Matador Network's Blog, page 109

Camera Roll: How to Take Breathtaking Photos of Mt. Fuji

From Tokyo, the only thing standing between you and photographing one of the world’s most iconic mountains is a few hours on the Shinkansen high-speed train. My recent journey to Mt. Fuji felt like a montage from one of my favorite adventure movies. It took me through four stations, showered me with scenic landscapes, and landed me at the foot of a natural wonder — equipped with my photography gear, of course.

Getting great Mt. Fuji photos depends heavily on weather conditions, so it’s best to plan your visit from Tokyo a few days in advance and stay flexible. The payoff? A memorable trip through eastern Japan — and the camera roll to prove it.

Before departing from Tokyo, I rehearsed the train route over and over, double checking Google maps for the correct times and transfers. Then, it was time to depart the picturesque Otsuka Station and head west. Photo: Rick Southers

My first transfer was at Shinjuku Station, a busy connecting station in northern Tokyo. I navigated through the station using Google Maps and color-coded signs that made the process of finding the right platform quick and seamless. Once aboard the Shinkansen, it’s a scenic 55-minute journey to Ōtsuki Station to catch the Fujikyuko line to your final destination. Photo: Rick Southers

The Shinkansen is much more modern and comfortable than the commuter trains I’d become used to catching around Tokyo. It’s sleek, fast, and almost silent. Every seat reclines slightly and has a tray table for snacks and drinks. Photo: Rick Southers

During the ride, we passed over farmland, across rivers, and through mountains. I had a short debate about which side of the train would yield more scenic views, but they both did. Photo: Rick Southers

The last train to Kawaguchiko Station is the storied Fujikyu line, which is known for being colorfully decorated with anime characters. At Kawaguchiko Station, you’ll find lots of gift shops, restaurants, and a bike rental shop. Photo: Rick Southers

From this area, it’s easy to flag down a taxi to take you anywhere in the Lake Kawaguchiko area. I stayed at the Noborisaka Hotel, which was a short 10-minute ride from the station. The hotel comes complete with an onsen and attached restaurant. Rick Southers

From the hotel’s entrance, I could see where Mt. Fuji should have been, but the intense cloud cover kept it hidden. My best shot at clear photos of the mountain would be between sunrise and 10 AM the next day. This was a perfect time to have a meal at the hotel restaurant and relax before my early morning. Photo: Rick Southers

Japanese pancakes taste more like dessert than breakfast. I had no complaints. Photo: Rick Southers

Recently, one of the most popular shots of Mt. Fuji has been from a Lawson convenience store with the mountain as a backdrop. This created so much of a tourist traffic jam that local officials decided to ban photography at the store, going as far as putting up a wall to block potential photo ops. Unbeknownst to some, a short walk around town will take you to other Lawson locations with a very similar viewpoint. My first stop after sunrise was at this one, just a 10-minute taxi ride from the hotel. Photo: Rick Southers

The next stop was Lake Kawaguchiko for more photos of the mountain and drone shots over the lake. Play around with different foreground elements, such as this reflection of the mountain on the lake. Photo: Rick Southers

When I visited, there was a beautiful patch of flowers along the walking path next to the lake. By 10 AM, the clouds rolled in and completely covered the mountain’s peak. It was time to go. It was easy to catch a taxi from Lake Kawaguchiko Park to the train station, with my camera full of memories, and start the scenic journey back to Tokyo. Photo: Rick Southers

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This Budget Airline Is 4 Times More Likely to Bump You Off Your Flight

Getting bumped, or being told there’s not enough space for you on the flight you booked, is a massive annoyance. It’s one of the worst ways you can start or end a vacation, and even though new post-2021 rules passed by the Department of Transportation (DOT) entitle bumped fliers to some compensation, it very often doesn’t make up for the hassle of having your travel plans suddenly changed. While you run the risk of getting bumped from your flight on nearly every airline in the country, apparently, one airline bumps fliers way more often.

The good news is that getting bumped isn’t that common, no matter what airline you choose.

According to data from the DOT analyzed by “Upgraded Points,” your chances of getting bumped are slim, at about 3.32 people bumped for every 10,000 passengers. That means your odds are less than a tenth of a percent across the 10 airlines analyzed in the study. Voluntary bumps in which the airlines ask for volunteers to get bumped are more common at 2.85 for every 10,000 passengers. Involuntarily getting bumped, when the airline selects which passengers to deny boarding to, are far less common, at .47 bumps for every 10,000 passengers.

But there’s one US airline where your odds of getting bumped from a flight are way more common: Frontier Airlines.

According to the data, Frontier involuntarily bumps about 3.21 people per 10,000 passengers. That’s 400 percent higher than the next airline, and could be because Frontier is a budget airline. And to maximize profits, you want to have as few empty seats as possible — which means overselling by a larger margin than airlines that can afford to fly with a few empty seats.

The increased likelihood of getting bumped may be a price many travelers are willing to pay for Frontier’s inexpensive flights. Photo: Andrew Mauro/Shutterstock

The US airlines most likely to bump you from a flight involuntarily are:

Frontier Airlines: 3.21 per 10K passengersAmerican Airlines Network: 0.60 per 10K passengersSpirit Airlines: 0.43 per 10K passengersSouthwest Airlines: 0.14 per 10K passengersJetBlue Airways: 0.09 per 10K passengersAlaska Airlines: .08 per 10K passengersUnited Airlines: 0.02 per 10K passengersHawaiian Airlines: 0.01 per 10K passengers

*Delta and Allegiant were both statistically insignificant at less than .01 per 10,000 passengers.

When it comes to passengers who are voluntarily denied boarding, the list looks quite different. That could mean these airlines ask, but don’t demand, that some people wait for a later flight, or that they offer better compensation for passengers who volunteer to get bumped.

.Delta: 7.49 per 10K passengersSpirit Airlines: 3.88 per 10K passengersFrontier Airlines: 3.27 per 10K passengersAlaska Airlines Network: 3.26 per 10K passengersAmerican Airlines Network: 2.54 per 10K passengers

When it comes to compensation, airlines may start with small offers for volunteers to be bumped, like a $100 flight voucher and an airport meal credit. But DOT rules introduced in 2021 make it very clear what passengers who are involuntarily bumped from flights are entitled to receive.

On domestic or international flights on US-based carriers, you’re eligible for absolutely nothing if the airline gets you to your destination within one hour of your original landing time. If you land between one and two hours late, you’re entitled to 200 percent of the one-way fare (capped at $775), and if you’re delayed more than two hours, you’re entitled to four times the one-way fare (capped at $1,550). This needs to be paid in a credit card credit or cash payment, not in the form of a future flight credit. That’s in addition to any compensation you may be entitled to for luggage delayed or lost as a result of the involuntary bump.

Interestedly, the analysis also found that a small amount of people are willing to be very patient when it comes to travel delays. “Nearly half of Americans (46%) say the longest delay they’d accept on a future flight is 2 to 4 hours if they voluntarily gave up their seat,” writes the report. “However, 13% would be willing to wait over 7 hours if necessary.”

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A Leaking Fire Hydrant in Brooklyn is Now a Popular Attraction After Being Converted to a Fish Pond

Leaking fire hydrants were a common sight the years I lived in New York City. Usually they rarely got more than a passing look, if that. Yet a fire hydrant in the Bed-Stuy neighborhood of Brooklyn got a different life in the beginning of August that has seen a space the size of a square of sidewalk concrete turned into a popular draw for locals and travelers: the “Bed-Stuy Aquarium.”

@ridge.x this is easily the best thing to see in NYC @Passionfruit @Hajjmalik Lovick #brooklyn #nyc #aquarium #street #fish #mustsee #viral ♬ original sound – Ridgex

Hajj-Malik Lovick and Je-quan Irving created the Bed-Stuy Aquarium as a way to beautify a trash-filled tree pit on the corner of Hancock Street and Tompkins Avenue that was flooded from a constantly flowing hydrant, local media site Hell Gate reported on August 8. They cleaned up the pit and then released a bag of goldfish from a nearby pet store into the cycling water to make a spot where people could find calm and feed and watch the fish.

It divided locals and people from afar. One person tried to “rescue” the goldfish early on, saying the water was too chlorinated and not large enough of a space. After she avoided confrontation with Lovick directly, she instead went to Reddit.

“I’m aware of the optics of this; uppity white transplant lecturing older Black man about his neighborhood,” the post reads, according to Hell Gate. “That being said, I’m still having a hard time with the animal cruelty of this…There’s no world where these fish survive much longer than a week.”

Other Reddit threads devolved into online arguments about animal rights, gentrification, fish needs, and what happens in the winter or when it rains and floods over. Later attempts to take the fish by the person who tried to remove them the first time were successful, which led to a neighborhood watch of sorts where people in the neighborhood took turns keeping an eye on the makeshift pond.

Still, in late August, a late-night vandalization killed some of the fish and damaged the set up, which had grown into a more traditional outdoor aquarium set up with plants, rocks, and decoration.

Once again, the Bed-Stuy Aquarium was rebuilt, this time with a couple thousand dollars raised through GoFundMe, which was also used for a backpack giveaway and fish adoption event over Labor Day weekend. The Bed-Stuy Aquarium is now more popular than ever. It’s even listed on Google Maps as a cultural landmark. Videos of the spot have racked up millions of likes on TikTok, and a dedicated Instagram page has 12,000 followers.

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With colder weather coming, there are plans to relocate the fish indoors this fall until next spring, when it will again be rebuilt and filled, according to USA Today.

To see it for yourself before the season is officially over, head to 408 Tompkins Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11216.

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Amtrak Is Launching a New Route That’s Perfect for Those Wanting to Escape the Winter Weather

Amtrak currently operates 39 routes, with trains criss-crossing the country to service 500 destinations in 46 states. Starting November 10, 2024, however, the number of Amtrak routes will go down one notch to reach a total of 38. Amtrak is cancelling two routes and launching a brand new one between Chicago and Miami called The Floridian.

The Floridian will be a daily and direct train service between Chicago and Miami that will make only six stops along the way: in Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Washington, D.C., Jacksonville, Orlando, and Tampa.

The Floridian will be a temporary service that will combine the Capitol Limited (between Chicago and Washington) and Silver Star (between New York and Miami) routes and stops. The two routes will stop operating on November 9, 2024 due to the ongoing East River Tunnel Rehabilitation Project in New York. The estimated completion of the works on the East River Tunnel is 2027 so The Floridian is here to stay for at least a little over two years.

While direct, The Floridian will not be a quick ride. Train #40 will travel from Miami to Chicago, departing Miami at 11:05 AM and arriving in Chicago two days later at 8:45 AM. Train #41 will travel in the opposite direction, departing from Chicago at 6:40 PM and arriving in Miami at 6:09 PM two days later. No matter which direction you’re going, you’ll spend at least 40 hours on board the train — that is if no freight trains get in the way creating huge delays.

Despite the long journey, you’ll be traveling in comfort, with private rooms available (roomettes, bedrooms, bedroom suites, and accessible bedrooms) and a full-service dining car with “chef-prepared meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner; table service with glassware, cutlery and linen tablecloths; vegetarian and vegan menu options; selections for children and a complimentary alcoholic drink with dinner,” Amtrak explains in a press release.

The dining car menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner is available here. The list of items available at the National Café Car, along with their individual prices, is visible here.

It is not the first time that Amtrak provides a direct service between the Midwest and Florida. A previous iteration of The Floridian that ran between 1971 and 1979 operated between Chicago and Miami but used a vastly different route than the one scheduled to start in November.

“Our members have had a long-standing dream of restoring a one-seat ride from the Midwest to Florida, and we’re thrilled that a new generation of American passengers will be able to experience this service for themselves,” said Jim Mathews, President & CEO of the Rail Passengers Association.

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Looking For Love in Spain? This Surging Trend Suggests You Might Want to Try the Grocery Store

If romantic comedies are to be believed, love can be sparked by the perfect meet-cute in the most off-beat ways. Travel certainly opens the door to experiences where you can find someone new, and a dating trend in Spain has some people wondering if they should book a flight just to find the one in a grocery store.

The Spanish supermarket chain Mercadona, which has more than 1,600 locations in the country, has seen a massive influx of people arriving between 7 and 8 PM every night and rushing for the pineapples and lentils. People looking for a relationship put a pineapple upside down in their shopping cart, go to the wine section, and faux-serendipitously bump their cart into someone else’s with a pineapple (or wait to get bumped into). Upside-down pineapples have a different connotation signaling people who are open to swinging stateside and elsewhere, but apparently it means dating-app-free love seeking in Spain. For those looking for long-term love, a bag of lentils is the signifier.

@_anagildersleeve Pineapples are chaning the dating game in Spain Gotta love Spaniards and their way to flirt lol #spanishpeople #spain #dating #datingadvice #flirting #flirt #datingapps #learnontiktok #mercadona #pineapple #fypツ ♬ original sound – Ana Gildersleeve

“The pineapple is changing the dating game in Spain,” Ana Gildersleeve says in a TikTok explaining the trend.

According to the BBC, this all likely started with Spanish actress Vivy Lin’s TikTok in August asking if people knew about the dating trick. It’s gotten a bit out of hand since then, as TikTok trends are wont to do. Mercadona workers have started hiding pineapple ahead of the ordained hour, and they’re also responsible for putting away all the unpurchased things from people looking to bring home love instead of food. Police were called to a Mercadona in Bilbao because of the chaos.

The dating scene can be tough these days, and alternatives to the apps can feel more genuine (whether following a TikTok trend is truly genuine or just an example of herd mentality to get in on something that appears popular is a different discussion). Love of any kind is certainly not guaranteed no matter what you put in your shopping cart in Spain. But as far as travel inspiration goes, heading to the grocery store on your travels is never a bad idea.

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Things We Love: The Matador Team’s 9 Favorite Pieces of Travel Gear and More This Month

Fall is here, and with it comes the need to stock up on travel gear for the changing seasons. This month the Matador editorial team began preparing for cooler weather with a down jacket, a pair of all-weather hiking boots, and a multi-season sun hat. There’s still time for at least one more camping getaway, and the crew also tested some new campsite essentials including an organic beer, a versatile pair of trail and travel shorts, and even a spicy way to up your campsite cooking game.

We hope you love this travel gear as much as we do! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase.

Kuhl Getaway Shorts

Photo courtesy Kuhl

Until I obtained the Kuhl Eclipser Hoodie at the beginning of this summer, I’d always thought of Kuhl as the brand for middle aged outdoorsy dudes who’ve yet to reconcile with their escaped youth. I’m 40, spend 100 days a year in the mountains, and listen to Blink-182 every day, and Kuhl continues to surprise me with how “cool” its clothes actually are. Its Getaway Shorts are perfect for me. I’ve hardly taken them off since they arrived, having now worn them on multiple camping trips, to a baseball game, and a couple dozen times to the gym. They’re flexible but the waist holds firm, and are therefore perfect for bike commuting as well as trail time. In casual Colorado where I live they’re appropriate for just about any happy hour or dinner engagement. All of this adds up to a pair of shorts that have received more than their fair share of use in just six short weeks – and I look forward to not swapping them out until the inevitable crisp of the forthcoming winter forces me to do so. – Tim Wenger, Transactional Content Editor

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Patagonia Provisions x Deschutes Brewery Kernza Lager

Photo courtesy Patagonia Provisions and Deschutes Brewery

I love beer. And what’s not to love about certified organic beer? We’ve come to expect nothing less from Patagonia Provisions, which focuses on sustainable and often regenerative food and drink products built for the outdoors. The brand partnered with Oregon-based Deschutes Brewery to make the Kernza Lager, available in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties. The beer is light and slightly creamy, great for a post-adventure toast at the trailhead. I tried both the alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions, and found the punchy one to go down smoother — though this could be because I’m more accustomed to beers with a kick. Deschutes brews all its booze-free beers in-house using Sustainable Beverage Technologies’ BrewVo® technology. The beer is made of organic Kernza from the Perennial Promise Grower’s Cooperative, Regenerative Organic Certified® rye malted by Admiral Maltings, organic 2-Row barley malt from Briess Malt & Ingredients Company, Roy Farms organic Adeena hops come from Roy Farms, and organic Helios hops from Hopsteiner. Grab the beer at a store near you. – Tim Wenger, Transactional Content Editor

Locate The Beer

¡Ya Oaxaca! Mole sauces for camping

Photo courtesy ¡Ya Oaxaca!

The thing about campsite cooking is that it gets boring. Everything must be easy to pack and either be dried, non-perishable, or storable in a small cooler – and therefore adding flavors that pop and make for a memorable meal is tough to do without an RV kitchen. I learned this summer how easy it is to boost the quality of my campsite meals after getting a hold of a three-pack of flavors of mole sauce from ¡Ya Oaxaca! – Mole Negro, Mole Coloradito, and Mole Rojo. Grilling veggies and protein for fajitas has long been a go-to camping meal for my crew, but until this year I’d never bothered to switch up the recipe at all. I love mole – it’s my go-to at Mexican restaurants – and these jars of sauce store easily in the cooler without taking up much space. Cue the best camping dinner ever. – Tim Wenger, Transactional Content Editor

Buy Now: $24.99

KeepGoing First Aid Kit

Photo: Amazon

The KeepGoing First Aid Super Kit is impressive. It is a family-owned company, and you can tell that this was a product made by parents. It’s got everything you could ever need for a family trip, including instruments like tweezers and a tick remover tool, which comes in handy on those hikes in tall grass. There are many fabric bandages with fun prints like dinosaurs, sports, and tie-dye. There are tons of triple antibiotic ointment packets, burn gel, and lip balm! There are even stickers to help kids feel better after those unexpected bumps and scrapes. As a producer who needs to be prepared for anything, it’s comforting to know I have anything I could need in this lovely little pack. It fits easily into a backpack and has cute packaging with a great handle. It’s so well organized that you don’t have to search long for anything. – Alex Halky, senior producer

Buy Now: $31.96

Tevas Women’s Trailwinder Low

Photo: Amazon

The Teva Trailwinder shoe is the perfect travel shoe. If you want something nice and light, just in case that friend decides to go on a hike on vacation, you’ll be prepared to join them. They’re super lightweight so they won’t add much to your bag. There are tiered traction lugs that are excellent to keep you from slipping on the trails. The NAVILOCK internal bootie system gave me a secure fit. There is a heel pull tab, which makes it more accessible for slipping on. There is also excellent arch support, and the LITE-COMF insole provides responsive comfort. – Alex Halky, senior producer

Buy Now: $129.95

FACTORFIVE Soothing Facial Mask

Photo: Amazon

I’ve never understood how certain people can walk off a long-haul flight and look fresh. I claw at the cabin door to get off and be welcomed by an airport mirror reflecting what can only be described as a shriveled-up cherry tomato at the back of a refrigerator drawer. Ok, I’m being a smidge too hard on myself, but my skin, after a long flight, always takes a beating. Despite being the queen of hydration, the mix of air conditioning with lack of sleep does nothing for my complexion. To combat this, I recently tried out FACTORFIVE Soothing Facial Mask. As a self-proclaimed sheet mask expert, I was intrigued by the brand’s addition of adult human stem cell factors (as well as aloe, green tea extract, and hemp seed oil). “What dat?” I hear you say. Ethically derived stem cell therapy in skincare is relatively new. The idea is that stem cells contain proteins and amino acids that signal other cells to regenerate, resulting in (over time) younger-looking skin. If the sound of this makes you as perplexed as Hocus Pocus 2, Vogue’s in-depth article on the topic is worth a read. I’m not sure if I’m quite at the stage of drinking stem cell Coolaid, but I have to say this mask was delightful. I loved the tingling sensation and scent of peppermint, and after 15 minutes, my skin looked plump and fresher. I’d happily put a FACTORFIVE mask in my carry-on for future inflight facials. – Katie Scott Aiton, Lifestyle Editor

Buy Now: $22

Arc’teryx Liatris Down Parka

Photo courtesy Arc’teryx

I’ve been looking for a down parka for some time now. Despite my Scottish heritage, I don’t get along well with cold weather. After a wet Scottish summer in Arc’teryx’s outdoor hiking gear, I looked at its down jackets and came across the Liatris parka. I also needed something substantial for the current trip I’m on to Northern Norway. And substantial it is. It feels more like a comforter than outerwear. Yet it’s not cumbersome – which was a welcome surprise. You can zip the jacket from top to bottom, but it also unzips around the ankles, making walking and sitting easy. I can’t describe how comfortable and warm this parka is, other than perhaps feeling like a hug from my husband. The pockets are also great. It took me a while to navigate them all. Because there are so many, I lost my car keys in the padding a few times. They are deep, zippable, and beautifully lined. Thanks to the airy goose down, it’s also lighter than it looks, and the GORE-TEX shell is exceptional. I have no doubt this parka will get me through many winters to come. It might even live out me. – Katie Scott Aiton, Lifestyle Editor

Buy Now: $1,000

Pistil’s Trent Sun Hat

Photo: Amazon

I have such fair skin that even my scalp gets sunburnt. Because it’s tricky (but not impossible) to use sunscreen on top of my hairy head, I prefer to wear a hat when it’s sunny outside. While I like stylish straw hats and own a couple of them, they are hard to travel with – packing a straw hat in a piece of luggage is bound to damage it. Pistil’s sun hats, while less chic than a straw hat, are a lot more practical. Because they are made of soft and light fabric, they can be folded and packed easily without getting destroyed. Also, their UPF 50+ and wide brim mean that your scalp, your neck, and parts of your face are protected from the sun. Other attributes that make Pistil’s sun hats a good choice is the adjustable chin cord which helps keep the hat on your head even when there are strong winds, and the lightweight, quick-dry fabric which means you can put it on your head even when your hair is wet without damaging the material. I mistakenly bought the men’s version of Pistil’s sun hat, but it fits very well and certainly doesn’t look too masculine. After 15 years of usage, I reserve my straw hat for special occasions and use my Pistil sun hat for the beach and all my trips abroad. – Morgane Croissant, Deputy Editor

Buy Now: $56

Camper’s T-Style Sandals Flat

Photo: Amazon

Nothing can beat Birkenstocks when it comes to comfortable, yet stylish sandals, but the problem with Birks is that they can’t get wet – ever. Because the footbed is made of cork, when wet, it starts disintegrating. A pair of water sandals is much more appropriate for the beach or for light hiking, canoeing, or kayaking, but they tend to be chunky and unattractive. After a lot of digging, I managed to find a pair of water sandals that are both cute and practical: Camper’s T-Style Sandals Flat. These sandals come in a variety of bright colors and offer the same rubber soles, sturdy textile straps, and velcro closures as other brands. They are comfortable, dry quickly, and look fun and fashionable. Warning: if you have wide feet, they may be too narrow for you. – Morgane Croissant, Deputy Editor

Buy Now: $82.34

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Dark Treasures: Exploring Some of the World’s Most Macabre Antiques in New Book ‘The Witches Door’

In 2017, Ryan Matthew Cohn and Regina M. Rossi hosted a one-day show highlighting all things rare and macabre at the Brooklyn Bazaar in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn. It brought together 70 artists, dealers, and colleagues and was dubbed the Oddities Flea Market. It was an immediate hit. The next year the show expanded to a two-day, ticketed event, and over subsequent years it expanded to Chicago, Los Angeles, and Seattle — all of which include carefully curated vendors and performers.

Their own collection of spooky afterlife antiques, it goes without saying, is impressive. Their empire in the world of ghastly and historic objects recently added a new chapter: Cohn and Rossi’s first book, The Witch’s Door: Oddities and Tales from the Esoteric to the Extreme (Chronicle Prism). The memoir is filled with photos of eye-catching objects, with pages that explore the couple’s lives, collection, true stories of specific artifacts (ornate kapala skull bowls found in a dead missionary’s underwear and wax penises, to name a few), and the subculture in general.

Cohn and Rossi have had a long fascination with the afterlife. Cohn cites interest in the skeletal system since he was a kid, while Rossi says it started with a blinged-out skull Christmas wish. Rossi went on to a career in high-end fashion and curated Brooklyn’s House of Wax with Cohn in 2016. Cohn’s art and curation have been featured in museums, magazines, and movies, and he was a star on the Discover Channel show “Oddities” and currently appears on the Atlas Obscura web series “Antiques and Their Afterlives.” The couple is a match made in heaven (or any other afterlife of your choosing): they were engaged in the Paris Catacombs and the ring was tucked in a skull.

The Witch’s Door: Oddities and Tales from the Esoteric to the Extreme is available for preorder with a publish date of October 1. Below, an excerpt of the prologue for a taste of the book and background on how it got its title.

We hope you love the books we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

Buy: $30

Photo: David Zeck/SDZ Photography

WARNING

You are about to enter a realm of the strange and unusual. The death-positive compendium of oddities and curiosities you hold in your hands represents our lifelong fascination with the macabre and the bizarre. While some will find these artifacts to be an affront to good manners and common decency, we see great beauty in the journey our bodies take long after life deserts us. Some of the artifacts you will encounter in these pages stretch the limits of credulity; others are simply shocking. We present them to you with the assurance of our respect for the dead and our gratitude for all they have taught us.

Also, this book may, or may not, be haunted.

Enter at your own risk . . .

PROLOGUE: Old Jef

The first time we laid eyes on the Witch’s Door, we knew it was something special. We’d just acquired the collection of a friend whom we’ll call Nick Parmesan. He was given the moniker because his parents ran a neighborhood deli in Brooklyn that made the best chicken parmesan known to humankind.

Nick was an odd guy. He was a former New York Police Department sergeant who took early leave from the force after 9/11. Some people travel when they retire. Others go to the beach. Nick caught the collecting bug. He did a lot of his collecting online, but he was also a fixture at many of the flea markets and antique shops where we did business. All collectors are secretive, but Nick took it to the extreme and had many enemies. Despite some ups and downs in our long relationship, we considered Nick a friend.

He was also a hoarder.

We’d only been to Nick’s apartment in Brooklyn a handful of times. Although he was proud of his collection, he didn’t like people poking around his stuff. Nick had an incredible eye, but his collection was a mess. It was so vast and disorganized that he didn’t have a way to display it. We didn’t realize how serious his hoarding problem had become until after he passed away.

There’s no other way to put this: Nick’s apartment was a horror show. Boxes and bags were piled up all over the place. The stacks rose from the floor and went all the way up to the ceiling. The place was dark and dangerous and in disrepair. Walking from one room to the next was an adventure because each step required moving piles of Nick’s stuff out of the way.

These obstacles aside, Nick’s collection was jaw-dropping. We couldn’t believe the quality of the stuff he had in there. Suits of armor. A squad of skeletons. Exquisite eighteenth-century Italian figures. Amid the towers of garbage and junk, we found unusual sculptures, boxes of teeth, and antiquities rare enough to be displayed in a museum.

When we acquired Nick’s collection, we agreed to clear out his apartment so that it would be ready for its new occupants to rent. As is usually the case in situations where someone passes away unexpectedly, we didn’t have much time to prepare for the cleanup, and everything had to go. We rented some trucks and enlisted the aid of a full-scale crew, but toward the end of our first day we had to face the truth: We’d underestimated the amount of stuff that Nick had crammed inside his apartment. We’d barely made a dent in it, and we were completely overwhelmed.

As we were getting ready to leave for the day, something caught our attention. We couldn’t tell what it was, but it looked like a piece of antique furniture. At first we thought it was a headboard, but it was far too big for that.

After shifting some boxes around, we noticed what looked like a rough wooden door with hand-forged wrought-iron hardware leaning against the wall. It was massive—that’s what caught our attention—but there was too much stuff in front of it to get a good look. Now that our curiosity was piqued, we needed to know exactly what we were looking at.

We kept moving things around until we could see the piece properly. It was definitely a door, and it wasn’t in very good condition. The wood was scratched and scarred. It was obviously very old. Although it was far from beautiful, there was something about the door that called to us.

It was getting late and becoming dark inside the apartment. Our bodies ached from moving Nick’s belongings around all day. We were positive we’d never seen this object in his apartment or heard him talk about it before, which meant one of two things: Either he’d acquired it recently or he’d kept it hidden from us.

Why would he do that?

We didn’t always understand Nick’s impulses, but we trusted his taste. We knew it had to be something.

Once we brought the antique out into the light, we noticed some- thing very unusual. In the upper part of the door someone had carved a figure into the wood. This wasn’t a decorative detail. The carving was ugly and crude, but because it had faded with time it was also easy to miss in the gloom of Nick’s apartment. The door had been defaced with the carving of an image of a sinister-looking woman.

Above the figure, the words old jef had been inscribed, which was an Old English term for the devil.

This carving had been made as a warning to others.

Old Jef lives here.

A she-devil.

A witch.

We looked at each other in amazement. What the hell had Nick found?

Excerpted with permission from The Witch’s Door: Oddities and Tales from the Esoteric to the Extreme (Chronicle Prism) by Ryan Matthew Cohn and Regina M. Rossi. The book releases on October 1, and is available for preorder.

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Travelers to Germany Can Save Big With This Monthly Transport Pass

When it comes to public transportation, the Germans are well ahead of the game. Instead of making people purchase different tickets or travel cards for each transport company and each mode of travel in every city and town you visit, they created the Deutschland-Ticket (or D-Ticket for short), a transport card that works throughout the country.

For the meagre price of $55 (€49) per month, the Deutschland-Ticket offers unlimited travel on all means of local public transport throughout Germany. That means that you can ride regional trains and buses, trams, subways, etc. in the entire country with just one card.

In comparison, a seven-day ticket to use public transportation in all of Berlin costs the same price: $55 (€49). In the northern city of Hamburg, an all-day ticket that covers all zones costs around $30 (€26.70).

The Deutschland-Ticket is a monthly subscription that is well suited to those who reside in Germany but that works also great for anyone planning to travel around the country for an extended period of time. Tourists only have to remember to cancel the subscription when they’re done so it does not get renewed for another month. Canceling your D-Ticket is easily done via the DB Navigator app.

Note that tourist-specific buses and trains are not covered by the D-Ticket. Neither are high-speed trains (ICE), long-distance trains (IC), and EuroCity trains (EC). Those who wish to ride the ICE, IC, and EC trains frequently while in Germany would do well to check out the Eurail’s offerings for unlimited train travel.

A few exceptions apply to the all-encompassing usage of the D-Ticket and they are listed in a PDF (in German but easily understood) by regions and transport companies.

The D-Ticket can be purchased online and displayed on your smart phone via the DB Navigator app. You cannot get a printed ticket, which the Deutsch Bahn says creates “less waste and CO2 thanks to elimination of production and shipping.”

I recently traveled around Northern Germany using only public transport and can attest to the efficiency and punctuality of the trains, buses, and metros. Even in rural areas like the lesser-known island of Rügen, there’s no need to use the car as buses run throughout the island at very frequent interval. Of course, using public transportion is also a much more sustainable way to travel than driving or flying.

Starting January 1, 2025, the price of the Deutschland-Ticket is set to increase by $10 (€9). The subscription will then be $65 (€58) per month.

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How Long Should You Really Have for Your Connecting Flight? Airline Workers and Travel Experts Chime In

Usually, I would never be caught dead booking flights with a tight connection, but in a couple of days, I’ll be going against all my instincts, take a big chance, and try to make a flight with only a 45-minute layover. To say that I’m worried about it is an understatement — I’ve been thinking about it every single day, multiple times per day, for weeks. If you think that the simple solution to my anxiety is to change my flights, know that not only was this connection recommended to me by the airline, but I also don’t have much of a choice. Because I live in a very rural area with an unreliable airport, I have extremely limited flight options. Time will tell whether I make it or not, but if the flight attendants, pilots, and travel experts I interviewed are right, I’m in trouble.

“I’d say layovers between connecting flights should be at least 1.5 hour for domestic flights and three hours for international trips,” says Duke Armitage, airline pilot and founder of Aviamonde, in an email. “This should ensure you have enough time to cover most delays,” he continues.

While I should probably bow to Armitage’s expertise, I, who consider myself quite knowledgeable in all things travel-related, tend to disagree. A three-hour layover for an international flight seems like overkill. Diane Dupont, a flight attendant for French Bee, backs me up.

“If passengers travel on a long-haul flight with the same airline, I recommend two hours between the flights. But if the second flight is on another airline, I would schedule more time, about four hours, in case of a delay,” she says.

However, as Dupont explains, an itinerary that includes two or more airlines, especially if they’re not part of the same alliance, will indeed require more time for your to catch your next flight. You’ll need to pick up your luggage at baggage claim, re-check it, and possibly go through security again, before making your way to the gate, which can take a very long time. Whether or not you need four hours is arguable.

“A Two to three-hour layover is advisable to accommodate these additional steps and reduce the risk of missing your connecting flight,” says Jon Morgan, the CEO and editor-in-chief of Venture Smarter. With a background in developing software used by airports to manage flights, he has gained insights into creating smooth connections between flights.

Before booking an itinerary with tight connections, Armitage recommends that you check flight on-time performance time by using the free online tool put at your disposal by the US Bureau of Transportation. “This allows you to see how likely your flight will be delayed so you can plan accordingly,” he explains.

Beyond potential delays and airlines, travelers should also think about airport size and awareness while making a booking that includes connections. You would breeze through a regional airport or even an international airport that you know well, and struggle to make your way to the appropriate gate of a big and busy hub or an airport you’ve never been to before.

“I’d recommend adding an extra hour to your connection time if you’re at an airport as huge as Denver International or as busy as JFK,” Armitage explains.

James Kinsella founder of travel-planning website Turtle Trip agrees. “For large but efficient airports like Atlanta International (ATL), we recommend 1.5 hours for domestic and two hours for international, while Chicago O’Hare (ORD) takes more walking and needs a minimum of two hours for domestic and 2.5 to three hours for international,” he says.

If I sum up all the advice from the professionals, here is how much time you should really have for your connecting flight:

Domestic flight with same airline: at least 1.5 hoursDomestic flight with different airline: between two and three hoursInternational flight with same airline: at least two hoursInternational flight with a different airline: between two and four hours

While sticking to the experts’ advice is always a good idea, if, like me, you’re stuck with a tight connection, there are a few things you can do to help.

Travel with a carry-on luggage only. If you travel with a checked luggage, you might make your connecting flight but your bag likely won’t.Book a seat in the front of the plane so you can get out as quickly as possible, even if it means you need to pay a little extra.Purchase a travel insurance that covers missed connections so you can get a refund for meals, hotels, or alternative flights in case the worst happens. More like thisTravelVape Pens Can Catch Fire. That's Why You Don't Put Them in Your Checked Luggage.

Fairy Tales, Castles, and Viking Lore: Inside the Island of Fyn, Denmark

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to escape into a fairytale? To command a dragon, slay beasts, or ride into battle like Norse mythology’s Valkyrie? Hans Christian Andersen, the father of modern fairytales, likely imagined the same. Both the author and his stories were born and raised on the island of Fyn, Denmark (pronounced Foon in Danish).

Fyn is Denmark’s second most populated island after Zealand, where Copenhagen lies. It’s filled with fascinating castles and immense history that call upon visitors to use their imaginations just like Andersen did. Around every storybook corner on, there awaits real-world points of interest, from Viking cultural relics to exciting street food, that prove there’s a lot more to see in Denmark than its capital city.

Things to do on the island of Fyn

Get to know Denmark’s most famous author

H.C. Andersen Hus

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

This museum invites visitors to dive into the mind of Hans Christian Andersen. But there’s a lot to admire before you step inside. Japanese architect Kengo Kuma won a competition to design the museum. He was inspired by the half-timber houses that are so famous on Fyn, and Denmark at large, and designed a series of sleek and fluid buildings accordingly.

Inside, rather than displaying beautiful artifacts behind glass walls, the museum immerses visitors as if Andersen himself is guiding you through it. The museum is set mostly underground and takes you through four different sections: Butterfly, My Children, Reflections, and, you guessed it, Fairytales. The first three sections give a glimpse into Andersen’s life, including love letters, early works, and his history with a town that shunned him.

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

The best part comes last. The museum worked with 12 different artists to bring Andersen’s most popular stories to life. You can stand at a spotlight on the floor and The Shadow story will play out in front of you using your silhouette. You can try on the titular Emperor’s new clothes and listen to Andersen’s eponymous Nightingale sing its song. Or you can lay on the soft rocks in The Little Mermaid and look up at the ceiling where the world outside is visible. You can even see the real pea that inspired the Princess and the Pea. Expect to stay here for at least an hour.

Audio tours of the museum are offered in four different languages, with each guide varying depending on the narrator and what they felt was most interesting.

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

The H.C. Andersen Hus also has a special place designed for kids: Ville Vau. (The whole museum is free for anyone under 18 who’s accompanied by an adult.) Ville Vau is a fantastical world where little ones (and their parents) can dress up as princesses or jesters in a castle or don a swan costume and hang out in the pond.

After a long day spent devouring the museum’s contents, stop by the on-property Café Deilig for some actual sustenance and grab a sandwich named after Andersen’s works.

H.C. Andersen Hus: H.C. Andersen Haven 1, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Andersen’s Childhood Home

Photo: embeki/Shutterstock

With a ticket to the H.C. Andersen Hus, you also get a tour through his three-room, half-timbered childhood home, which is connected to the museum. See where Andersen lived until he was 14 years old, where honed his incredible imagination in the courtyard behind his house, and where he began weaving his famous fairytales.

Andersen’s Childhood Home: Munkemøllestræde 3, 5000 Odense, Denmark

H.C. Andersen Walking Tour

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

You can, quite literally, walk in Andersen’s footsteps (complete with his size 13 shoe imprints on the sidewalk). The tour follows a 1.5- to 2.5-mile path that stops at landmarks like the Odense Castle where Andersen played in the gardens with the prince and the church where he was baptized. Eventually, you make your way to the FairyTale Garden where a statue of the author stands tall before ending back at his childhood home.

H.C. Andersen Walking Tour: Old Odense, Fyn, Denmark

H.C. Andersen Festivals

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Every late August — or Week 34 as the Danes call it — a visual arts festival takes place in honor of Hans Christian Andersen. Since 2013, the H.C. Andersen Festivals has brought together artists from all over the world to perform their acts in stunning and creative ways along the streets and parks of Odense. Performances range from acrobatic feats to comedic acts like Italian clowns trying to make pizza. Most of the H.C. Andersen Festivals is free, with only a select few performances that are ticketed. With around 350,000 people visiting the festival every day, it’s one of the largest in Denmark and shouldn’t be missed.

H.C. Andersen Festivals: Odense, Fyn, Denmark

Head to the coast

South Fyn Archipelago

Photo: Thomas Roell/Shutterstock

The South Fyn Archipelago is officially designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark, which refers to a region that’s holistically managed to protect, educate, and develop sustainably. There are almost 800,000 years of geological history within the archipelago, thanks to a “drowned” ice age. You can download the Geopark app (iOS and Android) to guide you through all of the organizations, sites, and companies that are involved in the South Fyn Geopark.

South Fyn Archipelago Geopark: Frederiksgade 12, 5700 Svendborg, Denmark

Invisible Theatre from BaggårdTeatret

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

This tour ushers guests through the town of Marstal at their own pace as they listen to the story of We, The Drowned by the Danish author Carsten Jensen. Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, who played Jaime Lannister in Game of Thrones, voices one of the characters. The tour is just over three miles and will take most people approximately two hours to complete.

Invisible Theatre from BaggårdTeatret: Marstal, Denmark

Marstal Maritime Museum

Author Carston Jensen outside the Marstal Maritime Museum Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Despite the large ship’s bow that protrudes from the exterior, this unassuming museum looks like a quaint point of interest inside of a historic building — until you step inside. What you’ll find when you do is room after room of treasures and trinkets, exquisite model ships, historic photographs, and more. Keep following the red arrows on the floor, and you’ll find your way out.

Marstal Maritime Museum: Prinsensgade 1, 5960 Marstal, Denmark

Deep dive into Viking history

Odense Cathedral

Photo: Perekotypole/Shutterstock

In 1080 AD, King Knud, the last Viking king, was ruthless. He killed opposing Vikings with the goal of taking back control of England. Knud gathered 50-100 ships in a fjord to raid England on his command. When he took too long, people got angry, and Knud fled south to Odense.

Knud was killed on the night of July 10 when he was doing his evening prayers, and the church was overrun by an angry mob. This was considered the end of the Viking age and the beginning of Christianity and the Middle Ages. You can visit the bones of Knud and his brother, who was also killed in the raid, in the Odense Cathedral where they died.

Odense Cathedral: Klingenberg 19, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Odins Odense

Photo: Berkel Aler/Shutterstock

Although not technically in the Viking Age, Odins Odense is a replica of an Iron Age village from the era before the Vikings. Guests can visit this place in two ways: a day trip or tour and an overnight experience. When you visit, you’ll be placed back in time when food was simple and mead was flowing. You’ll see the various dwellings from that era and partake in activities from 2,000 years ago. Adults and kids alike will enjoy the adventure back in time with a rune hunt or other ancient games that you can play.

Odins Odense: Store Klaus 40, 5270 Odense N, Denmark

The Viking Museum Ladby

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The Viking Museum Ladby holds Denmark’s oldest royal tomb in the shape of a Viking ship. One thousand years ago, a Danish royal — known due to the nature of the burial though the body wasn’t there when the tomb was dug up — was buried with his three dogs, nine horses, an extensive weapon collection, and various other items to accompany him into his afterlife.

The ship grave was uncovered in 1935 and is now uncovered but protected behind glass at the museum. You can still see bones from the horses that were buried with the king. There’s a replica burial site that visitors can see before venturing into the actual grave. It’s hard to understand the immense length of the ship (over 70 feet) until you see it in person. During the summer months, you can also view another replica that sits at the dock on the property.

The Viking Museum Ladby: Vikingevej 123, 5300 Kerteminde, Denmark

Nonnebakken

When most people think of Bluetooth, they think of the process of wirelessly connecting two devices. But Bluetooth was also the name of a Viking king. King Harald Bluetooth lived in the late 900s — no, that’s not a typo, it was over 1,000 years ago — and Nonnebakken was one of the ring fortresses that’s attributed to the Viking king.

Five ring fortresses across Denmark, including Nonnebakken, received UNESCO World Heritage status in 2023. Although the fortress can’t be seen in its entirety in Odense, you can see traces of it, including part of the rampart wall near Odd Fellow Lodge and another part in a private school’s parking lot and playground (complete with Odin and Thor sculptures). You can see a 1:30 scale of Nonnebakken just north of the Odd Fellow Lodge in the park there.

Nonnebakken: Odense, Fyn, Denmark

Admire the architecture

Egeskov Castle

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

One of Europe’s best preserved water castles, Egeskov Castle looks like something out of a book. It’s known as a living castle since there are people who actually reside there year-round. Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and Princess Alexandra of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg are the current occupants and can be seen walking the grounds and greeting guests often. The castle has been in the Count’s family since the American Revolution. The castle gets about 300,000 visitors every year who come to admire the property’s dozen gardens, eight museums, hedge labyrinth, treetop walk, and a handful of places to dine (try Brasserie Rigborg).

Egeskov Castle: Egeskov Gade 22, 5772 Kværndrup, Denmark

Night watchmen of Ærøskøbing

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Touring Ærøskøbing with night watchmen is more of a thriller or historical fiction than a fairytale. In 1702, a young woman was attacked and robbed in the town. From then until 1863, the night watchmen walked and protected the town’s streets, lighting lamps as they went while singing their songs to the chimes of the church bells. Tours will lead you along the quintessential cobblestone streets of Ærøskøbing where you’ll hear stories about the old houses and their inhabitants. If you’re lucky, the night watchmen leading your group might give you an old tune they used to sing to distinguish the hours throughout the night.

Night watchmen of Ærøskøbing: Ærøskøbing, Ærø, Denmark

Castle and manor road trip

Photo: trabantos/Shutterstock

There are a total of 123 castles and manors on Fyn — the largest concentration anywhere in Scandinavia. You can’t visit all of them in one go, and some aren’t even open to the public. But the ones that are open are breathtaking. Walk along the secluded paths of the Romantic Garden, or sleep in the same bed as the baron at Broholm Castle. Or you can simply follow map directions to view all the castles and manors from the comfort of your own car.

Go on a souvenir shopping spree

Ærø Soap Company

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Owned by a German and a Canadian, Ærø Soap Company takes pride in embodying the natural scent of the island of Ærø. The company rotates about 20 soaps throughout the year with seasonal ones coming and going. The shop does, however, have a few soaps that are constantly on its shelves due to popularity. Its most asked for scent, lavender, comes from the 1,000 lavender plants that the shop has on the property. Susanna, one of the owners and a master soapmaker, says she “loves that everyone who buys a bar of soap here goes home with a bit of the scent they have grown to love so much.”

Ærø Soap Company: Vester Bregninge 31, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

Hattesens Konfektfabrik

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Black licorice is a Danish delicacy. This is not your average Twizzlers you’d find in an American grocery store. The texture is much different, and the flavors are incredibly diverse. Even if you aren’t a fan of black licorice in the States, you should try it in Denmark — and Hattesens Konfektfabrik on the island of Ærø has something truly unique. Claus Hattesen, the owner and dreamer behind the brand, wanted something better than the usual licorice. He developed new flavors using traditional methods, removing more sugar while keeping the natural flavor. The use of seaweed as gelatin (rather than animal fat) gives this licorice a truly distinctive flavor profile.

Hattesens Konfektfabrik: Vestergade 2, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

Gift shops

At almost every museum mentioned above, there’s an adjoining gift shop. These shops are perfect for grabbing small gifts for those who weren’t able to make the trip with you or mementos to remember your incredible trip. One of the better gift shops is the one at the H.C. Andersen Hus where you can pick up his fairy tales in many languages and the shop at Ladby. Make sure to grab a Viking sword and shield to battle with later.

Where to eat on the island of Fyn

Café Fleuri

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Step off of the main thoroughfare in Odense (aka the “bike highway”) and head into the quiet courtyard of Café Fleuri. You’ll find a seat at one of the many tables in a quaint courtyard while vines and hanging plants cascade down its interior walls. The menu reflects the same coziness and whimsy, focusing on small plates with high quality.

Café Fleuri: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Storms Pakhus

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Odense’s Storms Pakhus operates out of a renovated warehouse that springs to life with dozens of vendors selling all types of street food. From pizza and burgers to sushi, curry, and gyros, there’s a meal for every age and palate. The cafeteria-style seating allows friends to gather together or for strangers to strike up a conversation.

Storms Pakhus: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Midtfyns Bryghus

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Just meeting the owner of Midtfyns Bryghus is enough reason to visit this microbrewery. Eddie Szweda is American born but has lived in Denmark for decades. He took over Midtfyns Bryghus in 2006 and has been there since. Come for a tasting — with Szweda, the experience is “80 percent entertainment and 20 percent beer.”

Midtfyns Bryghus: Industrivej 11-13, 5792 Årslev, Denmark

Madklubben

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Good food doesn’t have to mean astronomical prices — at least, that’s what the Madklubben’s owner, Anders Asgaard, thinks. Madklubben is a place for everyone to gather and savor their food, from simple dishes like cheeseburgers to tandoori and the classic “Welfare Pig,” a crispy pork dish that comes with grilled veggies, pickles, and herbs.

Madklubben: Jernbanegade 4, st th, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Stokkebye Vineyard

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Owners Jacob and Helle take the wine-making business seriously. When you think of Denmark, vineyards might not come to mind, but the Stokkebyes have persevered. They specialize in white and sparkling wines and produce upwards of 20,000 bottles every year. Their wine is found in several restaurants throughout Europe, including Michelin-starred establishments. Their story is a beautiful one where family comes first and wine second. Their logo is an intertwined tree, falcon, and star, which represents their three children whom the wine is named after. You can book wine tastings and vineyard tours as well as caviar and wine pairings.

Stokkebye Vineyard: Kertemindevej 152, 5800 Nyborg, Denmark

Restaurant ARO

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Odense’s latest Michelin star restaurant takes form in a former factory used to make heating parts. It almost looks like an abandoned building from the outside, but once inside, you’ll be struck by a humble dining room that seats two dozen. You might get lucky if your party is small, but reservations are out for at least six months — and for good reason. The food is immaculately crafted and beautifully presented. Guests can choose between three, four, five, or seven courses to make it as simple or as extravagant as you’d like.

Restaurant ARO: Østerbro 32, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Where to stay on the island of Fyn

Hotel Odeon

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

Just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Odense train station, Hotel Odeon is a particularly great place to stay if you’re without a car. It’s located in the heart of the city and steps from the H.C. Andersen Hus. If you have a bike, the hotel is next to the main thoroughfare that has been transformed into a bike highway where you can easily maneuver yourself throughout town.

Hotel Odeon: Odeons Kvarter 11, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Hotel På Torvet

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Located on the island of Ærø, Hotel På Torvet is an experience all on its own. There are suites (complete with separate living and sleeping areas) as well as apartments for those needing more of a home-away-from-home feel. All of the rooms are in two historic buildings dating back to the 1800s: the School House or the Lantern Factory. The hotel is located in central Ærøskøbing where you can easily walk the charming cobblestone streets throughout town.

Hotel På Torvet: Torvet 7, 5970 Ærøskøbing, Denmark

How to get to and around the island of Fyn

Photo: Sarah Lamagna

For American travelers, Copenhagen Airport (CPH) is the best place to fly into to get to Fyn. Several US cities have nonstop flights to Copenhagen on Scandinavian Airlines (SAS), including Atlanta, Boston, Miami, Los Angeles, New York City via John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK), Chicago, and Washington, DC. SAS is one of the most sustainable airlines to date and committed to cutting carbon emissions by 25 percent across the whole company by 2025. Within Scandinavia, the airline is phasing out emissions entirely by 2030, and SAS has also invested in hybrid electric planes that will take flight in 2028.

Upon arrival in Copenhagen, you can take a 75-minute express train ride from the station directly below CPH to the Odense station on Fyn. Odense, the island’s largest city, is easily walkable, and the city bus can help you get around town. However, you’ll need to rent a car to visit some of the more unique places around the island.

To get to the South Fyn Archipelago and the island of Ærø, you can book a seat on one of the four Ærøfærgern’s ferries. It only takes about 55 to 75 minutes depending on the ferry you take. As with most public transport in the country, bicycles are welcome onboard. Book your ticket in advance online or get one from the ticket kiosks in Svendborg or Ærøskøbing.

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