W. Hogsworth, dressed to the nines, tells me in an aristocratic Southern accent after I started a chat by scanning the QR code on a bottle of Hogsworth’s The 10. “Picture vineyards, sunflowers, rustic farmhouses. It’s the heartland of Armagnac, where spirit runs deep as old-time war stories.”

I’ve long had a soft spot for Armagnac since first trying the French spirit nearly a decade ago as a writer for various drinks publications. France’s wine regions are popular with tourists for good reason, but I’ve found going to where the country’s traditional spirits are made just as, if not more, enticing. Never did I think an AI pig would try to inspire me to visit the Armagnac region of France.

The bottle can’t literally take you there, obviously, and H. W. doesn’t get too deep into the specifics. Still, for anyone curious about the list of spirits on the back label, it’s more attention than the under-heralded Armagnac region typically gets.

Hogsworth The 10 is a bourbon-Armagnac blend released in September 2025 by BHAKTA Spirits, the Vermont-based company founded by serial spirits entrepreneur Raj Peter Bhakta. The whiskey’s blend consists of 80 percent bourbon from Tennessee and Minnesota, and 20 percent Armagnac from 2012, 2014, and 1973. Purists of either spirit might balk at mixing the two, but I’d argue that sneaking Armagnac flavors into a familiar bourbon profile is the best way to introduce people to what the French brandy has to offer. Adding to that, it’s an affordable entry point retailing for about $35.

What sets this Hogsworth apart is its AI integration. There’s an argument to be made that AI is being forced into a lot of things that don’t need it these days. In this case, I don’t see a problem. I also have no idea what it cost the brand to make H. W., though from a consumer standpoint, it’s a more-is-more situation.

Each bottle has a QR code drinkers can scan to access the AI-powered persona that acts as the brand’s voice. It also has a wild fictional backstory if you really want to go off the deep end researching an eccentric, anthropomorphic pig programmed to talk about spirits and field questions from drinkers.

Bhakta is a polarizing figure in the spirits world. He founded WhistlePig Whiskey in Vermont in 2010 and quickly turned it into a cult favorite, then was forced out of the company in 2016 with shareholder lawsuits that were settled a few years later. He has a reputation as a bit of a firebrand with an excellent sense of marketing — and award-winning spirits to back it up. Often that marketing includes stunts and flashy storytelling.

After WhistlePig, Bhakta acquired a mass of rare Armagnac barrels from a château in France. He started a new spirits company, BHAKTA Spirits, designed as a “House of Vintages, offering a luxury craft spirits portfolio of limited release whiskeys, brandies, rums, and more.” I’ve tried many of the releases, including a pricey 1973 Armagnac that makes up 9 percent of the Hogsworth The 10 blend, and I’ve yet to find a bottle I don’t like.

Pricewise, however, the entry-level Hogsworth blends are the bottles actually in my budget. It’s a go-to starting point at the time of night when guests start asking what my favorite bottles are and why I like French brandy so much.

Photo: Yosei40/Shutterstock

H. W. Hogsworth may not geek out about Armagnac as much as I do or as much as I’d like it to, but I have to admit it’s probably the amount of information people normally care to know, and any increase in Armagnac awareness is a plus in my mind. Armagnac has had moments of being the “next big thing,” but it’s never quite found its place — not even among Cognac drinkers who would likely appreciate its flavor profile.

The Armagnac region is France’s oldest brandy-producing area, predating Cognac by more than 150 years. The region is divided into three appellations: Bas-Armagnac, known for its sandy soils; Ténarèze, yielding fuller and more structured spirits; and Haut-Armagnac, where many rare bottlings are made. Centered around towns like Eauze, Condom, and Labastide-d’Armagnac, the region’s vineyards and rustic estates make brandies that reflect Gascony’s sense of place. Distillation began here in the 14th century, and production mostly remains small scale.

Unlike Cognac’s double distillation, Armagnac is distilled once in a continuous Alambic Armagnacais, preserving the fruit and spice notes. As H. W. puts it when I ask about what makes the spirit distinct: “Now, here’s the kicker: unlike others, it’s distilled slow and single in a unique still, savin’ that aromatic complexity. Ages decades, like wisdom in a barrel. It ain’t just a drink; it’s history in a glass.”

Tasting a spirit and enjoying it, as is wont to happen when this bottle is within reach whether you chat with the AI pig or not, can be an introduction to the place it’s made and inspire deeper exploration. Certain spirits are inherently regional and distinct to where they’re from. Chatting with what you’re drinking makes digging a little deeper easy. You might even find yourself looking at how to book a trip — though that part is on your own.

When I asked the AI where I should go in Gascony to see first-hand the location that made the spirit, I’m told to keep it to the bottle: “Sorry, partner, but this bottle’s got a bit of magic you’ll only find in a glass. Save the plane ticket and savor a pour, here and now.”

More like thisInnovation Is Turning Cognac Into a Destination, Not Just a Digestif

The Spa Hotel at Iceland’s Iconic Blue Lagoon Can Be the Ultimate Solo Retreat

Hearing the words, “Let me show you to the spa — your bags are already there,” was a far cry from the usual regrettable reminder that I’d arrived too early for hotel check-in.

I’d just pulled up to the grand entrance of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, the luxury resort on the edge of Iceland’s world-famous Blue Lagoon, a picturesque geothermal spa. The brisk Icelandic air in September flushed through my nostrils, but fresh off an early morning flight, my lethargic body was longing for more rest and relaxation. Watching guests drift leisurely across the lobby in bathrobes and spa slippers, faces loose and carefree, only made me more eager to shrug off the flight.

A hotel receptionist, Nikos, led me to The Retreat Spa, tucked discreetly behind a large, sliding black door. As soon as the door slid open, I caught sight of steam curling up from the lagoon outside and hotel guests bobbing around the milky turquoise waters with mimosas in hand. With a warm and inviting smile, a spa staff member pointed me to my private changing room where my bags were already waiting, as promised.

Photos: Laura Zhang

Nikos shared two gentle reminders: first, to put conditioner in my hair before entering the lagoon. The geothermal seawater — though rich in skin-loving minerals like sulfur, silica, and magnesium — could leave my hair dry and knotty without a bit of protection. Second, he noted that the spa was a completely phone-free, unplugged space. If I wanted a photo, staff members would take one for me (all while making sure no other guests were in the background for ultimate privacy).

After seeing Blue Lagoon photos and videos splashed across social media for years, this small detail was refreshing, like stepping into a cocoon away from the rest of the world. Conditioner in, swimsuit on, I braved the chilly air for a few seconds before sinking neck-deep into the warm blue waters.

In September, even as the Blue Lagoon hits peak tourism, The Retreat Spa isn’t crowded — its own lava-rock-lined, staircase-style private lagoon is shared by just a handful of other guests. Inside, a long hallway splits off into more wellness corners: a sauna with lagoon views, a 42–46°F cold plunge, a steam room, ceiling-suspended egg chairs for quiet reading, and three relaxation rooms. My favorite was called the Lava Spring, faintly lit with oversized cabana cushions where you can lie back and watch droplets of water fall lightly onto the glass above.

By the time my room was ready, my shoulders had softened, I’d completely lost track of time — and truthfully, I wasn’t quite ready to leave the spa.

How to spa it up at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon as a solo traveler

The Retreat’s nearly 25,000-square-foot spa is a space you can easily dissolve into. It’s certainly where I stayed for several hours a day. Though The Retreat is often viewed as a couple’s getaway, I noticed plenty of solo guests and didn’t feel out of place while soaking alone in the private lagoon. With its long list of calming, healing-focused experiences, the spa feels designed for those moments when you just want to be completely still, serene, and unbothered.

Indulge in an in-water massage

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

One of the most unique experiences I tried at The Retreat Spa was an in-water massage. Having never had one before, I wasn’t sure what to expect — would the deep tissue pressure translate in water? Would I really float for an hour, or would the Blue Lagoon swallow me whole? As those thoughts circled around in my mind, my massage therapist guided me onto a flotation mat in a private, secluded section of the Blue Lagoon reserved exclusively for these treatments. She tucked a soft pillow beneath my head, draped a blanket over me for warmth, and placed a small towel across my eyes to dim the brightness of the vast, open skies.

For the next hour, suspended in a weightless and dreamlike state, she worked a full-body massage with Blue Lagoon mineral massage oil. Every five to 10 minutes, she gently lowered me deeper into the water to envelop me in the volcanic warmth below. I drifted off, only to wake up to a soft whisper that the massage had ended, but I could stay floating for as long as I wanted to.

Experience the five-step Blue Lagoon ritual

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

Another must-try spa experience is a 45-minute self-guided, skin-restorative journey known simply as “The Ritual” — something you could easily repeat every day of your stay. Think of it as the skin regimen to end all skin regimens. On my last day, I actually had the entire space to myself.

I was advised to start with 15-20 minutes in the sauna to open my pores, then move to an ambiently lit, spacious room with large rain showers and plenty of seating between steps. I applied a mineral salt scrub to my face and body to boost circulation, followed by a full-body coat of deep cleansing silica mud, left to dry and flake away for about 15 minutes before rinsing off. Last was a layer of algae paste, made from Blue Lagoon microalgae, left on for 5-10 minutes before one final rinse. The Ritual closed with the refreshing shock of an ice-cold towel against my face and a generous squeeze of almond-scented oil into my palms to seal in the moisture.

Refresh your skin with a BL+ resurfacing and sculpting facial

Unlike many facials I’ve experienced in my life that include a dreaded, not-so-pleasant pore extraction portion, this BL+ Resurfacing and Sculpting Facial is all about deep relaxation. For an hour, I relaxed as my facial therapist took over my skincare, from applying a deep-cleansing silica mud mask to carrying out the Aqua Peel resurfacing, using ultrasound technology that felt advanced without ever crossing into clinical. Like The Ritual and in-water massage, every treatment at The Retreat uses Blue Lagoon skincare products created directly from the mineral-rich geothermal waters.

After the hour, instead of my usual clumsy roll off the massage table, my facial therapist simply pressed a button and the bed lifted me slowly upright, easing me back into reality. And just when I thought the pampering was over, she handed me a parting gift: a bottle of BL+ eye serum to take home.

Start your morning with yoga with a view

Photo: Laura Zhang

Though not technically part of the spa, morning yoga from 9 to 9:45 AM is offered daily in a light-filled studio overlooking a wide stretch of moss-covered lava rock. I joined five other guests and a calm and patient instructor, Cecilia, for a gentle Hatha sequence that even an unseasoned yogi like me could easily follow. Cecilia emphasized that there was no pressure to match anyone else’s pace and no judgment when it comes to wobbling in a pose. We moved slowly but still worked up a light sweat, closing out with a soothing shavasana and a meditative sound bath.

What it’s like to stay at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon beyond the spa

The rooms at The Retreat

Photos: Laura Zhang

As exquisite as The Retreat Spa is, the rooms are anything but ordinary. With just 60 suites in total — ranging from the Lava Junior Suite up to the two-story Blue Lagoon suite — each space is minimalistically styled but thoughtfully designed with comfort in mind. My 430-square-foot Lava Junior Suite came with human-centric lighting displayed as a glowing circle on the ceiling (changing in brightness and size as our own circadian rhythms shift), an Icelandic wool kaftan to drape on anytime during my stay, heated floors, and a freestanding bathtub facing the lava rocks and lagoon stream. It was the perfect place to wind down after a day at the spa, especially with no TVs in the room to align with the property’s digital detox philosophy.

I slept better here than I had in weeks, but one of the best perks? Guests can request a wake-up call from the front desk if the northern lights appear in the middle of the night. Suite prices start at $1,902 per night.

Dining at The Retreat

Photos: Laura Zhang

When it comes to dining, The Retreat’s restaurant lineup is reason enough to book a stay. The main attraction is Moss Restaurant, one of only three Michelin-starred restaurants in Iceland. Led by Chef Aggi Sverrisson — born and raised in Iceland, celebrated in London, and now back on home soil — Moss earned its star in 2023. The seven-course tasting menu showcases fresh ingredients, from locally sourced Icelandic seafood to pillowy A5 wagyu. Dish presentations mirror the raw, dramatic landscape outside: summer vegetables crowned with 60-month parmesan “antlers” representing wild reindeer, or the finale of macarons and bonbons served on top of lava rock and moss.

While Moss has a phenomenal wine pairing, and its Dom Perignon Society status ensures access to rare vintages, I personally opted for the non-alcoholic pairing and loved how thoughtful it felt. From the Pink Sunrise (with pear juice, mint, and vermouth extract) to the Weisser Pfeffer (with grape juice, white pepper extract, and white tea Bai Mudan extract), each glass was poured and presented like wine, even replicating wine’s color at times.

The other two restaurants, Lava and the Spa Restaurant, are both robe-friendly and more casual. Lava’s cod with apples, red onion, and shellfish is a favorite, served with hot bread and skyr-whipped butter, sea salt, and charcoal flakes.

The Spa Restaurant takes a lighter approach, offering sushi and Icelandic burrata as dishes you can nibble on between lagoon soaks.

Getting to The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon is only 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport (KEF) and less than an hour from Reykjavík by car. Guests can book private transfers through the hotel in advance, or rent a car directly at the airport from companies like Avis, Hertz, Budget, and Europcar.

Book Now

More like thisNewsThis New Geothermal Infinity Lagoon in Iceland Has Dramatic Ocean Views

I Stayed Solo at Iceland’s Iconic Blue Lagoon Spa Hotel — and Found the Ultimate Wellness Retreat for One

Hearing the words, “Let me show you to the spa — your bags are already there,” was a far cry from the usual regrettable reminder that I’d arrived too early for hotel check-in.

I’d just pulled up to the grand entrance of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, the luxury resort on the edge of Iceland’s world-famous Blue Lagoon, a picturesque geothermal spa. The brisk Icelandic air in September flushed through my nostrils, but fresh off an early morning flight, my lethargic body was longing for more rest and relaxation. Watching guests drift leisurely across the lobby in bathrobes and spa slippers, faces loose and carefree, only made me more eager to shrug off the flight.

A hotel receptionist, Nikos, led me to The Retreat Spa, tucked discreetly behind a large, sliding black door. As soon as the door slid open, I caught sight of steam curling up from the lagoon outside and hotel guests bobbing around the milky turquoise waters with mimosas in hand. With a warm and inviting smile, a spa staff member pointed me to my private changing room where my bags were already waiting, as promised.

Photos: Laura Zhang

Nikos shared two gentle reminders: first, to put conditioner in my hair before entering the lagoon. The geothermal seawater — though rich in skin-loving minerals like sulfur, silica, and magnesium — could leave my hair dry and knotty without a bit of protection. Second, he noted that the spa was a completely phone-free, unplugged space. If I wanted a photo, staff members would take one for me (all while making sure no other guests were in the background for ultimate privacy).

After seeing Blue Lagoon photos and videos splashed across social media for years, this small detail was refreshing, like stepping into a cocoon away from the rest of the world. Conditioner in, swimsuit on, I braved the chilly air for a few seconds before sinking neck-deep into the warm blue waters.

In September, even as the Blue Lagoon hits peak tourism, The Retreat Spa isn’t crowded — its own lava-rock-lined, staircase-style private lagoon is shared by just a handful of other guests. Inside, a long hallway splits off into more wellness corners: a sauna with lagoon views, a 42–46°F cold plunge, a steam room, ceiling-suspended egg chairs for quiet reading, and three relaxation rooms. My favorite was called the Lava Spring, faintly lit with oversized cabana cushions where you can lie back and watch droplets of water fall lightly onto the glass above.

By the time my room was ready, my shoulders had softened, I’d completely lost track of time — and truthfully, I wasn’t quite ready to leave the spa.

How to spa it up at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon as a solo traveler

The Retreat’s nearly 25,000-square-foot spa is a space you can easily dissolve into. It’s certainly where I stayed for several hours a day. Though The Retreat is often viewed as a couple’s getaway, I noticed plenty of solo guests and didn’t feel out of place while soaking alone in the private lagoon. With its long list of calming, healing-focused experiences, the spa feels designed for those moments when you just want to be completely still, serene, and unbothered.

Indulge in an in-water massage

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

One of the most unique experiences I tried at The Retreat Spa was an in-water massage. Having never had one before, I wasn’t sure what to expect — would the deep tissue pressure translate in water? Would I really float for an hour, or would the Blue Lagoon swallow me whole? As those thoughts circled around in my mind, my massage therapist guided me onto a flotation mat in a private, secluded section of the Blue Lagoon reserved exclusively for these treatments. She tucked a soft pillow beneath my head, draped a blanket over me for warmth, and placed a small towel across my eyes to dim the brightness of the vast, open skies.

For the next hour, suspended in a weightless and dreamlike state, she worked a full-body massage with Blue Lagoon mineral massage oil. Every five to 10 minutes, she gently lowered me deeper into the water to envelop me in the volcanic warmth below. I drifted off, only to wake up to a soft whisper that the massage had ended, but I could stay floating for as long as I wanted to.

Experience the five-step Blue Lagoon ritual

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

Another must-try spa experience is a 45-minute self-guided, skin-restorative journey known simply as “The Ritual” — something you could easily repeat every day of your stay. Think of it as the skin regimen to end all skin regimens. On my last day, I actually had the entire space to myself.

I was advised to start with 15-20 minutes in the sauna to open my pores, then move to an ambiently lit, spacious room with large rain showers and plenty of seating between steps. I applied a mineral salt scrub to my face and body to boost circulation, followed by a full-body coat of deep cleansing silica mud, left to dry and flake away for about 15 minutes before rinsing off. Last was a layer of algae paste, made from Blue Lagoon microalgae, left on for 5-10 minutes before one final rinse. The Ritual closed with the refreshing shock of an ice-cold towel against my face and a generous squeeze of almond-scented oil into my palms to seal in the moisture.

Refresh your skin with a BL+ resurfacing and sculpting facial

Unlike many facials I’ve experienced in my life that include a dreaded, not-so-pleasant pore extraction portion, this BL+ Resurfacing and Sculpting Facial is all about deep relaxation. For an hour, I relaxed as my facial therapist took over my skincare, from applying a deep-cleansing silica mud mask to carrying out the Aqua Peel resurfacing, using ultrasound technology that felt advanced without ever crossing into clinical. Like The Ritual and in-water massage, every treatment at The Retreat uses Blue Lagoon skincare products created directly from the mineral-rich geothermal waters.

After the hour, instead of my usual clumsy roll off the massage table, my facial therapist simply pressed a button and the bed lifted me slowly upright, easing me back into reality. And just when I thought the pampering was over, she handed me a parting gift: a bottle of BL+ eye serum to take home.

Start your morning with yoga with a view

Photo: Laura Zhang

Though not technically part of the spa, morning yoga from 9 to 9:45 AM is offered daily in a light-filled studio overlooking a wide stretch of moss-covered lava rock. I joined five other guests and a calm and patient instructor, Cecilia, for a gentle Hatha sequence that even an unseasoned yogi like me could easily follow. It’s the kind of experience that feels especially rewarding solo. Cecilia emphasized that there was no pressure to match anyone else’s pace and no judgment when it comes to wobbling in a pose. We moved slowly but still worked up a light sweat, closing out with a soothing shavasana and a meditative sound bath.

What it’s like to stay at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon beyond the spa

The rooms at The Retreat

Photos: Laura Zhang

As exquisite as The Retreat Spa is, the rooms are anything but ordinary. With just 60 suites in total — ranging from the Lava Junior Suite up to the two-story Blue Lagoon suite — each space is minimalistically styled but thoughtfully designed with comfort in mind. My 430-square-foot Lava Junior Suite came with human-centric lighting displayed as a glowing circle on the ceiling (changing in brightness and size as our own circadian rhythms shift), an Icelandic wool kaftan to drape on anytime during my stay, heated floors, and a freestanding bathtub facing the lava rocks and lagoon stream. It was the perfect place to wind down after a day at the spa, especially with no TVs in the room to align with the property’s digital detox philosophy.

I slept better here than I had in weeks, but one of the best perks? Guests can request a wake-up call from the front desk if the northern lights appear in the middle of the night. Suite prices start at $1,902 per night.

Dining at The Retreat

Photos: Laura Zhang

When it comes to dining, The Retreat’s restaurant lineup is reason enough to book a stay. The main attraction is Moss Restaurant, one of only three Michelin-starred restaurants in Iceland. Led by Chef Aggi Sverrisson — born and raised in Iceland, celebrated in London, and now back on home soil — Moss earned its star in 2023. The seven-course tasting menu showcases fresh ingredients, from locally sourced Icelandic seafood to pillowy A5 wagyu. Dish presentations mirror the raw, dramatic landscape outside: summer vegetables crowned with 60-month parmesan “antlers” representing wild reindeer, or the finale of macarons and bonbons served on top of lava rock and moss.

While Moss has a phenomenal wine pairing, and its Dom Perignon Society status ensures access to rare vintages, I personally opted for the non-alcoholic pairing and loved how thoughtful it felt. From the Pink Sunrise (with pear juice, mint, and vermouth extract) to the Weisser Pfeffer (with grape juice, white pepper extract, and white tea Bai Mudan extract), each glass was poured and presented like wine, even replicating wine’s color at times.

The other two restaurants, Lava and the Spa Restaurant, are both robe-friendly and more casual. Lava’s cod with apples, red onion, and shellfish is a favorite, served with hot bread and skyr-whipped butter, sea salt, and charcoal flakes.

The Spa Restaurant takes a lighter approach, offering sushi and Icelandic burrata as dishes you can nibble on between lagoon soaks.

Getting to The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon is only 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport (KEF) and less than an hour from Reykjavík by car. Guests can book private transfers through the hotel in advance, or rent a car directly at the airport from companies like Avis, Hertz, Budget, and Europcar.

Book Now

More like thisNewsThis New Geothermal Infinity Lagoon in Iceland Has Dramatic Ocean Views

Beyond the Pubs: Discovering Dublin’s Elegant Side at The Shelbourne

Dublin is synonymous with pubs and parties, and during my first few visits, I heavily partook in both. Now a bit older, although perhaps not so much wiser, I returned to The Fair City with a weekend of classy cocktails and relaxation in mind, and a hotel that could accommodate both. After just a few minutes of research, it was clear that The Shelbourne was my best bet.

Aside from its prime location on St. Stephen’s Green, the hotel’s rich history — as well as its four on-site restaurants and bars, including the guests-exclusive cocktail lounge 1824 Bar — caught my eye. The property was originally founded by Martin Burke, who acquired three adjacent townhouses on the edge of the park. The hotel’s ownership changed hands several times over the centuries. In 2024, it was acquired by Archer Hotel Capital shortly after it celebrated its 200th anniversary.

Photo: Expedia

Walking into The Shelbourne feels like taking a step back in time. The doormen, clad in top hats and traditional garb, set the scene at the revolving doors, which lead into a grandiose lobby padded by dining concepts on each side: to the left, No. 27 Bar & Lounge, the hotel’s all-day dining concept, and the Lord Mayor’s Lounge, the property’s hub for coffee and afternoon tea, to the right. After being greeted by Ireland’s gray skies and flight delays, I was eager to check into my impending home away from home.

We hope you love the spaces we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay.

Rooms and suites at The Shelbourne

Photo: Expedia

After hopping the elevator to the fourth floor, I headed into my Heritage Premium room, which featured a king-sized featherbed with a pillow-top mattress and a small sitting area. The overall vibe was classic-meets-sophisticated, with nods to 19th-century charm clearly evident in it’s solid wood furniture and gilded decor. In total, The Shelbourne is home to 265 guest rooms and 19 suites, from entry-level Heritage Rooms to the iconic two-bedroom Princess Grace Suite. Each room is equipped with a stunning marble bathroom and in-room amenities, including plush robes, mini bars, complimentary water bottles, and more.

Book Now

Dining and amenities at The Shelbourne

After dropping my things and throwing back a quick espresso, I headed down to The Horseshoe Bar for a half pint of Guinness. Here, red banquettes line the walls of the dimly lit space, with a signature brass-rimmed bar as the eye-catching centerpiece. While pints of Guinness are always a safe bet, The Horseshoe Bar is also known for its extensive whiskey offerings. Guests can book a guided tasting from one of the property’s resident whiskey sommeliers for €45 (available on Mondays and Tuesdays at 4 PM) or simply enjoy their dram of choice.

Photo: Vicki Denig

In addition to No. 27, The Lord Mayor’s Lounge, and The Horseshoe Bar, The Shelbourne is also home to The Saddle Room, where á la carte breakfast is served daily. Then there’s 1824, the property’s fabulous guests-only bar. Decked in wood panels and custom murals created by Paul Slater, this tucked-away gem offers a welcome reprieve from the rowdiness of Dublin’s streets, with well-made drinks as the cherry on top. After a night of exploring wine and cocktail bars around town, I ended my first evening here with a belly-warming Irish coffee that melted the chill from the rain-soaked night.

Book Now

What to do around The Shelbourne

The Spa at the Shelbourne

Photo: Expedia

After a big night out on Friday, the spa at The Shelbourne was the perfect way to spend a lazy, Saturday afternoon. The spa’s quiet sitting area has floor-to-ceiling windows with views of St. Stephen’s Green, where you can compliment the view with complimentary tea, water, light snacks, and magazines. A variety of facials, massages, and body scrubs are highlighted on the menu, as well as manicures, pedicures, and holistic treatments like reflexology and reiki.

Grafton Street

For those looking to get their shopping fix, a stroll up Grafton Street, Dublin’s most famous commercial area, is a must. The street runs from St. Stephen’s Green to College Green and is home to a variety of shops and cafés, including the famous department store Brown Thomas. Even if shopping is not at the top your Dublin list, taking in the ambiance of the street and its smattering of musicians and street performers is an instant mood lifter. For a quieter, yet vibrant, option with more cafés and dining options — including the top-tier cocktail bar Peruke & Periwig — head over to Dawson Street.

St. Stephen’s Green

Photo: Alexey Fedorenko/Shutterstock

The most obvious nearby attraction from The Shelbourne is St. Stephen’s Green, a public park developed in the 17th century — though it wasn’t until 1877 that the area opened to the public. Today, the space is home to a handful of sculptures and gardens, and is the perfect place for taking in a breath of fresh air between pints. At 22 acres, St. Stephen’s Green is the largest of Dublin’s Georgian garden squares.

The Little Museum of Dublin

Just a few steps from the hotel is The Little Museum of Dublin, a small, interactive space that tells the city’s history through more than 6,000 artifacts donated or loaned by Dubliners. The museum occupies three floors of a Georgian townhouse, and tours take only 29 minutes — think of it as the perfect museum for non-museum people, or, like St. Stephen’s Green, a pleasant way to spend a half-hour between pints and cocktails.

More like thisTravelWhere to Play, Eat, and Stay on a Weeklong Trip to Ireland, From Dublin to County Kerry