Matador Network's Blog, page 1020
September 5, 2019
Passenger flies EasyJet plane

Budget airlines get a bad rap, but you have to admit, they do make for some of the best travel stories. When an EasyJet flight from Manchester Airport in the UK to Alicante, Spain, was delayed because the pilot went missing, a passenger stepped up to fly the plane. And no, it’s not as terrifying as it may sound. Licensed EasyJet pilot Michael Bradley happened to be aboard the plane and, learning of the delay in advance, brought along his license and ID just in case his services were needed.
In a video shared on Facebook, he can be heard giving passengers a rundown of the situation:
“My wife who’s on row 15 with my little boy — hopefully he’s asleep by now, I should keep it down or else I’ll get told off — she rolled over and punched me in the back of the head and said, ‘Our flight’s delayed by two hours because they are minus one captain for the flight.’ So just before we went through security, I thought, I wonder if this is worth a phone call, think it is because I’d like to go on holiday. I phoned up EasyJet and said, ‘Hiya, I’m standing in the terminal doing nothing. I have got my licence with me — deliberately from being punched in the back of the head at 3:00 AM — I have got my ID with me, and I’d very much like to go on holiday, and if you need a favor I’m standing here ready to go.”
The video was posted by passenger Michelle Potts, who wrote in the caption, “It could only happen to me!! Get to the airport and our flight is delayed a couple of hours… then I happen to look at the original time and it changed to gate closing!! Had to leg it across the airport to get on the flight… Get to boarding and asked the guy at the desk what’s going on he said ‘oh your pilot’s gone missing but a guy that’s going on your flight is going to fly the plane’ REALLY CASUALLY!!! Luckily the guy was actually a pilot!! probably would of been cancelled if it wasn’t for him! Legend.”
An EasyJet spokesperson expressed the airline’s gratitude, saying, “We are grateful to one of our pilots who was travelling on holiday from Manchester to Alicante on 2 September with his family and volunteered to operate the flight. This meant customers could get to their destination and shows the commitment and dedication of our crew. This is fully in line with regulations as he had his licence and ID with him. Safety is always our highest priority.” 

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Know before visiting Uzbekistan

Central Asia is a region that has kept its secrets close for centuries, with some countries, like Uzbekistan, resisting opening up to the world until very recently. Some dedicated travelers have found their way to the “Stans,” but beyond the country’s name and status as a former part of the USSR, most don’t have much knowledge of the countries in this region. If you are starting to think about a journey to Uzbekistan, you absolutely should, but here’s what you should know before you visit.
1. Uzbekistan itself is a modern invention.

Photo: eranicle/Shutterstock
That is to say, the concept of Uzbekistan did not exist even a century ago. The Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic was created in 1925. Before that, there were assorted Soviet-controlled Soviet Socialist Republics. These were formed from previous geo-political states, including the Emirate of Bukhara, the Khanate of Khiva, and Guberniya of Turkestan — a part of the Russian Empire. Before these formations, Central Asians lived in settlements and as part of nomadic tribes ruled by Khans, Emirs, and Emperors. People moved around the region with no regard for borders as we think of them today.
2. Uzbekistan is not just the “land of the Uzbeks.”

Photo: Andrey N Bannov/Shutterstock
Different ethnicities have lived in the lands now called Uzbekistan for centuries — Tajiks, Kyrgyz, Uigurs, Karakalpaks, Turkmen, Afghans, and more. In the eastern part of the country, in Bukhara and Samarkand in particular, the majority of people will identify themselves as ethnic Tajiks. Their dialect of Persian is widely spoken there, as well as in the city of Ferghana in the country’s far east. The western part of Uzbekistan has a noticeable autonomous region, the Republic of Karakalpakstan, where a language similar to Kazakh is spoken. Other nationalities, such as Turkmen, Kazakh, and Uighur also have strong presences in different regions.
These influences and their interaction with Uzbek tradition have created distinct aesthetics, food, and customs. For instance, the Khorezmian Lazgi dance (for example, surnay lazgi set to music where the surnay brass instrument features heavily) is easy to pick out from others with its bright, feather-hat costume and energetic movements. Bukhara’s ancient tradition of Shashmaqam music is prominent, as are its Persian roots.
Samarkand is famous for its patir, a type of raised bread made with animal fat or butter. Other nationalities moved or settled in Uzbekistan in the last century too, such as Russians, Koreans, Georgians, Armenians, Poles, Ukrainians, and Greeks. In a surprising example, you can learn about German Mennonites who lived in Khorezm in the 19th and 20th centuries at a museum in Khiva. It has items they may have used or crafted and information about how and why they settled in the village of Oq-machit (“white mosque”).
3. The cultural mix means there are a lot of different cuisines.

Photo: Sun_Shine/Shutterstock
Due to the Soviet practice of voluntary and forced shuffling of people from their places of origin, in Uzbekistan, foods from different ethnic groups sometimes meet together on one table. Tatar belish (small friend meat and potato pie) and chebureki (flat, deep-fried dough pockets with minced meat) are eaten by all with equal enthusiasm. Korean, now-local, markavcha (slightly marinated shredded carrot), pigodi (steamed buns), and kuksi (cold broth with noodles and vegetables) are typical fast-food eats. You could try lagman, a meat and vegetable noodle dish, two ways — Uzbek and Uighur, the first being more soupy. The national dish, plov, is made with varied ingredients and using differing techniques in each region, so it would be prudent to try it in every place you visit.
4. Being inviting and helpful to guests is a national tradition.

Photo: MehmetO/Shutterstock
Hospitality is a trait in all of Central Asia, and Uzbeks take pride in carrying it on from generation to generation. You might be invited to someone’s house for a meal or offered directions by a stranger who sees you looking lost. People living in Uzbekistan are determined to make sure you are having a good time, which can take many forms, from offering you advice to a drink of vodka. If you end up eating at someone’s home, be prepared for the very enthusiastic and frequent serving of food. To make sure your host understands that you really are full, leave a little on your plate. It’s also good to show up with something for the table — sweets or dessert to share will do the trick. Don’t bring alcohol, even if you’ve seen your host drink, since they might be cautious of doing so with their family present.
5. The local interpretation of Islam is moderate.

Photo: MehmetO/Shutterstock
More and more people actively practice Islam, but there are still plenty of those who will go to prayer on Friday and have a drink on Saturday. As foreigners, unless you are visiting an actual operating mosque, you aren’t expected to keep your legs, arms, or head covered. In tourist areas, you probably won’t shock anyone by wearing your usual clothes. In other parts of the country, depending on how rural it is, it will be typical for both men and women to dress on the modest side. It’s also worth remembering that, historically, the people living in this part of the world used to hold different kinds of beliefs — Zoroastrianism, Buddhism, and Hinduism being some major religions present before Islam. Even with most of the population becoming Muslim, there were Jews in places like Bukhara and Christians as the Russians started settling in Central Asia.
6. Amir Timur is the hero of choice.

Photo: Nixy Jungle/Shutterstock
You can’t visit Tashkent without coming across a statue of Tamerlane mounted on a horse. After independence, Amir Timur was chosen as a historical figure that would help form the newly created Uzbek national identity. The conqueror’s patronage of the arts and sciences is greatly emphasized. Making Samarkand the capital of his empire, legend says he ordered the best architects and builders to be brought in from around his conquered lands to construct the city’s new buildings. The city of Shakhrisabz is famous mostly for being the ruler’s hometown and where Tamerlane ordered the construction of Oqsaroy, a monumental palace, in 1380.
7. The USSR lingers on.

Photo: Polina LVT/Shutterstock
Even as Uzbekistan does its utmost to shake the USSR off, it’s possible to whiff a kind of nostalgia for those times. You can catch Soviet trinkets or tableware at flea markets, people’s homes, and the most vogue of cafes alike. If you are into Brutalist or just plain concrete buildings, there is great architecture to see in Tashkent. The State Museum of History, formerly the Lenin Museum, and the Druzby Narodov (Friendship of Nations) Palace are prime examples. If you are walking along Navoi, Shota Rostaveli, or Oqqorgon (formerly Novomoskovskaya) street, keep an eye out for the Stalin-era, four- to five-story buildings with intricate facade decorations. Many of the buildings incorporate Central Asian decorative traditions — patterns, mosaics, and ganch carvings.
8. Uzbeks love to buy local, and you should take a piece of the country home with you.

Photo: Iryna Hromotska/Shutterstock
Today’s “handmade” boom is unprecedented in the country’s modern history. In the USSR, artisans were not allowed to practice their art privately, only at specialized workshops. On a broader scale, traditional crafts were not encouraged. This lead to a decline in folk art. It’s only really in the last 15 years that Uzbekistan has experienced a true renaissance in ethnic-inspired fashion and crafts, such as silk-making, embroidery, pottery, woodcarving, and so on. Uzbek people often show a great deal of appreciation for tradition and have found endless ways to remix it with modern practices. One of the popular local brands that has been doing this for years is Kanishka. Not only do goods made in Uzbekistan have more cultural flair, but they are also cheaper. The clean-cut, genuine leather goods at The Black Quail stores are a steal for the quality. As their slogan “Born in Uzbekistan” suggests, most of their leather is sourced inside the country, as well as designed and turned into wallets, purses, satchels, accessories, and more. 

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Best LGBTQ-friendly US small towns

We’ve won marriage equality. Pete Buttigieg, an openly gay man, is running for President. Drag queens have gone mainstream on network TV with their leader, RuPaul Charles, shouting, “If you can’t love yourself, how in hell you gonna love somebody else?” The LGBTQ+ population in the US has come a long way since the first brick was thrown at Stonewall 50 years ago. Still, outside the vibrant queer communities created in places like New York, San Francisco, and Chicago, it feels like we’ve got a long way to go. Can I get an Amen?
The Beyond I Do campaign, an organization dedicated to raising awareness for the rights of LGBTQ Americans, notes that in 28 of the 50 states, people can be lawfully fired from their job, denied access to medical care, or kicked out of their home based on “who they are or who they love.” Not all places are founded on the ideals of equality, and as an LGBTQ+ traveler, it can be uncomfortable feeling like a queer outsider in a close-minded town.
Fortunately, big cities aren’t the only vacation spots where you can walk down Main Street without worry. These towns are either top-tier queer destinations or market LGBTQ-specific travel opportunities throughout the year. Organized by general geographic location from the East to West Coast, here are the 10 best LGBTQ-friendly small towns in the US.
1. Provincetown, Massachusetts

Photo: Micha Weber/Shutterstock
It’s quaint, like Leave it to Beaver on vacation but edgier, because Theodore’s daddy is probably twirling in leather at the Boatslip Resort’s 5:00 PM Tea Dance, and here, “beaver” carries a much different meaning. This is Provincetown — the US’s gay summer capital on the tip of Cape Cod.
Protected on the Cape’s bayside by miles of bikeable dunes and scrubby forests, Provincetown (or P-town, as it’s commonly known) has long been a safe harbor for queer US travelers seeking refuge. Less than 3,000 people call P-town their year-round home, but in summer, the population swells to over 60,000. The town’s walkable main drag, Commercial Street, is chockablock with art galleries, clothing stores, restaurants, and live performance venues. Herring Cove Beach is the most popular outdoor hang, with a lesbian section about a quarter-mile south of the main entrance and the gay section another quarter-mile down from there. The town hosts several themed weeks throughout the summer, including July 4th, Carnival, Girl Splash, and Bear Week. Be sure to check the dates of each week, as the type of people you’ll encounter around town will vary drastically.
You can take the Bay State Cruise Company ferry from Boston (1.5 hours), arrive via bus, or rent a car and drive along the Cape’s scenic thoroughfare.
2. Fire Island, New York

Photo: Nancy Brennan/Shutterstock
Fire Island’s meandering sand dunes, maritime forests, and modernist homes are at the mercy of the mighty Atlantic. It’s a strange place for a safe haven, but that’s what makes this exposed sandbar so enticing. It’s seemingly impossible, and yet, here is a community built on the backs of gay and lesbian crusaders since the 1940s that’s been able to weather any storm.
Cherry Grove and The Pines make up the island’s two LGBTQ+ enclaves. The Pines caters to a rowdier, mostly male crowd. The majority of the midday and late-night revelry happens in the Pavilion, located next to the ferry dock. Cherry Grove is the more lesbian-centric and artsy of the two communities. You can travel between The Pines and Cherry Grove by walking through the infamous wooded Meat Rack or by water taxi, as there are no cars on this part of the island. Regardless of where you stay, you can party hard until sunrise, keep it mellow on miles of sandy beach, or find a favorable balance between the two.
Unless you’re renting a house with a group, people usually stay in a single room within one of the island’s many weathered-pine properties. Food on the island is pricey, and you shouldn’t be surprised to see people lugging their own food-filled coolers on the ferry. Popular events that happen in summer include the drag-queen-led Invasion of the Pines on July 4th, the circuit queen-filled Pines Party, and the theater-queen beloved Fire Island Dance Festival that benefits Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS. The island is mostly desolate during winter, with a tiny year-round population of 290.
To get here, take the Long Island Railroad from Penn Station to Sayville. Hop in a taxi at Sayville and head to the Sayville Ferry Service terminal. From there, the ferry will take you to The Pines. You can also drive and park at the ferry.
3. Ogunquit, Maine

Photo: Keith J Finks/Shutterstock
Ogunquit was a quiet fishing village until 100 years ago when it was colonized by artists drawn to the sweeping white-sand shores, gentle waters, and idyllic rocky coves. Though it may only occupy four-square miles of Maine’s rugged coastline, Ogunquit has an abundance of locally owned restaurants, gift shops, inns, and a thriving arts community.
The most notable institutions in town are the Ogunquit Museum of American Art, which pays homage to contemporary artists from the United States, and the Ogunquit Playhouse, ostensibly one of the greatest surviving summer stock theaters in the US. The theater, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, produces plays and musicals between May and October featuring Broadway-caliber performances from New York’s finest stage actors. For those looking to imbibe, Front Porch is the go-to piano bar. MaineStreet is the spot to catch drag shows and dance music.
A 90-minute drive north of Boston and less than an hour from Portland, this beach town escape is an easy one to get to. It’s also significantly cheaper than its southern sister on the sea, Provincetown, and can be an excellent alternative for LGBTQ folks looking for an affordable summer weekend on New England’s breezy shoreline.
4. New Hope, Pennsylvania

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Tucked along the West Bank of the Delaware River, this 1.4-square-mile town became a popular city reprieve for some of the most established composers and playwrights of the 1930s, ‘40s, and ‘50s, including Oscar Hammerstein and Moss Hart. The Bucks County Playhouse, started in 1939, was once famous as a pre-Broadway tryout for new shows and premiered prolific works like Neil Simon’s Barefoot in the Park. By the 1950s, the lesbian and gay community caught on, and New Hope’s rolling hills and nearby farmlands became a queer urbanite escape. The Playhouse re-established itself as one of the country’s preeminent regional theaters in 2012, and as a result, the entire town has found itself back in the LGBTQ+ travel cannon as a worthy weekend visit. The town’s annual Pride festival takes place in mid-May.
The area has a long history as a hideout for more than queer folk in search of escape. It’s where George Washington camped the night before crossing the Delaware River and where Aaron Burr found a week-long refuge after killing Alexander Hamilton. A natural halfway point between Philadelphia and New York City, the town was integral to transportation in the 18th and 19th centuries, and vestiges of the town’s historical past can be seen in the architectural styling of sturdy brick homes lining Ferry and Main Streets. The most famous of these is Parry Mansion, built circa 1784, which offers tours from May to September.
New Hope is only an hour’s drive north of Philadelphia and 90 minutes from New York City. If you’re traveling from Philly, it’s also possible to ride the SEPTA Regional Train to nearby Doylestown and take a 20-minute taxi ride the remaining 11 miles.
5. Asbury Park, New Jersey

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Asbury Park wasn’t the Jersey Shore’s most inviting piece of real estate in the early 2000s, but in 2002, a group of gay men who were revitalizing the town’s iconic Victorian properties started throwing the Sandblast Party — a small beachfront shindig encouraging their city friends to come and enjoy the Jersey sun. Today, the Sandblast Party is a three-day extravaganza that welcomes around 5,000 LGBTQ+ fun-seekers every July.
Even though the population is just under 16,000, the beachfront boardwalk and locally owned stores make this quirky 1.6-square-mile summer retreat feel quaint. You can spend a weekend shopping for clothes, art, and antiques along Cookman Street, checking out city-sanctioned murals and carnival-style food options near Ocean Avenue or catching rays on the beach (the gay section is near the 5th Avenue entrance). The town also hosts Jersey’s annual Pride festival, which takes place in early June.
Asbury Park makes a sensible day trip for folks traveling from New York. You can take the New Jersey Transit line to Long Branch, make one transfer, and continue to the desired destination. Driving from Philadelphia or New York is equally accessible. For those staying longer, the Empress Hotel is a gay-friendly accommodation that’s within a stone’s throw of the beach and next door to a gay nightclub, Paradise.
6. Rehoboth Beach, Delaware

Photo: Ritu Manoj Jethani/Shutterstock
Approximately 120 miles east of Washington DC, this community is commonly referred to as the Nation’s Summer Capital because of its proximity to Pennsylvania Avenue, but it’s equally well known as the Mid-Atlantic’s queer summer haven. In summer months it attracts quite a crowd — the town’s year-round population is only 1,500 but grows to nearly 25,000 between Memorial and Labor Day.
Rehoboth Beach has been a refuge for gay folks since legends like Tallulah Bankhead visited in the 1940s, but it really blossomed after the formation of CAMP — (Creating A More Positive) Rehoboth — in 1991. This LGBTQ+ community center helped foster the opening of new gay-owned and -operated businesses around the town’s scenic boardwalk. Rehoboth prides itself for being a destination for both straight and LGBTQ+ vacationers, but Baltimore Avenue, from Beach to Second Street, is where rainbows reign supreme. Still, the best place to hang is on the Atlantic-facing shoreline near Poodle Beach (for men) and North Shore Beach (for women). The boardwalk, renowned for its retro-kitsch beach shops, is also worth a visit.
Rehoboth is best accessed by car. It’s a nearly three-hour drive from Washington DC and two-and-a-half hours from Philadelphia. Guesthouses, B&Bs, and vacation rentals are the best way to get the most out of your stay in this coastal Delaware town.
7. Eureka Springs, Arkansas

Photo: Sue Stokes/Shutterstock
Don’t let the 66-foot statue of Jesus chillin’ atop the rolling green mountains of Eureka Springs fool you. This surprising blue bubble in the heart of a red state is still queerer than Christmas.
The statue, remnants of a now-defunct theatrical venue that performed The Great Passion Play beginning in the 1960s, certainly has a beautiful view, though. Eureka Springs lies within the Ozark mountains, and the Victorian homes that line its steep-staired streets share Jesus’s fantastic overlook of mountain peaks covered in pine, oak, hickory, and maple trees.
The town is popular with urbanites from Dallas to Kansas City who fill up downtown’s cozy B&Bs and historic hotels for Diversity Weekend. This tri-annual celebration takes place the first weekend of April, August, and November and features drag shows, dancing, and family-friendly entertainment. For those seeking a true Ozarkian escape, you can kayak the Buffalo River, spend a day swimming in Beaver Lake, or choose between day hikes to cascades and spring-fed watering holes (Lost Valley Trail and Hemmed-in Hollow Trail are favorites).
Eureka Springs is a six-hour drive from Texas, five hours from Memphis, and a three-and-a-half-hour straight shot from Kansas City, MO. No matter where you come from, your drive will be topsy-turvy once you hit the Ozark Mountains. As the local Gay Business Guild likes to say, “Not even our streets are straight!”
8. Saugatuck & Douglas, Michigan

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In 1910, the Art Institute of Chicago began a summer artists’ residency in Saugatuck called Ox-Bow. The program attracted creatives from the big city to the white-sand dunes and pine tree forests of Lake Michigan, and the gay community was soon to follow. Ox-Bow is still in operation today, but the queer population is now what makes this freshwater Elysium come alive from May to September. It’s no wonder Saugatuck and the neighboring town of Douglas are collectively known as the “Provincetown of the Midwest.”
The arts continue to play a pivotal role in the area’s allure. Galleries line both Water and Butler Streets in Saugatuck’s tiny downtown, Mason Street Warehouse produces musicals featuring talent from both New York and Chicago, and the quirky boutiques owned by LGBTQ+ locals provide shoppers with one-of-a-kind, artsy-fartsy fare.
It’s the great outdoors, however, that make Saugatuck shine. Oval Beach, an oft-lauded sandy expanse between Lake Michigan and the Kalamazoo River, looks out onto fresh cobalt waters. Gays and lesbians tend to congregate around the northern section of the beach, though you’re welcome to layout wherever you like; most people in Saugatuck are part of the family you choose.
The Dunes, the area’s go-to gay resort, offers hotel rooms, one and two-bedroom cottages, and throws a plethora of pool parties in summer. A cheaper but no less lovely time to visit is autumn. You can rent a boat or choose from several hikes to view the arboreal art show along Lake Michigan’s eastern coast. Saugatuck is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Chicago and nearly three hours from Detroit.
9. Moab, Utah

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Canyons of rusted red rock rise from the Colorado River as it cuts through Utah’s eastern boundary near Moab. This geologically dramatic area, home to both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, has long been lauded as a prime destination for outdoor enthusiasts looking to hike, bike, kayak, and climb. It only recently became a notable vacation spot for the queer community.
Conservative Utah hasn’t always had the best track record when it comes to diversity, but when Moab began hosting an annual Pride parade in 2011, it garnered national recognition for its efforts at promoting equality in small-town America. Gay Adventure Week, a Moab-based organization that leads guided excursions through the nearby parks, has also helped bring the area into the gay travel zeitgeist.
You shouldn’t expect much in terms of nightlife when visiting Moab — people visit the remote town to get off both the grid and Grindr. The sandstone arches, roaring river, and trails winding around the area’s sedimentary monuments are ideal for visiting with a lover or group of friends. Moab is a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Salt Lake City (another surprising must-visit urban area for LGBTQ+ folks) and five-and-a-half hours from Denver.
10. Guerneville, California

Photo: Kara Jade Quan-Montgomery/Shutterstock
Guerneville, an uber-queer hamlet in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, has been an LGBTQ+ destination for over 40 years. The area was a popular weekend getaway for straight San Franciscans from the late 19th to the mid-20th century but fell out of favor in the 1960s after extensive flooding. In the ‘70s, gay folks from the Bay Area began to clean up the town, and several prominent queer-owned resorts popped up by the end of the decade. Today, the area is favored by a diverse mix of off-beat hippies, adventurous foodies, and artsy urbanites.
Popular times to visit are Lazy Bear Weekend in early August, Women’s Weekend in mid-September, and a Gay Wine Weekend earlier in the summer season. Guerneville’s Pride festival takes place every June. Gay weekends aside, visiting Sonoma County’s local vineyards makes for a worthy trip, as does hiking, canoeing, and swimming around Guerneville’s redwood forests. The Highlands Resort, a “straight-friendly” LGBTQ lodge close to the center of town, is a popular place to stay (be sure to visit the clothing-optional pool), and the Rainbow Cattle Company, a gay bar, has been a favorite watering hole since 1979. There are some adorable glamping options at AutoCamp and quaint home rentals on Airbnb. If you’re looking to rough it for cheap, you can do that, too.
The Russian River Valley is a 90-minute drive from San Francisco through the Bay Area’s rolling mountains and coastal woodlands and a seven-hour drive from Los Angeles. 

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Most colorful places in Kiev

If the mere mention of Ukraine conjures up images of dreary winters, nuclear disasters, and drab Soviet housing, you’re in for a surprise. Kiev, the capital of the nation, may have its share of bad weather and bleak architecture, but vivid colors are also a significant part of the city. From flashy new neighborhoods to gilded old churches, these seven spots are more rainbow than rain.
1. Vozdvyzhenka

Photo: Kristi Blokhin/Shutterstock
In the early 2000s, this old craftsmen’s neighborhood was rebuilt in faux baroque style in hopes of becoming a residential area for the rich. But the attempt to copy historic buildings sparked nothing but mockery and spite in Kievans. And while the architecture is not to everyone’s taste, it sure makes for a colorful sight. Pastel green, blue, and orange mansions line up along cobbled streets, and their tiled rooftops look especially good from above. If you go up Zamkova Hora, a hill right next to Vozdvyzhenka, you’ll get a perfect view of the fancy quarter.
2. Comfort Town

Photo: Alina Filatova/Shutterstock
On the eastern bank on the Dnipro river, an area chock-full of Soviet high-rises, Comfort Town stands right out. This residential complex comes with Lego-like houses in rainbow colors and couldn’t be more different from the industrial grime around it. Comfort Town is so bright and cheery that it’s even been featured on Instagram’s Instagram.
3. The Landscape Alley

Photo: Kamilalala/Shutterstock
Local residents fought off illegal construction on the Landscape Alley and chipped in to turn it into a children’s park, designed by a Kiev sculptor. Now the alley is a winding path with views of Dnipro on one side and cartoon-inspired sculptures and mosaics on the other. There’s a bright red bench in the mouth of a green bunny; an azure bas-relief of a grinning cat; and peeing statues painted blue, red, green, and yellow. Landscapes may be scarce here, but colors are aplenty.
4. The murals

Photo: Angelo Zinna
For the past five years, a volunteer foundation has been inviting artists to paint murals on Kiev’s walls as a way to popularize art and culture. Pop art patterns and dreamy cartoons are appearing around the city, splashing some color onto its grayish-brown Soviet housing. And while many of the murals are way out in the outskirts, the central neighborhoods like Zoloti Vorota and Podil have plenty of eye candy, too. Check out the vita sine litteris mors est (“life without science is death”) on Building 2 of the Kyiv-Mohyla Academy, the vivid Anna Rizatdinova mural on Striletska street, or pick your own favorites on the Kyivmural website.
5. St. Andrew’s Church and the Alley of Artists

Photo: Oleg Totskyi/Shutterstock
Ornate churches are Kiev’s trademark, but few are as delicate as St. Andrew’s Church. Its dark green domes adorned with gold are seen from far away, and the mint-and-white facade makes the sight even prettier. Below the church, down the hill, is the Alley of Artists — a small marketplace for local painters. Don’t expect to see the next Monet there, but do expect lots and lots of bright hues.
6. Taras Shevchenko Park and University

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Named after Ukraine’s national poet, Taras Shevchenko Park is one of the best-kept parks in the city. Even after the summer heat — another surprise awaiting you in Kiev — has scorched most of the greenery, the park stays lush. And its flowerbeds burst with red, pink, and yellow throughout the warm season. No magic involved here — just a good system of sprinklers.
As if all that natural vibrancy wasn’t enough, the namesake University across the street glows with crimson red. Although the 19th-century building wasn’t meant to be colorful, a mishap with the paint made it red instead of brown. But Kiev has since embraced the unusual building and started amplifying its otherness with red light during the night.
7. The Singing Fountains on Maidan Nezalezhnosti

Photo: Kobby Dagan/Shutterstock
If you want to check out Maidan Nezalezhnosti, the main square in Kiev, plan to do that after dark. From late April to late September, massive fountains light up the square with neon colors at night. Light, color, water, and classical music blend together in a mesmerizing mix, so there’s no better ending for a colorful day in Kiev.
But these aren’t the only singing fountains in the city. If you happen to be in the Podil neighborhood, check out the ones on Poshtova Square, and should you stray from the residential Rusanivka, there’s a stunning fountain complex on the Rusanivsky Channel. 

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Southwest $49 flights in September

If you’ve been in denial about the end of summer by putting off your fall trip planning, it’s time to stop procrastinating. Southwest is running a sale until September 12, with flights as cheap as $49 one way. Fares are valid for travel between September 24 and March 4, 2020, and tickets must be purchased at least 21 days in advance, so if you’re looking for a late September getaway, you’d better hustle.
Many major US cities are included in the sale, though not all of them are eligible for the $49 fare. Here are some of the best deals available right now:
Baltimore to Boston for $49
Atlanta to Nashville for $49
San Jose to Seattle for $49
Reno to San Jose for $49
Raleigh to Tampa for $49
Boston to Nashville for $59
Cincinnati to Chicago for $59
Washington, DC to Providence for $59
Spokane to Boise for $59
Unlike other airline sales, Southwest does allow checked baggage with these fares, which can be a huge money saver. Note that tickets are not expected to disappear overnight — but since you only have until September 12 to buy, it’s probably best not to drag your feet. 

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September 4, 2019
Innovations in Cognac, France

You don’t appreciate modern automobile shocks until they’re not there. While bumping through French vineyards in mid-January in a 1960s Peugeot D4 van, the shocks were not there, and neither were the seats. Hay bales cushioned the ride as cold air hit my face and chilled my hands through leather gloves. A box of Bourgoin Cognac bounced along with me as its producer, Frédéric Bourgoin, drove to a lookout point over the vineyards that’ve been in his family for nearly 100 years.
An Instagram-friendly vintage van and a rustic vineyard tour isn’t the side of Cognac that Americans are most familiar with — that side is generally associated with money, fine dining, and grandparents.
While Cognac as a whole leans on its long history and reputation, there are also upstart brands and innovators in legacy companies keeping Cognac fresh and exciting. If you pay any attention to what’s going on with France’s most famous spirit or, better yet, visit Cognac for yourself, you’ll find the upstarts and innovators are turning Cognac into a destination, not just a digestif.
Producers embrace global influence, buck tradition

Photo: Cognac Frapin
Cognac (the spirit) is distilled in the Cognac region in western France from a wine made with grapes in the same region. There are some 5,000 vineyard owners, 4,600 Cognac producers who both grow the grapes and distill the wines, and 400 who sell Cognac under a custom label, according to the Encyclopedia of Cognac. Of those 400, four make 80 percent of all the Cognac sold: Martell, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier, and Hennessy, which itself makes around 40 percent of the Cognac in the world.
Cognac’s reputation is largely built off of the work of these major brands. There is a new wave of Cognac producers who are catching attention, however, and the reason has more to do with innovation than with tradition.
At the Bourgoin distillery between the towns of Cognac and Angoulême, a rack of 10-liter barrels line a tasting room wall. Geographical maps in the room show variations — and similarities — of the soil types in the six Cognac growing regions: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. A sign by the entrance reads, “Save whisky, drink Bourgoin Cognac.”
The sign is telling. Bourgoin is making Cognac for whiskey drinkers because Cognac has never been for the French, Bourgoin explains. Some 98 percent of Cognac is exported, the vast majority of which goes to the US and China. The French, on the other hand, drink imported whiskey.

Photo: Bourgoin Cognac/Facebook
“In (French) minds, Cognac is aggressive,” Bourgoin says. His Cognacs have no added color or sugar and instead are tempered using aging processes like finishing the spirit in those 10-liter barrels. The process is similar to what’s done in Scotland and the US, and Bourgoin says it makes a smoother spirit that whiskey drinkers can appreciate.
He borrows another Scotch whisky technique as well: single barrel. One producer told me Cognac isn’t Cognac until it’s blended, yet Bourgoin draws from single vineyard plots and single barrels. Bourgoin is far from traditional in nearly every sense and finds there’s a benefit to deviating from the norm.
He’s not trying to hide anything or expedite the long process of producing Cognac — quite the opposite. Bourgoin is hyper-transparent about his methods. A short list of the details listed on the bottle label: the GPS coordinates of the plot of land the grapes came from, the soil type of that plot, amount of sulfites added (zero), the size of the still used, the barrel type, and the type of yeast.
While Bourgoin’s spirits feel different than traditional Cognacs, pulling techniques from around the world is actually the most traditional thing a Cognac producer can do. The Dutch brought distilling to Cognac, and the signature grape used in Cognac, ugni blanc, comes from Italy. Some of the most successful Cognac houses were started by English (Martell) and Irish (Hennessy) businessmen, and the Queen of England has an official royal Cognac supplier (Hine) to this day. French twists on these global influences have kept Cognac fresh.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
At Cognac Park, general director Jérôme Tessendier makes Cognac to “give the best representation of the terroir,” he says. That means making single vineyard, single cru, and some single cask Cognacs.
For the past couple years, Cognac Park has focused on barrel finishing, which is putting an aged spirit into a different barrel for a short time to add additional flavor notes. The practice was, until recently, controversial among Cognac producers and purists. Now it’s widely embraced.
Bache-Gabrielsen was the first to use an American oak barrel that previously held bourbon, and Courviosier, the only Cognac brand to have company members go to the forest to hand select the wood for its barrels, was the first major company to experiment with cask finishing with the Master’s Cask Collection of sherry-barrel finished Cognac.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
None, however, are experimenting like Cognac Park is. Like Bourgoin, Tessendier recognized the market appreciation for whiskey and saw an opportunity. He purchased rare mizunara casks from Japan made with the same wood that popular Japanese whiskies are aged in and then filled them with four-year-old Cognac.
“This finishing has to bring something special,” Tessendier says. “Cognac is in a premium category, so we have to use something to keep it in this premium category.”
While the new barrel types used varies by company, the goal is the same.
“We think it will give the opportunity to galvanize the market of Cognac,” says cellar master Patrice Piveteau of Cognac Frapin, “to increase its image and maybe to attract people that are not used to drinking Cognac.”
Despite the wide embrace, barrel finishing isn’t universally accepted among producers. The differences in opinion is part of what makes the practice interesting, though, as the definition of what it means to be a Cognac shifts.
“Everyone has their own view and philosophy,” Tessendier says. “The worst thing is to not have a view.”
The history remains

Photo: Cognac Frapin
Cognac has always had tension between innovation and history. While the new stuff is fun, producers store glass jugs called demijohns containing 50-, 70-, and even 100-plus-year-old Cognacs in locked cellar rooms called paradis.
The first known bill of sale that guaranteed a brandy from the port of Cognac dates back to 1617, according to the Encyclopedia of Cognac. At the start, merchants would buy up brandy from small farm distilleries and create blends — a practice that defined Cognac for centuries.
Cognac has gone through its fair share of ups and downs since that first sale. It was exceedingly popular among high society drinkers in London, though back-and-forth politics between England and France often complicated trade. In the US in the late 1800s, Cognac was the base for many of the classic cocktails created before Prohibition, like the Sidecar and Stinger.
The regional product’s popularity abroad led to counterfeits. The Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) started in 1946 to protect the appellation, as well as assist with research and development, sustainability measures, and marketing. It also continues to set the guidelines for what can legally be called a Cognac and what can’t.
Thanks in part to the BNIC, Cognac quality has remained consistent over time even as vineyard sizes have shrunk by a third in the last 50 years, and the number of individual properties has gone from 32,000 in 1962 to 4,500 in 2016.
“People in the Charentais have a reputation for thinking twice,” the Encyclopedia of Cognac explains, “but once their minds are made up, it may as well be set in stone.”
The BNIC has allowed for growth in the category. It has to because, of course, not all change is voluntary. Climate change is moving harvest times, raising the alcohol in the initial wines, and speeding up the wine degradation process before it’s distilled, Marie-Emmanuelle Febvret, the communications manager at Hine, tells me. “It’s a big problem for us,” Febvret says. “We have to figure out what we’re going to do in 50 years.”
Bourgoin has seen the impact of climate change in his vineyards, as well.
“Today maybe we will change again because of global warming,” he says. “The harvests are down one month closer to summer than before. It’s not good for us.”
The city of Cognac, where modernity wins out

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Cognac (the town) is in the middle of a major modernization movement. What was once a working town where the only attractions were major Cognac houses is now one of the best places for a spirited trip to France.
Refurbished chateaux like Château Pellisson offer the castle life, while the upscale hotel François Premier is in the center of town. Hôtel Chais Monnet is the newest offering in Cognac and has 92 rooms, a spa, conference rooms, restaurants, and a bar. The town has embraced Cognac cocktails, and bars like Bar Louise and Chais Monnet’s 1838 are showing guests a brandy snifter is far from the only way to enjoy a pour.
“Cocktails give the possibility to show the changeability of Cognac, its richness,” Piveteau says, referencing Frapin’s cocktail-specific bottlings like Frapin 1270. “It enables us to target more consumers by discovering another way of consumption.”
One of Cognac’s biggest embrace of change is that it’s not trying to solely be an export product anymore. The city is investing in tourism with attractions like the Musée des Arts du Cognac, and major brands are heavily investing in new facilities, as well. The region attracts 200,000 people a day and brings in 20 million euros a year, according to the Encyclopedia of Cognac.
Another major shift is that Cognac isn’t just about Cognac anymore. The town has embraced the name “Spirits Valley” to reflect everything else made in the region. Vodka brands like Ciroc and Grey Goose are made in Cognac, as well as smaller craft spirits. In the end, it all comes back to the region’s signature spirit, however. The Merlet family, which had vineyards dating back to the 1850s, stopped making Cognac during a recession and turned to cassis and the liqueur Hpnotiq. Once the family built up enough capital, it once again turned its attention to producing Cognac.
Still, other spirits add value to the region, Tessendier says, because drinkers are less committed to specific brands than they were in the past.
“Frankly, it’s exciting,” Tessendier says. “More exciting than what my dad was doing.”
When Bourgoin’s van came to a stop on that brisk January day, he helped us out of the hay and into his vineyards. We walked to a windswept stone lookout to see over the rows and rows of vines. Some were relatively recently planted; other plots had a long history. Generations of Bourgoin have made Cognac on their land for the bigger producers. Frédéric is simply taking those traditions and skills learned to create something new.
Cognac’s global perspective has made the region’s name shorthand for quality brandy around the world. Traditions have helped, but so has evolution. Standing with Bourgoin and tasting his Cognacs, it’s clear that both the spirit and the region are on the cusp of another transformation. This time, it’s a transformation that’s best experienced in Cognac itself. 

More like this: Why you should ditch Bordeaux for Cognac for a more spirited trip to France
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‘Friends’ couch pop-up denied

You might not have moved on from Friends, but the people of New York City’s West Village certainly have. Warner Bros. Television had been planning to close off the sidewalk at Bedford and Grove streets for a Friends photo op with the iconic orange couch from the Central Perk coffee shop. The sidewalk is right outside the building now famous as the exterior of the Friends apartment, but it’s also part of a real neighborhood, and the residents are clear: They don’t want thousands of tourists crowding their streets for a chance at a selfie on an ugly orange couch.
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the sitcom, Superfly, Warner Bros. Consumer Products, and Warner Bros. Television Group are organizing a Friends NYC pop-up experience — complete with set recreations, costumes, and props — in the heart of SoHo from September 7 to October 6. And for the locals, that’s already plenty to worry about — no need to block the sidewalk with a large piece of furniture. According to the Community Board’s resolution, the sidewalk is “incredibly narrow and cannot contain the throngs of people anticipated for this event.”
Residents at the building on Bedford and Grove streets claim to already have plenty of tourists hanging around their homes on regular days and don’t need to get any more attention.
Despite this setback, Warner Bros still plans to pursue the pop-up project. “We are hopeful we can still move forward with the permit,” said a spokesperson for the company, “and create a unique experience for fans of the series.” 

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Finland is best for wildlife travel

Wildlife enthusiasts looking for their next travel destination should head north this year. True Luxury Travel has just released its list of the world’s best destinations for wildlife travel, and the results include three Nordic countries in the top 10.
For each country examined, the Global Wildlife Index takes into account levels of environmental sustainability, as well as conservation efforts. This year, Finland has claimed the top spot on the index thanks to its high levels of environmental sustainability, diverse and unique wildlife, and amazing natural landscapes.
Given Finland’s impressive resume, its ranking is no surprise. 73.1 percent of the country is covered in forests, the nation is home to an impressive 267 wildlife species, and it has 39 national parks covering 3,819 square miles. Its neighbor, Sweden, came in second due to its focus on megafauna conservation, environmental sustainability, and maintaining of natural forests. If you can’t make it to Europe, however, you can just head over the Atlantic to Brazil or Canada, which ranked third and fourth, respectively. One of the best places in the world to see diverse animal species, Canada is home to over 6,666 wildlife species (almost three times more than the US). 

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The best shopping areas in Athens

If you love perusing local stores while you travel, Athens is a great place to do some quality shopping. It can be hard to know where to go and what to look for, though, so we’ve weeded out the ordinary and predictable shopping options to save you time and help you focus on the unique and eminent that Athens has to offer. The city is flush with unbeatable boutiques, malls, and street markets. Here’s a primer on what unique Athenian gifts to look for and where you need to shop in Athens to catch the best shopping vibes the city has to offer.
Souvenir ideas from Athens

Photo: francesco de marco/Shutterstock
Few cities are as steeped in history as Athens, and souvenir shopping is a prudent way to capture some of it. Whether it is a fashion item, Greek produce, or an ornament, there is a perfect gift for everyone. If you are a coffee lover, you have probably already tried the strong brew Greek coffee with the grounds in the bottom of the cup and the silky foam on the top. Buy a set of porcelain mini cups and a briki (the pot used for preparing Greek coffee) and impress your guests at home with a distinctive hot drink.
You may have come across komboloi during your stay in Greece. It is the amber or wood beads hung on a loop that men swing and flip rhythmically (and often loudly) against their palms to relieve stress or quit smoking. Even though komboloi has evolved from prayer beads and ropes, currently it has no religious connotations, and it is mostly used as a home decoration.
You don’t have to be over-invested in board games to appreciate tavli, Greece’s beloved board game. Tavli originates from Mesopotamia, and it’s similar to backgammon. It is made from the wood of cherry, oak, ebony, or olive trees. Speaking of olive trees, olive oil is renowned for its health benefits, and apart from its culinary uses, Greeks have established other ways to extract the goodness of this elixir. You can find olive oil beauty products such as soaps, creams, body lotions, and shampoos in Greece’s three biggest natural beauty stores: Apivita Experience Store in Kolonaki, Korres, and Mastiha Shop, or in selected pharmacies.

Photo: Alexandra Lande/Shutterstock
It is safe to say that much of your Athens holiday memories will be linked to food. So why not take some of the flavors with you and prolong your trip — at least mentally? Baklava is the most characteristic Greek dessert, made of layered filo pastry drenched in syrup and decorated with walnuts. If you feel that with the honey syrup you are putting your clothes at risk, you can opt for more solid choices such as mandolato (nougat), pasteli (honey and sesame seeds bar), elies (almonds covered with chocolate), loukoumi (Turkish delight), and halva (crumbly dessert made of tahini).
Last but not least, Greece produces several distilled spirits that are unique to the country. A bottle of ouzo (anise-flavored aperitif), Metaxa (brandy), mastiha (liquor), raki (aperitif made from fermented grapes), or Mavrodaphne (sweet wine) has the power to capture the spirit of the place and evoke memories of your trip. So maybe finish your souvenir shopping with some bottle-hunting? Cellier liquor store in Syntagma is a good beginning to the end.
Downtown shopping areas

Photo: Photo Oz/Shutterstock
Now that you know what to shop for, here are the downtown areas you’ll find the biggest concentration of stores. This list includes not only places like Plaka and Monastiraki, where you can find great gifts to take back home, but also the shopping areas for clothing and other items that Athenians like to frequent.
Ermou street — This pedestrian-only lane running from the Syntagma metro station all the way down to the Monastiraki metro station is Athens’ most popular shopping strip. On both sides of the wide road, you’ll spot the same international mid-range brands you see in other big cities, among them Zara, H&M, and American Eagle. Look instead for some Greek retail like Staff Jeans and Toi & Moi. When hunger hits, grab a traditional snack on the go from the scattered stands. Athenians’ all-time favorite is fresh-from-the-oven koulouri, a round bread sprinkled with sesame seeds.
Monastiraki — Every Sunday, this neighborhood hosts the biggest flea market in Athens where, if persistent and with an eye for detail, you can find treasured collectors’ items such as books, vinyl, antiques, and silverware. For the most part, the area of Monastiraki is pedestrian-only, and the shops are dedicated to souvenirs, footwear, leather bags and sandals, and beads for artisans who make jewelry.
Plaka — Athens’ quaint old town is the eye of souvenir shopping. Adrianou street is Plaka’s prime alley, loaded with boho-chic shops, bijouteries, and Greek memorabilia. Travelers flow up and down the narrow passages of Plaka all year round, and shopkeepers are always keen on starting conversations. They even tolerate moderate haggling. However, keep in mind that prices within Plaka are premium due to the touristy nature of the area. Forget-me-NΩt, which resembles a museum gift shop, and the Anamnesia concept store are hipper, updated versions of the typical souvenir shops.
Kolonaki — This posh neighborhood is a gilt-edged shopping haven for well-heeled Athenians and visitors. On P. Anagnostopoulou and Tsakalof streets, discerning travelers will find the high-end boutiques to their liking. In spite of the area’s opulence, gawkers are also welcomed, and no one expects you to look a specific way to let you in. Pedestrian-only Voukourestiou street is Kolonaki’s premier spot with every major brand from Gucci and Prada to Bulgari and Dior operating a swank store. Greece is renowned for handmade silver and gold jewelry, and besides legendary brands such as Cartier, local signature stores such as Lalaounis and Kessaris offer plenty of elegant baubles to admire.
Store hours — Chain stores are open Monday-Friday from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM and Saturday from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Most tourist shops in Monastiraki and Plaka are open every day until 9:00 PM or 10:00 PM during the summer months. Independent shops and boutiques close at 3:00 PM on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, and on Tuesday and Friday, shopkeepers take a siesta break between 3:00 PM and 5:00 PM. With a few exceptions, shops in Greece generally remain closed on Sundays.
The malls of Athens

Photo: Pit Stock/Shutterstock
For many years, Athens was scrambling to catch up with the storm of the malls trend. It caught up, since malls have now radically changed Athenians’ shopping behavior. The biggest malls — such as The Mall Athens, Golden Hall, and Avenue Mall — are in the suburban area of Marousi, and access is easy via Line 1 of the Athens Metro network. If you are in Athens only for a one-day stopover and looking to kill some time around the airport area, visit the Athens Designer Outlet in Spata where you can find big brands at up to 70 percent off.
Attica department store on Panepistimiou street is one of Athens’ landmarks. The 1930s, eight-floor building has received a big-money makeover to become the one-stop shop for downtown shopping. Attica’s shelves are well-stocked with women, men, kids, beauty, and homeware brands. Also, the department store offers alteration services, has a nail bar, a rooftop restaurant, and a relaxation room. If you want to take your shopping experience to the next level, ask for the VIP shopping assistance.
Athénée café, on the corner of Voukourestiou and Panepistimiou street, adjoins Attica, and together they make for the best-combined shopping and eating encounter in Athens. Athénée opened its doors in the late 1930s under the name Zonar’s — from its owner, a Greek chocolatier based in the US. Ever since then, prominent names such as Sofia Loren and Anthony Quinn have dined at it. Until today, Athénée remains loyal to its old glory and personality with an Art Deco style and an exquisite menu.
Mall hours — The malls are open Monday-Friday from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM, on Saturday from 9:00 AM or 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM, and closed on Sunday. 

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Disney Food & Wine Festival cheeses

Any food experience that puts cheese front and center is a must-try, so Disney World’s annual Food & Wine Festival is naturally at the top of our list. The festival, which started last week and runs through November 23, features a new food crawl called Emile’s Fromage Montage — in reference to the rat sidekick from Pixar’s Ratatouille — offering five different cheese dishes from around the world.
The dishes include warm Swiss raclette served on a plate of baby potatoes; Impossible Cottage Pie served with mozzarella; black pepper and cheese souffle; pasta gratin with ham, onions, and cheese; and Brazilian Pao de Queijo, which is basically cheese bread. In addition to sampling each cheese dish, guests can also commemorate the experience with stamps inside a complimentary Food & Wine Festival passport. As if you needed another excuse to try all five plates, whoever collects five stamps earns a free cheesecake at the Shimmering Sips Mimosa Bar.
If this isn’t enough cheese for you, there’s also an educational component to the festival. Guests are invited to take a variety of tasting seminars led by cheese experts. The International Cheese Connoisseur seminar, for example, features a professional fromager who “will explain the major aromas, textures and flavor levels of popular cheeses,” and attendees can “sample artisanal selections paired with complementary wines or craft beers while learning about the distinct nature of each featured region.”
You can browse the available seminars to decide which one is best suited to your cheese interests. 

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The post Disney’s Food & Wine Festival now features an epic cheese crawl around the world appeared first on Matador Network.
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