Matador Network's Blog, page 108
September 30, 2024
Italy and Switzerland Redraw Their Border Beneath the Matterhorn Due to Shrinking Glaciers
In what is likely the first formal change in the global map as a direct result of human-furthered climate change, Switzerland and Italy have redrawn their border due to melting glaciers. Bloomberg reported that Switzerland ratified the change Friday with Italy expected to do the same shortly.
Directly impacted in this change is Zermatt ski resort, specifically where hikers cross from Switzerland into Italy’s Valtournenche valley. Directly below the Matterhorn peak, glaciers have receded to the point that the previously recognized boundary no longer exists as such. The idea to redraw this portion of the border between the two countries was brought forward last year.
While the change isn’t drastic and most visitors to the region won’t even notice, the fact that a changing climate is shifting boundaries is a reminder to travelers to be aware of their impact on the places they visit, and on the planet as a whole. As glaciers retreat familiar mountain routes can become dangerously unstable. Chamonix, the popular ski region in France, has also experienced significant glacial retreat in recent years, and future impacts to outdoor recreation in the European mountains is likely to come forth. 
Camera Roll: Finding Peak Fall Foliage in Crested Butte, Colorado
Growing up on the California coast, “leaf peeping” was as distant a concept as beaches lined with palm trees for those in New England. Fall road trips to see leaves die in a blaze of color before falling to the ground ahead of winter was the stuff of family movies and commercials.
That changed when I moved to New York City. I didn’t make it a priority to be surrounded by deciduous trees at the peak moment when chlorophyll production comes to a halt to reveal the range of other colors present. Yet the colors have a way of finding you, whether in the city’s many parks or on a short train ride out of the metro area. When I moved to Denver in 2020, fall road trips to Breckenridge, Cripple Creek, and elsewhere in the mountains became the norm — even if timing everything just right to see the aspens in all their yellow glory while avoiding the hordes of people seeking the same is a challenge.
During a mountain trip with friends to Crested Butte on the last weekend in September, the timing lined up just right. Not for avoiding the crowds — leaf peeping traffic was in large part responsible for adding two hours to a four-hour drive back to Denver — but for fall colors unlike any I’ve seen. The former coal mining town is famous for its backcountry skiing, wildflowers, mountain biking, rock climbing, and fishing. Fall foliage is also at the top of that list for me after this trip.
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Getting to our mountain AirbnbMy wife and I left Denver with our toddler, Margot, at about 7 AM on Friday. We took Route 285, and within a couple of hours we were over the continental divide and greeted by bunches of aspens along the side of the highway and covering the mountainside. The number of times we gasped at the sights and pulled out our phones for pictures would have been embarrassing if it wasn’t just us in the car. Even Margot got in on it with exclamations of “wooooow!” and “yellow tree!”
We thought we’d seen the best of the best by the time we went through Cottonwood Pass, between Chaffee and Gunnison counties. Then we reached Highway 135. The road has historically been used for cattle drives, and the animals still graze public lands and roam along much of the route freely. Sure, this makes driving slow in the early hours to account for cow crossing, but slow speeds allow time to better appreciate the scenery (and baby cows jogging to keep up with their moms only adds to the picturesque drive). Little did we know, cows would become a recurring theme.
The sunset view from the porch at our Airbnb ended each day in a burst of color. During the day, the back porch was the perfect spot to be surrounded by aspens without having to leave the property. Photos: Nickolaus Hines / Heather Leyva
Our home for the weekend with eight adults and two toddlers was an impressive house just outside of Crested Butte proper. Mountain views could be soaked in from all angles along the patio, porch with a hot tub, and large windows. We were there to see more than the immediate area around the Airbnb, but some of the best sights were right outside the door: dramatic sunsets, roaming bucks and families of deer, and, of course, yellow aspens.
BookLeaf peeping along Judd Falls in Crested ButteGetting there: Drive Highway 135 from Crested Butte toward Gothic. Park at the Copper Creek lot at the base.Distance: 1 mileMax elevation: 9,882Elevation gain: 166 feetDifficulty: Easy
The hike to Judd Falls is a short drive from Crested Butte past the town of Gothic, an abandoned mining town that has been home to the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory since 1928. In addition to field researchers, the town is filled with many cows that wander up to the trails to graze. Photo: Heather Leyva
The cows stay close to the trail and tolerate photo-hungry hikers, but always keep a safe distance. Photo: Nickolaus Hines
The waterfall at the top of the one-mile hike isn’t the most striking in the world, but the path to get there with the sound of falling water in the background is the perfect quick afternoon jaunt. Photos: Nickolaus Hines
Leaf peeping along Lower Loop in Crested ButteGetting there: Take a left on First Street in Crested Butte and drive the unpaved Peanut Lake road. Park in the designated spot, or the family and wheelchair accessible parking spot half a mile up.Distance: 6.4 milesMax elevation: 9,096Elevation gain: 640 feetDifficulty: Easy
Lower Loop trail runs just over six miles with a max elevation of about 9,000 feet. It’s relatively easy with a clear path and low elevation gain through trees with mountain views in abundance. Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Perhaps the most striking part of the Lower Loop trail in the fall are the aspen tree tunnels along the path. Photos: Nickolaus Hines
While the path is easy to follow even with a baby in tow, note that it’s also popular with local mountain bikers who aren’t too pleased about the popularity of Lower Loop for people walking. Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Lower Loop stays close to the Slate River. Near the start of the loop (or the end on the way back), there’s a nice place to stop off to skip rocks and dip toes in the water. Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Lower Loop is a great hike for people with little ones, with portions that even the newest walkers can manage. Photos: Nickolaus Hines / Heather Leyva
More like thisTravelThe 13 Best Places for Leaf Peeping in United States in 2024New ‘Uber Safari’ Lets Up to Four People Go on Safari for Only $200 – Total
South Africa is one of the most popular places in the world for safari vacations, though most well-known game parks like Kruger are close to Johannesburg, in the northern part of the country. But if you’re in Cape Town, the most-visited city in the country, you can still go on a “Big Five” safari. And a company you’ve likely used before just launched what may be the easiest way ever to get close to a lion or rhino.
Uber announced on Sept 30 a new ‘Go Anywhere’ experience: Uber Safari. It’s a limited-time travel experience from the ride-booking company, available on Fridays and Saturdays from October 2024 to the end of January 2025. The experience includes transportation from Cape Town to Aquila Private Game Reserve (a roughly two-hour drive), as well as a welcome drink, lunch, and an two-to-three hour game drive in an open-air vehicle across the reserve’s 250,000 acres. After the drive, safari-goers will have time to use Aquila’s pool and outdoor facilities before returning to Cape Town. It’s one of several private reserves in the region that offer game drive experiences akin to shorter versions of those at national parks.
The offering will be visible under “Suggestions” for Uber users in South Africa. Photo: Uber Safari
The experience is only bookable through the Uber app for users in South Africa and available at $200 — total. That includes up to four people, so it’s a great deal for anyone traveling in a group. While solo travelers with their own vehicles may find it cheaper to book directly with the Aquila Game Reserve website at 995 Rand, or about $58, per person. But if you don’t have a car, Uber Safari will still be cheaper, as Uber estimates the one-way fare from Cape Town to Aquila at R2500, or about $151. Booking similar all-in-one packages via websites like Viator or GetYourGuide is slightly cheaper, at $193 and $169 per person, though they often require two-person minimums (so it may be get cancelled if no one else books).
That means if you have four people, you may be able to do a safari drive for just $50 per person. Booking it via Uber Safari guarantees reliable transportation, as getting a ride from the reserve all the way back to Cape Town could be a challenge. That’s likely why the brand expects the safaris to book quickly, advising travelers reserve as far in advance as possible (though you need to be in South Africa to see the offering on the app). “Availability of Uber Safari trips is expected to be limited,” reads the announcement. Riders looking to book are encouraged to book in advance using our Reserve technology. Uber Safari will be visible to all riders in South Africa.”
The experience includes the use of Uber-branded vehicles throughout the day. Photo: Uber Safari
The offering isn’t Uber’s first foray into experiences, rather than just rides. In October 2023, Uber introduced 150 Euro (about $166) hot air balloon rides over Türkiye’s Cappadocia region, and introduced 1600 Euro (about $1,780) “Uber Yacht” bookings in July 2024 in Ibiza, allowing up to eight guests to spend the afternoon on a luxury yacht.
September 28, 2024
Delta’s New Summer Schedule Directly Connects the East Coast to Sicily
Following the success of Delta’s 2024 European summer schedule, the airline will significantly expand its European network next year by introducing seven new routes and increasing capacity on several existing ones.
Joe Esposito, Delta’s senior vice president of network planning, says the airline will operate 700 weekly flights to 33 European destinations during the summer of 2025, making it the largest transatlantic schedule in its history. “We’re expanding access to key cities like Barcelona and Dublin with new routes, while introducing our first-ever non-stop service to Catania, Sicily,” Esposito adds.
A daily direct flight to Sicily from New York (JFK) will start in May 2025, making this an excellent connection for those on the East Coast to the ancient port city of Catania. Sitting under the shadow of Mount Etna, Catania is the second largest city on Sicily. Built on the edge of the Ionian sea on the eastern seaboard of the island, Catania’s culture is influenced by Italy, North Africa, and the Mediterranean. Which means a lot of exciting things, but most important a incredible food scene. And it’s seaside position makes easy to beach hop, or flop and drop at one of the many exceptional resorts or Airbnbs.
To make the rest of Italy even more accessible, Delta will also launch three other new services to the country, including routes from Atlanta to Naples (four flights per week), Minneapolis-St Paul to Rome (four flights per week), Boston to Milan (four flights per week). The airline is the largest US carrier to Italy with a service increasing 10 percent annually.
Delta are also increasing their connectability to Spain, Ireland, and Belgium with three weekly flights from Boston to Barcelona, Detroit to Dublin (four per week), and Atlanta to Brussels (three per week).
In addition to these exciting new destinations, the airline will up its capacity on five existing European routes: flights from Atlanta to Athens will rise to 11 per week, Atlanta-Barcelona will go up to 10 weekly services, and the Atlanta-Rome route will see 17 flights per week. The airline will also upgrade its Atlanta to Zurich route to a daily service and increase flights between Detroit and Munich to daily as well.
September 27, 2024
How Are Outdoor Organizations Actually Spending Your Donations? I Traveled to Washington, DC, to Find Out.
Everyone in the outdoor space is on a mission. Some are on a mission to the summit. Others a mission to top out the next pitch. In recent years, however, the term “mission” has gained a new connotation as the mission-driven brand has become commonplace. Patagonia, whose mission is to “Save our home planet,” famously went all-in on its eco-friendly pledge with founder Yvon Choinard’s $3 billion donation of the company into a climate-focused trust. Pro snowboarder Jeremy Jones founded Protect Our Winters to engage the snowsports community in environmental stewardship and activism (his snowboard brand, Jones Snowboards, operates in much the same manner, though without shunning profits).
These are but a small sample of the outdoors community’s growing mission to advocate for land and planet. Environmentally-focused non-profits took in some $8 billion in 2020. You, as a consumer, can donate to POW or buy a new jacket from Patagonia with the understanding that your dollar goes towards this cause – but what exactly does that mean? How are these brands and organizations advocating for environmental stewardship, and does it actually make a difference? I traveled to Capitol Hill in Washington, DC, to go behind-the-scenes with Outdoor Alliance, a coalition of outdoor advocacy groups such as the International Mountain Bicycling Association and the Surfrider Foundation, along with a cohort of professional athletes, to find out.
‘Is that Tommy Caldwell wearing a tie?’
Tommy Caldwell, wearing a tie. Photo: Torch Pictures
Never has there been a segment of the population that feels more awkward in formal wear than the outdoor community. At 9 AM on a Tuesday, 80 or so climbers, mountain bikers, backcountry skiers, and surfers gathered in a conference room above the Outdoor Alliance office north of Capitol Hill. Around my neck was the tie I wore on my wedding day in 2016 that had remained tied on a hanger in my closet ever since. It was 90 degrees outside and humid. I felt as though I were in the scene of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas when Raul Duke first arrived at the hotel and was waiting to check in, just as he peaked on the drugs he’d taken en route. “I was pouring sweat,” Duke proclaimed. “I’ve never been able to properly explain myself in this climate.”
We were gathered for a briefing before heading to Congress to lobby for final passage of the EXPLORE Act, which aims to enhance outdoor recreation opportunities and accessibility on federal lands. By improving infrastructure, streamlining permitting, and modernizing technology, the Act seeks to create a more welcoming and enjoyable experience and boost local economies through tourism and outdoor recreation. Ultimately, the Act seeks to ensure that everyone, regardless of their background or abilities, has the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of spending time in nature on federal lands. The bill passed in the House of Representatives earlier this year, and Outdoor Alliance members now sought to encourage its passage through the Senate, likely as an addendum to the National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), the major defense budget bill that congress authorizes each year. The group felt we were close – the senators needed encouragement to bring their version to the floor and figure out where it could fit into future funding.
“Outdoor Alliance helped develop an earlier version of the EXPLORE Act, and in particular, we were interested in designing legislation that would be a “terrestrial” Wild & Scenic River designation, allowing land to be protected for its recreation values,” Adam Cramer, Executive Director of Outdoor Alliance, told me. “We worked on that bill for many years and then it evolved into America’s Outdoor Recreation Act/EXPLORE Act, which is what stands to be passed at the end of this year.”
Getting lawmakers on board with the concept of EXPLORE wasn’t the hard part – it was securing funding as part of that larger NDAA package or another piece of legislation.
“EXPLORE is unique because it’s the first attempt to pull together a lot of policy ideas around how to improve and protect outdoor recreation on federal lands and waters,” Cramer says. “Even though outdoor recreation participation is growing, and the outdoor economy is growing, there has not yet been a lot of policy that looks to improve how the Forest Service, Park Service, and BLM handle outdoor recreation on public lands. This is the first big effort to think through how we can expand and protect recreation access, including improving equitable access and sustainable recreation.”
Congressman Bruce Westerman of Arkansas speaks at REI. Photo: Torch Pictures
This became the mantra as coalitions from several states and organizations made their way to the Hill. I’d never before sat in on a meeting with congress. The same stood true for several members of the Grasstops Collective, a group of athletes and advocates trained by Outdoor Alliance to do just that. We divided up into groups by state, as the best way to nudge a lawmaker is to send constituents right to their office. Each consisted of a leader from an Outdoor Alliance member organization, one or more Grasstops Collective members, and in some cases a pro athlete or another advocate with a specific voice to amplify.
On day one I joined a group from Washington state led by members of The Mountaineers, an Outdoor Alliance member and advocacy group based in Seattle. We met first with Congressman Derek Kilmer, who represents Washington’s 6th District. He led by telling us a story of a recent long hike gone awry. Listening to Conor Marshall from The Mountaineers speak to the EXPLORE Act and more specifically the PARC Act, which aims to preserve the legality of fixed anchors in wilderness areas, I recognized immediately that I’d uncovered a deeper layer of activism, that this was that dollar from my Patagonia jacket going to work.
“The real meat of a trip is in the few sentences where connections are made with members or their staff,” Dillon Osleger, pro mountain biker and Executive Director of Sage Trail Alliance, later told me. I joined Osleger and the California team on day two, where we met with the office of Senator Alex Padilla of California as well as several House members. “The biggest impact isn’t in pure facts or calculated statistics about the purported economic impacts of a bill, but rather in stories. Members of legislation want to hear individuals speak to how the law impacts them positively and negatively right now, and be provided with a clear path to ways to solve that issue.”
What struck me most about the congressional meetings was how non-intimidating they were. After introductions, each person spoke to why they believe in the EXPLORE Act and in conservation more broadly. Concerns were raised around stalled funding for the National Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management. The lawmakers or the staff member in the meeting took notes, asked a few questions if they had them, and generally found common ground.
To be involved, or not to be involved, in on-the-ground advocacy
The Outdoor Alliance crew on the capitol steps. Photo: Torch Pictures
My first night in town I attended an event at REI’s downtown DC location that featured a talk from Congressman Bruce Westerman of Arkansas. He said he believed that the EXPLORE Act would pass the senate unanimously and be headed to President Biden’s desk by the end of the year. This could prove critical to the National Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management, two of the three federal agencies tasked with protecting public lands. Each has seen critical underfunding in recent years even as outdoor recreation has increased since the COVID-19 pandemic. These agencies can’t do it alone. They need you, they need me – they need public advocacy from the people who use the land. If EXPLORE passes, the behind-the-scenes work from the people at this event will be a big part of the reason why.
After two days of lobbying, Outdoor Alliance hosted a party at the Eaton DC hotel’s rooftop bar in celebration of the group’s 10th anniversary. In the room were reps from each of the 10 member organizations, Grasstops Collective advocates, journalists, donors, and a slew of professional athletes including climbers Tommy Caldwell and Nina Williams, and Osleger, the mountain biker. Caldwell, there on behalf of Patagonia and indeed donning a tie, spoke to the group.
“I didn’t know if this model worked at first,” Caldwell said about bringing athletes and advocates together to lobby. “But I’ve seen bills proposed and bills passed, and I really believe in it. And this is why we should all give a shit.”
Traveling for advocacy is a fulfilling, and too often overlooked, reason for travel. I found that another great reason to get involved is that there’s no better way to retain faith in the democratic process. Apathy breeds anger and discontent. The world is run by those who show up – and Outdoor Alliance is proof that the outdoor industry isn’t a no-show. Sitting in the room while expert lobbyists and advocates from organizations I’ve emailed with or donated to for years is eye-opening because it adds depth to concept of being “conservation-oriented outdoors people.” You hear that over and over, but to actually be in the room when progress is being made, and to share a handshake or a beer with the people making it happen, validates the industry’s claims. This is the opposite of greenwashing – these climbers, mountain bikers, rafters, and skiers are here, in person, advocating for what they believe to be right in the world. Anyone can do this – all you need to do is get involved with an advocacy group tied to your sport of choice.
I learned that effective lobbying is, as Osleger said, led by relationship building. It’s about saying to the lawmaker, “Hey, thanks for all you do. We got your back, please have ours.” Lawmakers and their staff are people just like us, often toiling in a thankless environment. Each person I spoke with throughout my time in DC, from the opening reception at REI through to the closing party, shared a story about the moment they first cared about conservation. Eventually, all had come to the conclusion they could accomplish more by coming together. This is the basis of Outdoor Alliance, which includes organizations tied to most major human-powered outdoor sports.
This benefits travelers and athletes of all stripes because more protections of public lands means more places to recreate, more spaces for the reasons we travel, and more jobs within the outdoor recreation and travel industries. Sitting behind me at the briefing on the first day was Rebecca Goodstein, Patagonia’s Senior Manager of Environmental Activism. I followed up with her to ask about the company’s top priorities for stewardship and although I felt I’d gained some insight, how, exactly, the company funnels money into activism. She told me that much of that happens through the popular 1% for the Planet program, which prompts companies and organizations to donate 1 percent of revenue to environmental causes. Patagonia, of course, contributes extensively.
“This commitment is part of our business charter but what the public doesn’t see, and I’m especially proud of, is that we give agency to our retail teams to decide which organizations to fund since they work, play, and live in these communities,” Goodstein told me. “They have close relationships with these nonprofits and support them holistically – in addition to grants – by hosting them for in-store events, by having employees volunteer for the organizations, and by providing access to our Patagonia Action Works platform. What results are authentic, meaningful relationships between our retail teams and these nonprofits.”
Your advocacy dollar, going to work
Meeting with Rep. Derek Kilmer of Washington. Photo courtesy Tim Wenger
There are two crazy things about lobbying Congress for something you’re passionate about. The first is that it’s impossible not to bring emotion into play. Everyone has a story about the outdoors. Whether from their childhood or from just last week, these memories are a part of who each American is, and more broadly, who we are as a nation. While all parties behind a bill won’t agree on, or even care about, every word that goes into it, what moves massive legislative packages forward is the common emotion behind them. Every citizen worth their right to vote can champion this one greatest cause of democracy – that society is better because we have a say in it, and that broad strokes towards progress are better than baby steps towards perfection. Conservation is an ideal example of this because no one has ever been worse off due to the preservation of the natural order. Humanity didn’t start it, but we can prevent ourselves from ending it.
The second crazy thing is that activism works. Outdoor Alliance has been instrumental in preserving millions of acres of public land through initiatives like the John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation, Management, and Recreation Act (see more of the group’s impact on its website). The coalition has on many occasions successfully advocated for increased funding for public lands and outdoor recreation, including the Great American Outdoors Act, which in 2020 provided billions of dollars for maintenance and improvements. Most notably, the coalition brings unique perspectives from across outdoor recreation together to champion a greater cause, while still focusing on core issues that impact individual sports. Each lawmaker or staff member we spoke with shared a story about their own time spent outdoors – proof that their heartstrings were tugged at least a little bit, and that the cause of environmental champions from Pliny the Elder to John Muir to Yvon Choinard is alive and well.
Immerse Yourself in Prince’s World of ‘Purple Rain’ With a Stay at ‘The Kid’s House’ for $7 Per Person
July this year marked the 40th anniversary of the release of Purple Rain, and while a lot has changed since 1984, there are still cherished places from the film in Minneapolis you can visit. Perhaps the most famous is “The Kid’s House,” locally known as “The Prince House,” and you can stay overnight with Airbnb.
We hope you love the Purple Rain house Airbnb we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
You can request a booking at this Prince experience from October 2 at 6:00 PM PT through October 6 at 11:59 PM PT.
The epic listing is part of Airbnb’s Icons Category, which launched in May 2024. This year, we’ve already been offered the opportunity to stay in a live-sized Polly Pocket in Massachusetts and Carl’s home from Disney and Pixar’s Up, sleepover in the Ferrari Museum, and hang out with Kevin Hart at his private speakeasy.
Unlike many other Airbnb listings, Icons events are priced below $100 per person, making them accessible to a wide range of travelers and fans.
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: Airbnb
Photo: AirbnbSee more photosThe Airbnb is managed by lifelong friends and collaborators of Prince, Wendy Melvoin and Lisa Coleman, who have lovingly created an immersive experience with displays of Prince’s personal collection of memorabilia — including their wardrobe.
Photo: Airbnb
See more photosAlthough you won’t be able to squeeze into the purple suit, there will be 80’s inspired outfits so you can play dress-up while listening to iconic tracks.
And if you’re musically inclined, you can visit the music lounge and play the piano, guitar, or drums. Melvoin and Coleman will leave instructions on how to play the chorus of Purple Rain (and pre-recorded audio of Prince).
Photo: Airbnb
See more photos“The Purple Rain house stands as a tribute to our dear friend Prince, the timeless character he brought to life, and the lasting impact he continues to have. We hope the space gives fans a glimpse into the eclectic world Prince created, and visitors walk away feeling a little bit closer to him as an artist and person,” says Melvoin and Coleman.
Photo: Airbnb
See more photosAlthough the bedroom — which is decked out like The Kid’s room — might be enough for fans, Airbnb has whispered that there is a secret space accessible through a hidden door. There will be no instructions on how to access this, but it’s promised the room will be “filled with treasures,” which you’ll find out about if you answer seven clues correctly.
The Purple Rain house Airbnb will be available for a limited number of one-night stays, priced at $7 per person. Each stay will include exclusive access to the home, curated experiences, and the opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of Purple Rain.
September 26, 2024
Santa Fe’s Original Burning Man Just Turned 100. Here’s What It’s Like.
For most of us, the bogeyman lives under the bed or maybe in a closet, making unpredictable appearances when the house is dark and quiet. In Santa Fe, he comes out just once a year on the Friday before Labor Day. That’s when residents and visitors gather by the tens of thousands to stuff Santa Fe’s iconic bogeyman full of all their woes — overdue bills, divorce papers, eviction notices — and burn him up.
That’s a tough gig. But the bogeyman, a 50-foot-tall marionette called Zozobra, keeps coming back. In fact, the Zozobra festival turned 100 this year. It’s an integral part of life in Santa Fe, so much so that it’s taught in schools, occupies a place of pride in a large display inside the New Mexico History Museum, and draws crowds of community members throughout the day, whether they’re helping heft Zozobra’s giant body into place for the ceremonial burning or just enjoying the sight of seeing him assembled.
Gathering for the spectacle
Photo: Lisa Maloney
On the evening of this year’s Zozobra festival, a sell-out crowd of 65,000 people packed into the ball field at Fort Marcy Park for the bogeyman’s burning and all of the pageantry leading up to it. During the day, the scene was more relaxed, with hundreds of locals filtering through to witness the unveiling of a new Zozobra-shaped hot air balloon, then of Zozobra himself.
Zozobra is so large that he has to be trucked to the park in several pieces. He’s assembled on site and then raised onto the utility pole that will hold him with the help of a heavy-duty utility crane and dozens of volunteers, who heft his pliant body closer to the pole by main force as the crane takes up the slack.
Small crowds of schoolchildren, assembled on the grassy field below the cement stage where the marionette burns, chanted “Hang him up!” in their young, piping voices. They were eager to do their part in ensuring that Old Man Gloom, another name for Zozobra, goes up in flames to dismiss the community’s accumulated glooms, another name for the woes that have been stuffed into Zozobra’s body.
Photo: Lisa Maloney
No doubt, touches of humor help keep the Zozobra festival from descending into the macabre — like playing the Imperial March from Star Wars over loudspeakers as he’s raised up onto his scaffolding. But what struck me most about the festival was the community’s matter-of-fact and joyous acceptance of this embodiment of their distressers.
In many ways, the people of Santa Fe treat Zozobra as a beloved friend who shows up every year. They dress him in celebratory fashion: Last year he was dressed up like Lord Voldemort, the villain from the Harry Potter series, to celebrate the decade of the 20-teens. This year he showed up for his centennial in full formalwear with a bow tie, a boutonniere the size of an elementary schooler, and sparkling gold hair.
They also fete Zozobra — or perhaps the community that defies him, as the personification of all their woes — with hours of pageantry. This year’s act included fantastic young rappers from the Red Bull Batalla tour, dancing from the MaaTuu Pueblo Dancers, and performances from groups including Innastate, Black Pearl Band NM, and Mariachi Euforia.
The community lights a fire
Photo: Lisa Maloney
This year’s main event was unquestionably filled with the ceremonial trappings leading up to Zozobra’s flaming end, from the “gloomies” — community youth who capered at Zozobra’s feet as if he’d lured them to join the world of woes, until community adults menaced him to leave them alone — to the fire dancer in a towering red headdress who danced up and down the stairs at Zozobra’s feet with a flaming torch in each hand, tiny and defiant against his hulking form.
A choreographed light show of drones ticked down a countdown against the backdrop of the dark sky: 10 minutes until Zozobra burns. The drones spelled out “OLD MAN GLOOM” as Zozobra became increasingly restive, groaning and growling as would any monster carrying a whole year of the community’s hurts and glooms.
“BURN HIM,” the drones spelled out a few minutes later, answered by chants from the crowd. After 100 years, the people of Santa Fe know the answer: There’s no way that their accumulated woes from the year, no matter how weighty or menacing they may seem, can stand up to their collective desire to see them gone.
Photo: Lisa Maloney
The flame always wins out in the end, but it’s not the fire dancer who sets the first spark. Instead, someone pushes a button to set off incendiary charges that spray sparks from Zozobra’s body. In what might be the best possible advertisement for making sure you have fresh batteries in your household smoke alarms, it takes mere moments for Zozobra’s body of wood, wire, and fabric to be engulfed in flames.
His groans of fear turned to bellows of rage, arms waving and gesticulating as if he could shove the fire away. The illusion was made complete by the brightness of the flame set against the darkness of the night, conspiring to hide the crew of 15 animators in full fire gear who stood right behind Zozobra, hauling on heavy cables to move his arms, head, and mouth. One more animator was hidden in the crowd, using a remote control to direct Zozobra’s surprisingly expressive eyes.
And then, just a few minutes later, Zozobra was gone. His mostly fabric limbs and head crumbled to nothing, leaving only the wooden scaffolding of his body burning like a torch in the night. A couple minutes later that was gone, too, reduced to a bonfire on the cement… and then nothing.
Photo: Lisa Maloney
Visitors are allowed to contribute glooms to fill Zozobra. I couldn’t recall everything I’d scratched onto the dark sheets of paper I’d been given, except for the name of an ex who’d done me horribly wrong. But there was something deeply satisfying about knowing that everything I’d put into him was gone, riding into the night on the last of the flame and ash he’d generated.
You could feel the energy of the assembled crowd shift from intense focus to jubilation, aided and abetted by an impressively lengthy fireworks display. At least for tonight, we were freed from the weight of the world as we streamed toward the exits and into the dark, many wearing Zozobra t-shirts and other swag, or carrying miniature Zozobras as mementos.
Anyone who’s been on stage before knows there’s a certain catharsis in acting out theater and drama for others. But on that night, I witnessed something just a little different: It was as if all 65,000 people in the crowd had been just as integral to Zozobra’s defeat as those who openly defied him on stage. Together, with the force of our attention and through the proxies of the fire dancer and others who faced Zozobra for us, we had defeated the monster that lives under the bed.
Together we rise
Photo: Lisa Maloney
There is, of course, another layer to that sense of togetherness — the people whose year-round efforts transmute that community spirit into the concrete details of the festival. Although the Zozobra festival was originally conceived by artist Will Shuster and a committee of friends in the 1920s, its last 60 years have, with Shuster’s explicit blessing, been overseen by the Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe.
Any profit from the festival goes to fund nonprofits that support local children. But the festival also generates another layer of connection and support within the community, blending the slow thrum of long-time volunteers with a continuous stream of young people who’re eager to bring their skills and insight to keep the festival going. As anyone who’s ever run a nonprofit or organized a large event can tell you, there’s no better combination than this blending of old and new.
The invisible team of animators, bringing Zozobra to life as he burns practically on top of them, are a superb example of the human connections that knit together to make the festival go: They’re retirees, city employees, hospitality workers, and more. Many of them have been doing this for years — and the satisfaction of a job well done, and the community appreciation for their efforts, keeps them coming back.
“Zozobra has been a family tradition for me and my father for years,” explained Shannon Martinez, the animation assistant who moves Zozobra’s mouth. “We have both been part of the Zozobra family for 28 years.”
Martinez’s father is part of the crew that builds Zozobra and also directs the team of animators. She, meanwhile, first participated as a gloomy at 12 years old. After a few years of that she became a torchbearer, then a spotlight operator — and then 15 years ago, she joined the animation crew to help move Zozobra’s mouth, matching the live vocals created by a local judge.
I’m sure it’s that continuing injection of young blood, following trajectories like Martinez’s from gloomy to volunteer and then expert animator, that keeps the Zozobra festival evolving. Even as an outsider, it doesn’t take long to see how the festival shifts and changes to match the community’s journey over time, faithfully returning year after year to bear the town’s accumulated glooms back into the night.
The Happiest Cities in the World All Have These 4 Things in Common
The Institute for Quality of Life recently issued its latest Happy City Index, which breaks down the happiest cities in the world into three tiers – Gold, Silver, and Bronze. Only one US city made the list of the 250 happiest cities around the world. However, the real takeaway isn’t who fell short but what the “Gold” rated cities have in common. For starters, most are located in Europe – but it’s how the cities are designed and how they operate rather than their location that makes them ideal places to live and visit. These factors tie together the happiest cities in the world.
The city’s design values people over cars
Aarhus, Denmark, the happiest city in the world. Photo: trabantos/Shutterstock
The most notable thing the “Gold” rated cities have in common is density – rather than having a small urban core surrounded by never-ending suburban sprawl, expansive surface parking lots, and major highways splitting neighborhoods in half, cities like Aarhus and Amsterdam have large city centers in comparison to the total area of the metropolitan zone. Walkability is prioritized. Public transit is easy to access and extensively covers the city. Bike commuting is commonplace, because it’s often the easiest way to get around – especially in Copenhagen, Aarhus, Amsterdam, and the other European cities on the list.
Also common in the highest-rated cities in the study is mixed-use development. Mid- and high-rise buildings that combine residential, entertainment, and professional uses are the backbone of vibrant urban cores. Take Amsterdam – its urban core is lined with apartment flats above pubs and restaurants. It’s easier to arrive at those restaurants on foot or by bicycle than it is via car, because the roads are narrow and parking is scarce.
In short, nearly every “Gold” city prioritizes people over cars – they value good urbanism. This is important to making people happy because it means the cities are designed for people to be able to move around and engage with their surroundings. Cities that are walkable, bikeable, and have a mix of uses are not only better for people to live, work, and play in close proximity to each other, but they’re also better places to visit. If you were to plan a trip to my hometown of Denver, Colorado, you’d stay in Denver – not the suburb of Littleton, where I grew up.
Denver has a largely bikeable and walkable urban center that includes downtown as well as several surrounding neighborhoods. The light rail and bus system services most of these areas, but not all of it. But in a metro area of over 3 million people, only about ¼ of the residents live in the actual city of Denver. The vast majority live in suburbs and have to commute to the city to take advantage of office space, entertainment, and other urban amenities.
Urbanism creates a stronger sense of community. When people live in close proximity to each other and have opportunities to interact with each other, they are more likely to feel connected to their neighbors and to the city as a whole. This sense of community can lead to greater happiness and well-being.
Osaka Castle in Osaka, Japan. Photo: iamlukyeee /Shutterstock
Sometimes, the best part of a city is how easy it is to get out of it. Or, at least to take a break within it. The top city on the list – the happiest in the world – is Aarhus, Denmark. Aarhus inhabits the Jutland Peninsula, an area renowned for a strong connection to nature. The city offers its residents and visitors easy access to Marselisborg Forest and stretches along the coast with ample hiking, biking, and even a bit of forest bathing.
One need not even leave the city to fell connected to nature. The Botanical Garden showcases a diverse collection of plants with walking trails and a chance to escape the grind right in the middle of town. Den Permanente is a “sea bath” and museum that features sculptures and installations that blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings – and plenty of space to relax and go for a swim. There are other beaches and access points to the water, a lot of parks and urban green spaces at strategic points throughout the city.
In this regard, Aarhus is not the exception. Brisbane, Vienna, Stockholm, Minneapolis – each of these cities offers easy access to the outdoors, typically without requiring much of a drive to get there.
Museums and cultural sights are aplenty
Kunstmuseum in Basel, Switzerland. Photo: lauravr/Shutterstock
Feeling connected to a place requires understanding its place in the world. The happiest cities index is, from a cultural lens, a rundown of cities with incredible museums and plenty of chances to engage with the city’s history. Basel, Switzerland, which placed 19th on the list, is certainly not alone in being a cultural hub. The Kunstmuseum Basel houses an extensive collection of European art, while the Museum Tinguely showcases kinetic sculptures by Jean Tinguely. The Museum der Kulturen Basel offers insights into different cultures, while the Antikenmuseum Basel focuses on ancient artifacts. The Swiss Architecture Museum explores the history and development of Swiss architecture. A visitor could spend weeks just exploring the city’s cultural sights – a perk that certainly makes for an engaged population and visitor base.
It’s easy to eat your way around the globe, without traveling to do so
Photo: Marc Bruxelle /Shutterstock
Of course, it’s hard to be happy when you’re hangry. People need to eat. The culinary story of each city on the Happy City Index is unique, but each isn’t confined to one taste or cuisine. Rather, you can eat your way around the world. Ottawa, Canada – 37th on the list – isn’t widely known as a “foodie” city. But spend time there and it’s easy to be convinced that it is. There’s Canadian classics like poutine and maple syrup-glazed salmon. Ottawa offers several Michelin-starred restaurants. The city’s food truck scene covers the globe and covers the city’s trendy breweries and hangout spots, and the ByWard Market showcases locally grown produce and fare.
More Than 50 Campers Got Sick on a Hawaiʻi Hiking Trail, and Poop Is the Problem
Another day, another gorgeous outdoor destinations impacted by too many people and not enough responsibility.
Hawaiʻi’s Nāpali Coast on the island of Kauaʻi is one of the most well-known landscapes in the entire state. But Hawaiʻi hikers hoping to explore the 22-mile section of the Nāpali Coast’s Kalalau Trail on foot are out of luck for now, as the entire trail is closed indefinitely due to safety concerns. This month, more than 50 hikers fell ill after backpacking or using the restroom and sink facilities at a campground near Kalalau Beach. The Kalalau Trail norovirus closure was expected to last roughly two weeks, but has been extended indefinitely as more and more cases of the highly transmittable norovirus are being confirmed among hikers and backpackers.
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“The highly contagious norovirus has been identified as the cause of illness to dozens of backpackers along the trail. This viral illness typically causes copious vomiting, often accompanied by fever, abdominal cramps, and diarrhea,” wrote the notification of closure from the Hawai‘i Division of Parks within the Department of Land and Natural Resources. Most infected hikers and backpackers were able to walk out, though some needed medical assistance to leave the campground and were taken to area hospitals for observation.
The trail is one of the prettiest on the island, and had a 60-person cap on how many people can go beyond the day-use area on a single day. For summer of 2024, it was increased to 80. Photo: Raphael Rivest/Shutterstock
Norovirus is spread by ingesting infected water or food sources, direct contact with infected fecal matter, touching surfaces recently touched by someone with norovirus on their hands, or inhaling particles from someone who has norovirus. It’s often associated with densely packed cruise ships, as it spreads quickly in areas with heavy use and dirty surfaces. Norovirus also spreads easier when too many people are using bathroom and sink facilities in rapid succession or in close proximity, or when substances that have norovirus on them (like toilet paper) aren’t properly disposed of.
The virus did not start on the Kalalau Trail, the Division of Parks noted. It was likely introduced to the trail’s facilities by someone who already had the virus. It’s also not the first instance of hikers contracting the virus while outdoors, as it’s been known to spread on both the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Credit Trail in similarly crowded, remote areas. But hikers along the Kalalau Trail reported to media outlets that they blamed the disease’s quick spread on poor management, claiming that the bathroom facilities were “rancid,” and had such an off-putting order that campers opted not to use them. Hikers choosing to do their business in the woods help spread the disease, as this can contaminate water and shared public areas. With bad cases of norovirus, uncontrollable vomiting and diarrhea are common, making it difficult for sick people to get to restroom facilities in time. That, in turn, helps further spread the disease.
One hiker shared images with Kauai News Now of trash heaps in a composting toilet stall, and piles of used toilet paper and tissues tossed around closed bathroom facilities. Hikers blamed the state for not having adequate restroom facilities, as well as a lack of signage informing hikers of where to find restrooms and sanitary facilities.
A park employee mounting a closed sign in front of a sea cave near the campground. Photo: Hawaii Departnment of Land and Natural Resources/Daniel Dennison
According to the State Department of Land and Natural Resources, the issue comes down to personal responsibility of people recreating on the trail. “Visitors are reminded that it against the law to urinate or defecate other than at the toilet facilities provided,” read a recent update on the trail closure from the parks division. Park representatives also told media outlets that health risks were increased by users “not practicing good and safe camping practices.” According to testing by Center for Disease Control, fecal matter — a.k.a., human poop — was found inside the extremely popular (and extremely ecologically sensitive) ocean cave next to the camping area.
Matador Network reached out to the Hawaiʻi Division of State Parks and will update this article when any new information is provided.
As of mid-September, the Kalalau Trail norovirus closure has been extended indefinitely, as state officials undertake extensive cleaning and disinfecting of all facilities along the trail.
I Tested the Coolest Gear Item of the Year on a Hiking Trip to the Redwoods
In addition to writing about adventure travel and adventure sports like hiking, camping, and biking, I also write about the gear you need for those pursuits. For the last decade, I’ve tested and reviewed everything from ski jackets and hiking shoes to bike saddles, carry-on luggage, stargazing chairs, binoculars, and more. I see new gear pitches and products almost every single day — so when I see one that gets me genuinely hyped up, that’s a good sign that it’s a very cool product.
Enter the GeoPress water bottle from Grayl, a brand that exists mostly because of that one product. I first saw a Grayl GeoPress in action at a media event in July, and of the literally hundreds of products displayed, this water bottle stood out the most. It started as Kickstarter project and hit the market in 2021, but I just got my hands on one this year.
How the Grayl GeoPress is different
Just another water bottle with a filter? Not so fast. Photo: Suzie Dundas
The GeoPress is a water bottle with a built-in filter. If you’re an outdoorsy person or hiker, you’re probably thinking “ugh, another water bottle,” or “duh, water filters are a pretty basic item.”
And my friend, I know.
But the Grayl GeoPress is no regular water bottle filter. To start with, it’s a two-part bottle. There’s the outer bottle you fill with water, and the just-slightly-smaller inner bottle, and all the dirty water stays in the outer bottle. By the time it reaches the inner bottle, it’s filtered. That means you can use one GeoPress to filter water for everyone in your group, no matter how many bottles you have, since the filtration happens before you drink (unlike bottles where the filter is in the straw). It uses vacuum pressure to filter the water (sort of like an AeroPress coffee maker), using the pressure of your body weight to filter a full bottle in about 10 seconds.
Sound cool? It is. I picked up one to use on a hiking trip in the California redwoods, and having it was a huge upgrade to my hydration game. So I stand by my assessment: it’s one of the coolest pieces of outdoor gear I’ve seen all year.
We hope you love the gear we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase. That helps us keep our content free, and we never suggest or share products we haven’t tested and researched ourselves. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
Buy Now: $99 How it works
The Grayl GeoPress bottle has two pieces: an outer cup for filling with dirty water, and the inner bottle and filter, which holds the clean water. Photo: Suzie Dundas
Unlike other water bottles with built-in filters, the bottle you drink out of stays totally clean. And the filtration happens before you drink, not during, so you don’t need to worry about having barely any water come out when the filter is dirty.
The process is easy: Scoop dirty water into the outer bottle, place the bottle you drink out of on top, and slowly shift your weight forward to nest the two. The pressure forces dirty water through the filter, leaving the inner bottle with only clean water. Make sure to remember to unscrew the drinking spout so air pressure can get released, or the lid will come off and explode water in your face…not that I learned from experience or anything.
A bit of forward pressure, and boom: the combo creates a vacuum effect, filtering the dirty water through the filter on the bottom of the inner water bottle. Photo: Suzie Dundas
This cool tech means the inside of the bottle will never have dirty water in it, and that can you filter over and over and over to fill as many other bottles as you need. With other water filter bottles, every person needs their own. But not so with the Grayl GeoPress. It also means you can add electrolytes, flavoring, or whatever you want to your water, which you can’t do with other bottles where you’d be adding them into dirty water.
Buy Now: $99 The GeoPress is easy to use
You can fill it up from almost any outdoor water source, so a gorgeous natural waterfall in the redwoods isn’t technically required. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I’ve used water filtration bags, and found that I have to squeeze them so hard to get water through the filter that it hurts my hands. But because all you have to do is push on the GeoPress, it didn’t hurt my hands at all. And really, you don’t even have to push. Once you’ve filled the outer cup from a dirty water source (as with all water filters, avoid salt water or water sources near agriculture), just set the bottle on the ground, put one palm on each side of the lid, and slowly shift your weight forward. I weigh about 135 pounds, and even a minimal shift forward was plenty to activate the filter. Brand new, it took about 10 seconds for me to finish the filtration process. That’s much quicker than most other external water filters.
It’s useful during international travel, too
Chug away — the high-end charcoal filter removes viruses, bacteria, protozoan cysts (like giardia), pesticides, metals, microplastics, and more. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I’ve carried a filter with me on trips to places where water isn’t always reliably clean, and it’s a little annoying. I have to carry a filter and a bottle, and after I’ve used it, I have to put a wet filter back into my purse or backpack. Fortunately, the GeoPress’s all-in-one design means I can fill it from hotel room sinks or public aquifers and have clean, drinkable water in about 15 seconds without carrying any extra tools or devices. It doesn’t leak at all, provided you don’t overfill the bottle.
International, urban, and travel use is why I opted for the olive green color, so it would stand out a bit less in everyday situations. However, if you’re prone to leaving things behind at campsites or snack breaks on the trails, you may want to pick a brighter color so it contrasts against leaves and grass a bit better.
It’s rugged enough for heavy outdoor use
Dirtied and scratched, but extremely durable. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I have to admit, I have broken several Sawyer water filter bags, either because they popped, or they got ripped or torn on rocks. While they’re much cheaper, it feels wasteful to replace them so often. My GeoPress seems able to withstand the elements better, and while hiking in the redwoods, I dropped it and banged it on roots and trees (both on purpose, and not). I dropped it, scratched it, tossed it on rocks and dirt, and covered more than 20 miles of hiking in two days with it by my side or in my backpack.
While the top and sides are a bit scratched, it’s not at all damaged. I was also worried that the outer bottle (the part you put dirty water in) would come loose and fall off, so I tested it by holding it dangling from my hand for about nine miles. But between the tight fit of the two bottles, and the vacuum pressure of filtering, the outer bottle never once seemed like it was coming loose. In fact, the first 10 times or so I used it, I had to pull pretty hard to even separate the inner and outer bottle.
I’m not at all worried about its durability, like I am with “outdoor” bottles that have metal latches or hard plastic pieces that can crack.
Buy Now: $99 The downsides
The Grayl GeoPress fits well in all travel backpacks and pockets I tested, but the grippy material is a little harder to slide into fabric pockets. Not hard — just harder than your average plastic or metal bottle. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I won’t list price as a downside ($99), because affordability is relative, though that’s pricier than more basic products like the LifeStraw Sip. But there are two factors worth considering.
First, the water bottle isn’t quite as big as it looks, since the cartridge takes up about 1/5 of the space in the bottle. You need to fill the outer bottle only to the fill line. If you overfill it, the filter won’t push down any more when you’re filtering. And if you keep pushing, it will (once again) explode in your face. A standard Nalgene holds 32 ounces; the GeoPress is 24 ounces. So you may want to carry a second bottle if you’ll only have one chance to fill up and filter during an all-day hike. However, the capacity is the same as other bottles from outdoor brands like Stanley, Yeti, LifeStraw, and more.
The filter needs replaced every 350 pushes, or 65 gallons, and costs $30 to replace, though every purchase comes with a free one. I thought that seemed like a lot of replacements, but then I looked at comparable bottles, and it’s comparable to the most-used alternative: the $65 LifeStraw 24-ounce “Go Bottle.” That filter needs replaced every 26 gallons. Of course, somehow, the Sawyer bottle with a filter built into the straw claims to be good for 100,000 gallons. So I’m hesitant to claim the Grayl is better or worse than any industry average.
Fortunately, you don’t need to count how many times you’ve pressed: it stops working when it’s dirty. So if it’s filtering water, you’re good to go.
If the Grayl GeoPress pushes all the way down, it means the filter is good to go. It won’t filter (and therefore won’t push down) if the filter needs replaced. Photo: Suzie Dundas
The other downside is maybe petty, but noticeable. The bottle is made with a rubbery-feeling exterior, which makes it easy to grip when it’s wet. But the grippiness also makes it harder to slide into a backpack pocket as compared to a metal or smooth plastic bottle.
The GeoPress actually does come in a metal version. It’s called the GeoPress Titanium, and is designed to fit smoother into backpack pockets. It’s also entirely metal, allowing the outer cup to double as a cook pot on camp stoves. The downside is it’s twice the price, at $199.
Buy Now: $99 The verdict: who will like the GeoPress the most?
The GeoPress Titanium, above, weighs less and has applications for camp cooking, so it may appeal more to backpackers focused on saving weight. Photo: REI/Grayl
The pros: Fast and easy to use, two-bottle system is quick and allows you to fill unlimited bottles, durable, all-in-one system, easy to clean
The cons: Heavier than other bottles, filter eats into the volume a bit
It’s no secret that I find the GeoPress to be a useful little item, and I expect I’ll use it quite a bit on day hikes, paddleboard sessions (on fresh water), or road trips where I’m filling up water from gas station sinks.
The GeoPress seems well suited to any hiker or traveler who wants both easy access to clean water, paired with the ability to fill other bottles and containers. However, it may not appeal to ultralight backpackers who count every ounce, as something like an ultralight Nalgene (3.5 ounces) plus a Sawyer bag and filter (2.5 ounces) weighs less than the GeoPress’s 15 ounces. So it’s probably better for day hikers, travelers, and people spending extended hours outside, rather than multi-day backpackers. And obviously, it’s best for people who expect to have water sources available while outdoors.
But if you want an all-in one bottle without the need to carry a filter and bag, it’s ideal. And if you are used to chugging water when traveling and hate having to rely on filtered waster or buying bottles of water, it’a a no-brainer. Either way, for most people, it’ll be a really convenient and quite useful piece of outdoor gear.
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